(Topic ID: 170674)

Stripping battery corrosion with a strong acid

By barakandl

3 years ago

Topic Stats

  • 100 posts
  • 42 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 53 days ago by ForceFlow
  • Topic is favorited by 95 Pinsiders


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    Topic index (key posts)

    4 key posts have been marked in this topic

    Post #7 Cleaning technique Posted by barakandl (3 years ago)

    Post #8 Cleaning results of the acid compound on WMS system 3-6 MPU board Posted by barakandl (3 years ago)

    Post #10 Results of applying the acid compound on WPC MPU boards Posted by johnwartjr (3 years ago)

    Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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    #43 2 years ago

    I went to the store today to buy some acidic toilet bowl cleaner and the only kind I could find with acid was this Lysol Brand. I don't know what % of acid it should be.
    Can anyone tell me if this will work ok?

    Edit: In case you can't see the ingredients, it says, 9.50% hydrochloric acid

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    #45 2 years ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    If it's fizzing, it's working.
    (and it will kill 99% of all of your viruses too)

    Yes it did fizz some but not like crazy. I put it on and rinsed twice, this is the results.
    Because I don't have experience in circuit board repair I am going to try it without replacing the sockets.
    it may have already been mentioned, but is there a good way to clean out the pin holes in the sockets? looks like there is still a little crud in some of the holes.
    does it look like it cleaned up good enough to try?

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    #48 2 years ago
    Quoted from KenLayton:

    Yeh those sockets are shot. There's no fixing them and should be replaced.

    There is an Ebayer who goes by "Classicgameparts" and has posted an ad for Williams System 3 combo repair to refurbish the CPU, driver board and power supply for $235.00 plus $14.50 shipping.
    Have you ever heard of this guy or know anybody that has used his services?
    Also, wondering if there are hidden charges that will be applied once he has the boards?

    #49 2 years ago

    Also, I cleaned up the 40 pin connector on the driver board and thought it cleaned up pretty nice and would probably be ok until I started looking at more closely after I cleaned it...I guess I broke off about 3 of the female connectors while I was cleaning it with the bowl cleaner and a soft wire brush.

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    #51 2 years ago
    Quoted from barakandl:

    what adds to your problem is that the IC sockets have been replaced once before the battery leaked. people that work on these boards very often know what the expect from the factory soldered stuff. adding the unknown socket rework quality and then battery damage on top of that makes it really sketchy .
    2nd look at your pictures.... while you have removed the corrosion, your interconnect is still damaged. The connector plating has been stripped off. Need replaced.

    So, the boards didn't come from the factory with sockets?
    There are 13 sockets just on the MPU board alone not including the ones on the driver board.
    whoever soldered those sockets on looks to me like they knew what they were doing judging by what the back of the boards look like.
    I'm no circuit board guru but I know a hack job when I see one.
    What do you mean by "makes it really sketchy"?
    Do you think these boards are repairable or not?

    #52 2 years ago

    Also there are sockets on the opposite side of the board away from the battery holder and no sign of battery corrosion at all....I wonder why sockets were installed when there was no corrosion around them?

    #53 2 years ago

    The only part of the board I cleaned was where the battery holder was and just below it. I didn't want to get anything wet that I didn't have to.
    Again, I'm no expert but the board doesn't really look all that bad at all to me.
    I am just concerned about sending the three boards and $249.50 in to get "refurbished" , then get a call saying it will be more money to fix them.
    That's why I was asking if anyone has used this guys services before...maybe I should have started a new thread since this one is so old.

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    #57 2 years ago
    Quoted from ForceFlow:

    That's way too much. You might as well get a replacement board instead.
    There are several reputable repair guys who are much more reasonable.

    Any recommendations?

    #58 2 years ago
    Quoted from CactusJack:

    Socketing an entire board is one way of "shotgunning" the repair (replace everything). Of course, there are also times when solenoid voltage gets on the data bus and destroys all ICs that share the pins that get the HV.
    No reason to pay to repair the other boards if they aren't damaged.
    But yes, you also need to at least replace the female molex interconnect connectors as those internal leafs will start breaking if they got the alkaline too.

    But wouldn't it be a good ideal to have the driver board refurbished and the power supply too since the MPU is gonna have to be done?
    .....and I don't even know if there are issues with the driver or supply boards anyway

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