Quoted from KJS:

I made up this custom 2d translite , two layers and the title and mindflayer glow...looks fantastic.
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Quoted from KJS:

I made up this custom 2d translite , two layers and the title and mindflayer glow...looks fantastic.
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Quoted from PinMonk:

You can't just copy the zip file you download. You have to take the files OUT of the archive you downloaded and then put THOSE in the root of the USB.

Quoted from blizz81:

^^^ There was one posted on FB today in Midwest Pinball and Arcade Collectors in IL for $7k plus $70 shipping that I'm sure is totally legit

Quoted from Dan1733:

Just for fun, I said I would drive down immediately to pick it up and bring cash. Just needed an address
He said, "no, you need to prove your a serious buyer"
Good times on FB.

Quoted from cfh:

i upgraded my pro to a premium. very similar situation you are in. i used darkstar material but i did buy the white kit from pinlife. they will eventually have a darkstar kit, but the price will be probably near $100 (opposed to $10 for white.) i suggest getting the white pinlife kit, as it gives you the sizes to cut the (expensive) darkstar material. you can buy the darkstar samples and cut them yourself, that's what i did. you don't need more than 3 sample sheets. don't put the material on the sides of the ramps for example. just the horizontal ramp surfaces. and of course the main projector area, drop targets, standup targets behind the drops, and the thin 4 standup targets. I also dimmed the LED lights on the arrows in front of the projection area to help with the projector lighting. used paper over the LED to turn them down in power. also did the 3d print of the ramp sign on the left ramp. that's a nice feature (i hear pinlife is making their own version of that sign.)
you will need other things too. if you're using a premium UV kit the stainless steel on the ball return is too short. i extended mine with the TIG welder. otherwise the ball can get stuck. unlikely, but it can happen.
Also you will have to cut your stainless steel ball return metal. the projector mounting bracket goes over the top of that metal. so you need to cut about 1/4" off the top of that return metal in an approximate 3" slice. the projector bracket hangs over the top of the ball return metal. and the pro does not have that cut out. i guess you could order that metal, but i used a cut off saw and made the cut to my original metal (and at the same time TIG welded that 1" extension so the ball does not get stuck.)
i used the stock stern projector power supply board. you can buy the cabling from that to the projector from Amazon (see links below.) but you will have to make the 70v harness that goes from the square playfield connector to the power supply (about 6 foot of two 18 gauge wires gray and black and two .093 molex round pins.) also you need to get 5v so that's another harness you will have to make (about 3 foot of two 22 gauge wires and a .156 molex housing/pins.) do you need the stern projector power supply? well if you want a stock looking setup, yes. but does it have to be that way? probably not. you could use another power supply (like the one that comes with the Apeman m4s), it connects to 120v and outputs 5v through a usb port. not the stock setup, and you have to turn that power off and on and the game power. to me it was better to just use the power supply that stern adapted to the game. cost was about $80 for that board, and had to make the board's metal mounting bracket (easy, just a single right angle bend and some holes.)
for the projector i like the stock s6000, but it's expensive. you can use an Apeman M4s projector (not the M4, but the M4s.) It's larger than the stock s6000.... so you will have to make new mounting brackets. and i'm not sure it will fit under the apron. i'm still working on that... but the stock stern projector mounting bracket will not work at all with the m4s. so you'll have to get creative and do some metal work. it's not that hard. i made a mounting bracket for the s6000, because i didn't think i could get the stern projector bracket (it's 4 pieces, and still haven't been able to get 2 of the pieces.) but at one point pinlife had the big bracket and one of the smaller brackets.
Also the M4s has to be modified to work in the stranger things game. the battery must be disconnected (easy). and the power switch permanently pressed (using a tooth pick and some super glue.) i still haven't mounted it (nor made the custom bracket), so i don't know how the projection angles will line up yet. or how it will fit under the apron.
Here's some cables you will need for the s6000 and stern projector power supply (if you are using the m4s the cabling is a bit different since one projector has a micro hdmi port, and the other has a full size hdmi port). I ended up buying both types of hdmi port cabling so i could experiment, as the cables are cheap. But what is listed below should be all you need for the s6000. If you're using the m4s the right angle hdmi cable will probably need to be different:
amazon.com link » (right angle hdmi cable, plugs into extension cable)
amazon.com link » (extension hdmi m/f cable from backbox cpu to playfield)
amazon.com link » (right angle power cable from ps board to projector)
bottom line... it's a lot of work! but getting/buying a premium stranger things is a lot of work (and money) too! and of course this all assumes you can get your stock CPU board to output HDMI video... you got lucky with the .85 software that was never upgraded. there's other ways to skin that cat, but none of them are easy or cheap.