Street Fighter club, all welcome.....ready, set, shoot!

(Topic ID: 97724)

Street Fighter club, all welcome.....ready, set, shoot!


By Damon

4 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 958 posts
  • 87 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 16 days ago by toyotaboy
  • Topic is favorited by 25 Pinsiders

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There are 958 posts in this topic. You are on page 15 of 20.
#701 6 months ago
Quoted from brianmcculloh:

I think he means his machine is folded up i.e. in storage...

Ahh got cha. I thought he was talking about something on the play-field.
So what he's saying is defeating Chun-Li is optional? How is that possible, I thought you needed to defeat her to enter the Champion's mode?

#702 6 months ago
Quoted from Herk:

Ahh got cha. I thought he was talking about something on the play-field.
So what he's saying is defeating Chun-Li is optional? How is that possible, I thought you needed to defeat her to enter the Champion's mode?

no chun li is not optional.

edit: yeah as stated below, opto is short for optical.
something like this:

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/515-0173-00

#703 6 months ago
Quoted from Herk:

Ahh got cha. I thought he was talking about something on the play-field.
So what he's saying is defeating Chun-Li is optional? How is that possible, I thought you needed to defeat her to enter the Champion's mode?

Does your car ever reset at all - even when turning the machine off and back on? Or does it stay retracted until you manually pull it back out?

#704 6 months ago

Optos = little black brackets above the ramps (top left and top right side of the playfield)

I think he misunderstood what he meant by optos.

#705 6 months ago

If it is randomly awarding Chun Li, I would clean that sensor at the top right.
And yes, it's folded and in storage ready to head to the next owner

#706 6 months ago
Quoted from brianmcculloh:

Does your car ever reset at all - even when turning the machine off and back on? Or does it stay retracted until you manually pull it back out?

It's working fine now. For some reason it got stuck in the winning position but I reset it manually from underneath and it's been working properly ever since.

#707 6 months ago
Quoted from Herk:

It's working fine now. For some reason it got stuck in the winning position but I reset it manually from underneath and it's been working properly ever since.

Good! I've had issues with mine, but slightly different. Sometimes the car doesn't get pushed all the way up but I still get the win (although it takes more hits to win it when this happens). I'm curious if this happens to anyone else and if so do I just need to go in and do some cleaning to the coil or something?

#708 6 months ago
Quoted from InfiniteLives:

no chun li is not optional.
edit: yeah as stated below, opto is short for optical.
something like this:
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/515-0173-00

Ahh got cha. Apologizes, I've only owned EM's up until this point. Thanks for clarifying!

#709 6 months ago
Quoted from Herk:

Ahh got cha. Apologizes, I've only owned EM's up until this point. Thanks for clarifying!

no worries, hopefully you can get it working 100%!

#710 6 months ago

Whenever optos are acting funny I recommend re flowing the solder points on them. They are notorious for dry sockets.

#711 6 months ago

NOT looking forward to putting this back together!

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#712 6 months ago

Get some cliffys!!!

#713 6 months ago

Take my advice, don’t try to remove the pressed in metal guides. They will splinter the playfield coming out.

#714 6 months ago

For games of this era - I found this one was actually pretty easy to tear down and rebuild. I've found my Williams sys 11 games are far bigger PITAes let alone Williams in the 90s.

+1 for not messing with the metal guides. The ends are barbed and will do damage - just clean well around them.

Cliffys are a good idea - it'll help for the holes long term and that impact spot that I think all SF2s have above the Blanka spot (not that it's visible, but still)

#715 6 months ago

Where are you guys purchasing Cliffy's protectors from? I can't find the SF2 ones for sale or in stock anywhere.

#716 6 months ago
Quoted from Herk:

Where are you guys purchasing Cliffy's protectors from? I can't find the SF2 ones for sale or in stock anywhere.

http://www.passionforpinball.com/

Email the man directly

#717 6 months ago
Quoted from bimm25i:

NOT looking forward to putting this back together!

Good luck. The only advice I would offer is if you are going to remove the standup posts at the ramp entrances heat the t nut under the playfield with a soldering gun first to break down the loctite that was used. I twisted off 3 of 4 posts trying to get them out but once I heated it up and the loctite smoked off the 4th spun out easily.

#718 6 months ago
Quoted from latenite04:

Good luck. The only advice I would offer is if you are going to remove the standup posts at the ramp entrances heat the t nut under the playfield with a soldering gun first to break down the loctite that was used. I twisted off 3 of 4 posts trying to get them out but once I heated it up and the loctite smoked off the 4th spun out easily.

great advice!

#719 6 months ago

Any suggestions on how to get these led bulbs to fit in the recessed holes?

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#720 6 months ago
Quoted from Herk:

Any suggestions on how to get these led bulbs to fit in the recessed holes?

For GI you can not use the comet non ghosting bulbs at least, you would need their "normal" bulbs. The gi holes on gottlieb system 3s are too narrow for the non ghosting.

#722 6 months ago

Did some touch up painting around the center window. Came out pretty darn good if I say so myself!

The post light under Ken is the wrong temperature of white but I used a clear star post and it really brightened up the tornado cave

I need cool scorecards now, does anyone know where to get a custom set printed? My printer is awful.

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#723 6 months ago

as a former sf2 owner i know how badly the car can be damaged. if theres an interest in a 3d printed replacement (modeled as the accurate lexus LS-400) let me know. first person to PM me with stock car dimensions (xyz plus mounting hole positions) gets the first sample free.

#724 6 months ago

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#725 6 months ago

awesome.. lemme start modeling something up!

#726 6 months ago

Rough model to start

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#727 6 months ago

I would be interested in purchasing a lexus car crunch model.

As well as a bartop arcade mod

#728 6 months ago

The hood lines just scream "punch and kick me into a million pieces!"

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#729 6 months ago

I'd be interested in a 3D printed car but do prefer the red seeing that's the color in the game and on the translite

#730 6 months ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

I'd be interested in a 3D printed car but do prefer the red seeing that's the color in the game and on the translite

thats the beauty of 3d printing, any color you want on demand. i will likely offer grey from the video game, and stock red.

#731 6 months ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

I'd be interested in a 3D printed car but do prefer the red seeing that's the color in the game and on the translite

Alt translight fixes that, and I could offer alt pin2dmd files to make the car grey

#732 6 months ago
Quoted from toyotaboy:

Rough model to start

YES YES YES YES YES

#733 6 months ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

I'd be interested in a 3D printed car but do prefer the red seeing that's the color in the game and on the translite

Considering that Malenko translite is 100x better than the original, I think making the car grey or white is the way to go. But hes right, he can make whatever you want.

#734 6 months ago

wow, i have a fine working car but would def swap out if the 3d printed one holds up! I still need to get the pin2dmd mod ahhhhh

#735 6 months ago
Quoted from InfiniteLives:

would def swap out if the 3d printed one holds up!

I'm likely going to print it "solid" with a cutout for the shaft at the bottom and the threaded plate. I could shell it out, but then I would just have support material underneath which would probably equal what the solid is (at least with partial infill).

I may also experiment with creating a flat area in the back and adding a piece of clear replaceable PETG to try to eliminate that ugly metal outer bracket.

What's everyone's preference for mounting? Hitting the hood or trunk?

#736 6 months ago
Quoted from toyotaboy:

I'm likely going to print it "solid" with a cutout for the shaft at the bottom and the threaded plate. I could shell it out, but then I would just have support material underneath which would probably equal what the solid is (at least with partial infill).
I may also experiment with creating a flat area in the back and adding a piece of clear replaceable PETG to try to eliminate that ugly metal outer bracket.
What's everyone's preference for mounting? Hitting the hood or trunk?

I would say hood, Also, I think if there was a "front bumper decal" to put on the metal plunger that would be pretty badass

decal (resized).png

Also you'll notice that my metal bumper has some of the old broken car plastic in it. It pokes out of the bottom about 3/32" and rests on the playfield, and has a slightly backwards lip (probably to avoid scratching the surface when knocked bbackwards), the metal assembly doesn't "touch" the playfield, the car plastic does.

#737 6 months ago
Quoted from bimm25i:

I would say hood, Also, I think if there was a "front bumper decal" to put on the metal plunger that would be pretty badass

Also you'll notice that my metal bumper has some of the old broken car plastic in it. It pokes out of the bottom about 3/32" and rests on the playfield, and has a slightly backwards lip (probably to avoid scratching the surface when knocked bbackwards), the metal assembly doesn't "touch" the playfield, the car plastic does.

pasted_image (resized).png

Also, is it just me or does the car in the game look more like a BMW E34 with a Lexus grille?

#738 6 months ago

Sign me up for a 3D printed car. The car in game is 100% a LS400. Different name in Japan (Toyota Celsior) but that's the exact model.

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#739 6 months ago
Quoted from toyotaboy:

I'm likely going to print it "solid" with a cutout for the shaft at the bottom and the threaded plate. I could shell it out, but then I would just have support material underneath which would probably equal what the solid is (at least with partial infill).
I may also experiment with creating a flat area in the back and adding a piece of clear replaceable PETG to try to eliminate that ugly metal outer bracket.
What's everyone's preference for mounting? Hitting the hood or trunk?

Solid is def the way to go. Will also make the mode more challenging with the added mass. What printer will you be using?

#740 6 months ago
Quoted from smitherssp:

What printer will you be using?

I have both a prusa i3 mk2 and a monoprice select (wanhao clone). Both are pretty equal in quality.
The model as it stands is about an 8 hour print time each with 20% honeycomb infill.

#741 6 months ago

Can your software estimate part weight based on polymer type? I would weigh the broken car I have but there's a bunch of glue inside from the PO's repairs.
You know, if a sold model is too heavy for the mechanism we can always look at using your model as a thermoforming blank. That's clearly how the original was made.

#742 6 months ago
Quoted from smitherssp:

Can your software estimate part weight based on polymer type? I would weigh the broken car I have but there's a bunch of glue inside from the PO's repairs.

Pretty sure it can because I know it can estimate material cost based on inputting whatever you pay per kg of material. I'm not in front of my home computer but I can give an estimate tonight.

Quoted from smitherssp:

if a sold model is too heavy for the mechanism we can always look at using your model as a thermoforming blank. That's clearly how the original was made.

I doubt it will be. I've seen at least one youtube video of someone that attached a diecast toy to his and I'm guessing didn't affect the mechanism. PLA is pretty light in general, especially with light infill.

#743 6 months ago

From my experience, you can use a heavier car on the form, you just have to make sure it has some way to roll so the release mechanism does not bind.

#744 6 months ago
Quoted from toyotaboy:

Pretty sure it can because I know it can estimate material cost based on inputting whatever you pay per kg of material. I'm not in front of my home computer but I can give an estimate tonight.

I doubt it will be. I've seen at least one youtube video of someone that attached a diecast toy to his and I'm guessing didn't affect the mechanism. PLA is pretty light in general, especially with light infill.

Yeah with a full sized ball there is definitely some room for extra weight, I use a 15/16" ball in mine and I can still get the plunger up in 3 good whacks

#745 6 months ago
Quoted from smitherssp:

Can your software estimate part weight based on polymer type?

Currently .32lbs

#746 6 months ago

Made a new instruction card tonight!

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#747 6 months ago
Quoted from Herk:

Made a new instruction card tonight!

I really like that! Well done.

Any chance of sharing? I'd get that printed for mine.

#748 6 months ago

Watched a PVRd Jeopardy episode from last week...

Here was the question for a category with the word "street" in the answer. Of course nobody knew it, lol.

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#749 6 months ago

If you're trying to tune your car mech so it's "fun", you only get 3 seconds in the third round, the first 2 are supposed to be "easy".

I find during the 3rd(and subsequent) round, you have enough time for 3 good hits and a quick 4th slap, sometimes.

I would try to dial the mech in so that maybe one out of 30 attempts is completed in 3 hits (the perfect round) that way, you can beat the first 2, but the 3rd(50,000,000 points btw) is a good challenge and only pays off 1/5 or so and is highly skill based.

If you make it so the car takes more than 4 whacks every time you will NEVER beat level 3

#750 6 months ago

Delivered my SF last night and said farewell to my first pin. On the plus side, it went to a local so I can go visit it!

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