I gotta say.... this game is awesome.

if you add the UV Kit, Cleland sound package, and the Medisynl mods to a Premium/LE I am not sure if any game can beat it. The only real negative is the cabinet and backglass art.

A few things about it... in case someone is looking to buy one.

* I suspect they applied too much clear around the left saucer. It definitely has a tendency to chip. We are all anxiously awaiting Cliffy to come out with a protector.

* The Medisynl Mods are out-of-this-world good.

* The projector and UV kit both add a lot to the game. I have all of the materials to upgrade the screens, but it is a pretty involved project. I suck at putting down mylar, so the last thing I want is to have bubbles in the screens.

*The TK lock is awesome... but easily the most problematic and finicky mech on any Stern that I have owned. The (distant) second most finicky mech is the Demogorgon shot... after that is probably my EHOH crypt. I am guessing that the time required to dial these two shots in is why Stern dropped making the Premiums so quickly.

* It's the only game I play with the lights off in the room. The game's lighting is as much a part of the game as the shots/mechs.

***update*** I became slightly less lazy and looked in the Cleland Stranger Things topic... and the answer is... he is working on it for the current code.

I am going to ask it....

can you run the Cleland code and the updated Stern code so that you can be Insider Connected? Right now, I am choosing the Cleland code, but i'd like both.

So this is pretty common… the process is to light sand 1000, 2000, then 3000 grit) add clear (2 or 3 coats) … let it sit 1 week… resend (same as before) then polish….. apply Mylar (use a template of the saucer to cut the correct circle into the Mylar)

Next… beg cliffy to make a set for the saucer

So this is how i put my mylar around the saucer. As Chuck said, the jinal piece will look a bit like a "J" - below is the procedure I used for making the curve of the "J"

- measure the diameter of the saucer... I think it is 7/8" but double check
- go online and find a template for that diameter circle
- print the template and cut out the circle
- place the template/circle onto the saucer to see where it lines up with the wood on the playfield (The right edge and along the bottom)- mark the points on the circle... this is the area that needs to by mylared
- place the template/circle ontothe mylar with the two marks serving as the edge. Remember you are only concerned with the right edge (about 120 degrees) the rest of them circle/template can, and should have over the edge.(you will cut around them so you can match the diameter of the saucer perfectly).
- use scotch tape and carefully tape the template in place
- cut around the template carefully.
- I only extended the mylar about an inch beyond the saucer mainly because I suck at placing mylar without introducing bubbles. <ake sure to round all of the corners of the mylar, otherwise you will have lift points
- place the mylar as carefully as possible
-done

It seems like a lot of steps, but by far, for me, the trickiest part is putting down the mylar without bubbles. I took me 3 or 4 tries. Keep your circle/template because you can reuse it if needed.

Kinda like a no-brainer - even if your TK lock is working perfectly. I placed an order... and I am a no-brain kinda guy!

I wonder if they will make any Premiums or just Pro's? GG mentions it being a top earner on location... so maybe it is just Pros?

Just go up to post #17307

This is a known problem for, I think every, Stranger Things Premium and LE. The good news is that post #17307 is selling a kit to help you fix it... for cheap. Doing it yourself (without the kit) is a un-fun job that can take hours.

I bet we have a winner! They may launch it to coincide with the ending of the show. Maybe throw a $20K price on it and give it some exclusive code.

Probably my all-time favorite mod.

Super common… but very disappointing

How I fixed mine…

1 Sand down the area with 2000 and 3000 grit try to get rid of the bubble/chips if you can. Be very careful not to sand the actual art

2 use automotive clear coat and do your best to level it out

3 resand with 2000 then 3000 sand paper the using buffing compound for shine

4 may have to repeat 3 and 4 a couple of times

5 cut out a “j-shaped” piece of Mylar to protect around the saucer

Btw… for everyone who *doesn’t* have chips around the saucer…. I’d put down a j-shaped piece of Mylar asap

We are all waiting for a cliffy

oh wow... I was hoping the mylar was a permanent fix.

Crap… my eye is so trained to the saucer I missed that.

You’re the man! Way to help out a fellow pinsider!