Quoted from vdojaq:Ceramic sink works just fine too.
I'd be concerned about the metal finish on the drain, though.
You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider forceflow.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
Quoted from vdojaq:Ceramic sink works just fine too.
I'd be concerned about the metal finish on the drain, though.
Quoted from bronco-jon:There is an Ebayer who goes by "Classicgameparts" and has posted an ad for Williams System 3 combo repair to refurbish the CPU, driver board and power supply for $235.00 plus $14.50 shipping.
Have you ever heard of this guy or know anybody that has used his services?
Also, wondering if there are hidden charges that will be applied once he has the boards?
That's way too much. You might as well get a replacement board instead.
There are several reputable repair guys who are much more reasonable.
Quoted from bronco-jon:So, the boards didn't come from the factory with sockets?
Only for the eprom/rom chips, but a different style of socket was used.
Remove socketed chips and ASIC (with the proper tool--not a screwdriver!). Use zep to remove surface corrosion (use a soft toothbrush to agitate) and rinse off board with water. Remove affected components and sand off the masking on the affected traces (but be careful not to do too much, since the traces are very thin). Use zep to remove corrosion from traces, and rinse with water. Sand and repeat if necessary. Final rinse with water, and displace water with alcohol. Blow out droplets from under chips/components with air compressor at an appropriate pressure. Let air dry. Solder in new components (don't reuse the affected ones you removed!), clean off flux, and seal exposed copper with clear nail polish.
Quoted from PappyBoyington:Is it okay to use regular water?
Yep, it's safe to use to rinse, but I usually like to use alcohol to finish up to ensure no contaminants/minerals get left behind.
Quoted from PappyBoyington:Do you know where I can get all three chips
Pinball or electronics suppliers. Simply to a search for the part number on the chip starting with "74", such as 74LS240. Electronics parts suppliers would probably be less expensive.
Quoted from stangbat:Same goes with the cap. After some clean up it will most likely be fine
It's better to replace a 25 year old electrolytic cap if you're removing it anyway. It's probably nearly dried out at this point.
Quoted from tonyhoff1:Wish I could find this stuff in my area. Anyone want to ship me some to Parma Ohio lol
You could have it shipped from home depot or lowes, if it's not on amazon.
You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider forceflow.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stripping-battery-corrosion-with-a-strong-acid?tu=forceflow and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.
Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.