(Topic ID: 257662)

STTNG: A Refresh for Future Generations


By dmacy

3 months ago



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  • Latest reply 1 day ago by dmacy
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There are 151 posts in this topic. You are on page 3 of 4.
#101 45 days ago

As I mentioned earlier, my rotisserie was due for some tightening up and this big girl is amplifying it. So went with some new pipe to make a second one.

This time it’s all semi-gloss black as that’s what I had on hand. Someone asked me why the Two different blue colors on my original. Same story as it’s what we had at the house. It was some 92 Mercury Sable blue (my grandmothers old car) and 2005 Focus Sonic Blue (our old 200k mile beater).

I ended up tapping the bottom for 5/16-18 since we had some slider feet floating around. I have some casters I adapted to my other and they didn’t work so hot. Hopefully 2.0 will be better.

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#102 44 days ago

T-nut count bottom side:
(10) 6-32 used at return lanes
(23) 8-32

T-nut count top side:
(6) 8-32

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#103 44 days ago

Tested GI lighting and all is good. Tested the purple 2smd clear, frosted, and purple passion. I think the clear purples are the way to go at the lane change. Hard to tell the difference in the pics. The rest is the Comet sunlights.

First pic is clear purple
Second is frosted purple
Last is purple passion

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#104 44 days ago
Quoted from dmacy:

New PDI target decals are installed. The nice painted cannons unfortunately won’t work with the lasers.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Shipment incoming to modfather for doing his magic on on the cannons and Warbird. The bird of prey in picture isn’t going. It looks good.

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#105 43 days ago

Big thanks to turtle for his solder recommendations. Was having a lot of issues recently and has made my life much easier.

With that, almost all the soldering is done here. I chose to get almost all on the bottom side and solder everything short of the rear diverter, ball trough coil, and drop target assembly. These are hard to install when on the rotisserie (cannons aren’t on either but trying to save myself some weight lifting the playfield in!). Been visiting a chiro every other week for a year when I fell last year. Wanted to get the heavy lifting done before I see him Wednesday.

Put on a small amount of Supelube gel on the pivot assemblies. With the new playfield installed, it’s super smooth compared to how it was. It fits good without being too tight. It will still be a really tight fit with the mirror blades. I took them off and will likely stay off until the machine is fully vetted and maybe back at Neil’s place. The remaining mechs short of the cannons are installed. Ramps and top side parts still need installed.

Put on some decals for under the playfield and the new Mantis support rails are finally installed. Much heavier duty! And I have done nothing to clean up any wiring yet. Fixed a few broken and/or electrical tape “repairs” but that’s it.

I still need to order the correct diverter coil but waiting until I have a few more needed parts.

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#106 40 days ago

The ramps are all on. The rear diverter will need some adjustments due to the thicker ramps but nothing major. Mylar was put down at the ramp flaps.

It’s starting to look like a finished game now. The wireforms need cleaning/polished and why they’re not on yet.

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#107 37 days ago

Wireforms were cleaned, polished and installed. The playfield is mostly done. Apron and it’s wireform aren’t cleaned or ready but installed.

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#108 37 days ago

Some testing of the sling star post lights. Purple posts with cool white lighting from PL. Comet sunlight in other GI. Have to adjust sling switches better for alignment in the holes...
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#109 36 days ago

Those purple post lights are pretty bad ass. Looking good dmacy!

#110 35 days ago

Cleaning up some issues. Had to get the wireform intersection pieces correct. Needed to install Alpha Quadrant center ramp protector’s left side, and correct bulb cover for lock to green.
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#111 34 days ago

Top side is about done other than Modfather’s work on the ships. New coil for diverter is installed and some wiring clean up.

Some pics of the process.

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#112 34 days ago
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#113 30 days ago

The painted parts from modfather came and look great. Installed them and ran the wiring down for the Romulan ship soldering the connections vs alligator clips for the GI connection.

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#114 29 days ago

Buttoned up some odds and ends: Pop bumper switches adjusted, added the spot light, apron light, wiring clean up underside, and did another GI test. I believe everything is ready to fire up. Will be getting boards back this week to test.

The left flipper started spinning when it just started to get tight. No cranking hard; it just pulled through. This seems to happen frequently. Replaced the stud with a new one on hand and fine.

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#115 29 days ago

Underside minus 16 opto board. Cleaned up the lighted flipper button wiring and changed connector to use on the coin interface board.

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#116 29 days ago

Added some switch covers to Beta and Delta ramps to clean up the look. I also went with smaller washers for the wireform ramps.

And some playfield shots.

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#117 25 days ago

Friend was able to print me up this for the GI OCD. Boards should be here this weekend so can test. The knocker was rebuilt. I did put a new fuse decal on too. New ribbon cables will be installed.
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#118 25 days ago

Testing of some different colored LED’s. And a sunlight Comet strip added to trough area.

Pics show purple first, ice blue second, and sunlight last.

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#119 25 days ago

STTNG is one of the few games were GI in Cool White LEDs looks best. Most others I'd go warm white.....

#120 25 days ago

This thread is great, I am building a Sttng from parts. Very helpful

#121 25 days ago
Quoted from dmacy:

Pics show purple first, ice blue second, and sunlight last.

I'm kinda surprised your customer didn't opt for
my WingLEDs… given he went with the popcaps. That machine sure has a lot of purple.

#122 25 days ago
Quoted from dmacy:

Testing of some different colored LED’s. And a sunlight Comet strip added to trough area.
Pics show purple first, ice blue second, and sunlight last.

I like the sunlight the best. The purple just seems to make the game way too purple. The ice blue washes out the purple, but the sunlight seems to break up the purple and really compliment it.

But that's just my opinion and you know what they say about opinions......

#123 24 days ago

I'm preferring sunlight myself too but hard to get a good look with only GI and nothing else lit yet. We decided purple is a no go. I'm also a fan of cool whites but all this is personal taste.

Quoted from Zitt:

I'm kinda surprised your customer didn't opt for

my WingLEDs… given he went with the popcaps. That machine sure has a lot of purple.

They are awesome; never knew they existed either. You have really cool products!

#124 23 days ago

New 16 opto board with some new brackets. Original was checked and new cap so will be a spare.

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#125 20 days ago

Tonight we went live! Nothing dramatic at startup so got the Pinsound card firmware and the stock sound files. It sounds super clear just using these! Can’t wait to hear how it sounds with the new sound clips.

So the bad: GI looks good but have a handful of switches not working, no lower right flipper and no lamp matrix. So have my work cut out for me. Lamp matrix is an odd one and only had time to check the 114 fuse and TP8 LED kit which both are ok/lit.

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#126 20 days ago
Quoted from dmacy:

So the bad: GI looks good but have a handful of switches not working, no lower right flipper and no lamp matrix. So have my work cut out for me.

It's always something with these damn things!!

It look great, excellent work!

#127 19 days ago

Thanks to a second set of eyeballs to add some clarity, turtle gave me the plan of attack. I swapped PDB boards with my spare and created more issues with flashers sticking on but still no inserts lights. A wrong fuse that blew was giving me unnecessary headaches.

All is good with flashers (all working). Solenoids all working. Inserts & GI lighting...all working. Switches: spinner and the cannons (all four out) are the only ones not working. I had the RIFT, both left ramp entry and made not working. I missed the jumper between TIME and RIFT. After ohming it out it was clear there was no connection.

I haven’t checked the right flipper yet but closing in a test drive.

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#128 19 days ago

Your topic here is helping me build up this giant project

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#129 19 days ago
Quoted from lordloss:

Your topic here is helping me build up this giant project[quoted image]

Now that is an interesting project! How did you come across it?

#130 18 days ago


Quoted from dmacy:Thanks to a second set of eyeballs to add some clarity, turtle gave me the plan of attack. I swapped PDB boards with my spare and created more issues with flashers sticking on but still no inserts lights. A wrong fuse that blew was giving me unnecessary headaches.
All is good with flashers (all working). Solenoids all working. Inserts & GI lighting...all working. Switches: spinner and the cannons (all four out) are the only ones not working. I had the RIFT, both left ramp entry and made not working. I missed the jumper between TIME and RIFT. After ohming it out it was clear there was no connection.
I haven’t checked the right flipper yet but closing in a test drive.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Anytime dmacy. And I'm in for the test drive!!!

Quoted from lordloss:

Your topic here is helping me build up this giant project[quoted image]

lordloss which project the Centaur/Addams/eightball or the STNNG. Just kidding and good luck with your project(s). Looks like you are going to busy.

#131 18 days ago
Quoted from lordloss:

giant projec

Whew. God speed.

#132 18 days ago

Success! Spinner was wired wrong and had a diode on it (shouldn’t be as it’s dedicated switch). All cannon switches are working; note you need to run those in their respective tests. They won’t show up in the normal switch tests.

I had bypassed the LED OCD board while troubleshooting and have that hooked back up. Ran all lamp tests to be sure I hadn’t missed anything and all working there.

Lower right flipper not working in test by flipper button in test but does in diagnostic test: another easy fix as I reseated the ribbon cable and back in action. I checked all the transistors and fuses before and they were fine so it had me slightly puzzled. These are the issues when you take everything fully apart...

I have an opto or two not working on one of the ball popper mechs which is keeping me from a first game. With 16 and a lot of hack repairs on this harness, I kinda expected it.

Hoping to have it ready this weekend for some actual gameplay video!

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#133 18 days ago

Wish I had a quarter of your knowledge. Fantastic job!

#134 18 days ago

hey... wait a minute... there's a change near Time Rift.
There's more Warm White-ness there.
Looks like it arrived safely; which is good.

#135 18 days ago
Quoted from Turtle:

Anytime dmacy. And I'm in for the test drive!!!

lordloss which project the Centaur/Addams/eightball or the STNNG. Just kidding and good luck with your project(s). Looks like you are going to busy.

The Sttng started out as a set of light boards, major assemblies, all ramps, balls guides, no playfield or cabinet, and some habitrails. I've sourced all the needed parts from all over the world. Total cost so far is about $1200. Building it back up.

Centaur playfield was mostly complete and intact, needed a cabinet and bg. Total cost so far on that one is about $200.

#136 18 days ago
Quoted from Zitt:

hey... wait a minute... there's a change near Time Rift.
There's more Warm White-ness there.
Looks like it arrived safely; which is good.

It came perfect, installed right away and looks way cleaner with the LED’s underneath. Thank you and nice work!

#137 18 days ago
Quoted from lordloss:

The Sttng started out as a set of light boards, major assemblies, all ramps, balls guides, no playfield or cabinet, and some habitrails. I've sourced all the needed parts from all over the world. Total cost so far is about $1200. Building it back up.
Centaur playfield was mostly complete and intact, needed a cabinet and bg. Total cost so far on that one is about $200.

I’d love to follow along if you created a thread. Enjoy seeing folks bring back machines to life when they’re so far apart.

#138 17 days ago

Coming along. One non working opto. Easy fix here. Wired the emitter wrong so swapped and all working. Pic attached of the one done wrong.

Plays super fast and one bad shot sends it SDTM. I need to dial in the cannons too. They work but not as good as they should. The left cannon popper is intermittent so ordered both new harnesses. No reason not to even if (in this case) they look great.

One LED wasn’t working and just a connection issue. Easily resolved along with upper lane change switch needing a minor tweak.

Otherwise, after a second waxing it plays super fast. The underside wiring was mostly neatened up tonight too.
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#139 13 days ago

Left cannon has new harness rebuilt and it’s switches 100% dialed in.

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1 week later
#140 6 days ago

Another update: machine is playing without an issue. He suggested using some rubber rings for the outlanes as the extended versions aren’t available. This appears to be working out as an alternative. I removed the tubes so the rings are only around the screw.

Mirror blades won’t get installed until it leaves back to its home. But they are drilled and ready to install. I can’t wait to see how it looks with them installed and machine lit up.

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#141 6 days ago

Been following. That game is a beauty. What a great job!! It was the first game I let go and have regretted it ever since.

#142 5 days ago
Quoted from dmacy:

Another update: machine is playing without an issue. He suggested using some rubber rings for the outlanes as the extended versions aren’t available. This appears to be working out as an alternative. I removed the tubes so the rings are only around the screw.
Mirror blades won’t get installed until it leaves back to its home. But they are drilled and ready to install. I can’t wait to see how it looks with them installed and machine lit up.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Not sure if this is helpful or not but Titan has a Stern slim post sleeve (look up TNA ring kit). Maybe it could be cut down to fit?

#143 5 days ago
Quoted from Vyzer2:

Been following. That game is a beauty. What a great job!! It was the first game I let go and have regretted it ever since.

Thanks! I still remembering picking up your ToM way back when. So worried having someone trust me bringing their game home as a complete stranger.

#144 5 days ago
Quoted from dmacy:

Thanks! I still remembering picking up your ToM way back when. So worried having someone trust me bringing their game home as a complete stranger.

I never met dmacy yet he offered to pick up a game for me in buffalo many hours away from his home. It was one of the kindest and pinside type favors you could come across. I’ll never forget it and will remember it as one of the nicest things ever done for me. You’re a good man dmacy!

#145 5 days ago

Looks really nice, and I know just how much work goes into a restoration like this. There's a couple things that aren't quite right, but they may have been like that when you received the machine and are relatively minor.

#146 5 days ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

Looks really nice, and I know just how much work goes into a restoration like this. There's a couple things that aren't quite right, but they may have been like that when you received the machine and are relatively minor.

Thanks and please share. I’d rather have it right. There’s been more than a few things just as you said that were how it came. I know some things I’ve done intentionally and surprised no one has mentioned!

#147 5 days ago

Looks great!!

#148 4 days ago
Quoted from dmacy:

There’s been more than a few things just as you said that were how it came. I know some things I’ve done intentionally and surprised no one has mentioned!

I just wish I has saw this post before yesterday as the first item I saw would have been much easier to fix at the time. In the game you received there is a ball deflector siting in top left corner by the Romulan ship. You received the machine with the deflector in this location, however is simply doesnt belong there, it should be located behind the drop target to prevent balls from entering the opening under the Borg ship and disappearing behind the ramps.

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I actually found one picture that covers several things I was looking at.
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It appears that your two standup targets in the neutral zone are lower than the top of the playfield but this could just be an illusion based on the angle of the picture. I have to admit I had one hell of a time getting these to mount correctly for a variety of reason; I was able to get them into proper alignment (barely) after adjusting the leaf positioning and bending the mounting bracket just right. To anyone that has never replaced these in a STTNG, the space they fit into is VERY tight, there is not a lot of wiggle room to play with.
pasted_image (resized).png
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The Advance in Rank (AIR) / Command Decision is mounted in a position that makes it difficult to read from the players perspective. Even though it fits odd, and bumps up against the corner of the Delta ramp, that is indeed the correct placement, which is why this particular plastic is bent on every machine out there.

On my machine I simply cut the corner off of the Delta ramp that presses against this part, this small piece in no ways effects the strength of this assembly.

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WARNING NERD ALERT!
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The symbol of the Klingon Empire Emblem aka "The heart of Virtue" is of a trefoil design with the longest blade in the trefoil representing Honor which Klingons hold as their most important virtue; it should always be pointing up; pointing any other way is a sign of shame and dishonor.

Don't feel too bad about this, I have seen this happen countless times:
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pasted_image (resized).png

#149 4 days ago

For those following to get ideas for your own restoration, target decals are much easier to install with the switches out of the game ... and even easier with the switch harness out of the game.

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#150 4 days ago

Awesome and thank you! I’m a bit of a hack as I tell my friends. These were the issues I thought! I’ll be fixing the deflector. There were many issues with where it is; it doesn’t sit well when playfield is rating in normal height. The sign was one I did intentionally for just as you said about bending where it’s placed. For those not knowing, the 2 holes are there and looks to have been the original intent to mount this way. But yes, the mounting makes it harder to see. When mounted with just one, it does sit weird with the ramp. I made a concession on that and prefer the angle vs cutting. You found all!

The decals I’ll be honest I didn’t catch and actually still don’t!

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