So I've been working on the weak vuks on my street fighter, and in the process managed to switch the diode and fry stuff. So far I've corrected the diode, replaced the fuse and the transistor (q5 if you're wondering). I test the coil using the diagnostics and it doesn't work. Crap. I then followed this testing protocol from pinballrepair.com: http://www.pinrepair.com/sys3/#driver

"1.With game power off, put a DMM set to ohms on the coil in question. If testing a flashlamp, remove the lamp and check its ohm reading. It should read 3 ohms or higher for coils. If no ohms, the coil/flashlamp probably has a broken winding and needs to be replaced. If the coil reads zero (or near zero) ohms, either the 1N4004 coil diode is shorted or the coil itself is internally shorted.
2.Game power on and in attract mode, put DMM on DC volts. Put red DMM lead on either coil or flashlamp lug, and black DMM on ground. Should see 50 to 60 volts DC for coils and about 20 volts DC for flashlamps. If power only seen at one coil/flashlamp lug, the device is bad. If power not at either lug, probably a blown under-playfield fuse. Could also be the power "daisy chain" is broken upstream (remember coil/flashlamp power chains from device to device).
3.Game power on. Using an alligator clip test lead, attach one end to ground. Momentarily touch the other end of the alligator test lead to the NON-BANDED diode coil lug (for a flash lamp there is no diode, just be sure to touch the ground side of the lamp socket, which is the side *not* daisy-chained to other flash lamps). The coil or flashlamp should fire. If not and there's power at the coil/flashlamp, suspect a mechanical issue or a bad coil/flashlamp.
4.Using the schematics, find which MosFET transistor controls this coil (the "Q" number, for example Q28).
5. Game power on. Using an alligator clip test lead, attach one end to ground in the backbox. Momentarily touch the other end of the alligator test lead to the metal tab on the MosFET (for our example, Q28). This should energize the coil or flashlamp."

And everything tests ok, except for test #5 the coil locks on for about 3 seconds, which doesn't happen when I test the other vuk coil. I have also confirmed that the new transistor I installed tests as good (dmm black on center and testing the other two legs etc etc...). All of which leads me to the question :
Where do I go from here? Anything else that might have fried when I screwed up the diode?

#sf2

Sorry for the slow response - it's definitely not a fuse, there's another coil on the same fuse that works perfectly. I'll check out the continuity on the board. When I ground the transistor it does fire but the coil locks on for a couple of seconds, which is strange...

Finally had a chance to look SF2 again. Pulled out the board (again) and my soldering looks good, confirmed that it's the correct transitor and traced back to the IC, testing everything along the way and as far as I can tell everything is good. I'm officially at a loss.