I’m looking for new leg bolt plates for my Gottlieb system 3s. I see Marco’s has some that fit Sega/Stern/Data East. Anybody know if they will fit Gottlieb too? Or know where I can find a set for Gottlieb? Didn’t see any on their site.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/535-7394-00

I would think those would fit but this is the style that's on the system 3.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-9296

Any one local to me with a sf2 and a rom burner? Need to re burn my sound roms.

If you find a burner near by I've got the rom files.

Put a SF2 on location for the 3rd time!

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Rescue 911 speaker panel?

If someone wants a lit Ryu for over the pop bumper I have one listed in the marketplace.
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Hello all!

I have an issue with my car reset... It does not work after the car has been pushed beyond the winner insert. It looks like the coil is not powerful enough to "pull" the little plate (no "click" can be heard). However when it's in an "already reset" state, you can here the plate clicking (when starting up the game or when testing solenoid). Basically when there is no load, the coil has no problem pulling the plate, but when fully loaded it does not work...

I hope I'm clear

Any idea?

I fixed it... Yeah!

So, for anyone with the same type of issue in the future (and maybe it's common knowledge but I did not know about it), here is the solution.

The "car reset" solenoid (small orange one under the sub-playfield assembly) is mounted with 2 screws/bolts on its sides. The position of the solenoid can be finely adjusted if these 2 screws are loosened. I managed to put the solenoid closer to the little metal plate. It has to be close to it, but it should not touch it... and it worked! When it's close to the plate, the amount of energy needed to pull it is smaller. "Car reset" is now working every time.

Finally 100% working and clean... I'm quite happy with the result!
and thanks Malenko and stpcore for an awesome alternate translite...
next step... pin2dmd!

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Lookin good. Part of me wants to go back and recolor and redo some pin2DMD stuff. Like make the defeated fighter screens replacement scenes with redrawn sprites, you'll lose the "8 fighters remaining" part but the grphics would be much improved. The Vega shot not always triggering has also bothered me.

I really do miss my SF2 pin

Im still waiting to get a pin 2 dmd till you make it right, lol!

Bought one of these machines a couple days ago, really looking forward to seeing and playing one.

Loving the game so far, but the day i got it the car stopped resetting.
It will reset manually in switch test but takes 4 or 5 goes to do so. Then plays a couple games before getting stuck again.
A mate suggested i lube the mechanism, but i am always wary of putting any wet lube near my machines.
Does anyone have an idea where to start?

Do not add lube! Look at my post a bit earlier (#1159), it may be due to the small reset solenoid not being strong enough to pull the metal plate. By adjusting its location, you can make it closer to the plate, and it may fix your problem.

Thanks mate, read the whole thread while i was waiting for the machine but forgot about your post.

You'reaChampPunkin

Got one being delivered next week. Excited. I grew up having this game at my parent's house back in the mid 90's. Planning to do a lite restore / top side tear down on it. I already know I need to find some plastics. Posting this here if you guys have any leads on a set. Thanks!

SOLD!

Parts - Wanted

ISO: Street Fighter II Plastic Set or Loose Pieces Archived

Wanted! - “Ideally NOS full set but the two pieces I really need are: Lower Right flipper feeder lane ball guide plastic "Turn Punch" right balrog / m bison hole plastic”

2020-05-15

Pasadena, CA

Time

Wanted

Archived after: 43 days

Viewed: 114 times

Status: Sold (amount undisclosed)

Just picked up a sf2, and looking for a replacement car, original or new design is fine, along as the price makes sense. Marco's is out of stock.

Would someone be willing to loan me their playfield window in order to make drawings of it? I can then make repros of them for anyone that wants them. I would only need it a day or two, and then mail it back to you with a prototype of the new one for test fitting. The donor gets the new window for free

This is the one I just did for Bad Girls:

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Is the machine suppossed to give end of ball bonuses? Mine doesn't is all.

If you're doing vacuum forming, ever consider making aprons? I just ordered a used one but seems like they're not super available. Unless I missed something after my searching late last night. Or repo plastics? Could really use a few plastic pieces from my post above.

In other news, I'm currently in search of used SF2 lockbar for a good price. Need one for a modification and I don't want to mess up a nice one if at all possible.

Aprons would be a pretty big undertaking for me. Right now I am only taking on select projects...mainly ramps.

maximum size?

Can cover about 90% of the ramps out there. But I am not taking on any more ramp projects at this time...I'm loaded up at the moment.

I have a spare one, PM me if interested

Make this happen gentlemen!

It's happening

Any help with this?

There is noe end of ball bonus in the game, EXCEPT the points earned in TORPEDO multiball. All the points earned in this multiball is given in bonus, so DONT tilt

Thanks mate, at least i know it's not a fault now.

Count me in as a happy customer if this comes through to fruition!!!

Anyone running the premium speaker upgrade? #PSS-SW-5V from Marco? How is it? Does this mean you only have a speaker on one side instead of large on left and tweeter on right? What's your thoughts on this upgrade?

Reference: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/PSS-SW-5V

Anyone have some custom instruction cards they would like to share?

Im a little confused how the Ready Set Shoot thing is suppose to work. I shoot when she says "shoot" but its always way way off. I have to wait a good 1 second after she says shoot to hit the center. Do you all experience this?

Bout half a second on mine. You then have to hit the bracelet quickly to collect.

Just see where you hit, if its early, wait a little longer, if its late, shoot earlier.

You dont shoot the moment she says shoot, or you'll never get a bullseye.

Anyone have the most recent version of the ROM they can send me? I can burn IC myself.

Thanks

PM me

Every game is a little different. All depends on how strong the spring is still,’how far you pull back, etc. I find its a little after she says shoot as well.

Ok this is common. I was just wondering if I had the wrong shooter spring or game angle. It just feels weird to to hear here say SHOOT and then wait almost a second to release. I'm thinking of how Data East JP you have that tiny time window to pull the trigger right as the game shows "FIRE". This is just kind of different from game to game.

Hey all, I received a bin full of SFII playfield parts from a friend. He bought a populated playfield but wanted a wall hanger. Stripped it and put the parts aside. I'm building a home brew game so he gave me the box of parts to use in my build. If anyone here is looking for any specific parts let me know. I'll give you a good deal. Open to parts trades as well.

Hey guys just curious what everyone uses to move there pinball machines when needed, I saw a couple things online and was curious what would be the best thing to use to move a pinball up an down stairs and just in general? Saw a modified harbor freight hydraulic cart and someone straps it to it

I have a hydraulic lift trolley, but it doesn't do steps (i don't have any).

Just joined the club this past weekend! This is my first pin, so I'm currently experiencing the huge learning curve when switching from arcade games to pinball. It works.. mostly.. but there's some things I need to figure out. I'm hoping everyone here that has a SF2 pin specifically can help answer some of my questions!

First, there's some bulbs out... probably about 12 or so. I already ordered an LED kit on eBay, should be here next week.. so I'll get to replace those.

In the self test, there's some switches that are showing closed... I'm not 100% sure what that means, but it sounds like it means they're always active.. For example the "car win" one is one of them. There's no car at all (i just got a friend to 3d print one though), but as soon as you go into that mode, the winner lights up and you get credit for beating it. The flipper never moves, but all lights down there seem to work. Is that closed switch an actual problem, or is there something that's telling it there's no car so don't do the minigame? I also noticed the left bumper by the left flipper (not sure the official name) only works once out of every 10 times or so.. other than that the ball is just bouncing off of the rubber band a little bit. Are these types of things easy for a novice to fix?

Also, sometimes the right flipper button sticks. It's not the right flipper, just the button. When you're playing and hit the button hard, sometimes the flipper will stick, but I see the same behavior in test modes, when the flipper isn't even in use. (When using it to scroll through the bookkeeping or test menus or whatever, it'll scroll forever until you smack the button a few times to get it to stop.) Think that's just a microswitch replacement issue?

Another issue is that the plastic sheet over the car area is bubbling a little bit at the bottom, which seems to be causing some ball trajectory problems. Is that something I can peel off and be fine? Or should I replace it? (Where/How?) Or is it something that I should just keep as-is? It causes a lot of balls to go right down the middle unfortunately.

Also, and this is probably a configuration issue.. I've looked over the monitor but haven't found what I'm doing wrong. I've got it on free play, and it says that tournament mode is the easiest way to have it on free play. But I've noticed that if you're in the middle of a game and someone hits the start button (looking at you, 4 year old son), the game will reset and start over. Is that normal behavior? Is there a better configuration I should have to allow for free play but not allow games to be reset at any time?

I'm getting close to the end here, I promise I can never hit the chun-li or zangief ramps. I've come close a few times but just can't do it. The previous owner (who only owned it for about a week) said that the flipper rubbers need to be replaced. I don't see any obvious damage to them, but could this be the problem? Will new rubbers cause balls to move further/faster?

Last problem!! The translite lock didn't come with a key... checked everywhere unfortunately. So I've started drilling out that lock, but I've had very little luck so far. I think it's due to the angle you have to drill at.. but so far I've broken about 6 titanium bits of various sizes (mostly the really small ones, probably snapping due to the angle). Anyone have any other advice other than to just keep at it?

If you read this far I appreciate it greatly. Like I said this is my first pin, I think I got a pretty good deal on it, and I'm a huge Street Fighter fan so I'm happy with this.. I just want to make it better.

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Welcome to the club and pinside. The car crunch win is an optical switch at the back of the mini playfield. It looks like the car plunger on your machine is all the way back which would break the beam and trigger that switch. The switch is probably working but it seems like you have a car reset issue, the plunger should move forward when the lower playfield is activated. Check to see if the return springs are broken or stretched. You can manually reset the plunger by moving the release plate.

The switches on the slingshot above the left flipper probably just need to be adjusted, bent closer together, or cleaned. The contacts should touch when a ball bounces off the rubber ring. You can run a business card or points file between the contacts to clean them.

Take your flipper button out and check to see if it moves freely, they get gummed up. You might just need to clean it or get a new one.

For the window if it's just the vinyl sticker that is bubbled you can peal it off and cut some new vinyl to replace it, if the plastic is damaged jodyg was making replacements. There are nuts under the playfield that let you adjust the window to get the edges flush with the wood.

If you can't make the ramp shots you probably need to do a flipper clean/rebuild.

Try taking the screws out of the translite lock plate, they are probably torx or security torx. I think that gives you enough wiggle room to get the lock or translite out.

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Window replacement: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1188-ramp-o-matic/03358-gottlieb-street-fighter-ii-replacement-playfield-window

latenite04 thank you for a ton of great information! I'm going to see if I can get a look at the car plunger tonight. Is it fairly simple to remove the entire housing like you have in the picture there? I've worked on my arcade games before, but I'm really cautious about doing something on a pin that would mess something up. The piece that's coming up on the window is just the (i guess) vinyl sticker that's protecting it.. you can see it somewhat in my third pic, right above the second "E" in "Street". Is there a good place to order a replacement sticker for, or even a sheet that is recommended that I could size/cut myself?

Taking the mini playfield off isn't too hard it's just 4 screws. You should be able to make a replacement sticker out of the adhesive vinyl sheets that they sell at craft stores or they guy who sells the replacement window was making them, reach out to him and see if he's going to make more.

Thank you! I got your PM but as my account is less than 48 hours old, I can't reply yet. How do you run yours? In free-play? If so, how do you get around having the start button resetting the game? Or is that even possible?

Sending out a call again: Does any one have or have the ability to read/copy the rom files from their sound chips?

Still looking for a donor window to make an exact repro from if anyone has one I can borrow. Doesn't even need to be perfect, I just don't want to make one off rough measurements and have it not fit.