i tested the opto switches on the diverter they are working as are the diverter solenoids. the game just cycles though balls and ejects them on the left ball return. and wont start
i tested the opto switches on the diverter they are working as are the diverter solenoids. the game just cycles though balls and ejects them on the left ball return. and wont start
The best thing you can do on a STTNG machine is remove all the balls from the machine and then verify ALL of the optos read closed in switch test. This check essentially verifies every IR transmitter and photo-transistor are operating properly in a single check. With all balls out of the machine, your switch matrix test will look like the image below with all bright green switches being closes. NOTE: light green switches will be either open or closed depending on the coin door and drop target switch positions.
My guess is that your subway diverter is out of adjustment and blocking balls from getting staged properly.
Could be a long shot, but when I got mine I had the same issue, and one of the subway diverter coils was fried. Go into test and make sure those coils are working.
Quoted from cubie:number 35 is not lite during switch test
This is the second opto for the Left VUK. While this can cause the game to kick out the ball staged under left lock, it will not cause the cycling you are seeing. Like bigdaddy07 and floyd1977 mentioned, this is going to be a ball pre-staging issue caused by malfunctioning diverters.
See this post: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/sttng-owners-club/page/37#post-3913557
after tinkering with the opto's it appeared that it was a bad photo transistor, i replaced it but it's still not working in the switch test, not sure what else it could be
I had the same problem and it turned out it was the dreaded 'tie back' issue. This might help
http://www.pinballrevolution.com/threads/13-sttng-tie-back-mod-best-way.3954/
Maurizio
i'm not having trouble with the diverter coils or the aux8 board i'm having issues with the opto switch on the photo transistor side i did check and the tie back wire is properly attached and it is a mod i'll consider doing if i have any issues with the aux8 power, i just don't think it will help in this situation, was a good read though
Check the voltage across the photo transistor, if should be roughly 12 volts when off and < 1 volt when on. If you don't see a change by blocking the beam, move another transmitter to that spot; if it works replace the transmitter, if not, start investigating your wiring back to the 16 opto board.
i'm not detecting a voltage across the working photo transistor, nor the one that's giving me trouble,i removed the corresponding led, I measured across the leads on the photo transistor. so then i tried using the chaise as a ground and blew what i think is all the opto switch board because all the boxes are gone
Quoted from cubie:12v is intact no blown fuses
Quoted from cubie:i'm not detecting a voltage across the working photo transistor, nor the one that's giving me trouble,
The only way this can happen is if one of the wires doesn't have continuity back to to the 16 Opto board, your +12VU is missing, or the measurement was not performed correctly.
There is no point checking these if you are missing your 12V, please verify the presence of 12V at TP1 of the PDB, if its missing replace F116.
Once you have verified 12V check to make sure the power LED on the 16 opto board is illuminated, if its not, you will need to fix that frst.
The following information will help you fix the switch 35 opto; however, please keep in mind that this one opto being out should not cause a ball cycling issues. What should happen is that the game would read the phantom ball (Under LL2) and attempt to remove it, the game would kick out the Locked ball (under LL1) and properly read the change for position 1 and see no change to position 2; at that point it should mark switch 35 as failed and allow the game to be playable.
pasted_image (resized).png pasted_image (resized).png
Below is what you should see when measuring voltage across the components.
Optical Emitter (resized).png Opto receiver (resized).png
Quoted from cubie:12v is intact no blown fuses
Quoted from cubie:the led on the opto board is off, the f116 fuse is fine
Well there is your first thing to fix. +12V powers this board from J5-12 (+12V) and J5-13 (Gnd) Once you have your power restored to the board, you can continue working on the opto issues.
it was a blown fuse i thought led 7 was on my mistake. i'm still unable to get a voltage reading from the optical receiver, i've been trying to get a reading from a working sensor, i remove the corresponding emitter before testing but i get no voltage i'm using a fluke 17b with it set on dc, i've even tried reversing the leads on the meter while taking a reading, there has to be something else to this because all the switches are functional(unable to get a reading from them) #35 isn't working, i wish i could ignore it but the game wont run in it's current state and i have no idea why
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