Webster, NY
The regular multi-ball that you get for defeating a fighter is a 2 ball where you build to the jackpot shot but Torpedo multi-ball is 3 ball where you get 3M points per switch.
(Topic ID: 97724)
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Street Fighter II
Gottlieb, 1993
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4 months later
Quoted from ImNotNorm:Just throwing this out here since there's a ton of SF2 enthusiasts in this thread. I'm looking for a under playfield plastic ramp part (#29514) for the Bison/Balrog VUK. Mine is cracked and finished....causing the pinball to sometimes get stuck in the vuk unless I nudge the right side of the machine.
Not a big problem but something I'd like to fix. All of the used ones I found online are in horrible shape.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/street-fighter-2-plastic-ramp-29514#post-3848353
Any help/advice in obtaining one would be appreciated!
If you search this page on the part number it looks like pbresource has them.
http://www.pbresource.com/pfplayf.htm
Do you have a picture of it, maybe someone can suggest a fix for yours.
1 week later
Quoted from zimjoe:I don't remember off the top of my head. I used a 2 part wood product, but Bondo or JB weld would also work. I would check the playfield repair thread by the much more qualified vid1900 . I cleaned the holes up good and then roughed them up including small holes to hold the filler.
It's hard to tell from pictures, but if most of the material is there you may not need wood filler. Wait till you have the protectors and see how much is unsupported on the inside of the hole.
Thanks. The holes on mine are in good physical shape but the paint around them had chipped.
Quoted from smitherssp:Can you specify what epoxy brand/model you used?
Thanks!
Smithers
I used Dap Plastic Wood to fix the jump ramp on my South Park Kenny hole and it has been holding up without an issue for over a year. I did exactly what zimjoe said, clean up any loose wood fibers and drill some small holes into the solid wood to give it support.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/DAP-Plastic-4-oz-Wood-Filler/4013497
Quoted from smitherssp:Anyone ever run into this stuck ball issue? It seems like the vertical bracket isn't aligned vertically enough with the corkscrew. I was thinking of using a small piece of 3M VHB double sided tape to adhere it to the red plastic. Thoughts?
I had this happen when I first got my machine. I just bent the metal l bracket to fit tightly against the spiral and haven't had this happen in years. Your tape idea should also work, any way you can get the metal bracket against the spiral.
1 week later
Quoted from smitherssp:Just to clarify; all 4 flipper rubbers are 3/8" X 1.5"? Anyone out there have a nice color selection? I was thinking orange to match the blue/orange theme of the pin. Anyone make silicone rubbers in this size?
Titan has silicone rings that fit gottliebs. Don't forget there are 5 flipper rubbers, the 3 main ones, the car crunch, and chun li.
2 weeks later
Quoted from smitherssp:The upper play field? Good luck. I have a NOS upper and after taking a look at the upper assembly I chickened out. I don't even know where to start! I need to do it though as the exit habitrail is dislocated from the under side of the upper deck.
Here's building on the last post from statictrance with some pictures.
Remove the left ramp.
LeftRamp (resized).jpg
Remove the middle ramp.
CenterRamp (resized).jpg
Remove the left ramp.
RightRamp (resized).jpg
Remove the flipper assembly.
ChunLiFlipper (resized).jpg
Remove the upper playfield.
UpperPlayfield (resized).jpg
You may also need to loosen the screws that hold the left habitrail in place. If you just need to get the left habitrail back into the metal loop on the upper playfield you can remove the screws that hold the habitrail and pull it out sideways and reinsert the pins into the metal loop.
Quoted from ImNotNorm:Thanks to latenite04 (& statictrance) for the easy breakdown on how to change the upper-playfield.
I am tool/handyman challenged and was nervous about attempting to switch it out without supervision (I need an adult!!!)
I did it all in less than an hour and I found the most time consuming part was replacing all the pieces needed on the new upper-playfield (screws, ball posts, etc)
Will post pics shortly
Your welcome, glad it helped. I had the pictures handy since I just finished shopping mine a week ago. There is that moment of panic when you have it stripped down to the playfield that you might never get it back together.
20170811_112553 (resized).jpg
Quoted from Breaking_Dad:what are the square foam pads at the end of the habitrail called
Mine has them on both habitrails and on the metal plates over the upkickers, they are hard plastic. They are listed on pbr as ball snubbers. At the end of the habitrail I would think a wide piece of high density weather stripping would work well.
Quoted from cocomonkeh:How much were the NOS ones?
Pbr has them listed for $30 on their website.
Quoted from Mattamoose:Fairly new to the club and have been looking for some custom instruction cards. I don't mind donating a few bucks if the work is good, anybody have a source?
I looked for quite some time and have never seen a set for this machine. I put these together one night because I was tired of looking at my faded cards. If anyone else has a nice set of cards I'd love to see them.
SF2FreePlayCard144dpi.jpg
rulescardcorrectsizeblue.jpg
rulescardcorrectsizeblack.jpg
Quoted from Breaking_Dad:Hi...I'm going to install the arcade mod...does it matter which side I plug it in to...the service or the validator outlet...???!!!...Thank you............Joey
I believe you want the validator outlet, it should be switched on with the machine's power. The service outlet should always have power, even when the machine is turned off.
Quoted from Breaking_Dad:Ok...dumb question again...(sry)...how do I get to this flasher to replace it...and how do I get the little black plugs off...(I'm missing one on my top most flasher,anyone know what they're called so I can order some)...Thank you all for your help.. ................Joey
To get at that flasher you have to remove the shooter lane habitrail. It's held on by a machine screw at the top, a wood screw in the middle( the one that is in your picture), and two lock nuts under the playfield at the bottom. It will still be attached by the wires for the opto at the top but you should be able to swing it out of the way. You can then remove the plastic that the flasher is mounted to by removing the two speed nuts. The black plugs are plastic rivets. Below are the gottlieb part numbers if you order from pbr but marco sells plastic rivets as well. To remove them you need to pull the center pin out. The easiest way to do it is to push on the pin from the bottom with a small flat screwdriver to get the head to pop up and then pry it out carefully. If you can't get to the underside of the rivet you can use a small flat screwdriver to wedge under the head and work it up. These things tend to break easily.
GTB-MP10 .28”long
GTB-MP91 .39” long
1 week later
Quoted from ImNotNorm:Ok thanks....I'll hold off on ordering until I can get this confirmed. I appreciate it
This site is so great. The community is very helpful
uncivil_engineer is correct. The GI are all #44 or #47. Essentially the same bulb but 44 is hotter and maybe a bit brighter. The flashers are #89.
Quoted from ImNotNorm:With that said.....I assume these will do the job?
Yes
2 weeks later
Quoted from jjoravec:I just picked up a project street fighter 2. It was missing the flipper motor on the bottom of the playfield. I got a replacement motor. Can someone take some close up pictures of how it mounts and how it is wired. I see 4 cut wires hanging down and I assume they go to the motor but not sure were the wires go.
Thanks
Here are pics of the Chun Li motor if that's what you were looking for. It's mounted to the playfield with a 3 screw L bracket on one side. It looks like it only has two wires, grey/yellow and grey/red. If you post a picture of the cut wires someone might be able to recognize what they go to.
20170913_211216 (resized).jpg
20170913_211232 (resized).jpg
Quoted from jjoravec:I believe this connector is what gets wired to the motor am I correct?
That's the one. If the motor doesn't have the matching connector you can get one at Great Planes Electronics, or probably pbr, or just cut and solder it.
Quoted from jjoravec:Here is a picture of the cut wires and the connector that I am not sure where they go.
Those wires go to the opto switch on the right subway. The manual lists it as MA-1925. PBR has two listed that might work gtb-ma1913j and gtb-ma1667. The picture for gtb-ma1913j has the same connector label as your picture so I'm guessing that's the correct one. If you have the bracket still attached to the subway it looks like marco might have transmitter and receiver boards.
20170914_211922 (resized).jpg
Quoted from jjoravec:Can someone post a picture of the fuse holder and how its wired. I have 2 loose wire bundles and not sure where they should be solders back?
Your fuse holder is fine but you are missing the outhole switch 21, part 26927.
20170914_212112 (resized).jpg
2 months later
Quoted from uncivil_engineer:Does anyone know where I could buy a replacement connector for one of the plugs for the machine I am restoring? It is the 16 pin connector for the GI in the back box.
Those are the Molex minifit jr connectors. Gpe has them as well as most other large electronic suppliers.
BTW your restore is looking great.
2 weeks later
Quoted from uncivil_engineer:A quick question for SF2 owners....
In the process of doing my restoration, I am having trouble locating a source for the decal that goes around the outside edge of the car-smash window in the playfield. Has anyone found a source for these? I checked with pbresources, and they don't have any.
I've never seen anyone selling the plastic window or the decal unless it was out of a parted game.
If you can recreate it you can probably have one made.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/custom-decals-printing-and-cutting-for-pinheads-only
Good luck, the pics in your restore thread are looking great.
1 month later
Quoted from smitherssp:Does anyone know which transistor drives the left kicking rubber? Mine is locked on. And keeps popping fuses. Actually melted the coil.
The manual says that the left kicking rubber uses Q2. Transistor RFP12N10L or IRL530.
1 month later
Quoted from bimm25i:NOT looking forward to putting this back together!
Good luck. The only advice I would offer is if you are going to remove the standup posts at the ramp entrances heat the t nut under the playfield with a soldering gun first to break down the loctite that was used. I twisted off 3 of 4 posts trying to get them out but once I heated it up and the loctite smoked off the 4th spun out easily.
3 weeks later
Quoted from lowndes8:I have been having some issues with my ball shooter. I took it apart today but this doesnt look right
Can anyone tell me if anything should be in here?
I cant find any diagrams online
I think im missing this? http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/26313
That's it. The entire shooter assembly is 26314 and if you search that on marco it lists the shooter sleeve. I believe that it's the same diameter as a williams one but just a bit shorter. I cut one down that I picked up locally.
2 weeks later
Quoted from ImNotNorm:Hey guys, I'm in desperate need of a part.
The start switch on my SF2 seems to have broken yesterday. (2 weeks before YEGPIN starts where Im donating for the weekend in the kids tournament)
Start button lights up, I cleaned the contacts and tested in the switch matrix. No response in the matrix test.
Wondering if anyone has a replay switch assembly they could sell. I'd buy from Marcos but it wouldn't arrive in time for YEGPIN.
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/B-18092
Any help would be appreciated
Did you test the switch directly with a multimeter for continuity? Those switches don't break easily. In a pinch you should be able to steal the slam tilt switch from the coin door to use for the weekend. I doubt many kids can throw around a system 3 cabinet. Good luck getting it working.
2 months later
Here's a picture of the one way gate.
20170617_014844 (resized).jpg
And one on ebay for a better look. ebay.com link: GOTTLIEB PREM STREET FIGHTER PINBALL PLAYFIELD RIGHT BALL GATE
If you are talking about either the Blanka or Vega shots there should be a hard plastic shock absorbing pad on the metal stop at the end of the shot, if that has fallen off the ball would bounce hard.
1 week later
Quoted from boslj:Thanks, I will work on the gate, but I've also noticed that the kicker kicks the ball so hard that it sometimes actually knocks an extra ball into the shooter lane (the game releases the next ball into the shooter lane and then the out hole kicker knocks another one in with the force).
Check what coil you have on the kicker. In the pictures you can see mine is a pink A-26450. Yours is orange but I can't see a number. Maybe someone put a higher powered coil in.
Quoted from boslj:My coil is A-26451. Any idea if this is a higher powered one than the A-26450?
Oddly enough it looks like my coil should be stronger. The manual says that your coil is correct. How do the plunger/coil stop look, are they mushroomed giving you too much travel?
3 weeks later
I have had that happen every once in a while but not often. Is edge of the hole worn? You could try putting some dead drop foam on the metal rail where the ball exits.
https://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=131
2 months later
Quoted from jp1985:Parts - For Sale
Street Fighter 2 Replica CarNew!New “Selling a hand painted replica of the Street Fighter 2 car used in the car crunch. These cars are made with a thicker plastic to correct the design flaw causing the original car to...”
7 hours ago T 75
jp1985
Nice work. Did you have to create your own vacuum mold or did you contract with someone?
2 months later
Quoted from pinplayerinva:Can someone with a manual post a pic of the rubbers needed for SF2 Thanks in advance
Here you go. Titan also had listing for it in their database.
https://www.titanpinball.com/kits/index.php/browse/bygame/4744
20190112_125006 (resized).jpg 1 month later
Like chitownpinball said you should be able to push in the metal plate that holds back the balls releasing them one at a time.
UnderApron (resized).jpg
Your broken piece looks like the back plate of a cabinet flipper switch.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-9361
2 weeks later
Quoted from Bladesii:Can any one tell me what size rivets to use when replacing a plastic face for a target? I’m replacing the 1inch diameter circle plastic face on one of the targets by dazim the 3 behind extra ball that are associated with the 3 green lights
GTB-FA551A
1/8 X 7/32 -Nickel Plated (Steel) -Used for Target Faces & Most Ramp Flaps
This is a good quick read on replacing the faces and the rivet info comes from post 36.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/replacing-stand-up-target-faces-vids-guide
When you get to the car assembly it has to be removed from the bottom of the playfield. There are 4 or 6 metal L brackets that hold it to the bottom of the playfield with screws. Remove the screws and disconnect the wires and it should come right out. If you put some tape on either side of the electrical connections with a label it will make putting it back together easy.
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:Where can you get the foam washers? I fashioned some home-made ones and they’re flattening out rapidly and giving me airballs off the window.
Marco and pbresource part # GTB-21219.
2 weeks later
The glue job on my original car started cracking again a few weeks ago so I decided now was the time to design its 3d printed replacement. I added led headlights because I figured if I was going to the trouble of replacing it I might as well ad something. So far it's been in and holding up for a week and one is on it's way to smitherssp for more testing.
20190403_231116 (resized).jpg
20190406_194343 (resized).jpg
Video of the lights:
Quoted from Edenecho:Possible to buy one?
Yes, I will be making them. Probably $100 shipped in the US. This week is spring break, Easter, and my daughters birthday so I won't have time to start anything until at least next week. I'll post when I have some.
Quoted from Chitownpinball:Ive never had my car smash go twice in a row like that, what is the deal? My car smash is one and done, even on "hard"
The tension spring for the car reset plate on mine is on it's last legs and sometimes the plate stays loose and the car resets a bit.
1 week later
I created a thread with details on building a car for those who are interested. I'm still working on building a few, it will be a couple more days.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/3d-printed-street-fighter-ii-car-replacement
1 week later
3 weeks later
Last night I finished building and installing some speaker lights. It was a bit of a pain because I had to enlarge the smaller speaker hole to make them match.
If anyone else wants to make some here are the speaker led holders I designed, https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3647951.
20190522_200336 (resized).jpg
20190522_200117 (resized).jpg
1 month later
3 weeks later
Quoted from matiou:Hello all!
I'm working on repairing an SF2 machine and the connections of the coin door have been all stripped off
I'm looking for a picture of the inside of the door, where i could see the connectors A10J1/A10P1 and also the location of the A24 board (front door interface).
Can someone help me with this? It would be greatly appreciated!
Here you go. Let me know if you need other/more detailed photos of something. Do you have the manual?
20190812_134113 (resized).jpg
20190812_134126 (resized).jpg
20190812_134139 (resized).jpg
Quoted from matiou:I may need help again with my SF2 wiring... I'm looking for a picture of the diode mounted on the cabinet wall next to the knocker... I would appreciate if it was possible to see its polarity and the colors of the wires soldered to it... I could not find a good reference to it in the manual.
Thanks in advance!
The band on the diode is toward the back of the cabinet. Rear wires are black/red, front wires are green/red.
1 week later
Quoted from matiou:Ok... So I have another newbie question... where is the switch B1 ??? (right wire ramp, optical). I know where the B0 is (top right ramp, optical), but not the B1 and it's always registering as "closed" on my machine.
Thanks!
It should be this one that gets triggered from the GUILE shot.
Quoted from matiou:isn't this one A1 ?
I still cannot find B1 in the manual diagram! weird...[quoted image]
You are right. I don't know where B1 is. The only other reference in the manual I saw to it was on the switch matrix page. It looks like it connects to one of the quad opto boards on the bottom of the car crunch. You could try and trace the wires, or inspect the board for any damaged components. I guess you could also swap the two opto boards and see if the error goes away.
20190827_005918 (resized).jpg
1 week later
Quoted from matiou:I found 3 nails like the one in the picture below... Should I get rid of them?[quoted image]
Those are from the factory. I assume to prevent ball hangups or stop a plastic from flexing. I would leave them.
2 weeks later
Quoted from matiou:How to disassemble this part (chun li kick flipper) ?? pull hard from the bottom ? unscrew ?
(I want to replace the white plastic bat)[quoted image]
There's a lip on the plastic flipper that can bend the metal when you pull it off. If you don't want to keep the old plastic flipper I would cut the bottom and bend up the sides to make it easier to remove.
1 month later
Quoted from Spacemanratso09:In the club and stoked .My brother has always loved this game I’ve never played it but kinda like everything about it.
The art ,the backglass ha ha I think it’s great.love the music
I have one concern though
The first couple days at start up I would get a “bing” chime like normal
But today at start up several times when I would turn it on before the “bing” there is a very high pitched squeal for a a second or two
Was wondering what was wrong
Any help would be appreciated thank you great game
Welcome to the club, that machine looks really clean. My machine has always made the loud squeal at startup so I think it's normal. I feel like it's always worse if I have had the machine on, turned it off for a few minutes to work on something and then turned it back on again.
1 month later
Quoted from chadryan44:I’m looking for new leg bolt plates for my Gottlieb system 3s. I see Marco’s has some that fit Sega/Stern/Data East. Anybody know if they will fit Gottlieb too? Or know where I can find a set for Gottlieb? Didn’t see any on their site.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/535-7394-00
I would think those would fit but this is the style that's on the system 3.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-9296
Quoted from Chitownpinball:Any one local to me with a sf2 and a rom burner? Need to re burn my sound roms.
If you find a burner near by I've got the rom files.
4 weeks later
3 months later
Welcome to the club and pinside. The car crunch win is an optical switch at the back of the mini playfield. It looks like the car plunger on your machine is all the way back which would break the beam and trigger that switch. The switch is probably working but it seems like you have a car reset issue, the plunger should move forward when the lower playfield is activated. Check to see if the return springs are broken or stretched. You can manually reset the plunger by moving the release plate.
The switches on the slingshot above the left flipper probably just need to be adjusted, bent closer together, or cleaned. The contacts should touch when a ball bounces off the rubber ring. You can run a business card or points file between the contacts to clean them.
Take your flipper button out and check to see if it moves freely, they get gummed up. You might just need to clean it or get a new one.
For the window if it's just the vinyl sticker that is bubbled you can peal it off and cut some new vinyl to replace it, if the plastic is damaged jodyg was making replacements. There are nuts under the playfield that let you adjust the window to get the edges flush with the wood.
If you can't make the ramp shots you probably need to do a flipper clean/rebuild.
Try taking the screws out of the translite lock plate, they are probably torx or security torx. I think that gives you enough wiggle room to get the lock or translite out.
Window replacement: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1188-ramp-o-matic/03358-gottlieb-street-fighter-ii-replacement-playfield-window
Quoted from keninem:latenite04 thank you for a ton of great information! I'm going to see if I can get a look at the car plunger tonight. Is it fairly simple to remove the entire housing like you have in the picture there? I've worked on my arcade games before, but I'm really cautious about doing something on a pin that would mess something up. The piece that's coming up on the window is just the (i guess) vinyl sticker that's protecting it.. you can see it somewhat in my third pic, right above the second "E" in "Street". Is there a good place to order a replacement sticker for, or even a sheet that is recommended that I could size/cut myself?
Taking the mini playfield off isn't too hard it's just 4 screws. You should be able to make a replacement sticker out of the adhesive vinyl sheets that they sell at craft stores or they guy who sells the replacement window was making them, reach out to him and see if he's going to make more.
1 month later
Quoted from keninem:Good morning fellow Street Fighter II fans! This past week I installed a non-ghosting LED kit on my machine and for the most part I'm really happy with how it looks. Unfortunately I'm having an issue getting to a few different flasher bulbs, and was hoping someone had some advice (hopefully without taking off everything on the playfield!) Anyone know an easy way to get to these to replace them?
[quoted image][quoted image]
Pull the playfield out to the service position so it's resting on the font of the cabinet and prop the back of the playfield up with a piece of 2x4 so the playfield is level. That should give you access to the side. I think for the first flasher you have to remove the plastic because the lamp holder is held on to the plastic with the black rivets in the flasher dome.
Quoted from Time:Ive been looking for a replacement original translite. Not finding it anywhere.
2 months later
Quoted from smitherssp:latenite04 I saw your car crunch replacement panes are out of stock. Will you be making another round?
Regarding the car crunch: The two screws that hold the amazing car you printed me to the t plunger keep backing themselves out. I was going to apply some locktite 242 (blue) to solve this issue. Is that an acceptable fix? Am I doing something wrong with the current screws? Thanks!
I'll probably make some more once the weather cools off and the outdoor maintenance dies down.
Blue Loctite should do the trick, the red stuff sure keeps those damn playfield posts in place.
Quoted from smitherssp:Man that car with the headlights just looks so amazing. Best mod ever! Thanks again! Part of me wants to try my hand at using novus 3-2-1 to polish the current window I have. It's missing two or three studs so not much lost if I mess it up. Looking forward to your next run of windows!
I'm glad you like the car.
Sorry, I misread the part about the windows, JodyG makes those. Awesome guy to work with.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1188-ramp-o-matic/03804-gottlieb-streetfighter-ii-playfield-window
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1188-ramp-o-matic/03805-gottlieb-streetfighter-ii-car-chase-plastic
3 months later
Quoted from jdoz2:I’m getting close in having a working SFII! Im still looking for the plastic that goes in front of the speaker panel, but more importantly I’m missing the right up post that holds the ball on the wireform.
Does anyone have one they would sell? I contacted the person on eBay selling a lot of sfII mechs but haven’t gotten a reply. Here’s a photo for reference
[quoted image]
The manual says it's part ma-1723, I couldn't find that but it looks close to 29646. Do you have one you can measure? If you email pbresource they might be able to tell you if the two are interchangeable.
search for 29646 or 30187 site:pbresource.com
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/29646
1 week later
Quoted from Bennyv07:Thanks brother! I also think it would look cool and should have an awesome effect with some upgraded LEDs down there. Also, if you are speaking of Latenight's Headlamp mod, I would love that as well! First thing I have to figure out before doing all of this, is why doesn't my car kick back all the way when I hit it? The lower playfield plays well, and I still receive a "You Win" response after hitting it but, after seeing a few other videos, i noticed my car doesn't get kicked back enough to reveal the "Winner" light below the car. I doubt if the rod even reaches the optics in the back. I have run the Test Mode and when I chose the "Car Reset" test and hit the start button, nothing happens. Could this be a bad solenoid that needs to be replaced? I have already done some cleaning and removal of the lower playfield so I feel confident in doing the repair. Just need to know what to purchase and if it is indeed a bad solenoid. Thanks for any help in advance!
Solenoids don't go bad too often but it's possible, look for any loose wires and check the molex connector that attaches the release coil to the harness to make sure it's not worn. There's a few physical things that could be stopping it from working.
20200118_060343 (resized).jpg
20200118_062233 (resized).jpg
Chitownpinball asked me about printing a car closer in color to the lexus and if decals were possible. This is the first attempt so far, I'm waiting on actual decals.
20201231_215524 (resized).jpg
sf2carcrunchwgreycar (resized).jpg
Quoted from Bennyv07:latenite04 do you have a link by chance for the correct springs? Or do you know the length so i may check Lowes/Home Depot? Thanks again.
Those are the correct springs according to the manual. You can also check the car rod to make sure it's not bent and doesn't have any gouges in it that would make it bind.
I would remove the car crunch playfield and check if it will move back by hand. It looks like the car is hitting something. Is the front where it mounts cracked and re-glued? Maybe it's sitting a little low and the back of the car is running into the rod support.
Quoted from Bennyv07:latenite04 Just removed everything again and physically slid the rod myself without the release plate and it doesn't look like anything is restricting movement. What i am thinking is that either the springs are too short or the flipper is not hitting hard enough to actually move the car. I have noticed less flipper power the further back the car goes. Could that be an issue?
Is your eos switch adjusted correctly? Is it closed until just before the flipper travel ends?
Quoted from Bennyv07:Ill double check that. If not, do I need to loosen the screws and reseat the flipper?
You would need to bend the switch blades a little. Also make sure the contact on the eos switch is clean.
4 weeks later
1. It's adjustment 35 in the Game Adjustments menu
1b. Tournament changes the random awards/fighter order to be all the same to even up scoring between players
2. Try adjusting the switch arm/checking that the switch registers and nothing is broken
4. Yes, I think you just have to email him. https://www.passionforpinball.com/WIP/SF2-2017-PF-set.jpg
7 months later
Quoted from statictrance:Does anyone know what happened to the SF2 colorization files? I finally made the jump into a few boards and definitely wanted to put one in SF2... I looked out on the VPin forums, but could only see files for the virtual, not for a real game. Is Malenko still around/active in here?
The google drive with the files is in the first post here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/make-street-fighter-ii-great-again
8 months later
Quoted from Robotworkshop:What is the length for the legs on the Street Fighter pinball? Picked up a project game that was missing the legs. The DMD display panel is also missing. Is that a regular DMD panel like Williams, Data East, etc or special for the Gottlieb machines? Have a lot or work to do before I can even think of powering it up. Going to start gathering parts.
Seems like it may be a cool game and definitely different than my others.
My machine has 31" legs, I think they are original.
The DMD panel is two pieces, the back is MDF that the dmd and speakers mount to and there is a plexiglass front panel. If you search ebay for "gottlieb system 3 dmd panel" there's a few used ones for sale, or you could cut your own.
I've got an svg for the layout of the front speaker panel plastic in this google drive share.
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1u2rDHZh6YPf9itBqIEY6qAJOg08sc8jb
Quoted from Robotworkshop:Thanks for the clarification on the legs. At least I know what to look for.
I guess I wasn’t clear about the DMD. The panel with speakers is there but the actual DMD is gone. I have a spare out of a Data East but that is a high voltage DMD panel and I’m not sure if that will work. If not then I need to look for a DMD as well.
The data east display will work but in the long run I agree with malenko, the color looks awesome.
1 week later
Quoted from Robotworkshop:Can someone post a clean picture of the fuse chart for the power brick in the bottom of the cabinet? I have the manual which has the fuse list but I didn’t see a diagram that shows what the fuse holder numbers are for those.
The ones under the playfield are well marked. Looked through the photo gallery for this thread but didn’t find a good picture.
Is this what you're looking for?
20220621_221006 (resized).jpg
1 year later
Quoted from Sirgubster9:Hi guys! brand new member here and mine is certainly going to need some exterior work!!!!! wowzers. but the gameplay works pretty well.. almost. I cant get my flipper in the lower playfield to do anything at all. I got a new 2 amp fuse for it and did my best to trace the wires and everything seems reasonable. I'm curious if there is a way to test it in the test menu. I was able to pretty much test every other solenoid besides that one. It doesn't really have a name in the test menu that I can find. I tried it during gameplay though and got nothing. My lower playfield is also missing the car so my plan is to really get in there and take the playfield apart and poke around but i was curious if I could test it in the test menu. I would think the right flipper normally operates it right?
Under the playfield is "Relay S" that sends power to the lower playfield flipper. It's operated by solenoid 23. Check to make sure that's operating, the switch blades might just be dirty or bent.
Quoted from Sirgubster9:Found the relay s! Thank you. When I test it in the test menu it does work. Now any ideas what I can do next to get flipper underneath working?
[quoted image][quoted image]
Pinside_forum_7848151_0 (resized).jpg
Use your multimeter on the switch lugs at 1 to test for continuity when you move the white plate to close the relay switch. You said you checked the switch contacts but I'm not sure if you meant the flipper button switch or this one on the relay, this is the one I thought might need to be cleaned. You can also check for continuity between the switch and the flipper lug to make sure there isn't a wire issue between the two. With the machine on you should be able to measure 48v at that switch.
Pinside_forum_7848151_1 (resized).jpg
3 should be the connector for the flipper. Check to make sure none of the wires/pins are broken and unclip/clip it a few times to make sure you get a good connection in case it has oxidized over time. Have you made sure the flipper plunger moves manually and isn't seized?
Quoted from Sirgubster9:Hi thanks for info and pics and labels!!! Confirmed continuity at 1 when I press the flipper relay 23.
Where am I supposed to check for 48v exactly?
Plunger is not seized, it moves freely when I mess with it.
When I use the test menu and press start at solenoid 23 should the flipper in the car crunch area go up and down?
Please continue to help me if you can. Also I received your email and I greatly appreciate it. Thank you. The quality was significantly better than mine.
48v should be going to one side of the switch that gets activated by solenoid 23, when that switch closes it sends power through to the car flipper.
The test for solenoid 23 activates that coil closing the switch, if you press the right flipper button just after activating the coil the car flipper should flip once before the test menu moves on to the next option.
Here's the old thread about a similar issue with the car flipper, maybe something in there can help: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/street-fighter-ii-car-flipper
Quoted from kevster:I've been playing my SF2 a LOT lately. I just cannot complete the wizard mode for some reason. Really, really want to beat it! I told myself that once I complete Champion Challenge, then I can really dig into just getting a high score. Think the closest I've gotten is defeating 8 or 9 fighters in CC. I know I'll get there.
Also, I'm wondering which shot folks consider to be the toughest in the game. I hear people say the Guile shot quite a bit, but that one doesn't tend to give me much trouble. Personally, I really struggle to hit the Ken/Ryu shot with any kind of consistency.
What about all of you? Most difficult shot? Have you beaten wizard mode?
Once you beat Champion Challenge you will be well on your way to a high score, the 500 million bonus for that and the 300 million repeatable final jackpot for multiball rack up the points.
I think Ken/Ryu is the most frustrating because you can't trap and aim but Chun Li is the risky one for me with a chance of sdtm if it doesn't go.
Quoted from kevster:Just had something strange happen:
I was on my second ball, just needed the Chun Li shot to enter Champion Challenge. Then suddenly, the game thought I'd hit the shot, the flippers froze for the wizard mode intro, draining the ball. After the intro, the game ended wizard mode because of the drain, and proceeded to ball 3.
No idea what made the game think I hit the shot. I don't even think it hit an actual switch when it entered CC mode. Maybe bounced off the slings or a stand up target. But it was no where near the Chun Li switch. Bizarre.
This sounds like what happens when you have bad/cracked solder joints on the opto boards for the ramp switches. Vibrations will set off phantom hits. If you put it in switch test mode and wiggle some wires you might see the ramp switches being triggered. You usually just have to reflow the solder on the opto transmitter/receiver boards.
Quoted from Sirgubster9:Thanks for link, his fix was super easy. Just thing wasn't making contact. I am getting no voltage from switch I don't think. Any thoughts what to look into next?
[quoted image][quoted image]
The voltage on one side of that switch should be 48v, use the flipper coil ground as the other half of the circuit. Those two wires are the same line and just get connected when solenoid 23 fires. Is your coin door open when you are testing? Do you have the high voltage interlock switch at the coin door pulled out?
Did you try testing solenoid 23 followed by the right flipper button to see if you get a flipper pulse?
Quoted from Sirgubster9:I'm still confused on where to test to figure out if im getting 48 volt.
My coin door is open when I'm doing the testing. And the high voltage interlock may be pulled out. I will confirm that I have the high voltage interlock pushed in before measure voltage again.
I did Try testing solenoid 23 followed by the right flipper and I got no flipper pulse at all, completely dead. I also during game play have gotten to the car crunch many times and every time it basically Just feels dead down there.
The high voltage interlock has three positions, pushed in ( This allows high voltage when the coin door is closed ), out ( When the coin door is open this cuts off high voltage ), and a testing position where you pull the plunger on the switch out even further ( This allows you to test high voltage items with the coin door open ).
The Red/Orange/Orange wire should have 48v, use that as the positive on your multimeter and use something like the braided ground strap as the ground side, that voltage should be coming from the transformer through the F26 fuse to the switch at solenoid 23. If you are not getting voltage at that switch start working your way back to the fuse and see if you have voltage there.
Pinside_forum_7860116_0 (resized).jpg
flipper diagram (resized).png
If you are getting voltage the next thing I would check is the coil to see if it has a broken wire or internal short.
A-26646 GOTTLIEB LARGE 4.57 Ohms/201.0 Ohms 25/33 725/3470 Blue Flipper Coil
Quoted from Sirgubster9:OK we are getting somewhere my friend. All thanks to you. Thanks for walking me through it. I do have 48v dc and then some using the multimeter at that switch. I checked the coil and I can't see anything wrong with it. I have an extra coil from another game I believe and I was thinking I could hook that up to see if it's the coil. Is there something I can test with the multi meter closer to the coil to see if the power is actually getting all the way to the coil?
Also if I where to swap in a new coil I would need to resolder 4 wires I believe plus like a weird diode thing...is that diode necessary? And I assume they sell those at Marco pinball or wherever?
[quoted image]
Pinside_forum_7868980_0 (resized).jpg
Use a rubber band or some tape to hold the switch at the S relay closed and you should get 48v all the way at the coil on lugs 1 and 2. The power comes in at 1 and then through the eos switch and that yellow capacitor to 2.
If you set your multimeter to ohms and measure between 1 and 3 you should see a reading around 4.5. Between 2 and 3 should be around 200. If you see numbers largely outside of those readings you probably have a short, if you don't see any reading you might have a broken coil wire at one of the lugs.
Flipper Schematic (resized).jpg
If you have power at the coil and the ohms look ok it's time to start tracing down the return side of the wiring harness. Test continuity from lug 3 to the connector. and from the other side of the connector back to the A15 sensor board.
If you have power at the coil you should be able to run a jumper wire between the return side of your right flipper and the return side of your lower flipper, they share a return in the schematic. If that works there might be an issue with the A15 board.
1 week later
Quoted from Sirgubster9:you are the man and a legend in my eyes!!!! thank you! it was a busted coil, i have never had a completely dead coil before; its always at least did something. replaced it and we are running sweet now, thanks again!
I'm glad you got it sorted out. Enjoy playing your game.
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