(Topic ID: 243320)

STTNG diode tie back sanity check please

By geet84

4 years ago


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  • 11 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by Pin_Guy
  • Topic is favorited by 5 Pinsiders

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#6 3 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

Anytime, just disconnect the original tie back on BOTH ends and you will be in good shape. If you deceide to keep it as a backup wire I do understand that too as the likelihood of the heavier gauge main power wire from J107-1 to the drop target breaking is fairly low.
Edit: if you have the wire connected in this manner and disconnect J107 to troubleshoot blowing fuses, you will send all the current for Sol 37-40 thru the tieback wire which would not be a good thing to do.

Sorry to rehash this. I just want to ensure I am correct. My motto is "If it ain't broke, don't fix it." But of course we all know that this wire will probably fail at some point and I have had this STTNG for 5 years and am working on all my pinballs this weekend.

At first I thought that adding a wire from J107-1 (or J108-1 if the connector is not used and I can simply create a 3 pin connector with just one wire) to J4-1 on the aux driver board but keep the original wire from the drop target to J4-1 would be good for insurance.

But based on what you wrote above and a year ago (post #3), is stating that I should NOT do this.

I assume the solution would be
* Create a 3 pin molex connector at J108 with a wire coming out of pin 1.
* Cut the violet/green wire at J4-1 with a few inches still connected to the existing connector.
* Use a lever nut to connect the wire from J4-1 to J108-1.

Would it be better to build a new molex connector for J4-1 and simply connect the wire from J108-1 to J4-1 without a lever nut? (If so, I would probably be using lever nuts to connect all the other wires that are already on J4 unless you say it is better to just solder them together.)

Is it sufficient to simply put electrical tape on the violet/green wire coming from the drop target to J4-1 that I will disconnect as described above so that the wire is going no where and electrically protected with the electrical tape? You say to disconnect at both ends. I guess I could. I assume that the thinnest wire is the wire that is going from the drop target to the aux driver board at J4-1?

Basically, I want to do the least amount as possible so that by fixing this, I don't introduce the problem that I have been ignoring and not wanting to fix for years because I am afraid of actually causing a problem.

EDIT:
I assume the best thing to do is
* cut the smaller Violet/green wire on the drop target wires that have three wires: two thick and one thinner.
* This thinner wire should be pulled through the wire strands back to the back box and connect to the aux driver board at J4-1.
* Can this thinner violet/green wire be the wire that is connected to J108-1 on the driver board? Is the gauge too small for the power going from J108-1 to J4-1?
Thanks
Michael

#8 3 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

1) Tiewrap your new J108 connection to the J107 connector so there is no way you can miss it.
2) Label the cable with a bright orange label so there is no way you can miss is.
3) Do both of the above!

Thank you @pin_guy.

I would use a lever nut and cut the violet/green wire going to J107-1 and add it there. But either way, thanks for the reminder NOT to ever forget to put J108 back in. I may just add a really big not in the back box to ensure it is connected and as you said tie wrap it to J107.

Thanks!

#10 3 years ago
Quoted from zaza:

I strongly recommend to wire it to J107-1, the way I original made this picture
If another technician is working on this machine and is not aware of this modification, a mistake is easy made.
SV

.

Thank. I will add a lever nut and connect to J107-1

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