(Topic ID: 258046)

Stranger Things Club. Join our Party!

By chuckwurt

2 years ago

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17 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

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Post #235 Be sure to check PRO Ball Lock Post, it can come loose. Posted by chuckwurt (2 years ago)

Post #712 Replacement rubber info Posted by fooflighter (2 years ago)

Post #1273 TECH: TOYS. Projector focus adjustment instructions Posted by rs812 (1 year ago)

Post #1717 TECH: PLAYFIELD. TK Lock and deflector adjustment instructions Posted by chuckwurt (1 year ago)

Post #2052 MOD:Screen material to improve projector image quality Posted by dri (1 year ago)

Post #5955 MOD:Stranger Things action button surround and shooter plate Posted by pinballslave (1 year ago)

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#6967 1 year ago

Has anyone had issues with the ball getting hung up behind the left up ramp (see picture)? It seems to be in the section where the extra ball feature is triggered. It only happens once in a while, but when it does, it is not freed up by that feature that attempts to activate all the bumpers etc. to free stuck balls.

If I bump the machine a little (not enough to tilt), it frees up and comes down the left side.

Would this simply be an issue of needing some wax on the pinballs or playfield, or both? It's a new machine and I haven't applied any wax or cleaners etc. anywhere.

Thanks for any tips!

#6969 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Get a picture of where exactly it’s getting hung up and go from there.

Okay will do, thanks

#6979 1 year ago

Two quick questions about the TK lock adjustments - I followed the instructions in the sticky the other day on how to loosen the bolts to adjust the clearance when the ball goes through.

1. When the lock/plunger is activated, how much space should be in between the ball and the side plate when it goes up the rod and just before it passes through? I know it's not supposed to actually pinch the ball, but I made the clearance just barely big enough to let the ball go through, and most of the time it's still not working, so I'm thinking the clearance is too tight. Has anyone determined how much extra clearance is ideal to get the ball through and up to the magnet?

2. Also, how are you all testing it? Are you just rolling the ball up the ramp with the glass off? When I tried doing that it was pretty difficult to get the ball going fast enough to test.

Thanks for any tips on this!

#6981 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

1. Check that sticky post again. Towards the end I show pictures of this exact situation. Make yours look the same. Basically the ball shouldn’t even touch the rod until after it’s made the turn.
2. Glass off. Start a game and put a ball on the right flipper and shoot the shot. Keep doing that over and over.

okay thanks i'll recheck and test. Merry Christmas! btw, just loaded 1.01 and got a new high score of 217,000,000! Personal best for me so far!

#6983 1 year ago
Quoted from palacekeeper:

okay thanks i'll recheck and test. Merry Christmas! btw, just loaded 1.01 and got a new high score of 217,000,000! Personal best for me so far!

One other quick question about testing the TK lock: When testing with the glass off, do I need to "activate" the lock feature somewhere manually, so that the bar/rod is activated in the position to lock the balls? If so, where do I do that manually? Thanks!!

#6988 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Yes. The two targets on either side of the left ramp light lock.

Excellent - thanks again!

#6994 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Yes. The two targets on either side of the left ramp light lock.

I spent a couple hours today trying to get this adjusted correctly. I adjusted it per the picture provided, but it still only works once in a while. Most of the time the ball seems to stumble before making it up the ball lock mechanism/mini metal ramp, and then either goes through without sticking to the wall or rolls back down the left ramp.

I then adjusted the ball lock mechanism/mini metal ramp per the factory document that someone posted on another sticky, where the clearance was supposed to be 25/32 to 13/16, and adjusted it to 13/16 exactly. I also adjusted the height of the rod from the floor of the ramp per the document to 2", which was way off before I adjusted it, at about 1.75".

Still no joy.

So next I adjusted it again per the picture leaving just enough space for the ball to go through, but not actually measuring anything.

Still no joy.

Seems like a lost cause or I'm missing something.

Maybe it would help to understand what is supposed to happen with the ball and how that interacts with the lock lit?

One thing I notice is that the ball lock mechanism/mini metal ramp does not move over closer to the wall when the lock is lit. Is it supposed to?

Here is what basically happens when I test it: If the ball lock is lit, then I sometimes get one ball on the wall. After that, the next time it is almost like the lock mechanism is in its way and hampers the ball. Then it goes through without sticking to the wall and gets stopped by a white rod that raises through the ramp. After a few seconds, the white rod drops and lets the ball go back down the rest of the left ramp. Is that what is supposed to happen? Why is the white rod activating when assumedly the ball should be on the wall?

#6996 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

The main issues I see and mistakes made:
When measuring the distance from the back wall you’re pushing the diverter closed with your hand. Don’t do that. Close the diverter with the coil plunger behind the backboard.

Thanks Chuck - just to clarify, I did actually activate the plunger from behind. I used the TK Lock Deflector Assembly Checklist for the measurements, and cut a sheet metal screw to exactly 13/16, and then adjusted the metal deflector ramp so that it just barely held the screw. I also adjusted the bar height to exactly 2" per the document. It's worth noting, though, that with it set this way it was a bit too close, seemingly, to where it might pinch the ball. So when that didn't work, I used the picture referenced earlier as a guide and set it that way. But that didn't work either. I did not do the step that involves loosening the left ramp because I was hoping it wouldn't be necessary, but it sounds like it is.

And just now, when I was looking back at the sticky with the checklist document, I realized that I only looked at the factory checklist document and not the additional details and pictures you provided in that post. I must have only printed out that pdf and not the rest of the post. I'll go back and run through those steps next because it looks like I'm asking questions that you already answered before - my apologies for that!

I'm new to the world of modern pinball (used to play a lot growing up but nothing like the new machines out now) and really appreciate the info you've provided. Just trying to get the lock straightened out because it's such a cool feature in the game!

#7012 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

This is most likely your issue. The most important thing is getting the diverter distance right. Then pushing the ramp away from the backboard is second most important. All the steps in the guide need to be done.
No problem at all. More than happy to help because I know how much more fun the game is when everything works!
Another thing that’s not in the guide:
I took a small piece of thin plastic (laminated paper) and wrapped it in electrical tape and wedged it in between the left corner of the ramp (right below eleven’s head) and the backboard. This helped hold the ramp away from the backboard.

Okay I've redone all the steps, including moving the left ramp forward as much as possible. It didn't move much, though. I did also leave out the screw that you mentioned also. The measurements of the diverter are right on the money.

One thing I did notice is that the ramp was definitely not out in front of the back wall covering the magnet. In fact it was slightly recessed. Now, it's moved forward more, but I'm not sure if enough. If not, I'll try shimming something back there like you mentioned. Thanks!

#7014 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Next don’t worry about the measurements as much. If it’s rejecting, adjust the arm so it’s a mm or two more away from the back wall. If balls are passing through, adjust the arm a mm or two closer to the back wall.

OK, making progress. Got 2 balls in a row to lock. That's a first. I wrapped some washers in black tape and tucked two of them behind the ramp. Now it is slightly in front of the back wall. More testing....

#7016 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Awesome. Sounds like you’re getting close. When you get it all the way, they should be no doubters from a trap when the game is cold. Ball should fling up there easily.

Man I can't get a break. Two in a row worked then none after that. About half the time they are rejected and the other half they slump over the diverter and get stopped by the white rod that pops up. Hard to tell whether too close or too far from the wall. SO frustrating! The bolts are very tight so I don't think anything is moving from where I adjusted it.

#7018 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Yep very frustrating. Took me like 20 passes at the adjustments before I actually got it.
Leave the adjustments where they are. Come back later tonight when the game is cold and try again.

Ok will do. I might need to get some locktite also, because when I just checked it the gap was too narrow. I'll take a break and come back to it later. Thanks for the help and moral support

#7036 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Yep very frustrating. Took me like 20 passes at the adjustments before I actually got it.
Leave the adjustments where they are. Come back later tonight when the game is cold and try again.

Okay, I came back to this today when the machine was totally cold. I also ordered a very accurate small stainless ruler which arrived today, so I'm ready .

In testing on the cold machine today, it did lock the ball twice but the other 90% of the time the ball didn't make it onto the wall. The only good thing is that it seems to fail consistently in the same way at this point. Each time, the ball seems to sloppily go over the diverter and continue along the ramp, and then is stopped by the (still a mystery) white rod. It almost seems like it gets a little hung up at the base of the diverter, but it always makes it past it, so I'm not sure what to make of that.

Would that mean it's too far from the wall and needs to be a mm or two closer?

#7038 1 year ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

I'd set up a phone camera in slo-mo video mode so you can analyze what's happening in slo mo where it's easier to nail down the problems.

Yesterday I thought about using one of my Arlo cameras to film it, but the phone with slo-mo is even better. Thanks vireland!

#7043 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

So it’s going all the way off the end of the diverter and not being caught by the magnet? Yeah, move it a hair closer to the backboard.
But try and get a video so we can see how it’s missing.

Okay I have a .mov video from my phone in slow motion, but it won't let me attach it. Is there a way to attach a video directly or is my only option to embed with youtube or vimeo?

#7046 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Great call. I pushed mine down too. Less than 2” from the floor seems to be the sweet spot. Stern calls for 2”, but I’ve found it’s better lower than that.

Okay, here's the video link:

I got several clips but they are all pretty much exactly the same behavior...

P.S. these rulers are awesome - machined precisely, strong, no leading edge - super helpful with measuring things like this: amazon.com link »

#7048 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

The ball is stopping short. The clearance looks okay, so definitely try pushing down the diverter arm to closer than 2” from the ramp floor. Also make sure (finger engage plunger and run the ball up the diverter arm with the other hand) that the ball is on the rod and also grazing the back wall when it reaches the top.
Make sure the ball is not touching the the metal plate that is welded to the outside of the rod too. Should have a mm of clearance if the ball is riding the back wall while going up the rod.
You’re really close it looks like.

Okay thanks, I'll move the diverter lower and try that. I'll only make one adjustment at a time to make it easier to narrow down. I'll have to see if I can get another angle also - where I can see how close it is to the plate and to the wall as it goes up.

#7051 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

here’s a pic I took. See if yours looks like this. You can see, mine is not touching that plate, but is very close. [quoted image]

I fooled with this for a couple more hours today (thankfully I'm on Christmas vacation and can waste extra time on it )and made some progress, but it's honestly hard to tell whether it's dialed in correctly. I put another washer just below the magnet (per the factory document) behind the ramp to move it out more. With the better ruler, I was able to tell it was not out far enough. Now it seems to be out about 1/32" or possibly even 1/16" or so, like it is supposed to be. The diverter is just about 1/32" below 2" and the distance to the wall is right at 25/32". This seems to be about the best combination, as it sometime works a few times in a row, and I was able to lock 3 balls to the wall a few times. But then just when I think it's dialed in, I'll get a few failures in a row after that.

I'm leaving it where it is for now, and will just have to do without the feature working reliably it seems, or I may end up pulling what hair I have left out of my head. Honestly, I have a 51 year old Mustang that is less frustrating to work on than this feaure .

The only other possibility I can think of might be that after testing for 2 or more hours, that the flippers were fading a bit, but it's hard to know if that was a factor. I'll have to see if it works well after its cold again tomorrow, and if so, maybe get the fans?

Or, would it help to just turn up the power on the flippers a little? Would that compensate enough if flipper fade is the issue? It does seem like if you get a particularly good shot up the ramp with good power behind it, is when it works well. Maybe the flippers after warmed up just don't push the ball hard enough up the ramp?

#7053 1 year ago
Quoted from Flash71:

You’re divertor rod is way loose. Too much play. That sucks the energy out of the ball momentum. Tighten the nut at the base of the rod. Do not overtighten. I’ve spent a lot of time on this ( and picking chuckwurt brain)to get mine dialed in. Pulling the ramp out to much isn’t good either. You want it slightly out from the back wall. Have the divertor less then 2” from the ramp really helps as well. I turned the TK lock power all
The way up and that also dramatically increased my success locks. Finally the divertor plate when actuated should barley let the ball through and when it’s idle it should be just off the ramp. Doing all these has given me a 100% success rate with a solid shot. Also I highly recommend vireland fans. That was the finishing touch. Lmk how you make out.

Just when I was getting comfortable with failure, you send new hope my way. Thanks? I think? . Seriously, thanks for the tips, I'll try them. I assume turning up the TK lock is somewhere in the settings, but do you know which menu, offhand?

#7058 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

And yes. It should be 100% from a trap when you have it good to go. No failures what so ever. It will never miss from and inlane feed either. You can even get sloppy ones to go consistently.
EDIT - I just realized I did not put anything in the KEY POST about flipper power. I have updated that and up it right at the top. Need the flipper power at max - 255.

Okay I turned up TK lock power all the way, and the flippers were already at 255, which I assume must be the default. I also tightened the nut at the base of the deflector rod, which did seem less snug than it should have been. The deflector seems more sturdy now.

It seems at this point that if you get a ball going up the ramp with good speed, it hits the wall. But, if you get one of those times where the ball is not going as fast up the ramp, it sometimes does not have enough juice to make it onto the wall. I would assume there must be times when it won't go simply because of not enough momentum - just like those one-offs where the ball only goes halfway up the ramp because it was not a direct shot. I'll try it out again tomorrow when its cold again to see how it goes.

In the meantime, does anyone have the link for the flipper fans that you all recommend? Might as well get that going. Thanks!

#7069 1 year ago
Quoted from Break8ers:

Sounds like you are getting close---mine is now nearing 100% and everyone has a little different situation.
1. Get the fans
2. 255 flipper default
3. Moving the ramp did nothing for me--I know it helps others.
4. I adjusted diverter to sweet spot--open just enough for ball to clear--it does not touch though. No up and down needed for me. Roll the ball up with you hand at various speeds to see if you are making progress after adjustments until you hit it.
5. Wax the diverter rod and balls--it does help quite a bit actually for me. Goes up faster/smoother.
6. You are correct--weak shots probably won't make it--nor should they. Just like any game/ramp. That is a rewarding shot--you should have to execute it well to get rewarded.
7. TK power up all the way.

Thanks for the additional tips. I will say that when I removed the shim (washer) in testing, the locks went to almost never, so in my case moving the ramp forward is definitely needed. Without that step, the back wall actually sticks out past the ramp.

I think I have the height and width about right, but I could narrow the width another 1/32". I'll go back to that if it still needs some improvement in future testing. Right now I'm at 25/32".

I waxed the balls but did not think of waxing the diverter. I'll give that a try - interesting.

I also plan to order the UV kit, and I have the art blades on the way. And I guess I'll be adding the fans too, soon.

Quick question: should I wait for the UV kit to install both the art blades and UV kit at the same time? Or are they totally separate procedures to where I can install the blades now and UV kit later?

#7080 1 year ago
Quoted from BallyKISS1978:

I did art blades first because I got them first. I would do the art blades now. It’s not hard but can be a pain in the neck because of lack of space between the sides of cabinet and playfield when trying to get the art blades level and in the right position. I don’t enjoy doing them tbh.
I did mirror blades on my Monster Bash remake, Powerbladez on my Black Knight SOR premium, and Stern art blades for Stranger Things. Didn’t want to go to the extra trouble by removing the playfield since I did well on the first try and so on. But each time I did it I wished I removed the playfield.

Man I had no idea it would be so difficult to put in some art blades on the side. Guess I should have done some research first. Removing the playfield sounds very daunting!

#7091 1 year ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

It's not hard with the wet method. Here's someone doing a wet method install. Easy because it's very forgiving.

After watching the video, it doesn't look too bad at all. What type of soapy water do you use for the wet method? A little liquid dish soap?

#7093 1 year ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Yeah. I use a few drops of dawn in a spray bottle, then shake it up to mix it. You want it to be a bit sudsy so it's slick and not just damp.

Excellent, thanks!

#7094 1 year ago

While I was in there waxing the diverter rod, I decided to try some more variations - currently at 11/16" from the wall, even though it doesn't look like its pinching at all, and 1/32" below 2" in height. Thought I had it because I got 2 locks in a row. Then of course, once I put the glass back etc. back to failures. Maybe I'll try again when I get the art blades. But it's to the point where I think I just don't care about TK lock anymore, and will live with the roll of shame back down the ramp after the white rod lets it go...

#7098 1 year ago
Quoted from Break8ers:

I found it's best sometimes with the TK to just let it go for a little while and come back with a fresh perspective after the anger subsides. Keep adjusting and trying different things. Keep looking at it and sometimes it just hits you to try something or adjust different. Don't just blindly follow all the instructions and measurements---I never measured anything. They are all a little different and don't require the same fix. Just trial and error rolling the ball up the ramp--over and over- adjusting the mech until I got it pretty solid. Bend that metal guide up too.

Agreed, and that is why I set the width to 11/32", out of factory spec - because it seemed like the right width just beyond touching the ball. It's also hard to judge that though, because the weight of the ball on the rod changes it a bit and pushed the rod out. Assumedly, the factory specs are not factoring in the weight of the ball, and the pictures certainly don't show a ball on there while measuring.

To your point, I've tried literally every suggestion so far, and I'm maybe at a 50% success rate. I also think there is a slight break-in after adjusting (someone else mentioned this earlier and I agree with them), because several times I've gotten repeated success followed by repeated failure. The problem with that is that its hard to tell what changed after the break-in. Logically, you'd think that the change would be a slight give in either height, width, or both of the diverter. But at the same time, I've noticed that those 4 bolts really hold the diverter tight. If the screws are not really loose, I can't even move it by hand, so it seems like it would not give at all.

I think I'm going to do some slo-mo recordings again also because that was really helpful earlier. I had gotten two 3 locks in a row, and then of course, repeated failures again.

I agree with your advice and I'll take a break. It's hard for me because I'm a bit of a perfectionist with these things, and maybe I should have researched the known issues before selecting a machine. I'm sure all models have their own glitches, though. So much mechanics involved, plus the constant friction of play - it's inevitable. Like my obsessive chasing down of fluid leaks in my '70 Mustang, I finally had to settle for an occasional oil drip - almost perfect but not quite. In this scenario, we have modern technology involved, but these machines do use a lot of mechanical parts that get beat up by the ball in play.

Honestly, with this issue being so wide spread and visible, it seems to me that a TSB would be in order from Stern. Perhaps a small redesign of some sort to widen the tolerance but still allowing the TK lock to work correctly? With mechanical parts like this, it should be more tolerant of variances and still be able to work, imho.

#7102 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Contact stern for a different left ramp cover. It’s adjustable. I didn’t need it but they say it helps. They also have updated PDFs for more tweaks to do but it’s essentially everything we’ve already tried.
Contact stern support if you want to get any of it. They’ve been very slow to respond to me though.

Thanks Chuck, I'll definitely open a ticket with Stern on this. Maybe the ramp cover will help in my case. I would encourage others reading this who have not been able to get the TK lock working correctly to also open tickets. The more tickets that are opened will increase visibility and the odds for a fix.

#7112 1 year ago

I noticed two other minor details this morning, but I doubt they will make any difference:

1. The white rod was misaligned from moving the left ramp in earlier adjustments. I left the shims in the back but adjusted the ramp a bit more so that the white rod was not partially obstructed. The rod always worked, but maybe over time could have been an issue if it kept hitting the underneath of the ramp. And since I seem to get the white rod far more often than the back wall lock, I figured I better adjust it.

2. I also decided to remove the small decorative plastic piece that hides the deflector, so that I could hold the ruler perfectly straight when measuring (it was in the way a little). That made a tiny difference, but only was off about 1/64". So, I'm back to 25/32" per factory specs. I'm leaving it alone at this point and opening the case because all the measurements are exactly as directed in the factory sheet, and that is the first thing they'll want to verify, I'm sure.

#7130 1 year ago

Is there a way to disable the match thing after each game? Don’t need it in free play mode. Tried setting match to zero percent and turned off free game award but no effect. Thanks!

#7138 1 year ago
Quoted from Flash71:

In the settings there is a match percentage setting. Setting it to off will eliminate the match animation at the end of the game.

that did the trick, thanks!

#7252 1 year ago

Also, is there a factory adjustment document similar to the one for the TK lock? One that shows measurements etc. for the demogorgon?

#7281 1 year ago

I've never played the Pro, but I can't imagine not having the projector. There are so many places where the projector adds live content, and the center screen is constantly changing - just awesome! You really start to realize how much the projector adds when you adjust all the projector angles in the settings, and see all the places it adds video. I couldn't care less about the white ramps when the machine is off.

I spent my share of time on the TK lock issue, but I will say this after working on it. I will probably still request the adjustable ramp to get it as perfect as possible. If fast shots are not making it on the wall, get a video in slo mo and adjust it. But, I think it's fair to say that simply because of the physics, you have to have a decent shot up the ramp in order to expect it to lock on the back wall. I have mine at the point to where when I have what I consider to be a very good shot up the ramp, it works fine. I'm betting that to some degree, the TK lock has unfairly gotten a bad rap because there is an unreasonable expectation that every shot up the ramp should hit the wall - and not only do I think that is not the case, but I don't think it was designed for that either, since the ramp has the white rod that temporarily holds the ball on shots where it doesn't hit the wall.

All in all, I'd say that we definitely want to dial it in so that on good shots we get the ball on the wall, but don't expect slower shots up the ramp to cut it. And in a way, it adds a bit of challenge to the game, because if you want to get it on the wall you know you have to get a better shot up the ramp. And honestly, I don't want a softball game either. I don't want the machine making it too easy because then I'll get bored with it. Same with the Demogorgon - I might adjust it a little but I don't want to make it too easy either.

#7283 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

I think this is pretty true, but they definitely could code the game better to compensate for balls that miss the magnet. If the ball takes too long to get to the ramp opto at the post, you don’t get credit for anything.

Oh ok. I don't think I've run into that. Whenever the ball does not get onto the wall, the ball waits at the white rod and the machine says ball locked etc., just as it would if it were too hit the wall.

#7330 1 year ago

Does anyone have a video on removing the playfield from the Premium? I want to install the art blades soon, and I'm trying to decide whether to do the wet method or remove the playfield. I'm leaning towards removing it if it's not too involved, just to make the art blade install easy. Thanks!

#7332 1 year ago
Quoted from finnflash:

It is not connected to anything, except the wire harness. Get a second person, use the handle in the back of the playfield and lift it out. I leaned it on one side of the cab to make sure I didn't pull the wires too much, that's it really.

that was going to be my next question - where to lay it down because of all the wires underneath. So it's safe to just basically lay it on it's side, maybe against a wall?

#7335 1 year ago
Quoted from C0untDeM0net:

2 paint cans work well if you have them laying around. The front sits on the service rails and the rear corners on the cans.

excellent idea, thanks!!

#7415 1 year ago

has anyone ordered the demogorgon ramp decal from cointaker? I was thinking about adding that.

#7431 1 year ago

cool thanks. I'll get the one from tilt graphics.

#7432 1 year ago
Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:

Thanks bro. Ordered a premium kit from Cointaker. Shows backordered, but they seem to be the only place that is allowing purchase of premium kits. All others show out of stock.

Thanks for the tip. Just called them and Melissa said she doesn't have a date yet but is expecting 20 to come in the next round. She doesn't think it will be all that long for the next batch to arrive. I went ahead and ordered one, and verified of course, that it was Stern OEM.

#7433 1 year ago
Quoted from C0untDeM0net:

2 paint cans work well if you have them laying around. The front sits on the service rails and the rear corners on the cans.

Did the art blades yesterday. Really appreciate all the tips - the paint cans worked perfectly. The only thing that was a little bit of a pita was that ethernet cable that runs all the way up to the top board. Had to follow that up and cut the wire ties to get that disconnected. Other than that, very easy.

I still did the wet method, even though I had the playfield out. Just less room for error. The whole thing turned out great. Thanks again!

#7502 1 year ago
Quoted from Joeymonkey:

Yes, flippers at 255. Will order the fans and contact Stern about the ramp cover. And I’ll keep futzing with the diverter and Ramos in the meantime. Thanks.

I'm probably not qualified to be giving advice on this yet, but I think mine is pretty close to being dialed in. The single biggest thing that helped the most was to take a slo mo video of the ball going up the diverter. You can really see more detail about what is happening when it goes up (pinching vs. too wide or not enough momentum). It appeared that the ball was not getting pinched because it was still spinning near the top of the diverter and then dropped back down. In my case, the biggest adjustment that helped the most was to put a washer wrapped in black tape behind the ramp. I did it in two places - in the corner under Eleven's face and also further over right under the magnet. My ramp was back too far and the washer pushed it out enough so that it was slightly in front of the back wall.

Mine works most of the time but I factor in that also sometimes it's not a good enough shot. You can't expect slower or sloppy shots to make it, necessarily.

#7511 1 year ago
Quoted from Joeymonkey:

Thank you for the tip! I just tried something similar, actually used the spacer from the Demogorgon behind ramp to move it out. And I hit three locks in a row for TK multi ( first one with the balls on back of machine). Not sure if it will work every time, but so excited to see them lock.

Just passing along tips from other folks who helped me out with this. Awesome to hear you got it working!!

#7547 12 months ago
Quoted from PinPickle:

The only other thing I would check is your diverter itself. With the plunger pressed on the back and the arm actuated, give the diverter a wiggle and check the play. Min was incredibly loose and once it tightened it up (still has play and moves freely) it helped a bunch.
Its tricky to get at but you can do it without removing everything.
Use 3/8” (if I remember correctly) wrench to hold the bolt underneath and bent needle nose or vice grips to turn the black hex screw.
I believe chuckwurt had an issue with this as well. His was gunked up from the washer and he applied some lubricant to get it to work a little more smoothly as well. I don’t know if he put blue lock tight on that bolt.
Goodluck[quoted image][quoted image]

I just realized, from your pictures, that the nut that I tightened earlier was not the one in this picture. I tightened the one at the base of the diverter, not the black one, and it wasn't loose, really. I'll go back and check the black one also when I get a chance. Every little bit helps - thanks!

#7554 12 months ago
Quoted from PinPickle:

Agreed. Wish they came out with a fix though. Other than a ramp cover. Unless that is the actual magic cure.

I say a TSB with a replacement mechanism of some sort would be the best thing - wishful thinking, I'm sure. Like maybe if the floor of the ramp lifted up under the magnet? Like a reverse trap door, of sorts. Would be foolproof, even on slower shots.

#7598 11 months ago
Quoted from IronMan8Bit:

I wanna like this game, but these issues are wearing on me. I've installed the new plastic piece and although it has helped it's still not even 90% of the time more like 60% and I still have the issue of it falling short.
How good of a shot would be considered an actual attempt? I keep barely adjusting it to get as low as it can go without letting the ball just glide by the guide.
I put a piece or plastic behind the ramp to get it to pop out a little more that has helped, but it just wildly inconsistent. I'll go 3 for 3 and then 3 for 5, 3 for 3, 2 for 5 and so on.
How perfect of a shot does it need to be?
Also I spent about about 2-3 hours putting washers on the demo to lean him forward more and still isn't good enough. Just dreading having to pull it apart again to dial it in.
Again for the demo shot is it expected to hit it in the hole on just about every controlled shot?
If I add in a flipper rubber like people suggested it does work better, but really this is the long term solution for this??? So over it.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Just got confirmation from Pablo that my ramp cover is ordered. Thanks for posting pics of the instructions. Mine still needs improvement as well - lately probably 25% at best.

From the instructions, it sounds like when the ball doesn't make it all the way up the diverter, that the suspected cause is that it's hitting the ramp cover. Has anyone confirmed that? I'll try to get a different angle slo mo to see if mines hitting the cover. Actually, I hope it is. I have everything else set to factory specs so there is hope.

#7616 11 months ago
Quoted from Joeymonkey:

Man, I just looked at your collection. When this Covid thing is behind us I need to come over and play some of those awesome pins!!
And, thanks for everyone's help! I think it worked! I am making some more adjustments, but the first TK lock is consistently hitting. Now the second and third are iffy but I think it's the diverter arm is too close to the ball on the wall. But this is a big help. If you haven't done so, contact Stern and ask for this new cover!

Got confirmation from Pablo yesterday that my cover is ordered. Encouraging to hear it made a difference! I also just received my ramp decal from Tilt Graphics (the nightmare one). Once I'm back under the hood, I'm going to re-measure the distance that the ramp is out from the back wall. I might have it out too much, I'm thinking. It's pretty difficult to get an accurate measurement on that.

#7619 11 months ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Once you understand what the adjustments do, you should dial your game to fit your situation. Remember every millimeter makes a difference. It might be that your game needs to be a mm or so off of what the guide says.

Okay so I did another slo mo video, this time directly overhead. For some reason on my iphone it is playing back full speed - not sure what the issue is there and I tried it twice to make sure I had selected slo mo. In any case, I advanced it manually on the phone very slowly, and from what it looks like, the ball is traveling up the diverter and when it nears the top, the diverter opens back up, causing the ball to drop. I'll see if I can get a slo mo copy of it to work, but from what it looks like, if the diverter were to just give the ball a little more time, it would have made it. That could be fixed with a code change... There is no reason that I can think of where it would be a problem to keep the diverter towards the wall a little longer. Even a split second longer would have allowed the ball to continue up. The only reason it dropped was because the diverter opened up. Thoughts?

#7621 11 months ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

The ball is taking too long to get to the end or the diverter. It’s being impeded by something. The ramp cover or the diverter itself.

Okay, got the slo mo working - video link attached. Now that I look at the video again, I agree, Chuck. It does seem like the ball loses momentum going up, so I'm not sure more time would matter in this case. It does look like the diverter wiggles quite a bit, so it may also be that I need to tighten it more.

#7624 11 months ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Some play in the diverter arm is fine. It looks like the ball is contacting the diverter arm before it makes the turn in the ramp. The ball shouldn’t touch the diverter arm until it’s past the bend.
[quoted image]
This is the point at which the ball should first contact the the diverter arm.
Try bending the diverter arm down more.

Okay I'll try that next, thanks. Here's a pic of where it first contacts the diverter. You can see it move the diverter when it hits it here

2021-01-27_22-54-25 (resized).jpg
#7625 11 months ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

It looks like it's coming in high and hitting the metal guide on top on the "bad" side that robs momentum (you can hear it and see the metal guide vibrate). Can you lift that up so it clears the inverted peak in that part?

Not sure what you mean. Lift what up, exactly?

#7628 11 months ago
Quoted from killborn:

Also, it looks like the ball dies and the diverter arm gets pushed out away from the wall a very tiny bit at about this point in my picture below. That's where the ball meets the transition point between the back of the ramp and the back plastic. Your ramp might need to be pulled out a little more.
[quoted image]

Awesome! Okay, so next I will:

1. Move the ramp out a bit more.
2. Push the diverter down a bit more.
3. Bring the diverter in slightly more.

chuckwurt - Quick question about bringing the diverter in: I noticed that the weight of the ball pushes the diverter out a bit when you are measuring the distance. Did you set the width with the total weight of the ball on the diverter, or were you holding the ball? It looks like you are only barely holding it with your thumb. If that is the case, then the total weight of the ball is on the diverter in that picture. In mine, I held the ball when setting that distance, so my diverter is probably set way too far out!

#7637 11 months ago

Thanks everyone for the additional info. Definitely seems like I'll need to push the arm down more, and also bring the diverter in more - both of which might be a little out of factory specs, but as many have pointed out - each machine is slightly different and these tolerances vary.

My ramp cover arrives tomorrow so I'll make these changes over the weekend and report back. Thanks again.

#7648 11 months ago

Okay so I received the adjustable ramp cover today and just got done installing it. I was 9/9 on the wall with the glass off, and 10/12 with the glass on playing normally. The two that didn't make it were questionable on speed, so I'm feeling like it's finally dialed in!

A few lessons learned to share:

In my case, I used the new instructions and started over. I went through all the measurements and removed the shim/washer from behind the ramp etc. to start with a clean slate. I installed the cover with the screws in the middle and followed all the included instructions to the letter.

1. I ended up having to still put something behind the ramp to push it out some more.
2. My diverter is less than 2" in height and out of factory specs - per feedback received earlier, but this is where it needed to be.
3. The resting position of the diverter was off, so I adjusted that - although that should not affect the TK lock. It only potentially affects the ball when lock is not active.
4. I ended up having to move the cover all the way to the left before I was successful.
5. I had to remove El from above the ramp cover (just 2 screws, no big deal) in order to get to the left back corner screw. Just too tight on space without removing it, even though the instructions did not mention this as a needed step.
6. There is a tiny washer in the envelope along with the ramp cover. Be careful not to throw it away. I almost did by accident.

Next up, I'm thinking I'll tackle the Demogorgon, but I'll wait until the UV light kit arrives.

Thanks to Chuck and everyone else that helped. Fingers crossed but I think it's finally dialed in. I even went back and played a few extra times and the ball would lock every time on the wall, except once in a while with a weak shot up the ramp, which is by design.

#7661 11 months ago
Quoted from RobT:


Thanks Chuck and Boob.
Probably going to sell a pin to make room for a premium.

Let me also add that while I did spend more time than anticipated dialing it in (first pin I've owned), it was totally worth it. The game is great! Also, with forums like this with so much help and support, you will get it tweaked. Keep in mind that many of the hours spend by Chuck and others went toward the making of the new adjustable cover (safe assumption that Stern was paying attention). Because of that, if you follow the new instructions, you probably have it dialed in much sooner than that. I got mine dialed in yesterday evening - didn't time it but probably 2-3 hours total, being super careful with screws, etc. Following the steps, I still had to lower the diverter and put a small shim behind the ramp to push it out a bit, but I had the advantage to already knowing that. Starting from scratch, if you follow the new instructions that come with the adjustable cover, then tweak as needed with the additional info that Chuck and others provided on this thread, you'll be good to go. It just took a while for lessons learned, and Stern to come out with the new part based on that feedback.

#7679 11 months ago

Can anyone make any recommendations on the mylar and/or playfield protectors. I was not aware of the mylar but saw it recently in this thread, and I saw another thread where the playfield protectors were problematic. I also saw other threads recommending carnuba wax etc. and Pablo recommended waxing after 500 plays.

I'm probably getting close to 500 and definitely want to protect the playfield properly, but not negatively affect game play. What is the consensus on this? Thanks

#7691 11 months ago
Quoted from Break8ers:

I would say no on the playfield protector--not really needed and can affect game play also. Mylar in possible trouble spots--yes absolutely. I wax with carnuba quite often--probably more than most. I like the look (shine) and the game plays faster. Before I waxed--especially the first time-- I would clean the playfield with Novus 2 and then wax it. It looks awesome. Don't be scared off by people thinking its too abrasive. It's very mild and you would have to use it a 1000 times to even come close to seeing anything negative. In other words it will never happen.

Thanks. Several people commented earlier that mylar should be done right away. Is there a kit that is generally recommended?

#7698 11 months ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Nope. I just buy large rolls and cut to size.
For this game I put it down in the shooter lane and around the left saucer.

Got it, thanks.

#7699 11 months ago
Quoted from Coz:

I never bought the uv kit. Are these still available?

Yes but they are out of stock with a lengthy backorder. I talked to cointaker earlier this week to check on my order, and Stern is way behind due to about 1/3 staffing on making accessories because of COVID restrictions. Her best estimate was realistically March for my order to be shipped. Last I checked cointaker's site was taking backorders but that was a month ago or so. You might still be able to backorder one but you'd probably have to call and see if you can order it over the phone. The good news is that it sounds like Stern is still making them, but they are just way behind.

#7701 11 months ago

There's one on Ebay, NIB, but it's for the Pro edition.

1 week later
#7884 11 months ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

He’s usually pretty sharp. Matter of fact he got off the phone with stern just before talking to me. April for the topper. And yes mid-end march for the UV kit. Last run of UV kits apparently.

Yikes. I ordered mine on cointaker on January 15th and have been waiting for the next batch to come in. Hopefully they will at least fulfill the backorders!!

#7885 11 months ago
Quoted from palacekeeper:

Yikes. I ordered mine on cointaker on January 15th and have been waiting for the next batch to come in. Hopefully they will at least fulfill the backorders!!

I'll quote myself on this one. Just spoke with Melissa at cointaker, and she said that if you were one of the ones who backordered the kit on their site, then it is part of the next order that they are waiting to get from Stern - 40 of them, apparently. Currently, their site is not accepting any new backorders. So bottom line is that they only accepted backorders for as many as they had ordered from Stern. I feel better

#7959 11 months ago

Just received the dice shooter rod today. The only instructions with it were to remove the 3 screws and swap it out. However it came with other wiring. Assumedly it needs to be connected in somewhere to light it up. Anyone have a more detailed instruction sheet that includes whatever wiring connections are needed? Thanks!

#7965 11 months ago
Quoted from Blackzarak:

We’re did you get your dice shooter from ? I’m assuming it’s the stern version right?

Yes, it's the Stern version. Got it from gameroom goodies. Last I checked, they still had some in stock if you're interested.

#7966 11 months ago
Quoted from brerspidur:

I wired mine up right here. Inside coin door to the left.
[quoted image]

what did you have to do to "wire it up"?

#7968 11 months ago
Quoted from brerspidur:

Just plugged in to the board. . . Its been a while, I'll take a closer look when I get home tonight

Thanks I appreciate it. I guess there is an aux connection on the board that you use for accessories? My first pin...

#7970 11 months ago
Quoted from brerspidur:

So the plunger has 2 black wires going to a connector. Then from that connector, I ran it behind the coin tray to the board. And it plugs into the pictured slot on the board. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Makes sense, plugs into “spare leds”. Thanks very much for the additional pics/assistance, really appreciate it!

#7982 11 months ago

Quick question - the white cover popped off of one of the targets by the left ramp. I see that there are spares in the accessory bag that came with the machine, but the one that fell off seems fine and just needs to be put back on.

Is there any particular type of glue that should be used, or any glue such as crazy glue is okay?

#7992 11 months ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Do not add glue. Wipe the target off with alcohol and put one of the replacements on it.

Okay thanks. I was just trying to preserve the one that fell off, if possible. Since it seems we are on borrowed time for accessories etc., and these are unique to accommodate the projector... I'll use one from the bag, but I'll save the old one, just in case. Thanks

#7995 11 months ago

Excellent. Thanks Chuck, as always, super helpful and very much appreciated.

#7997 11 months ago
Quoted from theadicts77:

I can't find one of these anywhere. Nobody is selling in Europe. And a NIB Premium is north of $9500. Might have to cave in as i am getting more impatient by the day.

I was just on cointaker, and they seem to have ST Premium in stock: https://cointaker.com/products/stranger-things-pinball-stern-premium

Not sure if they ship to Europe though.

#7998 11 months ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

No problem. For example. Part # 802-5000-Q2
Is the complete set of decals for all the projector surfaces. $95. I bought this as a backup to all my stuff since I plan to have this game for a very long time.

Which distro did you order from? I got a part number from Pablo of 502-7125-00 and he said that I'd need to order through a distro.

#8000 11 months ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

That’s probably an individual part in that whole kit that I bought. I went through my distro.

Pablo said it was the part number for the accessory bag that came with the game - spare stickers etc. I also talked to Marco Specialties and they had nothing in their database for the part number he gave me.

For my distro, just call one from the Stern site?

#8002 11 months ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

That’s not what I ordered or bought. I ordered and bought ALL the projector surfaces. The goodie bag is only the target surfaces.
I messaged my distro. The distro I bought the game from. If you didn’t do that, I’m sure any of them would help you.

Ahh okay thanks. I had talked to AGS in Maryland, which is who I bought it from, but he doesn't apparently deal with those types of parts. I'll check with him using the part number you used instead, or maybe Marco, who AGS referred me to, and apparently have a ton of these types of things.


#8047 11 months ago
Quoted from haveaniceswim:

I’m in the club! Unboxed my NIB Premium on Saturday. Before buying I familiarized myself with this thread and all the issues this game has had since first shipping. I’ve been playing it almost non stop since I got it.
The TK lock works maybe 50%. I’ve decided to wait until I get the new plastic piece to attack that issue.
The demo mouth shot is 0%. A good shot that should go in the mouth usually ends up hitting the demo and then hitting the glass.
The saucer (left eject) hits the two right drops, when they’re not there, bangs into the post and SDTM about 40%. The other 60% you can save, barely.
The outlanes are brutal!!! Factory set at wide open, two fresh holes visible but unused. (I know, play better!!!)
So today I decided to tackle some of the issues.
1. Moved the outlane post to the easiest hole. My average ball time is now at least double what it was.
2. Tightened the metal piece over the saucer really tight. Decided not to bend the metal just yet. The eject now hits just the right target and if the drop target’s not there, it goes up the Burn it Back lane a little bit, and comes back without going around the orbit. At least no more SDTM.
3. Tried the flipper rubber trick under the demo. It raised the demo so high that the coil couldn’t shake it. Removed the rubber.
4. Tried the elastic method on the demo. Raised the back of the base 1/4”. Still couldn’t hit the mouth. Tightened the elastic, now 1/2” higher than without elastic. Perfect shots now hit the mouth! Yay! Coil can’t reach the base so Demo doesn’t shake anymore. Boo!
So I’m gonna play it like this until I get the TK fix and while I’m tearing things apart, will remove the demo and put washers to raise the back and get rid of the elastic. I will bend the saucer metal to try to get it around the orbit then too.
Does anybody know if my demo fix is normal? 1/2” seems like a lot of washers. My build date was March, 2020. Were they still shipping defective ramps then or was the problem fixed by then?

regarding the outlane posts, are you talking about the post on the edge near the top of the outlane? Move that down? I could use a bit of handicap...

#8052 11 months ago
Quoted from haveaniceswim:

That’s the one. They predrilled 3 holes and installed the post in the worst one for me and my kids and grandkids. Move it to the easiest unless you’re a fantastic player or a masochist...

Excellent, I’ll try that today, thanks. My high scores are embarrassingly low and I do tend to lose the balls quickly down those lanes. Sometimes the ball almost seems like it goes immediately down those lanes which creates a very short game. I can keep things going very well on other parts of the playfield, but those lanes are killers!

#8061 11 months ago
Quoted from haveaniceswim:

That’s the one. They predrilled 3 holes and installed the post in the worst one for me and my kids and grandkids. Move it to the easiest unless you’re a fantastic player or a masochist...

Wow, what a difference! So much more fun to play until I get better at keeping the ball out of the outlanes. A bit of a pita to get the posts loosened, especially under the right ramp, but worth it!

Stuff like this makes me wish the machine came with a more thorough owner's manual. I guess there is a lot of assumptions that most people that buy these machines are veterans, and already know about these types of adjustments, but for those new to the hobby and first owners for a home game room, it would really be helpful. Thank goodness for this forum!

#8062 11 months ago
Quoted from PinPickle:

Your very welcome Joey! I’m glad you’re dialed in!!

Getting ready to attempt mine this weekend. Did a slo mo video and mine is hitting too low so I think all I need is to remove the spacers, from what others have mentioned.

1. For the connector that needs to be unplugged, are we referring to the dark colored wire that goes up into the bottom of the demo through the hole in the playfield?

2. Does anyone have any details on steps to remove the plastics to get to the wood screw holding it down?

#8064 11 months ago
Quoted from PinPickle:

It’s been a little while since I have taken mine off and I don’t remember the power cable. Once you have it loosened up you will see where the cable connects and it’s simple to unplug it. I may have left mine in. Either way it was a non issue so I wouldn’t worry about it.
Here are some photos of the screws you need to remove. Hope it helps. They my not show up in the proper order.
Take some before photos and a video just in case you forget how it goes back together but it’s fairly straight forward even for a noob.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

THANK YOU! It's Miller time, so I'll probably tackle this tomorrow

#8170 11 months ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

You don’t want that adjustment screw in the game anyway so leave that out.
You need to take out all the screws that hold on the entrance half of the ramp. Push it towards the player as much as possible. Don’t forget the ramp flap screws.
Once that is done, it’s recommended to wedge something in between the back wall and the left corner of the ramp to help push it out more (underneath Elevens head) I used a piece of laminated paper wrapped in electrical tape. Doesn’t need to be more than one inch by one inch in size and thickness it probably only a 1/4 of an inch at most. Just need something to hold the ramp out more. The update instructions in the key post detail how the ramp should be put from the back wall when done.

It also seems to matter where you put the shim behind the ramp. When I was testing it out, the best location for me was right under the magnet. Farther to the left or right and it didn't work as well. When I moved the shim (in my case, washers covered with black tape) to the left it wouldn't make it up to the wall. When I moved it to the right, the ball would fly past the magnet. Right under the magnet, and it's working great. I'm sure it varies from machine to machine, but you may want to experiment with where you put the shim behind the ramp to get the best results.

#8242 10 months ago

Does anyone know where the option is to adjust how far the center screen lowers onto the playfield? I'm pretty sure I saw it somewhere before but I can't find it now...

#8245 10 months ago

Just wanted to send a shout out to Pinpickle for his help with adjusting the demo. It's PERFECT now. Not too easy but at the correct height . With mine just had to remove the spacers but some of those screws were a real pita to remove and put back. Just have to be patient. Be careful also to watch what you are doing. I put too much pressure on the screen accidentally and bent it a little, had to bend it back. Luckily it was fine. THANKS PINPICKLE!!

#8253 10 months ago

Here are a few more pictures from removing the spacers to adjust the Demogorgon lower. The front part of the left ramp had to be removed completely, so make sure to note where the two wire connectors go through the playfield so that you can put them back correctly. As mentioned earlier, there are 2 bolts/nuts under the playfield that bolt down the demo. There is also one wood screw on the top of the playfield that holds it down. Once you move the plastics out of the way by removing screws referenced in earlier posts, you'll see this screw. One of the screws that needed to be removed in order to reach the wood screw is pretty much under the ramp in that area and is hard to get to. The first picture shows that wood screw. In the second picture I have the screwdriver on that wood screw to show how you have to get it in between things. Once you remove the little black screw on the decorative plastic strip, you can get the screwdriver in between there but it's tight. After removing the wood screw, the demo comes out easily by removing the bolts/nuts under the playfield. I did not have to disconnect the wire, and I only used the two bolts/nuts to put the demo back in. As others mentioned, the wood screw (first picture) is not really needed afterwards since the bolts/nuts underneath are plenty sufficient to hold it down.

The last picture shows the 2 spacers that needed to be removed. I also had to remove the gate with the little black bumper on top which is right under the front of the demo (one screw and one nut/bolt to remove it), and remove the black bumper and screw from the gate, and then put the gate back on without the black bumper. If you don't do that the demo won't move properly and will sit on top of the black bumper. You may want to use a magnetic screwdriver for some of these screws if you have one - helps a lot and makes it easier to put them back. I also used one of those mini flashlights with the magnet, as I inevitably dropper a few screws here and there and it made it easy to retrieve them.

Again - thanks to Pinpickle for all the guidance on getting through these steps!

2021-02-27_11-51-05 (resized).jpg2021-02-27_11-53-38 (resized).jpg2021-02-27_11-54-50 (resized).jpg
1 week later
#8493 10 months ago

Quick question on the TK Lock. Has anyone been able to lock the ball on TK lock using the left flipper? I'm 100% with any correct shot with the right flipper, but in my case maybe it's the angle and/or velocity from the left flipper and I haven't seen any locks from that side. I'm thinking that is probably normal and expected, but just curious what others have seen with the left flipper.

#8495 10 months ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

The laws of physics prevent this from being possible.

Thanks Chuck, that's what I figured, but just double checking. Now all I need is to get the UV kit that I ordered back in mid January, and I'll be good to go. With the TK lock and demo working properly now, the game has really come alive and is really addictive!

#8525 10 months ago
Quoted from Munsters:

Do you mean bend the side or up

Were you able to adjust the gate tension? Mine is doing the same thing, but in looking at it from the top, I don't see where to make the adjustment. I guess that likely means removing stuff again

#8546 10 months ago
Quoted from Munsters:

Ive bend the metal tab up, hard to see but you can feel it. This tab push the gate down. Thanks to chuckwurt and it has not occurred again.

Okay thanks. I'll check that out.

#8561 10 months ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

LOL!!! That's what I had said too. And then changed my mind last week. I figured I'd get time to tweak it so that when all the add-ons come in I could just add them and continue playing. Turns out no tweaking was necessary. Everything works as intended but flipper fade is a reality on this game - reminds me so much of LOTR. Ordered my flipper cooling kit.

I thought they were out of stock? I looked on pinside and on pinmonk's page and both show sold out. I need to get one also because I really noticed the fade the other night after playing for about 2 hours.

#8580 10 months ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Does anyone own the Pro and prefer the prem/LE or vice versa?
Also I think what the projector could use is a a better projector itself. I don’t know anything about them, but I doubt stern went with a really good one. Might be worth looking in to.

Chuck makes a good point. Honestly, everyone wants to feel good about the decision they made for whatever model they chose. Most of the pro folks are naturally going to say "yeah projector is no big deal and overpriced" while most of the prem folks are going to say "man can't live without the projector, really makes the game". It's a debate that will never be resolved. Everyone makes their own decision, own it.

It's like cars - the reason there are so many options, trim levels, models etc. is because the value judgments vary so much. Stern is just giving us those choices.

#8668 10 months ago
Quoted from Batedogg:

I'd be interested to check that out!

I bought mine at Tilt Graphics, but it's not there anymore: https://www.tiltgraphicsinc.com/stranger-things

The measurements were a little off but it still looks good. I heard that the original ramps were a little smaller, and on the newer builds the ramp is slightly bigger. Maybe Tilt is working on creating new ones that are slightly larger? I'd give them a call and ask about it. They had about 4 different ones to choose from.

#8690 10 months ago

So I bought this decals set to have replacements for all the projector screens. It was $95 from stern. I didn’t realize it was going to have ALL the decals in the game. Haha

Can anyone recommend a specific distro/phone number that carries this? I'd like to order it also, but the places I called earlier had no record of the part number. thx.

#8692 10 months ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

No distros will have it. Stern did. Just order it directly from them through a distro.

Apologies, but I don't know what you mean when you say "through a distro". Do I just email Pablo, or is there a phone number I can actually call?

#8705 10 months ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

If you need to order parts from stern they won’t sell to you directly. You have to go through a distributor. Call one or email one to help you if you didn’t buy your game from one.
Link above works too.

Thanks, I ordered the machine from a local arcade place, not a distributor. Appreciate the clarification.

1 week later
#8941 10 months ago

Just ordered the topper from cointaker.com. Back in January, I barely got my order submitted in time for the UV light kit. Don't want to risk missing out on the topper.

As an FYI, get 'em while they're hot. Melissa said they won't be taking backorders because they don't know yet whether Stern will do another run or not. So, cointaker has them on their site at the moment, but only the amount they were told they are getting from Stern. They are not actually in stock yet, but she expects to receive them in the next several days.

#8948 10 months ago

Does anyone know when Pinmonk's fans will be back in stock?

#8967 10 months ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

I had a few brackets break at the junction between the fan box surround and the stand for the R&M and jjGnR kits that were out, and that's the bracket I was moving the Spike kits to, so I've redesigned the bracket and have it out being tested. The 1.0 bracket was rock solid on Spike, so I may go back to that until I get some more real world time with the v2.5 bracket and make sure it's strong enough for the long haul on Spike. Also, vibration (I think) caused some fans to fail with one or both leads breaking off the circuit board with the 2.0 bracket, so the stiffer 2.5 bracket should help that. R&M and jjGnR have more severe shaker motors, so looking to reinforce the leads as well.
Anyway, Spike kits should be back in the store one way or the other next week.

Thanks, looking forward to it!

#8990 10 months ago
Quoted from mbrave77:

i havent heard the greatest things about pinballs.com. Have you had a good experience? I wonder why everyone is sold out and then he has all models...

little shop of games has it in stock, according to their website. I just ordered some spare parts from them and they seemed like a decent site. others on this forum have used them also.


#9053 9 months ago

Does anyone have any crash course recommendations for mylar? This is my first pin, and I keep hearing people talk about it and how it's recommended. Any general pics/recommendations for this particular game, as well as where to order it (other than "my distro")? I don't want to just order a roll and then randomly stick it places without knowing the repercussions. Thanks!

#9055 9 months ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

It’s recommended to wax the area before applying. It will make it easier to remove later if needed.
I buy mine by the roll from here:
Here is where I applied Mylar to my game:
Around the edge of the left saucer, the shooter lane, and I put another layer on the Mylar that is on the playfield where the ramp contacts when down.

Excellent - thanks Chuck!

In looking at their site, they have a few sizes, and the mylar says its 2 mils or .002". That's the one, right?

#9077 9 months ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Where are you seeing different sizes? I only see one. The options are for how much of the Mylar you want. I buy the full roll and it lasts years and years. Haha

I meant different sizes as far as a sheet, half roll, or full roll, but they are all the same thickness. Was just making sure I had the right item. Thanks again...

#9090 9 months ago
Quoted from Mudflaps:

My topper just shipped, boys.

Nice. who did you order from? Ordered mine from cointaker but haven't heard anything yet.

#9099 9 months ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Right 255 (full)
Left 235

chuckwurt - You use 235 instead of full on the left? Is that to improve shots at the demo?

#9107 9 months ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Yup. It’s the lowest I could put the flipper power and still be able to consistently hit the demo mouth. I bet I could go lower now that I have the flipper fans on my game.

Excellent, thanks!

#9143 9 months ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Yep. Timed with the shaker it definitely adds to the experience.

Not sure if this is what you meant, but it's more challenging when it shakes (which adds to the fun), because if you shoot the ball at it while it's shaking, it's harder to make the shot.

#9154 9 months ago

I guess the problem, and the reason this seems to come up over and over again, is because new folks join the conversation looking for advice on which one to purchase and to attempt to determine the best choice for them. Maybe we should have a sticky or something that outlines the differences, with no emotions attached, and then refer those questions to the sticky. It's a religious argument almost, that will never be solved because its simply a matter of opinion and value judgment.

For me, personally, I have other things I've bought that are way more expensive, potentially depreciating, and arguably way more irresponsible in the views of some people. But, I couldn't care less because I think they are worth it.

#9187 9 months ago
Quoted from TUFLYF:

Has anyone received a topper from cointaker yet?

Ordered mine on 3/24, but no updates on when it will ship yet. Haven't received any emails since the original order confirmation.

#9203 9 months ago
Quoted from GorillaBiscuits:

Toppers are SUCH a waste of money but F me this thing is SWEET!
[quoted image]

I'm jealous as I wait for both the topper and UV kit from cointaker, with no date in sight!

#9204 9 months ago

Quick questions about some of the settings:

What do the following settings do?

Trough Eject Power - is this when the ball is automatically shot out of the trough for you, like when in multiball or after locking a ball with TK lock?

Ball Launch Power - launch from where?

Slingshot Power - what is this? I see a picture in the manual but it's hard to tell what it's from edit: nevermind i found this one

#9210 9 months ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Anytime a ball is served into the shooter lane. The power for that. I have this at the lowest setting.

The shooter lane. The auto launch power. I have this turned down too so it serves the left orbit guide.

The power that the slingshots kick. The things right above the flippers. I turned this down to 13 from 16. Helps reduce some of those slingshot drains.

This makes me want to know what your settings are, in general. “How to make your machine sing like Chuck’s”

Thanks for the info!

#9215 9 months ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Anytime a ball is served into the shooter lane. The power for that. I have this at the lowest setting.

The shooter lane. The auto launch power. I have this turned down too so it serves the left orbit guide.

The power that the slingshots kick. The things right above the flippers. I turned this down to 13 from 16. Helps reduce some of those slingshot drains.

which setting controls how much power is used to eject the ball from the left eject?

#9218 9 months ago
Quoted from C0untDeM0net:

I think the shooter lane protection is worthwhile. I have it on my munsters and the shooter lane has no wear at all. My st though I do not and I have some clear damage after.over 3k games and I put mylar down. Will be ordering a set for my other games. Def turn the trough power all the way down as well.

I turned the trough eject power all the way down and the ball doesn’t even make it out of the trough. Had to turn it back up some.

1 week later
#9314 9 months ago
Quoted from beelzeboob:

Nope. I ordered with Trent and he hasn't gotten his yet. LSOG has some kind of shyster deal with Stern.

Still waiting on the uv kit from January. So frustrating!

#9315 9 months ago
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

there is a lot of vibration by all the coils on the back, I am sure that will not help, not to mention the inertia generated by the diverter, it just happens to be in the same direction the whole assemble adjusts.

One thing I noticed is that mine is less reliable, but not until after at least 20 minutes of play. As I get better and play longer, I think the flipper fade is starting to be a factor. I ordered Pinmonk's new fan kit, and I'm waiting to get that (chomping at the bit).

Another thing I noticed that I think might mean it's adjusted pretty well, is that several times, when the machine is cold, I'll get the ball on the wall when there is NO lock light, which is odd because I assume the diverter is not triggered. It usually ejects the ball off the wall after a second or two, when that happens. Hopefully that is a sign that when the fans are installed it should be very reliable.

#9337 9 months ago
Quoted from TUFLYF:

Nope. I hate when they list items as “in stock.” I waited 2 months for TBL side blades that were “in stock” in their website.

Still waiting on the topper and UV light kit, both from cointaker. Sounds to me like they were promised a specific amount from Stern so they sold the ones they had allocations for. However, the timing is a wildcard it seems. Been over 3 months since I ordered the UV kit. At the end of the day, as long as I get them, I'm okay with it because I know they can't control the timing from Stern. Really sucks having to wait this long, though.

#9339 9 months ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Stats from Pinbrew. 408 plays! Thursday was dead so this was really over two days.
Also the coil stop unscrewed a few turns on the TK lock and caused to TK lock to fall out of harmony. All good now![quoted image]

Hey Chuck, what do you mean by "coil stop"? is what you had to tighten shown in this picture?

6f8b75b1e8b14426f42955e80823200dc01912b7 (resized).jpg
#9344 9 months ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

This. You want that adjusted so the diverter arm is not touching the ramp when at rest. Like just a hair off the ramp. When you have it adjusted where you want it, make sure the nut on the other side is nice and tight so it doesn’t work itself loose after lots of plays like mine did.
[quoted image]

Got it, thanks!

#9386 9 months ago
Quoted from coasterguy:

My stranger things arcade arrived today. It’s awesome!!!!
Shout out to quality arcades for the fast build and ship. Its exactly what I wanted. Looks rad across from STH pin.
[quoted image][quoted image]
[quoted image]

Congrats - looks great!

#9393 9 months ago
Quoted from trimoto:

looking foreword to installing UV glow rings at the same time my UV kit . Has anyone gotten there UV kits from coin taker ? I was told mid march

still waiting on mine ordered in mid January. they have been very nice over the phone, but each time I checked they haven't gotten any useful timing information back from Stern. I haven't called in a while but emailed a few weeks ago and still no word on the UV or the topper.

#9396 9 months ago

My flipper fans arrive Monday. Looking forward to seeing how they affect the game play!

#9500 9 months ago

Just saw the premium

Quoted from BallyKISS1978:

Hopefully by Christmas at this point. This sucks.

no love here either, still waiting. I just hope they honor orders that were placed on time and don't bail on us.

#9501 9 months ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

I took some laminated paper cards I made in the past, wrapped it in some electrical tape and wedged it under elevens head at the left corner between the ramp and the backboard. Others have put shims on the other end too to push out the ramp from the back wall from underneath the magnet.

Yes. Try Pablo. The odds of him responding to you are better than others at stern. Haha. Have your serial number and address handy.
[email protected]

Mine seemed to work best under the magnet. If I recall correctly, under Eleven's face had little impact but I'm sure they all vary. That being said, lately mine seems to be less reliable, so I might experiment with putting a shim in both places. I think before when I was testing, further to the right past the magnet actually caused the ball to fly past the magnet, but I'll revisit again. My fans arrive today so I'll check those screws for tightness and add another shim while I'm in there.

#9551 9 months ago
Quoted from palacekeeper:

Mine seemed to work best under the magnet. If I recall correctly, under Eleven's face had little impact but I'm sure they all vary. That being said, lately mine seems to be less reliable, so I might experiment with putting a shim in both places. I think before when I was testing, further to the right past the magnet actually caused the ball to fly past the magnet, but I'll revisit again. My fans arrive today so I'll check those screws for tightness and add another shim while I'm in there.

Just thought I'd report back for those still working on the TK lock. I added another shim (washers wrapped in black tape) behind the ramp in the left corner under Eleven's head, and wow, that really refined it. In my case, I had a shim under the magnet behind the ramp which made the TK lock work really well, but adding the second shim under Eleven's head really tweaked it even more. It works so well now that many times it goes on the wall even when the lock light is not on, and then it gets ejected off the wall since it's not "eligible" for the ball lock. But, it's an indication that the machine is dialed in very well. This weekend I'll install Pinmonk's fans. Great instructions and packaging by the way - kudos to vireland!

#9555 9 months ago
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

it sounds like you do not need the fans...

Probably, but I have noticed fade in the past and I think it will be more consistent if I keep things cool and then adjust the strength. I was getting good locks even after 2 hours tonight with an occasional miss, but those were debatably not good enough shots. Regardless it’s harder to tweak when the flippers fade so I think it will be better off.

I’ll send some pics of where I have the shims tomorrow. Time got away from me this evening!

#9559 9 months ago
Quoted from beelzeboob:

Just got mine today.

Where did you order from?

#9565 9 months ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

Picture of both shims would be awesome.

Here are the locations where I put the shims (a little hard to see because the shims are black, but I put an arrow where they are). I just took a few metal washers and taped them together with black tape. I added more washers until I got the thickness that seemed right - takes a little experimenting. Keep a magnetic flashlight or magnet handy in case you drop it. The bottom line is that with a shim in both locations, the whole back side of the ramp is pushed out from the back wall. Really made a big difference. I also have the new ramp cover, though, and that was the single biggest thing that got the TK lock dialed in. Before that ramp cover, I would get it close but then it would gradually get worse - some of which was probably from flipper fade. So between the cover, shims, and fans - for mine at least - I'm hoping to "lock in" the "dial in".

left side (resized).jpgright side (resized).jpg
#9624 9 months ago

I was told by Stern that the incline should be at 6.5. I have the bubble in the middle but how can I tell if I’m exactly at 6.5?

#9628 9 months ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

A digital inclinometer. Or use the PinGuy iPhone app.


#9629 9 months ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

A digital inclinometer. Or use the PinGuy iPhone app.

Btw, do I set the glass or playfield to 6.5 in the app?

#9631 9 months ago

Excellent, thanks as always, Chuck!

#9636 9 months ago
Quoted from C0untDeM0net:

Without a level just center the bubble between the lines. It's supposed to be close to 6.5 at the center bubble. On mine I found it to be more like 6.2-6.3. It's meant as a quick measurement tool for ops to do the initial setup. It's more important for it to be level left to right than perfectly 6.5

I ended up using the pinguy app. Had to calibrate it but it seemed to work well.

Also installed pinmonk’s fans today. Normally when the machine is cold, shots up the left ramp go so fast it feels like the ball might fly off the ramp (without lock light on). And then after a half hour or so there is a noticeable slow down.

Not with the fans so far, though. Played for 45 minutes today and the ball was whipping up that left ramp as if I had just turned the machine on cold. Seems like the fans are really working well so far!

#9639 9 months ago
Quoted from hollywood:

Are the fans quiet? Just curious as to how loud they are.

if the room is totally quiet you can hear them a little bit but they are not loud like the factory fans in the machine. For the most part, you need to put your ear close to the machine to hear them.

#9647 9 months ago
Quoted from PoMC:

Very soon. Any feedback is welcome with regard to the attract mode videos.

I love the cleland mod but to be honest I prefer the factory sounds for when you lose the ball too quick, such as “let’s try that again”. Is there a way to keep all the cleland mods except for that one thing? Not a dealbreaker and the clelands mod is awesome but just askin’

#9702 8 months ago
Quoted from C0untDeM0net:

Sure, you can download pinball browser and take the two versions, compare them, and put the originals back where you want them. It's not that hard to use pinball browser but it will take some time.

Thanks for the tip. I think I have it ready to go. Imported "ball saved" and "let's try that again" back into the cleland rom and reconverted back to .gz. Was a bit of a pain to find the right sounds because there were no bookmarks for the sounds on either the factory or cleland roms - at least none that I could find, but patience and perseverance paid off . I need to order a new SD card to test it so I'll give it a shot this coming weekend. Don't want to mess with either of the current cards for factory and cleland because both work perfectly at the moment.

#9703 8 months ago

C0untDeM0net - Thanks again for the tip. I decided to go ahead and try it this morning. All went well. Have the cleland running with the exception of the ball save audios, which are set to the factory originals. Pretty cool to be able to further tweak things!

#9718 8 months ago

one thing's for sure, Chuck's is DIALED IN!

#9847 8 months ago
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

I don't think I know half of these songs or maybe I do but do not know them by name... anyway, this looks interesting to me and would love to see some footage of what it looks like during gameplay.... If you can that would be awesome.

Man that makes me feel old! I know every song in that list!

1 week later
#10179 8 months ago
Quoted from coasterguy:

My topper finally arrived!!!!!!

from where did you order?? still waiting on mine from cointaker, and the UV kit as well

#10231 8 months ago
Quoted from trimoto:

Same here ..Last time i spoke to cointaker they said it was going to be mid march . guess i should have ask of what year

Same here. I sent an email last week and they said the topper is currently expected for June. They also said they suspect the UV kits might go in June also, but they weren't sure. Not sure what year