Quoted from Neal_W:

Does the reset coil work in coil test mode? (make sure the coin door is closed or interlock is pulled when testing coils)

Quoted from Neal_W:

Maybe there is a fuse on the node board for that coil?? Maybe a loose connection at the node board? (im just guessing at this point) I'm not familiar but if there are other identical node boards, you can swap them around as a test. When you move each to/from a different position, you need to change the dip switches on each node board that identifies where it is being used.

Quoted from PinMonk:

Node Board 9, connector CN7 goes to the drop target reset and the trip coil.
Do you have a multimeter? If the coil has both wires attached (one didn't come off), you may have blown a transistor.

Quoted from PinMonk:

Well, node 9 and node 8 are the same board, so as long as you know the coil is good now (since it's new) you could swap the node boards to see if that fixes your problem with that target bank (the problem will move to Left down post or maybe left eject if the transistor is blown). Basically you just swap the boards and adjust the dip switches to change the board ID so node 9 becomes node 8 and node 8 becomes node 9, then physically move them and reconnect. Here's the chart to show you the dip switch settings:[quoted image]

Quoted from PinMonk:

Node Board 9, connector CN7 goes to the drop target reset and the trip coil.
Do you have a multimeter? If the coil has both wires attached (one didn't come off), you may have blown a transistor.

Quoted from PinMonk:

I'd go back to the original targets first and make sure you didn't mess something up when you swapped them out for the clear ones.

Quoted from PinMonk:

Worth resetting everything to stock before trying to figure out what happened when you made the change. One less variable.

Quoted from PinMonk:

The reset doesn't work in test, either? (with the white post inside left on the coin door pulled out)

Quoted from PinMonk:

So if you put in a completely different node board and it didn't help it has to be a dead coil or loose/broken wire to that coil.

Quoted from PinMonk:

You need a multimeter. Do you have one?

Quoted from PinMonk:

Power off. Set the dial to ohms (might be the ohm symbol) and hold one lead on each side of the coil and see what it says.

Quoted from rx2006je:

with a probe on each lug I get 9.3 ohms

Quoted from PinMonk:

I get 9.9 ohms on the one I have here if I disconnect it (there's a plug on it on GotG that makes it convenient).

Small coil is about correct.
Turn your multimeter to continuity and with the power still off, check from Node 9, connector CN7, pin 2 to the hot side of that coil and see if there's continuity.

Quoted from PinMonk:

What about on the ground side?

Quoted from PinMonk:

Ground doesn't go back to CN7. You're probably getting a reading the other way because it's going through the machine.
This really points to either the coil or the transistor that drives it being bad, but you checked the coil resistance and it seems ok, and you put in a new node board, so it seems unlikely it has that exact transistor bad right off the bat. Not sure what else to check, except to double check the transistors in a row on the node 9 board with the multimeter and see if one of them tests bad.

Quoted from PinMonk:

Well, I don't expect you to find a dead short or it would have blown up the coil, but I'm not sure what transistors/leg arrangement are on the node boards (haven't had to fix one, knock on wood). Ask Stern, or maybe someone that knows can chime in.

Quoted from rx2006je:

Stern is sending a new coil and springs that we’re missing. Don’t see how that will fix the issue but I will play long and go down their list. Also this weekend the ball stop on the left ramp quit working, which is also in the c7 plug of the node board 9.

Quoted from PinMonk:

I forgot, do you have a multimeter? Testing continuity on the drive wire for that coil would be easy with a multimeter.

Quoted from blizz81:

Test with a jumper wire?
I had a wire break about a month in on my NIB Pro on the spinner switch.

Quoted from PinMonk:

Looking back on the thread, forgot I already had you check this:
"Turn your multimeter to continuity and with the power still off, check from Node 9, connector CN7, pin 2 to the hot side of that coil and see if there's continuity."
And you said there was continuity on the drive side.
So basically do the same thing for the ground side (one probe on each end of the ground wire on the coil in continuity check mode on the multimeter) to see if the ground wire is broken.

Quoted from PinMonk:

So it sounds like you have a broken ground wire then, probably inside the insulation so it's not visually obvious. I'd manually work all the way down that wire, tracing it from the C7 connector to the coil, looking for zip ties that are too tight or crimps. If you can find some obvious place it might have been broken inside the insulation from a too-tight zip tie or other crimp, you can cut and splice it to repair the break, then solder and shrink tube it to finish the repair.
Failing that, it's dead simple to make another ground wire run if you have the connector to put on the C7 end and a soldering iron to replace the one on the coil end.

Quoted from PinMonk:

So it sounds like you have a broken ground wire then, probably inside the insulation so it's not visually obvious. I'd manually work all the way down that wire, tracing it from the C7 connector to the coil, looking for zip ties that are too tight or crimps. If you can find some obvious place it might have been broken inside the insulation from a too-tight zip tie or other crimp, you can cut and splice it to repair the break, then solder and shrink tube it to finish the repair.
Failing that, it's dead simple to make another ground wire run if you have the connector to put on the C7 end and a soldering iron to replace the one on the coil end.

Quoted from NeonNightRide:

I have both. I had no luck fitting the tank in with the Pinstadiums. The consensus seems to be the only way to fit both in is by cutting the pinstadiums short on the left side. I ran without the tank for a few months to still get the UV effect and knew I had a choice to make once my UV kit got here. I finally got my UV kit in and installled a few days ago. I really like the Pinstadium lighting but in the end I ended up with the full Medisinyl set + UV kit.

Quoted from Ive:

Thanks to Banana-Joe for the awesome ramp decal
IMO this is the best design available as it ties in so well with the playfield art.
[quoted image]

Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Ah! A modder who makes a decal for the Demo ramp! I was thinking a decal there might be cool. I also wondered why I hadn't seen them offered in the Pinside Shops, but apparently at least one is offered and I missed it. I don't really know what the best "approach" is to a decal for this ramp. Banana-Joe has chosen the "blend-in" approach, creating an extension of the playfield art. I'm not knocking what BJ done. I assume he worked hard on it. I'm just saying I don't know if it makes the most sense to make the ramp blend in with the playfield, as the ramp sits in a separate plane. Just a thought. Again, I'm not throwing shade. I'm just thinking out loud. I apologize if that came off as "troll'y."