(Topic ID: 69156)

STTNG blowing f105


By Deadpool66

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 14 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 years ago by Carl_694
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

#1 5 years ago

Just my luck as I'm showing the game it goes haywire and half the solenoids quit working. Checked F105 and its blown so I replaced it.

Here is the issue after replacing f105 game works fine for a bit start the holodeck mission it launches 3 balls half the borg ship lights up and then the fuse blows again.

Any help would be awesome and or if someone lives near by and wants to make some money. Need to get the game going soon.

#2 5 years ago
Quoted from Deadpool66:

Just my luck as I'm showing the game it goes haywire and half the solenoids quit working. Checked F105 and its blown so I replaced it.
Here is the issue after replacing f105 game works fine for a bit start the holodeck mission it launches 3 balls half the borg ship lights up and then the fuse blows again.
Any help would be awesome and or if someone lives near by and wants to make some money. Need to get the game going soon.

Does it only do this when you start the Holodeck mission ?

#3 5 years ago

F105 is responsible for coils 1-8. That's your left & right gun kickers, left & right gun poppers, left popper, plunger, knocker, and kickback. Most of the time a bad coil or drive transistor is what would cause that fuse to blow.

The simplest way to see which coil is causing the issue is to replace the fuse, turn on the machine and go into the solenoid test. Test each coil 1 - 8 with the door to the head open so you can see the F105 and see which coil makes it blow. From there you can test the coil and transistor with a meter or just replace both if you don't have one.

Those are all AE 23-800 coils. The associated drive transistors are all Tip36C on the driver board, numbers 64, 66, 68, 70, 76, 78, 80, 82. Get out your multi meter and go test those transistors. TURN OFF THE MACHINE TO TEST THESE. Put your meter to diode setting. Put the red lead on the big metal tab of the Tip36c and the black lead on each of the outside legs. You should get .4 to .6 volts on either leg. Put your black lead on the center leg now and you should get a 0 reading. Next put your black lead on the left leg and move your red lead to the center leg and again you should get .4 to .6 volts. Now keep the black lead on the left leg and move the red lead to the right leg and you should get .2 volts. If you get readings outside of those numbers, the transistor is bad and needs replacing.

Test the resistance of the 8 coils involved too. Put your meter on ohms setting and put the red on 1 lug and black on the other. You should get 5 - 15 ohms (some can go higher and lower). If you get under 3 ohms, that coil is a short and you need to replace it.

#4 5 years ago

No I tested it today and it didn't start acting up until the 3rd game. It starts acting wonky then the ship lights then the fuse blows.

#5 5 years ago

I will check the coils except Im out of fuses now!!!! To radio shack!

#6 5 years ago

Is the tie back wire on your drop target broken off?

#7 5 years ago

I checked around the drop target and don't see any broken wires.

Solenoid test reveals nothing fuse wont blow during test. I found a few hacks let me take a few pictures.

#8 5 years ago

I'm no expert but I had a similiar problem on my MB. Blowing fuses all the time on the flasher circuit.

Can you find the pin socket on your back box that is relating to this set. If you pull it out and then push it in lightly so you can just see the pins and it's not installed all the way, you should be able to see if there is a spark and on what pin it is when you turn it on. Then you look that pin number up in the manual and can trace back the fault.

On my machine is was a wire shorting on the playfield.

#9 5 years ago

You could bring it down here and I could work on it for a few months for you.

#10 5 years ago

if you can describe exactly what happens when you say it goes wonky or haywire, that would help. But if it just blows only when the Borg ship lights, I'd take the ship off and check the flashers and coil inside. Maybe a wire is off and shorting against something. Could put it in test mode and do the coil test and test only the Borg Kicker and also put it in flasher test and see if either of those cause the fuse to blow.

#11 5 years ago
Quoted from Deadpool66:

I will check the coils except Im out of fuses now!!!! To radio shack!

using a blown fuse, make a circuit breaker. Get a breaker with the same value, hot glue busted fuse to it, then solder to fuse block to make a breaker. (Stolen from Clay, and one of the handiest tools to have)

#12 5 years ago
Quoted from Big70:

if you can describe exactly what happens when you say it goes wonky or haywire, that would help. But if it just blows only when the Borg ship lights, I'd take the ship off and check the flashers and coil inside. Maybe a wire is off and shorting against something. Could put it in test mode and do the coil test and test only the Borg Kicker and also put it in flasher test and see if either of those cause the fuse to blow.

Its weird the back box fully lights up the left side of the borg ship light up and I hear a solenoid lockon. I think its the trough.

#13 5 years ago

Any know any techs that I can get I. Touch with?

#14 5 years ago

What kind of condition are your ribbon cables in? They can short internally if they are old. If they are not flexible and "soft," try replacing them. Can cause all sorts of odd problems.

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 64.99
$ 10.00
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
Gweem's Mods
$ 9.99

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside