(Topic ID: 97724)

Street Fighter club, all welcome.....ready, set, shoot!

By Damon

7 years ago


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  • 1,344 posts
  • 132 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by Robotworkshop
  • Topic is favorited by 36 Pinsiders

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There are 1,344 posts in this topic. You are on page 20 of 27.
#951 3 years ago

Been a couple months since I worked on the car.. Been going back and forth. Thought about spending the $150 on a good 3D model of an LS400, but even then there's no guarantee the model would be useful to me (and I would still have to scale it, add all the features to make it work in the game, etc). I updated my model the best of my skills #modelingishard. I'd like to add more detail, but I question how much of that is going to show up in the print. I think it looks decent but looking for everyone's feedback.

pasted_image (resized).png
#952 3 years ago

So I rebuilt the flipper today and I can hit the Chun-li shot stationary again (yay)! However, I'm running into some issues. The flipper seems to be giving off more of a spark than I would like when I hit the button (not sure if that is normal or not). Also, the solenoid coil seems to be getting warm/hotter to the touch. The coil doesn't heat up unless I am actively using / holding down the button. But just holding down the button alone does seem to slowly heat the coil. My assumption is this means the high-voltage isn't switching to low voltage when I hold down but I've adjusted the EOS switch a lot and adjusted my solder jobs / verified the wiring and everything looks ok to me. I turned the machine off for now before I end up with a bad coil or something else. Anyone have any ideas on what this might be? I did replace pretty much everything in this rebuild (coil, eos switch, brackets, screws, etc).

Video of sparking and eos switch gap on hold-down here:
https://vimeo.com/user88784683/review/286634810/6bfab697cc

A couple images below. The second one I tried to show the side view of the eos switch cap's solder job but it is a bit blurry.

20180824_200106 (resized).jpg20180824_200113 (resized).jpg

Added over 4 years ago:

Updated video link: https://vimeo.com/286634810

#953 3 years ago
Quoted from toyotaboy:

Been a couple months since I worked on the car.. Been going back and forth. Thought about spending the $150 on a good 3D model of an LS400, but even then there's no guarantee the model would be useful to me (and I would still have to scale it, add all the features to make it work in the game, etc). I updated my model the best of my skills #modelingishard. I'd like to add more detail, but I question how much of that is going to show up in the print. I think it looks decent but looking for everyone's feedback.[quoted image]

I think it looks pretty solid IMO. Definitely would buy something 3d printed to replace my car crush hack job I did .

#954 3 years ago
Quoted from Hvyarms:

I think it looks pretty solid IMO. Definitely would buy something 3d printed to replace my car crush hack job I did

Cool.. Printed the main body tonight, still have to get the other pieces made (tail lenses, wheels, bottom bracket), then paint and clear. I'll post photos when I get it done, then it's getting shipped to the beta tester for photos.

#955 3 years ago

Update: I think I'm in good enough shape now. My chun-li is hit-able again and I have it so that the arcing is no more (although the solenoid is still a little warm after some play - not too hot though). I ended up replacing the EOS switch back to my old EOS switch and it solved the arcing issue. My guess is the cap on the newer switch I bought was bad or maybe something else on the switch was too strong - not sure (but the arcing in the video seemed too excessive to me). I've had some bad luck with parts from Marcos not sure if that is a common thing or if I'm just unlucky.

#956 3 years ago
Quoted from Hvyarms:

Update: I think I'm in good enough shape now. My chun-li is hit-able again and I have it so that the arcing is no more (although the solenoid is still a little warm after some play - not too hot though). I ended up replacing the EOS switch back to my old EOS switch and it solved the arcing issue. My guess is the cap on the newer switch I bought was bad or maybe something else on the switch was too strong - not sure (but the arcing in the video seemed too excessive to me). I've had some bad luck with parts from Marcos not sure if that is a common thing or if I'm just unlucky.

Take a look at this. If the EOS is too close it'll stay charged.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/street-fighter-2-over-heating-coil

1 week later
#957 3 years ago
Quoted from toyotaboy:

Cool.. Printed the main body tonight, still have to get the other pieces made (tail lenses, wheels, bottom bracket), then paint and clear. I'll post photos when I get it done, then it's getting shipped to the beta tester for photos.

Thanks for all the effort. Keep us posted because... you know...

takemymoney[1] (resized).jpg
#958 3 years ago
Quoted from smitherssp:

Thanks for all the effort. Keep us posted because.

Beta tester has the model (just arrived there today, mail is slow). I'll post something as soon as he installs it (or he may post on here)

2 weeks later
#959 3 years ago

Been rather quiet in here so I thought I'd come and plug a product. Finally got around to dealing with the now 25 year old battery in my Street Fighter. Shockingly, it was keeping charge without issue... but regardless of coin cell leakage being rare - a 25 year old battery doesn't help me sleep well at night.

Anyway - I tossed a Pinitech NVRAM (snagged some classic Stern displays and threw one on my order). The RAM isn't socketed and you have to remove the DALLAS chip then solder two short wire bridges in its place, but otherwise it was a very easy/clean install. The solder pads cleaned up easy (nothing like a Williams Sys 11, that was miserable) and I'd totally recommend it since I know how finicky some of these Sys3 games can be with the battery (even if mine gave me zero trouble).

It also gave me a reason to take a complete rip of my ROMs in case of emergency. Now to get around to getting my high scores back... c'est la vie.

System3_NVRAM (resized).jpg
3 weeks later
#960 3 years ago

Something tells me the SF2 haters have been playing machines that are tired... I recently replaced all the rubbers with clear bands, rebuilt the two primary flippers with new coils too, and now it plays fast. Still need to clean/rebuild the flipper on the car crush setup, but only so much work for one weekend right?

#961 3 years ago

Parts - For Sale
New “Selling an unpainted replica of the Street Fighter 2 car used in the car crunch. This car is made with a thicker plastic to correct the design flaw causing the original car to brea...”
2019-12-09
Salem, MA
65
Archived after: 64 days
Viewed: 423 times
Status: Not sold

#962 3 years ago
Quoted from jp1985:Parts - For Sale
Street Fighter 2 Replica CarNew!New “Selling a hand painted replica of the Street Fighter 2 car used in the car crunch. These cars are made with a thicker plastic to correct the design flaw causing the original car to...”
7 hours ago T 75
jp1985

Nice work. Did you have to create your own vacuum mold or did you contract with someone?

#963 3 years ago

I dont get why you would want to put a crap plastic car in when for $10-20 you can put a discast car in

#964 3 years ago
Quoted from lowndes8:

I dont get why you would want to put a crap plastic car in when for $10-20 you can put a discast car in

Or wait for the new hotness from toyotaboy

#965 3 years ago

Remember guys - use the flipper!

#966 3 years ago
Quoted from lowndes8:

I dont get why you would want to put a crap plastic car in when for $10-20 you can put a discast car in

This sounds similar to the people that say "I replaced the god awful side art with a new design". Some people like an original look, others not so much.

#967 3 years ago
Quoted from jp1985:

This sounds similar to the people that say "I replaced the god awful side art with a new design". Some people like an original look, others not so much.

We can all agree that red car looks like ass though. Doesnt make any sense, there was never a red car, it was always a grey lexus.

#968 3 years ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

We can all agree that red car looks like ass though. Doesnt make any sense, there was never a red car, it was always a grey lexus.

There are things you can critique on some of the best machines in pinball but there is a point where you're better off buying a new Stern if you change too much.

Let's not forget when Street Fighter's "cartoonish" graphics were criticized in comparison to Mortal Kombat's. In my opinion it is part of SF's charm.

#969 3 years ago
Quoted from jp1985:

Let's not forget when Street Fighter's "cartoonish" graphics were criticized in comparison to Mortal Kombat's. In my opinion it is part of SF's charm.

Don’t forget how much better EverQuest 2’s graphics were than World of Warcrafts when they came out. See how that one worked out

#970 3 years ago
Quoted from toyotaboy:

Beta tester has the model (just arrived there today, mail is slow). I'll post something as soon as he installs it (or he may post on here)

Any update?

2 weeks later
#971 3 years ago

The new car model looks very cool, huge improvement over V1 and the styling makes it really look like a LS400 that needs its face punched in. Hes going to have to make some adjustments like cutting out some of the rear of the car to make room for the slide mount mechanism, but it is going to be a quality piece when its finished.

MAAYYYYBEEEEE if you all ask for it he would make some sort of add-on LED headlight insert? Maybe like a motion activated thing that runs off a CR2032 battery so when it gets whacked the headlights lights flash momentarily?

either way the prototypes look sweet, its cool the original red remake is available for the purists, but I am gonna go wit the upgrade when its ready.

in the meantime, I have been using one of these to pretty good effect:
ebay.com link: NEW ARII 1990 TOYOTA CELSIOR 1 32 Scale PLASTIC MODEL KIT OWNERS CLUB SERIES

I just cut the shell a little and melted it to make it a little bit shorter. Its cheap but a good temp, and the fact that its white and hollow means the light under "WINNER" reflects up through it and kinda looks cool.

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#972 3 years ago

Looking good Malenko!!!

Where do i PayPal the thank you?

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#973 3 years ago
Quoted from bimm25i:

Looking good Malenko!!!
Where do i PayPal the thank you? [quoted image]

https://www.paypal.me/Malenk0
I'm just glad you're enjoying it!

Time to get the Alt backglass from stpcore hahahaha

#974 3 years ago

Here is a new SF2 alt trans with an easier on the eyes Chun Li

Street Fighter PsT (resized).jpg
#975 3 years ago

Man that is pretry cool except the big annoying chun li lol.

#976 3 years ago
Quoted from Pinstein:

Here is a new SF2 alt trans with an easier on the eyes Chun Li
[quoted image]

I like the concept, but its too many mixed art styles. The mini roman numeral II is also...…...weird.

#977 3 years ago

Hey, quick second opinion from any one. If I unplug these 5 plugs because my sound is jacked, can I still play the game safely? My game plays fine, and Id just like to play it silent. I need new sound chips and I want to test the game, to make sure its still functioning properly without the sound.

Thx

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#978 3 years ago

yeah - you should be fine without it. That said - leaving them plugged in and turning down the audio at the volume control would work. When I got mine the one chip was installed upside down... I removed that and got half of my vocal back - let it run without one chip for weeks till I plunked down the painful $33 from flippers for the other.

#979 3 years ago

Ok, cool. Thanks

My game is making awful noises when I turn it on. I need to write down the checksum for flippers actually, so I can get new chips. I think I need the plugs in for that, then I can unplug them to play it.

Ill turn it down and see what happens. Usually im working on my games when my kid is alseep, and the pin shreaking is pretty loud. Ive been afriad to turn it on again.

#980 3 years ago

You don't need the checksums to get new chips (unless you want to compare it to the known good value to determine specifically which chip is screwed up). All you need is 'Street Fighter 2, AROM1' for example.

#981 3 years ago

I replaced E. Honda with a Honda. Adds a bit more action and content.

SF PST V2 (resized).jpgsf2 PIN (resized).jpg
#982 3 years ago
Quoted from statictrance:

You don't need the checksums to get new chips (unless you want to compare it to the known good value to determine specifically which chip is screwed up). All you need is 'Street Fighter 2, AROM1' for example.

John at flippers wants the checksums for some reason. Im doing what the man wants. I just want my game to work again. Its been YEARS.

#983 3 years ago
Quoted from Pinstein:

I replaced E. Honda with a Honda. Adds a bit more action and content.[quoted image][quoted image]

Now you just need to get rid of Cammy as she’s not in the game... ..............Joey

#984 3 years ago

Checksum noted and sent to john.

My game functions properly mechanically, so I unplugged all the sound boards as to not cause any damage playing it with the sound issues Im having.

Good enough for now.

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1 week later
#985 3 years ago

Game works great. No sound is fine for me, I can hear it in my head.

Oh also, I have it on some crazy high legs. Its all I had at the time I moved it in. I have a tall uncle coming and want to say its for him, ha! I need to look up the proper leg height...

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#986 3 years ago

That's a pretty sweet Dynamo HS5 , time to get a pin2dmd

#987 3 years ago
Quoted from Malenko:

That's a pretty sweet Dynamo HS5 , time to get a pin2dmd

Sound first.

4 weeks later
1 week later
#989 3 years ago

My right flipper is getting a bit weak. Went to check it out and the right EOS is arching pretty badly. Apparently I'm not the only person to have this problem?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/insanely-arcing-eos-and-flipper-switches-on-gottlieb-stargate-system-3
What is strange, is that if I just make light flipper taps, no big problem. If I capture the ball (hold the flipper button down) the flipper is weaker afterwards. Any suggestions on where to start? I am running the orange coil. Would a worn EOS cause a weak flipper?
Thanks!

1 week later
#990 3 years ago

Can someone with a manual post a pic of the rubbers needed for SF2 Thanks in advance

#991 3 years ago
Quoted from pinplayerinva:

Can someone with a manual post a pic of the rubbers needed for SF2 Thanks in advance

Here you go. Titan also had listing for it in their database.
https://www.titanpinball.com/kits/index.php/browse/bygame/4744

20190112_125006 (resized).jpg
#992 3 years ago
Quoted from Breaking_Dad:

Now you just need to get rid of Cammy as she’s not in the game... ..............Joey

Replace with Ehonda

1 month later
#993 3 years ago

Can a owner help me out? I may be aquiring one of these soon. The flyer says it's 78" but every time I've seen it in the wild it sits higher than all the other machines nearby. I don't have tall ceilings and want to make sure it will fit.
Thanks.

#994 3 years ago
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2 weeks later
#996 3 years ago

Replaced my EOL switch/ capacitor and that solved my issue. The EOL contact was pretty much gone. What should I use to clean the switch contacts?

#997 3 years ago

I forget. What is the name of that material that should be placed at the end of the launch habitrail? It deadens the impact and prevents bounce back.
Thanks!

#998 3 years ago

any kind of snubbing rubber should be fine at the end of the ramp. I use target backing foam/weather stripping.

Flexstone is what you're looking for to sand and reshape your contacts. use ONLY on high voltage contacts (like EOS) or in EMs that are pre-gold flashed.

#999 3 years ago

After watching some guides today DeoxIt and chamois swabs are the ticket for gold plated contacts. But for the price of those agents it's damn near cheaper just to order brand new switches from Marco!

#1000 3 years ago

Just use a business card - Usually thick enough to soak through without ripping and it's next to free. I've been rocking it for 4 years, still on my original can of Deoxit too.

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