In on an LE. Game looks great!
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How's this compare to Elvira HoH for those that have played both? Debating between the two as my next purchase.
Boy I'm tempted to join the club especially with the LE for sale in the marketplace at $7600. I'd be in if the seller had some feedback. Always hesitate to be the first one to try Pinside sentiment sure seems to have driven the prices way down on this title, but I think the game looks great.
My LE is arriving tomorrow and I'm curious waht the replacement ramp talk is about. I'm not finding the problem it is fixing in scrolling back through all the pages. Thanks guys, can't wait to join the club!
Quoted from imagamejunky:Awesome! Is that a JP with red armor I see?
It's a JP with burnt orange sunset armor!
a2e37a651941b80cf648adc1cb6e9cf50ed8bf5e.jpeg (resized).jpgThis game looks infinitely easier to work on than the JJP pirates I had. That game for me is king of sucking more of my time tweaking/fixing/preventing than playing.
In my new LE with Jan build date it was rejecting every single TK lock shot. I adjusted the coil position on the backside of the backboard so that the arm gap when triggered is about the width of the ball no more. When that didn’t work I noticed the measurement from ramp to top of arm was greater than the 2 inches so I bent that down until it was. When that didn’t work I adjusted the ramp as far downward towards the bottom of the playfield as possible. Bingo bango that did the trick. I still have had one or two rejects but most make it now. Thanks to chuckwurt for posting the stern guide to adjustments.
For what it’s worth having never played the game before, I can hit the demogorgan shot without issue from both flippers.
Has anyone tried adjusting the TK arm so that it sits further to the right of the machine? This would entail some washers on the mounting mechanism or something similar. Mine seems to reject most balls before they even get the chance to go up the arm. If the ball could swing around the bend a bit more prior to engaging that arm it might help. Just a thought to see if anyone has tried it.
I've done all the recommended adjustments so far from Stern/this thread.
Quoted from chuckwurt:Double, triple and quadruple check you did them correctly. 13/16” of an once from the back wall, 2” from the ramp floor (actually works best a tad under this), and remove the screw in the back snug plate, loosen all the ramp screws (including the ones in the ramp flap), and push the ramp toward the front of the game and retighten. Do this for the entrance half of the ramp. Leave the exit half alone.
When I had initially done this I was using a tape measure. I got a small precision ruler and walked back through the Stern guide for TK lock adjustments. Turns out the tape measure method sucks as I was way off on my measurements. Adjusted them now to Stern spec and the lock is working much much better. Thanks for the reminder to check and double check!
Damn, I can both never keep track and when I'm confident I have hit the 5-way I often don't get it leading me to believe I've lost it somehow along the way. Would love them to sneak some sort of visual in the next update apart from the quick LCD popup that I usually fail to see
Do all of elwins games have combo indicators? I know Maiden does for sure. I may have just for the first time witnessed it on Jurassic Park last night but have not played enough to confirm (might be the helicopter flasher?).
I just missed out on the UV kits for prem/LE! If anyone has one to sell please reach out to me. Thanks much!
What is up with the ball 'locking' on game start the first time you hit the left ramp? It doesn't count as a lock though and releases. This is the now the 2nd game I"ve owned and they both have done it. Gotta think its code - 1.02
Quoted from chuckwurt:Pro? Premium? Was lock lit? Does the lock animation run? Does this happen on lock one 100% of the time?
Need more info.
Forgot the pro has the virtual lock. The two I’ve had have been LE and Premium now. Right at start of game I hit the left ramp(no lock lit) and the arm fires and then the magnet releases kinda quick. No lock animation. It’s enough to make the ball fly in the air and sometimes stick and then drop. Both games were on 1.02. Hit the ramp again with no lock lit immediately after and it doesn’t do it anymore.
Quoted from chuckwurt:Well the arm shouldn’t be firing unless lock is lit. That’s the problem. That needs adjusted or looked into.
Agreed. Given two games do this on only the first left ramp shot of the game I kinda think it’s software. Can anyone else confirm if their premium/LE does this on ball one first left ramp shot only(no lock lit)
Quoted from chuckwurt:It’s not a software issue. My LE didn’t do this once on 1.02
Lol arghhh. I swear I'm not seeing things! I'll see if I can video it today.
I've done switch tests and opto tests today on start of ball 1. I got nothing erratic in those departments and all checks out. What else would cause this same behavior on two separate games if it's electrical or mechanical?
Quoted from palacekeeper:ahh ok that makes sense. my best guess is that the ball gets a little air near the beginning when the machine is cold. only happens occasionally. could be an opto issue, but seems less likely since it only does it when it's stone cold. I'll have the glass off today after my UV kit arrives . I'll test mine to see if the diverter engages.
Vitty - are you saying this happens reliably 100%? or just more often when it's cold?
You were correct in your assertion that the ball was flying up and tripping the magnet optos. The arm is not firing but the ball is catching air and then the magnet releases. Good one!!
My machine is just cleaned and waxed so it’s super fast at the moment. 6.8 degrees pitch and has the TK lock updated ramp plastic installed.
For now I’ll try turning the flipper power down just a tad until the fresh wax isn’t so fast anymore.
Thanks all!
Quoted from C0untDeM0net:Honestly, at this point I may go back to the stock speakers. I've seen these pyle speakers recommended many times over but honestly without an external amp and eq I'm not sure any backbox 4ohm speaker is an upgrade. I may try some 8ohm 4 inch speakers just to get a little clarity but I'll likely not mess with this much longer.
With the machine set to 8 ohms the audio is significantly better but there is a lot of crackling happening. I have not been able to dial in the settings to get rid of it. since the speakers are high wattage I have to assume the internal amp is being overdriven even at low volume.
With the machine set to 4 ohms the audio becomes muddy and the speech is below the sound effects. Even noticed the knocker sound to be nearly non-existent. Switching to the eq and setting a pretty drastic v curve improves things but it does not sound better than the stock speakers.
Might just stick these in my car lol.
I'm upgrading my premium speakers with these Pyle's today. Will report back. I do have the latest cleland code which I believe he mentioned may have some crackling audio issues. I've not played it yet though.
Just installed the Pyle speakers and they sound excellent. Had to revert back to 1.04 Cleland code though as the latest has issues with distorted audio.
Man the mystery/extra ball shot gate hanging up the ball is driving me batty. Anyone have the definitive fix? I’ve tinkered with bending that gate flap into all types of shapes and it still gets hung on it.
Whaaaaat - mine doesn't even go anywhere near the saucer after hitting the targets - someone needs to post a video
I can't even manually trigger the MXV skillshot lol - what am I missing? I've plunged the ball, grabbed it, touched the lit drop(got the skillshot animation) then dropped the ball into the scoop - no MXV. I'm on the latest version of code 1.05
Quoted from finnflash:It needs to hit the drops and go directly into the scoop, not shot in the scoop.
yeah i know, i'm literally moving the ball with my hands the entire time other than catching it from the shooter lane exit. No other switches or flipper buttons pushed. Very odd.
Just installed a magnetic reed switch(MRS) in place of the rollover switch on the burn it back loop. Wow does this make a difference! I've owned several stranger things at this point and each of them had a similar issue where at times the burn it back loop shot didn't register as the ball flies through there and catches a bit of air and misses the switch. With this it is detected 100% of the time - no more misses. This has drastically improved my score as I realized how difficult it was without it to get the 2x and extra balls lit.
Extra special thanks to Sonic for helping me work through some magentic interference between the demogorgan coil and pop bumper coil which are both close proximity to this switch. If you order one from him be sure to request the magnetic shielding strip as an add on as it is needed here!
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