(Topic ID: 258046)

Stranger Things Club. Join our Party!

By chuckwurt

4 years ago


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Topic poll

“Which game are you getting?”

  • Pro 215 votes
    37%
  • Premium 235 votes
    40%
  • LE 133 votes
    23%

(583 votes)

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Topic index (key posts)

41 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #235 ALERT: Be sure to check PRO Ball Lock Post, it can come loose. Posted by chuckwurt (4 years ago)

Post #712 TECH: PLAYFIELD. Replacement rubber info Posted by fooflighter (4 years ago)

Post #1272 TECH: TOYS. Demogorgon adjustment to make less shot rejects Posted by rs812 (4 years ago)

Post #1273 TECH: PLAYFIELD. Projector focus adjustment instructions Posted by rs812 (4 years ago)

Post #1717 TECH: PLAYFIELD. TK lock and deflector adjustment instructions Posted by chuckwurt (4 years ago)

Post #3533 TECH: BOOTING. Fix for Spike machines that frequently have problems booting Posted by C0untDeM0net (3 years ago)

Post #5955 MOD: Stranger Things action button surround and shooter plate Posted by pinballslave (3 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#1438 4 years ago
Quoted from HarrieD:

The transparant drop targets mod is fairly moderate to install. Remove the drop target bank as a whole and replace the drop targets.

I tried one of those from mezel, think it lasted a few hundred plays before it snapped. It was neat looking while it lasted.

1 week later
#1878 4 years ago
Quoted from pickleric:

This is how TILT pinball bar adjusted the ramp on the pro to make the demo easier to hit.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-stranger-things/page/68#post-5385952

Got really lucky with this one. I can make the demo shot almost every time unless my shot is just waaaay off, I have it at 6.9ish.
Adjusted the projector stuff a bit and bent the rails to feed the flippers a little better, but other then that. This was probably the easiest NIB stern (as far as tweaks) I've ever dealt with.

I'm being pre-emptive this time and sticking fender washers under the posts that hold the ramps. Hopefully it holds up better then the last plastic ramp game I bought.

1 week later
#2173 4 years ago
Quoted from tinyrodent:

So my buddy got one of the first Pro models in Canada and it had some of the common problems. Stern sent a couple of replacement parts, I thought I would share photos. First of all the replacement ramp post is definitely an improved design, using a roll pin instead of dimples like the original. I don't have a photo of the original, it will remain installed until it comes apart again. I had to hammer it back together once but it's been ok since.
[quoted image]
They also sent new gates for the exit under the left of the demogorgon, but as near as I can tell, they are identical. I chose to simply remove the gate and we played for a couple of hours without issues. The original gate fell off one side after only a few plays, however we didn't realize what was going on, it's hard to see under there. A ball would frequently get stuck and really make the game not fun.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
This game has another problem which I haven't seen mentioned, but maybe I missed it. The right orbit shot doesn't register reliably when the shot is made. In switch test mode, it works perfect. But during play it seems that some of the time, the ball can roll past the switch on the left side and not press it down. I'm not sure what to do about this. Maybe stick something on the left lane guide to make the passage just a bit narrower?
[quoted image]
And finally the outlane posts. They came installed in the wide open setting, and we would like to move them to the middle. I had no trouble getting the nut off the bottom of a post. But the post did not want to budge out of the playfield. I was afraid to hammer on it. Is there a trick to remove the posts?

I had the same thing happen with that ball gate. Trying to figure out how to put the damn thing back on.

#2217 4 years ago
Quoted from C0untDeM0net:

It's easier to get to if you take the plastic off that is right above it. I think it's 3 screws. Should look like this when on correctly.[quoted image]

Appreciated, got it back on. Just bent the wireform out a little bit more to keep it from flying off again.
Assuming the reason for it is so fast balls don't bang back and trigger the opto under the demo.

#2218 4 years ago
Quoted from Zenomorp:

Got our Premium set up and on the floor at The Arcade in Wichita. So far, I think it's badass.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I like your setup. I've been thinking about doing something like that for a while only thing that makes me hesitant is these machines are slid around all the time. Rubber feet help, but they still find a way to slide a few inches either way.

2 weeks later
#2580 4 years ago
Quoted from MANTO1975:

If you want a certain new release game you have no choice but to pay the price for it. yes it does suck but that's life.

I always get confused when people say this.
a stranger things premium is $12,250 on the amd website, assuming that's Australian dollars right?
that would be 7571.72 U.S.
our price is 7599 (street price is obviously lower), is there some other tax that gets added on?

if it's not Australian dollars then yeah.... that would suck balls.

1 week later
#2711 4 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Video detailing some adjustments you can make to help you peeps dial in your games.

I had no idea the ball was supposed to loop around from the scoop, it just smashes some random drop target on my game.
My lock played great during set up, but it's had close to a thousand plays since I last checked it. It's impossible to make from a trap now.
Guess I'll check it out this week sometime.
Thanks for the video.

2 months later
#4188 3 years ago

I looked through the thread and didn't see any permanent fixes for the TK diverter. Was thinking since there is no secondary winding on the coil, in theory could you slightly lower the resistance by taking off maybe 100 turns? I have no idea what the circuit is rated for and wouldn't want to mess it up, but it seems like there has to be something else that can be done.

1 week later
#4308 3 years ago
Quoted from twenty84:

I think the main issue is that the TK lock is just a poorly designed mech. Both of us have spent a lot of hours getting our games set up and gone down some dead end roads that initially felt like they might be helping. I initially liked the fan idea and it may have merit, just can't convince myself that the temperature of the flipper coil is really the issue here. If it is an issue it is larger than just this game, and we owe it ourselves to know just how much difference it makes.

Temp is really the only thing that makes sense (as far as flipper performance), when you get the shot set up properly. You could always hook up a clamp meter (then push max read button) on the primary winding. Test on a fresh game and then test after 2-3 hours of play. Or maybe check it with a gauss meter to see if that value has dropped overtime.

Obviously there are other problems with the mech, but as you know you can mitigate those with adjustments.

Fans might drop the temp 5-10 degrees? Think I might go the LOTR coil route though, or just keep it disabled for now.

#4350 3 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Fans drop the temp up to 57 degrees. .

Wow, that's a substantial drop.

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