On my machine both the Cliffy's lifted over time. My machine had them installed over damage (previous owner), so they were not very well supported. I replaced them, but first I fixed the damaged wood to support the thin steel better. Love the Cliffy's, but they won't last forever if the hole has missing wood.

When I sold the machine I documented the damage and the repair for the new owner... gotta live in this town

I think that may be the issue with mine. At 2 o'clock you can see a little bit of wood missing.

How did you fix the damaged wood in order to give the Cliffy a 360 degree ring of support?

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Exact same here. Wasn’t sure if it’s from that or the ball hitting it as it’s ejected from the hole...

I used an epoxy wood filler. Basically, I drilled a few shallow holes to give the epoxy a good bite. Some people use bondo or JB weld. Since the repair will be covered with the cliffy, I think most fillers will work.

vid1900 has great info in his playfield restoration thread. I read all his suggestions and made it work for me.

It's good to see we both have the exact same issue. Perhaps filling that missing wood may fix the problem like it did for zimjoe

Awesome.....thanks a bunch @zimjoe!! This is the last thing needed to make my SF2 completely dialed in.

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Gotta love when u buy a pinball machine and the seller throws in a street fighter 2 hyper rainbow edition!!

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Farewell crappy toy car

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How did you get a full car in there? I had to put the shell in only as the metal rod wouldn't fit under it

Can someone tell me what the length of the legs are for a Street Fighter 2? I bought 31 inch ones just like my Freddy and they are too long.

Thanks.

I just finished putting together my new car for my SF2 restoration project. I had to cut my car up quite a bit. You can see what I did here:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/my-first-restoration-street-fighter-or-this-thing-should-be-dead/page/2#post-4142705

27", I picked some up from PBR recently (P/N LEG-27CA).

I just bought a sf2 and i decided to update all eproms, know im missing some sound effects like the knockout effects of the bosses it just goes quiet. Can someone assist me or provide me with new rom set. I downloaded romset from vp but maybe bad? Was working before rom update please help.

Does anyone know which transistor drives the left kicking rubber? Mine is locked on. And keeps popping fuses. Actually melted the coil.

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Left kicking rubber? I can take a pic mine and post part number from manual if you post pic of the location of what you looking at.

The manual says that the left kicking rubber uses Q2. Transistor RFP12N10L or IRL530.

Thanks for that. Installed the new Rottendog driver board, coil, and fuse. Good to go! What's crazy is that Q2, the offending transistor, had already been replaced by the PO. They solder job on the transistors that had been replaced wasn't very pretty. I'll try to take some pics if I get the chance. Additionally I almost crapped myself when a loose connector basically dropped all playfield lighting, flipper control, etc. When in doubt reseat all the connectors! lol

Was talking weak flipper issues with some other guys in a SF2 restoration thread & some pertinent information came up that I figured was worthy of sharing here.

Apparently there was an addendum to the SF2 manual concerning the original left flipper coil. It wasn't strong enough to consistently reach the top of the chun-li li ramp shot. So they are calling for the original left flipper coil to be replaced with A-29876.

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I have that coil in my machine and it still takes a nice clean shot to get up the Chun-Li ramp but the original coil couldn't make it past the spinning flipper

I can also confirm - the stronger left flipper makes the shot worth shooting for. With the back legs set to max height I could make it with the stock coil (and fresh flipper rebuild) maybe 1 out of every 30. Now it's still challenging but very makeable.

Can somebody explain how to master the skillshot?

The guy will say "ready, set, shoot" .....

As soon as he's done saying "shoot" ....launch the ball. You'll see the star hit the target and how close it is to the bullseye.

Then you hear Chun li say either "early" or "late" after the star hits the target. That means your bullseye shot was too early or too late. Then all you need to do is change the timing slightly if needed.

The lights flash as well and you can time it off that

Then you actually have to hit the bracelet target to complete the skill shot

That's correct....I forgot to mention that important tidbit.

So whatever value you are awarded during ninja star/plunger shot, you'll have to hit the bracelet shot to collect it. And if you strike the bracelet hard enough right in the middle, you'll get the value doubled onto your score.

I never noticed the flashers going 1-2-3 (ready, set, shoot) until you pointed that out, lol

I just close my eyes with the plunger held back, after "shoot" I release a split second later. Bullseyes for daze

I still have no idea who the Count Up round works. lol

Count Up lights a random shot, uses the score like a reverse timer ; it slowly counts up then gets faster and faster. So the later you hit it, the more its worth, wait too long and it expires.

I seem to recall it expires when it hits 40m.

Mine is always the M Bison shot, for what it's worth... I don't remember seeing a setting to make that more difficult (or at least change) - but let me know if there is. I have most of my other difficulties set higher.

I need to finance another project... So my fully restored SF2 is for sale.

SOLD!

Machine - For Trade

Street Fighter II fully restored Archived

Fully restored (full original status) - “Up for sale or Trade, a restored Gottlieb Street Fighter 2. I have been working on this game for about 2 years, and you can see the transformation I performed here: https://pinsi...”

2018-02-28

Bakersfield, CA

uncivil_engineer

Trade

Archived after: 14 days

Viewed: 872 times

Status: Sold (amount private)

Contributed to Pinside

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Welcome! Congrats on obtaining your holy grail pin. I love the stop/go/strategize nature of this pin compared to some other frantically fast paced ones (although I like those too). Have fun with it!

Man these flippers...... I am spoiled I guess from playing WPCs a lot lately, but these are just awful. They seem to have a lot more "wiggle" than the WPCs particularly during EOS. Do I maybe have a hardware problem or is it just a fact that these flippers kinda stink?

I see the left and right flippers use different solenoids too, that is very yuck for me. I'm thinking about putting the stronger (orange) coil on both L+R lower flippers,

I see replacing the coil stops could help with the long travel but that doesn't but me as much. I am curious, has anyone modded thier flippers to make them work "right"? If so I am desprately looking for suggestions.

Thanks all!

Also custom rulecards.... Anyone ever come across some cool ones?

I have replaced the coil stops on stargate which i will be top shopping tomorrow.

But, your overthinking it. Just play and shoot the flashing shots

there was a service bulletin to replace the left coil with a stronger one than what came from the factory to hit the chun li shot better i believe.

ive never had any problem with my sfii flippers. its a gotliebb, so the angle is different and they are different style bats. Its just like playing an EM with the small flippers vs the normal sized ones. different games were designed differently.

Okay so none of my playfield flashers are working, started inspecting why today and found the previous owner put a 20a fuse in the 10a spot for me, sweet .

there is a single 33 ohm 5A resistor that all of the flashers go through, I am going to try replacing this first.

I expect to find some are stuck on if it works but I have some spare transistors


Also, does anyone know the part # for the slingshot arm? And the e-clip size for the bottom of the flipper shaft? Can't find info on either in the manual

Thanks All!

Anyone have a place where I could buy a set of cliffy's outhole protectors?

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Order from Cliffy.

http://www.passionforpinball.com/

That's where I got mine.

I have fixed 2 issues in mine that seem to be common problems.

The car crush flipper wasn't working, and trying to manually fire the transistor also didnt work.
Found "Relay S" under the playfield near the right slingshot had become mechanically bound up and needed to be repositioned, fired up the game and the car crash worked great!!

The playfield flashers were all out, i again, tried grounding the transistor tabs to test and got nothing. Looking at the schematic, ALL of the playfield flashers route through a 0.33 ohm.5 watt reaistor. I found the resistor UNDER the playfield near the very back (mid-left), took a little searching to find it, and it was burnt to a crisp! Replaced it, all flashers are ok but 1was stuck on (under balrog plastic, poor guy has a gross burn on his face from the previous owner before the resistor cooked itself). I changed the stuck transistor with a new 12N10 and everything is working!!! Now I'm waiting for the leds to show up from comet and I've got what I hear is going to be a bear of a teardown/shop coming up.

What's the story on pulling the mylar on these? Is there a high risk of peeling up paint while doing so?

Congrats on getting your machine home in one piece! Sounds like you're making quick work of fixing it up. Just wait until you replace those flashers with blue leds all around, it's so nice. I also recommend getting the alternate translite, but that's just personal preference.

To answer your question, I have not attempted to remove any mylar from my machine. It still has the original. I'm sure someone else can chime in on that.

The car crash flipper activation mech has the shortest travel of any coil/blade set I can think of - and I have a number of EMs in my collection. I've had to fiddle with it a few times over the last two years to keep it functioning well.

Seems like I'm a bit too late on this one - but I have an 08 Honday Fit - Gottlieb sys 3 is the only pre 95 machine that won't fit in it easily (have to take the head off, which is a major pain). Smaller SUVs beware on these... Mine is just a shade too narrow on the opening.

Flipper wise I've never noticed a wiggle during EOS - maybe tighten the allen screws underneath? It's a different feel cause it's a different maker, but nothing out of the ordinary. Coil stops will help the travel if that bothers you (I wouldn't recommend putting them significantly lower than intended). Yes, the coils are supposed to be different - you'll be thankful for that if you raise the inclination to max as Chun Li is basically impossible at that angle/original coil strength.

I've pulled mylar on two System 11s which are often hit or miss. All the articles and posts I read warned of System 3 Mylar so I've left mine alone.

When in doubt - especially on a Gottlieb... if you don't know the part number - just call Steve Young. He's crotchedy, but knows more than all of us combined and is the king of Gottlieb parts.

I think chun li is an opto. Mine's folded up otherwise I could check.

Herk - Chun Li is definitely an opto in the back left of the machine - one opto tracks the ball going up the ramp, another when the shot is complete and not whirlwind kicked back. Check the upper left one kind of behind the Zangief ramp.

I think he means his machine is folded up i.e. in storage...