Quoted from smitherssp:I do believe I'm the second person on the planet to have a colorized SFII other than Malenko the Magnificent.
I do believe that I am a little jealous!
That looks great with the new translite too. Never should have traded mine away; now everyone wants money for them.
Quoted from smitherssp:The upper play field? Good luck. I have a NAP upper and after taking a look at the upper assembly I chickened out. I don't even know where to start! I need to do it though as the exit habitrail is dislocated from the under side of the upper deck.
NAP?
Well, basically the whole top playfield as much as needed for me to clean every creek.
I dont really have any choice, as the machine is SO DIRTY =)
But I think of filming while we are doing it, and of course photos, so maybe it can help some others.
Quoted from freddy:I think you are Asking. What's NOS mean
New Old Stock
Refers to original part that's brand new
Some use the term for older reproduction stuff as it technecly is old stock that could be new as in never installed .
And once used it's used!
yeah I know what NOS is, but wrote that before he edited it from NAS to NOS but thanks
Quoted from smitherssp:Honestly that would be great! NAP was an autocorrect. I typed NOS =New Old Stock
Will probobaly not be before end of next week/start of the following week after that as I am going on vacation, but will do all i can to set up a camera.
That'll be a major contribution to the community. That upper field is a labyrinth and there is no documentation of the disassembly process out there. Trust me, I've searched. Thanks!
In the next couple of weeks, I may pick up a complete populated playfield. If I do, I will post some pictures about how to take the upper playfield apart.
The upper playfield was actually pretty easy to install/uninstall... I did a complete teardown/clean when I got mine. (It was originally bought by a couple back in 1997 and sat spordaically used in their basement for 18 years). This is 18 months or so of memory without being able to look at the thing, so take it for what it's worth; but I'd be happy to help with any questions if anyone gets stuck and I'm home near my machine.
---------------------------------------------------------------
Essentially - the thing hooks in on the left side to a bracket - that's the last thing to go out/first thing to put in...
Start by removing the right ramp - but you can leave the stargate in place - there is enough play in the plastic remove it. There is an opto that's attached to it that'll need to be removed before taking out the ramp. (it's attached with those little plastic Gottlieb rivets, so put a sheet down in the bottom of the cab if you lose one. I lost at least 4 during my teardown)
Take the chun li flipper off. The easiest way I found was via allen key under the playfield. it's a tight fit, but doable... It helps to take the clear plastic off which is only 3 straightforward screws
Finally unscrew the top playfield. Everything else seams up right aong to it and should not be affected. Once unscrewed, the playfield should slide to the right (hence why you remove the right ramp). I don't believe there was anything supporting it on the left (two metal prongs hook right into the habitrail and the screws hold it solid)
Quoted from smitherssp:The upper play field? Good luck. I have a NOS upper and after taking a look at the upper assembly I chickened out. I don't even know where to start! I need to do it though as the exit habitrail is dislocated from the under side of the upper deck.
Here's building on the last post from statictrance with some pictures.
Remove the left ramp.
LeftRamp (resized).jpg
Remove the middle ramp.
CenterRamp (resized).jpg
Remove the left ramp.
RightRamp (resized).jpg
Remove the flipper assembly.
ChunLiFlipper (resized).jpg
Remove the upper playfield.
UpperPlayfield (resized).jpg
You may also need to loosen the screws that hold the left habitrail in place. If you just need to get the left habitrail back into the metal loop on the upper playfield you can remove the screws that hold the habitrail and pull it out sideways and reinsert the pins into the metal loop.
Quoted from smitherssp:You can still buy them on here. STPcore sells them.
I traded away the machine otherwise I would be getting a translite and color DMD
Niiiiiicceeee. That is going to be super helpful. Standby for my inevitable panic post about how I can't get the bitch back together. lol
You have this Smithers... I have all the faith in you.
I was actually shocked at how nicely things fit back together. Say what you will about Gottlieb quality and their questionable electronics decisions in the SS era, I've been shocked at how well built the sucker is compared to my other Bally/Williams SS machines.
I think the bottom line is that System 3's are built like a brick shit house. Rock solid reliability. Game play on the other hand...not so much.
Thanks to latenite04 (&
statictrance) for the easy breakdown on how to change the upper-playfield.
I am tool/handyman challenged and was nervous about attempting to switch it out without supervision (I need an adult!!!)
I did it all in less than an hour and I found the most time consuming part was replacing all the pieces needed on the new upper-playfield (screws, ball posts, etc)
Will post pics shortly
Quoted from smitherssp:Did you take any more pics of the process?
No, unfortunately I didn't. I followed latenite04 directions from A-Z and it was perfect. They were so easy. If I can do it....anyone can, lol.
Quoted from ImNotNorm:Thanks to latenite04 (& statictrance) for the easy breakdown on how to change the upper-playfield.
I am tool/handyman challenged and was nervous about attempting to switch it out without supervision (I need an adult!!!)
I did it all in less than an hour and I found the most time consuming part was replacing all the pieces needed on the new upper-playfield (screws, ball posts, etc)
Will post pics shortly
Your welcome, glad it helped. I had the pictures handy since I just finished shopping mine a week ago. There is that moment of panic when you have it stripped down to the playfield that you might never get it back together.
20170811_112553 (resized).jpg
Question to Street Fighter II owners:
What checksum is your gamerom showing at the display just after powering up and what is the revision number printed on the label at the gamerom (e.g. 735/1)?
I have several gamerom inmages at my library but no info about their revisions. Exploring the images with a hex editor doesn't reveal anything too.
Thanks!
Quoted from MarAlb:Question to Street Fighter II owners:
What checksum is your gamerom showing at the display just after powering up and what is the revision number printed on the label at the gamerom (e.g. 735/1)?
I have several gamerom inmages at my library but no info about their revisions. Exploring the images with a hex editor doesn't reveal anything too.
Thanks!
My checksum is showing A-094 after powerup (I believe that's the most up to date)
Not sure what you mean by "revision number printed on the label".....maybe because I'm a noob?
Quoted from latenite04:There is that moment of panic when you have it stripped down to the playfield that you might never get it back together.
There was that "oh shit" moment....but it was surprisingly easy to take apart and replace thanks to your easy breakdown on how to do it.
Quoted from ImNotNorm:My checksum is showing A-094 after powerup (I believe that's the most up to date)
Not sure what you mean by "revision number printed on the label".....maybe because I'm a noob?
Thanks for your response. At the CPU board, the gamerom is installed. Original ones have a label like pictured below. This one says 735/3 where 735 is the gamenumber (=Street Fighter II) and /3 means revision 3. (I borrowed the picture from Clay's pinrepair website).
Quoted from MarAlb:Thanks for your response. At the CPU board, the gamerom is installed. Original ones have a label like pictured below. This one says 735/3 where 735 is the gamenumber (=Street Fighter II) and /3 means revision 3. (I borrowed the picture from Clay's pinrepair website).
Pics of mine
Quoted from smitherssp:I also raised the Chun Li flipper up a bit so it doesn't contact the upper play field.
Before and after pics:
I thought along the same lines and did the same thing.
What's the "habit trail" by the way.....?
Quoted from ImNotNorm:What's the "habit trail" by the way.....?
Quoted from Breaking_Dad:Really...!!!... ....jk...it's the metal wire form that brings the ball back to your flipper.............Joey
Ok....i thought it might have been the spiraling metal rod the ball goes through when you kill Zangief.
That's the cork-screw...man,I'm lovin all this SF attention....!!!...I'm jelly of you guys with the color...I've spent my pin money on the mini-Arcade mod just before the color came to light............Joey
Quoted from smitherssp:That mod is sweet though. Money well spent
I emailed him inquiring about getting that mod a few weeks ago. He said he'd add me to the wait list. It looks amazing!!
Quoted from Breaking_Dad:what are the square foam pads at the end of the habitrail called
Mine has them on both habitrails and on the metal plates over the upkickers, they are hard plastic. They are listed on pbr as ball snubbers. At the end of the habitrail I would think a wide piece of high density weather stripping would work well.
Quoted from cocomonkeh:How much were the NOS ones?
Pbr has them listed for $30 on their website.
Quoted from Breaking_Dad:Probably dumb question... but what are the square foam pads at the end of the habitrail called...my T2 has them but SF does not...does yours...?..........Joey
Mine doesn't have any at the end of the habitrails. Haven't seen them on others for SF2 either. Seems like they would prevent wear. The wire form for the shooter lane doesn't have it either.
Fairly new to the club and have been looking for some custom instruction cards. I don't mind donating a few bucks if the work is good, anybody have a source?
Quoted from Mattamoose:Fairly new to the club and have been looking for some custom instruction cards. I don't mind donating a few bucks if the work is good, anybody have a source?
I looked for quite some time and have never seen a set for this machine. I put these together one night because I was tired of looking at my faded cards. If anyone else has a nice set of cards I'd love to see them.
SF2FreePlayCard144dpi.jpg
rulescardcorrectsizeblue.jpg
rulescardcorrectsizeblack.jpg
Quoted from Breaking_Dad:Hi...I'm going to install the arcade mod...does it matter which side I plug it in to...the service or the validator outlet...???!!!...Thank you............Joey
I believe you want the validator outlet, it should be switched on with the machine's power. The service outlet should always have power, even when the machine is turned off.
Quoted from Breaking_Dad:Ok...dumb question again...(sry)...how do I get to this flasher to replace it...and how do I get the little black plugs off...(I'm missing one on my top most flasher,anyone know what they're called so I can order some)...Thank you all for your help.. ................Joey
To get at that flasher you have to remove the shooter lane habitrail. It's held on by a machine screw at the top, a wood screw in the middle( the one that is in your picture), and two lock nuts under the playfield at the bottom. It will still be attached by the wires for the opto at the top but you should be able to swing it out of the way. You can then remove the plastic that the flasher is mounted to by removing the two speed nuts. The black plugs are plastic rivets. Below are the gottlieb part numbers if you order from pbr but marco sells plastic rivets as well. To remove them you need to pull the center pin out. The easiest way to do it is to push on the pin from the bottom with a small flat screwdriver to get the head to pop up and then pry it out carefully. If you can't get to the underside of the rivet you can use a small flat screwdriver to wedge under the head and work it up. These things tend to break easily.
GTB-MP10 .28”long
GTB-MP91 .39” long
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