Excellent tutorial!

Vinegar or Mustard is just about worthless when it comes to removing corrosion (because Mustard only has a ph of 5 compared to Snobowl's ph of 1). Your alkali that leaks from a battery is ph 13.

I'm sure we all remember this thread, lol:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/terrybs-guide-to-repairing-battery-damage

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You can rinse the boards off in a regular sink, just don't let any toilet cleaner glob sit in one spot for long. Once the cleaner has shot it's load, and you have diluted it with rinse water, it washes away without issue.

If you add an oxidizer, it sure will.

Take 3% Hydrogen Peroxide, and mix in some of your Muriatic Acid (2 ratio), THEN pour it on your stainless or chrome sink. Instant, permanent, black stains for your wife to enjoy!

The whole idea of the Snobowl is that the liquid is thick, so it does not run all over the board, into relays or under sockets. It's a very controlled process that you can do on location.

If you want to REMOVE the copper from the board, again add an oxidizer to the muriatic acid and let her rip.

Your acid/peroxide mix won't eat the copper protected by the green conformal coating, but any exposed copper will be completely removed in a few minutes (the warmer the temp, the faster the reaction).

BTW: if you are mixing up some acid/peroxide to etch a board or something, remember AAA - Always Add Acid.

You would pour the acid INTO the peroxide, never the other way around.

Interesting! I've never heard of acid melting plastics.

What parts melted? IC socket frames? Transistor casings? Nylon standoffs? Relay housings? The epoxy circuit board itself?

We need pics of this for sure.

Bleach is ph 12, so that would actually make it worse.

Yes, but sulfuric acid from a car battery is runny like water.

The SnoBowl is thick gel that stays right where you put it.

If it's fizzing, it's working.

(and it will kill 99% of all of your viruses too)

No way he was an electronic engineer with the solder job on those rear wires, LOL.

Congrats on extending the life of that board another few decades!

Even if they didn't, they would hand it over to the tech guys and say "fix this, and bill an hour to my department".

Check your label carefully.

"The Works" that they sell at my local store is Hypochlorite based - the opposite of what we need.

Right.

The Works says Hypochlorite on the $4.98 bottle, I could not find the cheaper one.

Who knows?

It's just like when everybody for years used Formula 409 to clean their tape head rollers .

Then one day they apparently changed the formula, and it started pitting all the rollers it touched.

Nothing on the label saying "New and Improved" or "New Formula 410", just pitted expensive rubber.

I changed it to Hypochlorite.

Thanks, I see how that could be taken the wrong way!