(Topic ID: 97724)

Street Fighter club, all welcome.....ready, set, shoot!

By Damon

9 years ago


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  • 145 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 days ago by FLASHBALL
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There are 1,423 posts in this topic. You are on page 28 of 29.
#1351 1 year ago

I am trying to fix the tournament mode twitch on my Street Fighter to enable free play since it doesn't want to work (the regular test menu still works however). I am planning to troubleshoot the strobe 0 switch matrix but just to rule out the lamps being the problem I wanted to try disconnecting A3J4 from the driver board as per http://www.pinrepair.com/sys3/. The problem is however that I can't seem to find that connector...

In the manual the diagram only shows A3P1-P7 however in the general information on page 24 it mentions "printed circuit board connectors will be labeled AX-JX. For example A3-J4 is the connector J4 to the driver board (A3).

Is this a typo or am I just stupid...

1 week later
#1352 1 year ago
Quoted from Graffixload:

Hello,
I am very interested in getting a color DMD for my SFII machine. Can anyone point me in the right direction of where I can purchase one? Feel free to PM me. Thanks!

Im getting to that point again too. Ive wanted to do it before and I always get cold feet.

Also probably has to do with my game not having sound in years. Im still getting just random beeps and screeches every so often. Ive had it looked at by a tech and he said it was proms. I did the proms finally (thanks who ever that was it was so long ago).

No change. So bummed. Game plays fine otherwise.

#1353 1 year ago
Quoted from Graffixload:

Hello,
Can anyone point me in the right direction of where I can purchase one?

I got mind from GGS
https://www.facebook.com/germangamingsupplies
https://germangamingsupplies.com/

#1354 1 year ago

Hello,

I have the option to buy a project Street Fighter pinball machine. It is complete but a lot of wires has been cut. Is there anybody who has restored a Street Fighter pinball ans has a shop out file with a lot of pictures to share? Thanks in advance .

#1355 1 year ago

Check it out, even has the machine in a picture!

https://www.reebok.com/us/street_fighter

1 week later
3 weeks later
#1357 1 year ago

Haha didnt expect to see myself here today
But thanks for the share, if it can help anyone anytime in the future then those hours of filming was worth it.
I actually had to rewatch it myself lately to see how much work it was to get the right VUK, removing the ramp and plastics.

1 week later
#1358 1 year ago

Having a issue with the car crah flipper not working. Have 73v going to the coil. Coil oms out fine. Q24 test good. F26 is good. Coil 23 will not respond in test mode. And flipper will ot engage in play mode. Any help will be appreciated.

#1359 1 year ago

I mold replacement crash cars.

20210611_144005 (resized).jpg20210611_144005 (resized).jpg20210611_144033 (resized).jpg20210611_144033 (resized).jpg
#1360 1 year ago

Selling if anybody is looking......
SFII...100% Fully Working player....
Alt translite and mini lcd arcade mod installed...
$2500
Thank you.........Joey

1 week later
#1361 1 year ago

Hey guys,

Looking to replace the little square rubbers which stop the ball in the ramps before dropping back to the playfields.

My machine currently only has one on the left ramp, and from what i can see its a small see through rubber square.

Wondering if anyone knows where i can buy these from so i can put some fresh ones in?

Thanks
Scott

1 week later
#1364 1 year ago

Just recently replaced a fuse that finally got my ramps working so that they raise and lower themselves. Now I'm noticing an issue when hitting the Sagat target (left ramp in raised position): the ball tends to have too much momentum and skips right over the sinkhole, thus not triggering having defeated Sagat. Any ideas?

#1365 1 year ago

Still looking for a SF2 playfield. I actually have funds now. Doesnt have to be perfect or anything. Trying to make an altered layout for this game to open it up more and make it flow. I have a ton of ideas for shots and code. Let me know what you got!

#1366 1 year ago
Quoted from Malenko:

Just get a Pin2DMD , game is already colorized and everything.

Can you point me in the right direction for the Pin2DMD mod and what files to use and how to load them, thanks

#1367 1 year ago

Does anyone know where to get the apron decals in this photo?

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#1368 1 year ago
Quoted from Bennyv07:

Can you point me in the right direction for the Pin2DMD mod and what files to use and how to load them, thanks

I don't know who sells them, but I colored this game and the files have been and always will be free. I just dont know how much longer I'll be hosting them.
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/11943h3wAwrh8SlF1gQAbhrwO-F3bt_X0

#1369 1 year ago
Quoted from Malenko:

I don't know who sells them, but I colored this game and the files have been and always will be free. I just dont know how much longer I'll be hosting them.
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/11943h3wAwrh8SlF1gQAbhrwO-F3bt_X0

Thanks brother. I found one off Retrocity in Australia. Their service preloads the Pin2Dmd for you, but it’s nice to have the og files as a backup. Your hard work is Much appreciated.

1 week later
#1370 1 year ago

Still trying to figure out why my Sagat shot isn't quite working as it should. On a full speed, accurate shot, the ball skips over the sinkhole at least 90% off the time. I'm starting to wonder if the cliffy protectors that the previous owner installed might be part of it. Maybe it's smoothing out that part a little more than what was intended, causing the ball to sail right over it?

Can someone without the protectors installed on that sinkhole take a closeup pic by so I can compare what it looks like to my current setup?

Thanks for any help!

1 week later
#1371 1 year ago

If anyone is in need of spare parts. Saw this posted on Facebook today.

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#1372 1 year ago
Quoted from kevster:

Still trying to figure out why my Sagat shot isn't quite working as it should. On a full speed, accurate shot, the ball skips over the sinkhole at least 90% off the time. I'm starting to wonder if the cliffy protectors that the previous owner installed might be part of it. Maybe it's smoothing out that part a little more than what was intended, causing the ball to sail right over it?

It’s 100% the Cliffy protectors. I just installed the protectors on mine and I’m having the exact same issue. Never happened before installing them.

3 weeks later
#1373 1 year ago

New member to the club. Seems like a great game so far.

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#1374 1 year ago

OOOOoooo I like that branded lock down bar. Sexy.

#1375 1 year ago
Quoted from Bazza:

It’s 100% the Cliffy protectors. I just installed the protectors on mine and I’m having the exact same issue. Never happened before installing them.

Thanks for confirming. That's a bummer. You thinking you're going to uninstall that one or just deal with it? I'm trying to decide...

#1376 1 year ago
Quoted from ClassicTAB:

New member to the club. Seems like a great game so far.
[quoted image]

Welcome to the club! It's a great game. I love it. Glad you're enjoying it

2 weeks later
#1377 1 year ago
Quoted from kevster:

Thanks for confirming. That's a bummer. You thinking you're going to uninstall that one or just deal with it? I'm trying to decide...

I’ll either take it off completely or take it off and maybe try and increase the inside diameter of the protector so the ball still hits the exposed bevel of the playfield hole. Just a pain having to remove everything to get to it again.

1 week later
#1378 1 year ago

Malenko Is it fairly easy to edit the Pin2dmd files? I love the colorization and animations you made, but there are a few elements I would love to clean up a bit. Like, the Losing Faces after beating a Fighter, i want to edit them to look more like the video games plus the Ken & Ryu shot when the fireworks go off… I’d like to mess around with that a bit and add some color. Thanks.

1 month later
#1379 10 months ago
Quoted from Bennyv07:

Malenko Is it fairly easy to edit the Pin2dmd files? I love the colorization and animations you made, but there are a few elements I would love to clean up a bit. Like, the Losing Faces after beating a Fighter, i want to edit them to look more like the video games plus the Ken & Ryu shot when the fireworks go off… I’d like to mess around with that a bit and add some color. Thanks.

source files are there for you to poke around with. i cant say if it'll be easy for you or not, some people are more adept than others. Faces look the way they do because its a dynamic scene (fighters remaining count varies) and at the time I was very limited on colors. new versions give you more colors to work with. I look forward to seeing what you can do.

#1380 10 months ago

Question, last night a ball got stuck behind the left ramp and it did not do a ball search. I kind of remember it has done this before and it did a ball search and the ramp lifted to release the ball. I thought it might be a one time thing so I slid the glass down and removed the ball. Several minutes later it did it again and no ball search, thoughts?

3 months later
#1381 6 months ago

Hi guys! brand new member here and mine is certainly going to need some exterior work!!!!! wowzers. but the gameplay works pretty well.. almost. I cant get my flipper in the lower playfield to do anything at all. I got a new 2 amp fuse for it and did my best to trace the wires and everything seems reasonable. I'm curious if there is a way to test it in the test menu. I was able to pretty much test every other solenoid besides that one. It doesn't really have a name in the test menu that I can find. I tried it during gameplay though and got nothing. My lower playfield is also missing the car so my plan is to really get in there and take the playfield apart and poke around but i was curious if I could test it in the test menu. I would think the right flipper normally operates it right?

#1382 6 months ago
Quoted from Sirgubster9:

Hi guys! brand new member here and mine is certainly going to need some exterior work!!!!! wowzers. but the gameplay works pretty well.. almost. I cant get my flipper in the lower playfield to do anything at all. I got a new 2 amp fuse for it and did my best to trace the wires and everything seems reasonable. I'm curious if there is a way to test it in the test menu. I was able to pretty much test every other solenoid besides that one. It doesn't really have a name in the test menu that I can find. I tried it during gameplay though and got nothing. My lower playfield is also missing the car so my plan is to really get in there and take the playfield apart and poke around but i was curious if I could test it in the test menu. I would think the right flipper normally operates it right?

Under the playfield is "Relay S" that sends power to the lower playfield flipper. It's operated by solenoid 23. Check to make sure that's operating, the switch blades might just be dirty or bent.

#1383 6 months ago
Quoted from latenite04:

Under the playfield is "Relay S" that sends power to the lower playfield flipper. It's operated by solenoid 23. Check to make sure that's operating, the switch blades might just be dirty or bent.

switch blades look good. Solenoid 23; I dont remember seeing that in the relay and solenoid test menu option. but Ill go back and check again. Now for "relay s" what the crap is that? and how does one make sure its getting power? My original plan was going to use my multi meter and put it on the coil of the flipper. but am i missing something?

#1384 6 months ago
Quoted from latenite04:

Under the playfield is "Relay S" that sends power to the lower playfield flipper. It's operated by solenoid 23. Check to make sure that's operating, the switch blades might just be dirty or bent.

Found the relay s! Thank you. When I test it in the test menu it does work. Now any ideas what I can do next to get flipper underneath working?

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#1385 6 months ago
Quoted from Sirgubster9:

Found the relay s! Thank you. When I test it in the test menu it does work. Now any ideas what I can do next to get flipper underneath working?
[quoted image][quoted image]

Pinside_forum_7848151_0 (resized).jpgPinside_forum_7848151_0 (resized).jpg
Use your multimeter on the switch lugs at 1 to test for continuity when you move the white plate to close the relay switch. You said you checked the switch contacts but I'm not sure if you meant the flipper button switch or this one on the relay, this is the one I thought might need to be cleaned. You can also check for continuity between the switch and the flipper lug to make sure there isn't a wire issue between the two. With the machine on you should be able to measure 48v at that switch.

Pinside_forum_7848151_1 (resized).jpgPinside_forum_7848151_1 (resized).jpg
3 should be the connector for the flipper. Check to make sure none of the wires/pins are broken and unclip/clip it a few times to make sure you get a good connection in case it has oxidized over time. Have you made sure the flipper plunger moves manually and isn't seized?

#1386 6 months ago

I've been playing my SF2 a LOT lately. I just cannot complete the wizard mode for some reason. Really, really want to beat it! I told myself that once I complete Champion Challenge, then I can really dig into just getting a high score. Think the closest I've gotten is defeating 8 or 9 fighters in CC. I know I'll get there.

Also, I'm wondering which shot folks consider to be the toughest in the game. I hear people say the Guile shot quite a bit, but that one doesn't tend to give me much trouble. Personally, I really struggle to hit the Ken/Ryu shot with any kind of consistency.

What about all of you? Most difficult shot? Have you beaten wizard mode?

#1387 6 months ago
Quoted from kevster:

I've been playing my SF2 a LOT lately. I just cannot complete the wizard mode for some reason. Really, really want to beat it! I told myself that once I complete Champion Challenge, then I can really dig into just getting a high score. Think the closest I've gotten is defeating 8 or 9 fighters in CC. I know I'll get there.
Also, I'm wondering which shot folks consider to be the toughest in the game. I hear people say the Guile shot quite a bit, but that one doesn't tend to give me much trouble. Personally, I really struggle to hit the Ken/Ryu shot with any kind of consistency.
What about all of you? Most difficult shot? Have you beaten wizard mode?

Ive done it 2-3 times, but Ive had my game for a long ass time, lol. I did both of them pretty drunk at the end of xmas parties. The hardest shots for me are the chun li and the guile shots. I tweaked my guile shot to be smoother, but it still rejects without speed. Good times!

#1388 6 months ago

Just had something strange happen:

I was on my second ball, just needed the Chun Li shot to enter Champion Challenge. Then suddenly, the game thought I'd hit the shot, the flippers froze for the wizard mode intro, draining the ball. After the intro, the game ended wizard mode because of the drain, and proceeded to ball 3.

No idea what made the game think I hit the shot. I don't even think it hit an actual switch when it entered CC mode. Maybe bounced off the slings or a stand up target. But it was no where near the Chun Li switch. Bizarre.

#1389 6 months ago
Quoted from latenite04:

[quoted image]
Use your multimeter on the switch lugs at 1 to test for continuity when you move the white plate to close the relay switch. You said you checked the switch contacts but I'm not sure if you meant the flipper button switch or this one on the relay, this is the one I thought might need to be cleaned. You can also check for continuity between the switch and the flipper lug to make sure there isn't a wire issue between the two. With the machine on you should be able to measure 48v at that switch.
[quoted image]
3 should be the connector for the flipper. Check to make sure none of the wires/pins are broken and unclip/clip it a few times to make sure you get a good connection in case it has oxidized over time. Have you made sure the flipper plunger moves manually and isn't seized?

Quoted from latenite04:

[quoted image]
Use your multimeter on the switch lugs at 1 to test for continuity when you move the white plate to close the relay switch. You said you checked the switch contacts but I'm not sure if you meant the flipper button switch or this one on the relay, this is the one I thought might need to be cleaned. You can also check for continuity between the switch and the flipper lug to make sure there isn't a wire issue between the two. With the machine on you should be able to measure 48v at that switch.
[quoted image]
3 should be the connector for the flipper. Check to make sure none of the wires/pins are broken and unclip/clip it a few times to make sure you get a good connection in case it has oxidized over time. Have you made sure the flipper plunger moves manually and isn't seized?

Hi thanks for info and pics and labels!!! Confirmed continuity at 1 when I press the flipper relay 23.

Where am I supposed to check for 48v exactly?

Plunger is not seized, it moves freely when I mess with it.

When I use the test menu and press start at solenoid 23 should the flipper in the car crunch area go up and down?

Please continue to help me if you can. Also I received your email and I greatly appreciate it. Thank you. The quality was significantly better than mine.

#1390 6 months ago
Quoted from Sirgubster9:

Hi thanks for info and pics and labels!!! Confirmed continuity at 1 when I press the flipper relay 23.
Where am I supposed to check for 48v exactly?
Plunger is not seized, it moves freely when I mess with it.
When I use the test menu and press start at solenoid 23 should the flipper in the car crunch area go up and down?
Please continue to help me if you can. Also I received your email and I greatly appreciate it. Thank you. The quality was significantly better than mine.

48v should be going to one side of the switch that gets activated by solenoid 23, when that switch closes it sends power through to the car flipper.

The test for solenoid 23 activates that coil closing the switch, if you press the right flipper button just after activating the coil the car flipper should flip once before the test menu moves on to the next option.

Here's the old thread about a similar issue with the car flipper, maybe something in there can help: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/street-fighter-ii-car-flipper

#1391 6 months ago
Quoted from kevster:

I've been playing my SF2 a LOT lately. I just cannot complete the wizard mode for some reason. Really, really want to beat it! I told myself that once I complete Champion Challenge, then I can really dig into just getting a high score. Think the closest I've gotten is defeating 8 or 9 fighters in CC. I know I'll get there.
Also, I'm wondering which shot folks consider to be the toughest in the game. I hear people say the Guile shot quite a bit, but that one doesn't tend to give me much trouble. Personally, I really struggle to hit the Ken/Ryu shot with any kind of consistency.
What about all of you? Most difficult shot? Have you beaten wizard mode?

Once you beat Champion Challenge you will be well on your way to a high score, the 500 million bonus for that and the 300 million repeatable final jackpot for multiball rack up the points.
I think Ken/Ryu is the most frustrating because you can't trap and aim but Chun Li is the risky one for me with a chance of sdtm if it doesn't go.

Quoted from kevster:

Just had something strange happen:
I was on my second ball, just needed the Chun Li shot to enter Champion Challenge. Then suddenly, the game thought I'd hit the shot, the flippers froze for the wizard mode intro, draining the ball. After the intro, the game ended wizard mode because of the drain, and proceeded to ball 3.
No idea what made the game think I hit the shot. I don't even think it hit an actual switch when it entered CC mode. Maybe bounced off the slings or a stand up target. But it was no where near the Chun Li switch. Bizarre.

This sounds like what happens when you have bad/cracked solder joints on the opto boards for the ramp switches. Vibrations will set off phantom hits. If you put it in switch test mode and wiggle some wires you might see the ramp switches being triggered. You usually just have to reflow the solder on the opto transmitter/receiver boards.

#1392 6 months ago
Quoted from latenite04:

48v should be going to one side of the switch that gets activated by solenoid 23, when that switch closes it sends power through to the car flipper.
The test for solenoid 23 activates that coil closing the switch, if you press the right flipper button just after activating the coil the car flipper should flip once before the test menu moves on to the next option.
Here's the old thread about a similar issue with the car flipper, maybe something in there can help: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/street-fighter-ii-car-flipper

Thanks for link, his fix was super easy. Just thing wasn't making contact. I am getting no voltage from switch I don't think. Any thoughts what to look into next?

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#1393 6 months ago
Quoted from latenite04:

This sounds like what happens when you have bad/cracked solder joints on the opto boards for the ramp switches. Vibrations will set off phantom hits. If you put it in switch test mode and wiggle some wires you might see the ramp switches being triggered. You usually just have to reflow the solder on the opto transmitter/receiver boards.

Excellent. Thank you for this

#1394 6 months ago
Quoted from Sirgubster9:

Thanks for link, his fix was super easy. Just thing wasn't making contact. I am getting no voltage from switch I don't think. Any thoughts what to look into next?
[quoted image][quoted image]

The voltage on one side of that switch should be 48v, use the flipper coil ground as the other half of the circuit. Those two wires are the same line and just get connected when solenoid 23 fires. Is your coin door open when you are testing? Do you have the high voltage interlock switch at the coin door pulled out?

Did you try testing solenoid 23 followed by the right flipper button to see if you get a flipper pulse?

#1395 6 months ago
Quoted from latenite04:

The voltage on one side of that switch should be 48v, use the flipper coil ground as the other half of the circuit. Those two wires are the same line and just get connected when solenoid 23 fires. Is your coin door open when you are testing? Do you have the high voltage interlock switch at the coin door pulled out?
Did you try testing solenoid 23 followed by the right flipper button to see if you get a flipper pulse?

I'm still confused on where to test to figure out if im getting 48 volt.

My coin door is open when I'm doing the testing. And the high voltage interlock may be pulled out. I will confirm that I have the high voltage interlock pushed in before measure voltage again.

I did Try testing solenoid 23 followed by the right flipper and I got no flipper pulse at all, completely dead. I also during game play have gotten to the car crunch many times and every time it basically Just feels dead down there.

#1396 6 months ago
Quoted from Sirgubster9:

I'm still confused on where to test to figure out if im getting 48 volt.
My coin door is open when I'm doing the testing. And the high voltage interlock may be pulled out. I will confirm that I have the high voltage interlock pushed in before measure voltage again.
I did Try testing solenoid 23 followed by the right flipper and I got no flipper pulse at all, completely dead. I also during game play have gotten to the car crunch many times and every time it basically Just feels dead down there.

The high voltage interlock has three positions, pushed in ( This allows high voltage when the coin door is closed ), out ( When the coin door is open this cuts off high voltage ), and a testing position where you pull the plunger on the switch out even further ( This allows you to test high voltage items with the coin door open ).

The Red/Orange/Orange wire should have 48v, use that as the positive on your multimeter and use something like the braided ground strap as the ground side, that voltage should be coming from the transformer through the F26 fuse to the switch at solenoid 23. If you are not getting voltage at that switch start working your way back to the fuse and see if you have voltage there.
Pinside_forum_7860116_0 (resized).jpgPinside_forum_7860116_0 (resized).jpg
flipper diagram (resized).pngflipper diagram (resized).png

If you are getting voltage the next thing I would check is the coil to see if it has a broken wire or internal short.
A-26646 GOTTLIEB LARGE 4.57 Ohms/201.0 Ohms 25/33 725/3470 Blue Flipper Coil

#1397 6 months ago
Quoted from latenite04:

The high voltage interlock has three positions, pushed in ( This allows high voltage when the coin door is closed ), out ( When the coin door is open this cuts off high voltage ), and a testing position where you pull the plunger on the switch out even further ( This allows you to test high voltage items with the coin door open ).
The Red/Orange/Orange wire should have 48v, use that as the positive on your multimeter and use something like the braided ground strap as the ground side, that voltage should be coming from the transformer through the F26 fuse to the switch at solenoid 23. If you are not getting voltage at that switch start working your way back to the fuse and see if you have voltage there.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
If you are getting voltage the next thing I would check is the coil to see if it has a broken wire or internal short.
A-26646 GOTTLIEB LARGE 4.57 Ohms/201.0 Ohms 25/33 725/3470 Blue Flipper Coil

OK we are getting somewhere my friend. All thanks to you. Thanks for walking me through it. I do have 48v dc and then some using the multimeter at that switch. I checked the coil and I can't see anything wrong with it. I have an extra coil from another game I believe and I was thinking I could hook that up to see if it's the coil. Is there something I can test with the multi meter closer to the coil to see if the power is actually getting all the way to the coil?
Also if I where to swap in a new coil I would need to resolder 4 wires I believe plus like a weird diode thing...is that diode necessary? And I assume they sell those at Marco pinball or wherever?

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#1398 6 months ago
Quoted from Sirgubster9:

OK we are getting somewhere my friend. All thanks to you. Thanks for walking me through it. I do have 48v dc and then some using the multimeter at that switch. I checked the coil and I can't see anything wrong with it. I have an extra coil from another game I believe and I was thinking I could hook that up to see if it's the coil. Is there something I can test with the multi meter closer to the coil to see if the power is actually getting all the way to the coil?
Also if I where to swap in a new coil I would need to resolder 4 wires I believe plus like a weird diode thing...is that diode necessary? And I assume they sell those at Marco pinball or wherever?
[quoted image]

Pinside_forum_7868980_0 (resized).jpgPinside_forum_7868980_0 (resized).jpg
Use a rubber band or some tape to hold the switch at the S relay closed and you should get 48v all the way at the coil on lugs 1 and 2. The power comes in at 1 and then through the eos switch and that yellow capacitor to 2.

If you set your multimeter to ohms and measure between 1 and 3 you should see a reading around 4.5. Between 2 and 3 should be around 200. If you see numbers largely outside of those readings you probably have a short, if you don't see any reading you might have a broken coil wire at one of the lugs.

Flipper Schematic (resized).jpgFlipper Schematic (resized).jpg
If you have power at the coil and the ohms look ok it's time to start tracing down the return side of the wiring harness. Test continuity from lug 3 to the connector. and from the other side of the connector back to the A15 sensor board.

If you have power at the coil you should be able to run a jumper wire between the return side of your right flipper and the return side of your lower flipper, they share a return in the schematic. If that works there might be an issue with the A15 board.

1 week later
#1399 5 months ago
Quoted from latenite04:

[quoted image]
Use a rubber band or some tape to hold the switch at the S relay closed and you should get 48v all the way at the coil on lugs 1 and 2. The power comes in at 1 and then through the eos switch and that yellow capacitor to 2.
If you set your multimeter to ohms and measure between 1 and 3 you should see a reading around 4.5. Between 2 and 3 should be around 200. If you see numbers largely outside of those readings you probably have a short, if you don't see any reading you might have a broken coil wire at one of the lugs.
[quoted image]
If you have power at the coil and the ohms look ok it's time to start tracing down the return side of the wiring harness. Test continuity from lug 3 to the connector. and from the other side of the connector back to the A15 sensor board.
If you have power at the coil you should be able to run a jumper wire between the return side of your right flipper and the return side of your lower flipper, they share a return in the schematic. If that works there might be an issue with the A15 board.

you are the man and a legend in my eyes!!!! thank you! it was a busted coil, i have never had a completely dead coil before; its always at least did something. replaced it and we are running sweet now, thanks again!

#1400 5 months ago
Quoted from Sirgubster9:

you are the man and a legend in my eyes!!!! thank you! it was a busted coil, i have never had a completely dead coil before; its always at least did something. replaced it and we are running sweet now, thanks again!

I'm glad you got it sorted out. Enjoy playing your game.

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