love the remix, but i have a feeling the quotes will get old game after game after game. Excited to see what all you come up with though.

I was board so i started playing around in pinball browser with the .64 code that dropped. I was excited to see that they have the lines from the scenes in there using the actors, so we should see that in future updates. My favorite so far is script 0x415 which is the purring noise dustin makes when showing off his new teeth in season two.

From what i could tell they have approximately 15-20 liners from each character, except nancy, steve, and johnathon, they each have 5-10, they do have drunk nancy saying bullshit a bunch which made me laugh too. They have humor elements in there for sure, if executed correctly this could turn out great.

There actually a TON of guardians in there, not sure if they are place holders or what, i found guardians animations/clips, music, and sound. I also found a ton of guitar sounds, perhaps from aerosmith? Not sure if they just keep a compilation of all sounds from previous games of what.

I will also say after watching a bunch of the custom animations from stranger things in pinball browser that this is easily sterns best house made animations to date.

Hopper also has about 200 recorded callouts from what i found (give or take 20ish that could be stuck in random places i didnt listen to everything), with most of the callouts having about 3-5 emotion variations.

It doesnt really work like that. Things in the code aren't labeled "end of game song" they are labeled script #'s so the code is looking for script 0x415 for example. So until Cleland gets his game and can match up the music he hears in the game to the script #'s in the code, we wont know whats all possible.

.75 code just dropped

https://f002.backblazeb2.com/file/gamecode/stranger_things-0_75_0.spk.zip

Readme is as follows

PRO V0.75.0 - December 30, 2019
=====================

- Changing revision number to sync with LE/PRE rev level.
- Added new Demogorgon Kill SFX to Bust Out.
- Added new Demogorgon Kill SFX to Trap'Em, Trap'Em Super Jackpot.
- Added new Demogorgon Kill SFX to What's That.
- Added new Demogorgon Kill SFX to Run Will, Run Will Super Jackpot.
- Added new Demogorgon Kill SFX to Can't Stop This, Can't Stop This Super Jackpot.
- Added Send it Back Intro SFX.
- Added Light the Fire Intro SFX.
- Added new Send it Back Intro display effect.
- Added new Light the Fire Intro display effect.
- Added new Final Showdown Intro display effect.
- Added Bullies award speech.
- Changed the volume of the Bullies award SFX.
- Changed/Raised the speech volume for all speech .wav files.
- Added speech for finishing Morse Code.
- Added Progress meter to Quarter Hunt.

Devo’s whip it needs to happen for the quarter run mode

I've been checking this thread more then the other cause i cant stand the non since by the same 5 pinside members all the time, its exhausting wading through that bull to try and find actual conversation about the machine. I don't have a game on order, just watching from afar because i love the theme and want to see how it develops.

From my understanding the projector is in the apron of the game, so yes you will get the ball interfering with it as it gets close to the targets and as it goes up ramps.

Any idea What sub are they using in the LE’s?

It’s extremely common to stack modes/multiballs in pinball. This make strategy very important.

Take Star Wars for example, you can stack two modes at a time and also start a multi all with both modes running. Makes for some great high paced action plus makes it so everyone has a different attack strategy to the game.

Idk your pinball history but remember you saying this is your first new in box, just keep playing and you will start to get develop your own strategy for the game. I haven’t got to play this game yet but am really looking forward to it.

What’s the timeline on your le speaker kit with 5 1/2” brackets?

Everyone here gets it. You are not impressed, this however is the owners thread, the shit talking thread is the other one. Take this crap over there.

Ah last I read you had canceled your order. I’m just burnt on people shit talking everything about everything. I feel like people shit talk more then actually playing anymore.

Man rockytop that looks rough. It must of took some force for that to happen, if i recall those housings for the plunger are cast metal and not plastic? I have a few spares here if you want me to send one out to you although im sure stern is already sending one.

its for people who stream, direct capture will let them show the lcd panel without a camera on it.

wern't you selling your game? have a change of heart?

So my question is, now that everyone is freaking out about the uv system up charge, would the reaction be bigger or smaller if stern left the uv system in the game and raised the street price by $300 for this title?

well thats what im asking. everybody always seems to poop themselves when stern does a price increase roll out, so if they just raised the overall price of the game from day 1 but it had the uv system and it was listed as a feature on the matrix would we be seeing as big of a reaction as doing it this way and giving people the option if they want to buy it, but not raising the street price the $300.

That wasn’t a price increase for this game, it was a price increase as of 2020. If you ordered the game before 2020 you didn’t pay the $100 increase, or at least that’s how my distro explained it to me.

That’s weird.... perhaps some distros rolled it out early?

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anyone mind sharing the price the paid for a premium? pm is fine im just curious.

Looks like cointaker already has a kit for $99 for uv lights

https://www.facebook.com/1424059967908255/posts/2468384333475808/

Side rails are out? Can’t find them.

Oh okay cool just saw them on their website, I hadnt seen them before. I’m don’t plan on getting them, I have the uv kit on order from stern and am patiently waiting for my premium to show up.

I have a feeling all your getting in the mail tomorrow is the shirt you ordered lol.

I’m planning on putting on glow in the dark titans to see how they react with the uv lighting

Cointaker is just lights, stern is lights, plastics and apron

This i can not say, i haven't seen how the cointaker set hooks up, weather its plugging into the node board or just clipping onto an existing light. All i know is they said it would cost $99, for me the extra $180 for a new apron (that have lights built into the apron also) and new UV reactive plastics are will worth the difference. Honestly Stern said this has been in the works since day one so their kit is going to work best with the game, im not trying to throw shade at the modders but i dont think they can make a product that is going to work as well as one that has been in development side by side with the machine. I get the anger from people about how it should have been in the game (or a free addon for LE buyers) and agree with them, but in my opinion if you are going to buy a kit, either get the stern kit or get no kit.

I talked to a distro yesterday and he said they are on the line right now and he was expecting to get some this week if not early next week.

Just received confirmation from my distro that my premium is shipping monday the 24th, which im happy about but now have to move my launch party out a week.

NOOOOOOOO, I had so much hope after your screenshot! Man that is a super bummer.

Awesome! Where are you located?

Has anyone heard if the stern art blades have uv features to them?

Crossing my fingers they get another update out fixing the resets before our launch party in two weeks.

I take a 1/4 wrench and put over the hex at the base (top side of playfield) and unthread it out. After a few spins it usually pops right out

May I ask how much of the black diamond it took to do the areas you did, and how much it cost you. Only thing I can think to do is go to the supposed local shop that is listed on their website and ask for some samples of it and then cut it.

dri do you know if the sample you received was the black diamond xl, 1.4 or .8

Thanks! im going to try and get a sample of this and the slate .8 and see if either make a diff as far as viewing angle.

I think right now everyone should hold tight and wait a little bit on this until dri and myself can prove its going to hold up over time. My premium is shipping this week, and hopefully i can get these samples on my game before it heads out to location. Id say let me beta test this on location, make sure its going to hold up and then ill let everyone know. No point in everyone doing this only to find out its not going to last over time.

Guys there is no secret voodoo. This stuff isn't for sale online in little bits, and its so expensive (the way the sell it in giant sheets for wall projectors) there is no way someone is going to beable to sell this as a mod and make it profitable (and i have no interest in selling any mods anyway i already work a day job and am an operator on the side). All you can do is reach out to the audio/video places around you and see if they are a dealer and have any samples they can share with you. This is what i did, and I'm sure this is what dri did. We aren't trying to withhold information, our information isn't going to be helpful to anyone who isn't in our immediate area. Local places aren't going to ship samples across the US. I started poking around online and did find out other companies make something similar, but i didn't go to far down that rabbit hole due to luckily having a local place that sold the black diamond stuff.

Like i said before I'm not personally going to say everyone should track this stuff down until i try it and see what its like/how it holds up, if you guys want to tear apart your machines and go for it then thats cool, but it may end up being a huge miss and waste of time (talking long term). If my samples do end up coming through like I'm hoping I will pick which one of the two materials i ask for samples of that I like better and im more then happy to send the one i don't use onto someone else.

Honestly if someone can figure out how to make that happen then more power to them. I don’t have the time or the energy haha.

RIP your inbox haha. Very cool, I figured someone on here was an AVS guy and would come through. Stuff looks great.

I’m curious to see what it looks like next to the black diamond. Dri says the black diamond can’t be used on anything except the main projector area so I wonder if using black diamond on the projector and this stuff on everything else could be the winning ticket.

I think the dark vinyl that corvair61 is selling well solve those issues.

Doing a bit of research/reading around the AVS forum came across this which talks about a lot of different screen. Granted we are probably WAYYYYYY over thinking this due to the cheap projector tossed in these machines. The projectors they guys are using to test these screens cost more then LE versions of stranger things haha.

DaLite HD Pro (0.9, 1.1, 1.3, 1.1 contrast): Low ALR materials with exceptional surface smoothness, and wide open viewing cones. The 1.1 and 1.3 look particularly nice at night. But only a bit better than a reference white surface (or paper) with combating ambient light. Really beautiful material though with a solid black backing. I'd go with this if I had a darker room.
DaLite Parallax 0.8: Interesting performer, but too dark, and not as much ALR performance as others, with my side-illuminating windows situation. Vertical viewing cone not as bad as expected (about like Slates, better than Black Diamond), but still would require me to mount the projector lower than I'm willing to.
Draper XH900X, MSX1000: good viewing cone, pretty good ALR performance, but both very grainy materials. And notably dark compared to SI's offerings.
SI Slate 0.9, 1.2: Amazing performers on axis, especially 1.2: bright, incredible contrast, smooth surface. Nothing even close. If you could just have this performance over the full viewing area... But the narrow viewing cone, especially horizontally, means at the side of the viewing area they go dark and lose contrast, even from the main viewing position. Add in our wide couch and they're non-starters. Even with lots of ambient light, the HD Pro beats out Slate at the image's edge. At night it's not even close. Definitely also the most prone to hot-spotting, which I define as "ability to discern the position of the projector by moving your head around". To be very fair, I'm really pushing these materials at a low throw ratio of 1.4, below the recommended 1.5. Throw ratio and viewing cone angle are physical inverses. I bet at 1.8 or 2.0 (and with narrow seating), they'd hold up much better at the edge.
SI BD 1.4: Not available in retractable so a no-go for me, but thought I'd mention for completeness. Very close performance wise, but I actually prefer the Slates (at the center of the screen). BD holds up a bit better horizontally, but a bit worse vertically than Slate.

Where are your cameras mounted? Normally I see them attracted to the back box on a mount setup but don’t see that here.

My premium arrived today. Only out of box issue I am having is the left ramp locking balls by its self. I have tracked it down to the left ramp exit opto. Seems the self tapping screws were perhaps over tightened and one of the opto sides is wiggle And registering the shot as hit when it is not.

Also the tk ball lock ramp firing will make the ramp shake enough that the opto fires. Going to put a couple of screws with nylon nuts on the sensor and see if it solves it.

Real quick what did you use to adhere the new black diamond projector material?

Fixed this. After chasing it and tearing half the game apart thinking the opto was misaligned with the holes in the ramp, it turned out it was just a bad opto. Well bad solder job on the opto. Sucked off old solder and reflowed and it’s good to go now.

I rerubbered the whole machine in Titan glow in the dark rubber. I will say this, getting to the three rubbers in the back of the machine in the pop bumper area is a nightmare so bad I hope the ones I put in there never brake. I had to take more of the game apart to get back there and change those.

Thank you for this, excuse my dumb questions but what do you mean white spacers? are you talking about putting the original white material back on after it was removed?

I received two samples of the black diamond, one of the .8 and one of the 1.4. Im sure its just my eyes and everyones taste will be different but the 1.4 is the winner for me. To me it does everything the .8 does, but overall it gives a brighter picture than the .8 does.

Is anyone’s TK ball lock working 100% of the time? I feel like mine works about 1 in 10 it usually gets half way up the metal arm and then comes back down or it falls off the arm and goes to up post. I’ve messed with it every which way I can.

Weird thing is if I roll it up the ramp with my hand it works perfect it’s just from the flipper.

Then what happens? Does it reject or go past the arm to the up post?

I think I might tear apart my flipper and see if the cool stop is jack and robbing power from the flipper.

This is what it feels like for me too. Sometimes the flipper feels stronger to get it up the ramp.

This is extremely well written and I echo everything there. I spent about two hours last night adjusting mine with a buddy shooting it over and over again. We got it dialed and locked about 20 balls straight.

Kept playing and shortly after couldn’t get any to lock, it was like everything got knocked out of adjustment just by playing the game. It’s extremely frustrating l, I might just disable my diverter for the time being and go to virtual locks.

I did. Turned it off over night and came back this morning and tried and reject city. Perhaps a coil upgrade is needed but that seems like brake city for drop targets.

I’m going to get some plastic rod and cut it to the sizes for measuring the tolerances easier. All my measuring tools are metal and as soon as I try and see what distances are the magnet grabs it haha.

Where did you put the lock washers? On the four bolts holding the coil on the back panel?

So fiddling with my lock some more tonight after cutting a piece of aluminum to use as a measuring tool. What interesting is last night when I was having the great success rate with locks , the arm was much closer to the wall than 13/16”. My guess is it was 1/2” away from the way.

With the tip of the arm 13/16” away from the wall, the ball barley makes it up the arm halfway before coming back down.

I’m going to keep fiddling away here and see if I get anywhere.

Following up on this. After adjusting more and more and more, my initial thoughts where correct. At 13/16” spacing for the arm to the wall all balls get rejected. Currently my machine arm is 1/2” from the wall (give or take 1/32”) i was at 100% lock rate with taking trapped up shots and I am at approximately 80-90% success rate with good clean shots up the ramp during normal play from the right flipper. I went ahead and put some tooth lock washers on that @twenty84 suggested. YMMV but something maybe someone else wants to try.

Also my ramp isn’t sticking out from the back wall 1/32” it’s actually in the wall about a 1/32”. The eleven plastic is sticking out a hair past the back wall of my ramp.

Just played about 5 games and am happy with this. Will play again tomorrow to see if it changes.

jack danger has a premium with the kit at his place now and streamed for a couple of hours last night. It’s on his vod on hos twitch channel if you want to see it.

From what I can tell on where’s barb, dead barb is located in one of the shots randomly. Each shot you make you don’t find her adds to the collected total, so the goal is to hit every shot she isn’t at and then hit the one she is at. That will give maximum point cash out. This to me seems backwards. I think it would be worth x number of points and each time you shoot a shot she isn’t in it takes away from that total. So if you get it on the first try then you get the maximum points possible for the mode.

What are your thoughts on it now that you have it and see it in person? Is it game changing for the mode?

Following up on this as splitcms pm’d me this morning and wells discussing this.

Last night I had my lock dialed, or at least I thought I did. Played great last night, came out this morning and played it and couldn’t get a single lock in three games, and I basically sat there and shot nothing but the lock shot the whole time. Came home on my lunch fired off a couple more games, still not a single lock. Came home sprayed a little (and I mean little) lubricant into the opening of the lock arm assembly where it slides on the screw (see picture) then worked the mech back and forth about 20 times so it distributed it. I then sprayed a little bit into a paper towel and wiped it on the plunger arm that goes into the coil in the back panel and worked the mech again.

I then played about 10 games. Every lock shot worked perfectly and locked perfectly. Not sure if this is a long term fix yet but I’m going to keep playing and see.

After looking at the part of the mech that slides on the hex head bolt, the mech arm basically rides on a nylon washer. Perhaps it creating a binding issue we can’t see. I’m not sure, I’m just going to enjoy the locks while they work lol.
37781939-D0B4-42EF-84CC-FA205CEAFB20 (resized).jpeg9A58A517-0509-4BDB-A24D-1B7BB9415847 (resized).jpeg

Looks like their is plenty of wire there I see a couple of sections where excess is zip tied up. Think it’s just more how he ran the wire.

For those of you have to change out your ramp I can tell you it isn’t to bad. I’ve pulled mine out twice now (working on projector material swaps) the first time it took me about 30 min but this 2nd time it took me about 10 min. I’ll take some pics as I put it back together so everyone gets an idea what they are up against.

Okay got my machine all back together with lots of pics of how to take the ramp out. I’ll do a full write up later. In the mean time I am loving this black diamond material! Here is a pic of my lighting setup and a pic of the game. My shop lighting is made up of four of these dual led tube’d lights.

Here is a pic of the machine (no glass on) with the shop at full brightness

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DB8B6D7B-A757-4B00-9D0D-A20E3111BB0A (resized).jpeg

You ordered the wrong kit. There is a drop down menu to choose between premium and pro for the uv kit. Contact whoever you bought it through or stern directly and get it exchanged.

Also no I don’t have any art blades in my game perhaps you are seeing weird reflections/lights playing tricks.

Boob’s does have art blades, all LEs come with Le exclusive art blades.

Yeah looks like they sent you the wrong apron. I was said on the live stream and other places online the premium/le kit comes with a metal apron.

Looking at the pics boob posted above of his game with the kit installed, he def has a metal apron on his.

Unfortunately the black diamond material won’t work for the ramps. On my machine I did the main projector screen, the drop targets under it, and the four stand up targets (two at the entrance of each ramp.

Well I thought I had my ball lock dialed, but it’s back to its old ways.

Okay here is my write up on how to take out the main ramp, without driving yourself crazy trying to figure it out like i did lol.

Step 1: Start on the right hand side of projector assembly (this is the only step i forgot to take a picture of), there is a clear plastic with black swirls all over it. Remove the 1/4' hex post that attaches it to the back of the projector side assembly, then remove the tall 1/4' hex post that holds it to the bottom of that same piece. Put plastic piece aside in safe area.

Step 2: Unscrew the 2 5/16" nylon lock nuts that hold the panel to the base, once it is free you it will give you easy access to the two phillips head screws holding the opto in place, remove those also. Your right side projector panel will now be free to remove from the machine.

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Step 3: Move to left projector panel side, remove the 1/4' hex post and single phillips head screw holding the clear plastic with black swirls in place, also remove the small black phillips head screw at the end of the plastic. This plastic will now be free to be removed from the machine.

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Step 4: There is another section of clear plastic with black swirls under the one that was just removed. Take out the phillips head screw and the 5/16" nylon lock nut by the demogorgan and it will come free. Its take a little wiggling it in different positions to get it out but can be done.

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Step 5: Now that the back of the panel is all exposed remove the single led light board attached to the back of the panel and then remove 1/4" hex post and 5/16" nylon lock nut. This will then let you lay the panel flat to access the two phillips head screws to remove the other side of the opto.

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Step 6: Now your ramp is completely exposed. Remove the 3/8" hex nut that is attached to the swing arm of the ramp (will also need a phillips head screwdriver to remove this) Pop the black C clip off the right side of the ramp and wiggle the pivot rod that goes through the ramp out the left side. The pivot rod will only go so far before hitting the side of the left ramp, but its enough for you to then angle the right side of the ramp up and pull it off the rod the rest of the way. It helps if the brass fitting is popped out of the left side of the ramp base, it will give you more of an angel to get the ramp out.

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If anyone has any questions just ask!

Glow in the dark from Titan they are uv reactive

You mean the ramp lock?

I hope so. Mine is working okayish, for my machine I found out if you shot the left orbit and then hit the left ramp after it feeds back to the right flipper it has enough speed to make it up. I do hope the come up with a solid solution though as I would like it more reliable on all shots up.

I’m going art blades for this title and I am a huge mirror blade fan. Curious to see if UV art blades come out.

I have a full sample sheet of the black diamond .8 gain material for anyone that wants it. Just let me know

This has been claimed

Just completed installing DugFreez complete 5.25 set into my premium, they look great and i am super happy with them, just need to mess with the EQ for the new speakers. chuckwurt i have the same speakers the le's have, mind going into your settings and telling me what they are set at? Stern is now putting out a separate premium and le code file and i am wondering if the differences between them are sound settings for the different speakers the game uses.

Old vs new sub

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Old vs new back box speaker

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One of the sets installed
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Finished product
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I would like to see the button used for something ala tbe hadron enforcer or like troll bombs but maybe for demogorgans?

What registers the center shot once the drops are down? I have been finding a lot of non registering when I hit it lately, mainly from my left flipper, demoGorgar will be ready to start I shoot it and nothing then I hit it from the right flipper and it’s good. Is it an opto or switch back there?

This is interesting, if i recall mine is also loose (although i dont think its as loose as yours was) i figured it was meant to be somewhat loose so it didnt bind up while sliding back and forth.

Of is he refering to that big nut? i thought he was talking about the hex bolt with the nut underneath it on the sliding pivot point. Either way i will look at mine again, need to anyway as its acting up, on the plus side my UV kit shows up today!

Hey chuck, how has your ball lock been playing since you did the lube job on it? has it stayed solid?

Well i finally got to my braking point with my ramp lock and disabled it. I am enjoying the game so much better now with out constant left ramp rejects and sdtm shots from rejects.

You streaming right now chuck?

I did a full write up with pictures on how to remove the ramp. The post is a few pages back.

Here is a link directly to the post

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stranger-things-club-join-our-party/page/50#post-5518302

give time, it will get fixed. I think they are more concerned with getting speech in modes that dont have any rather then making sure it matches the movement of the mouths 100% right now.

I have only played a handful of games but am LOVING this update.

However what exactly is the left lane target? I havent quite figured that out yet

Well the good thing is the FULL game is there in the pro, no missing modes or stuff like that. With that said, i could not imagine this game without the projector, however that is just me. Also have to ask if you are someone to likes to take time and tweek machines, the premium takes some tweeking with the TK lock.

I think i hit a bug yesterday where it awarded me two extra balls when really only lit one. Was in the mode save will, started upside down with save will running, extra ball lit (was not previously lit) hit extra ball shot and it did the extra ball animation. Upside down continued to count down however the game would not eject the ball out of the extra ball shot. Upside down ended and then the extra ball animation played again and gave me another extra ball without me shooting a single addition shot. The game then gave me my ball back out of the extra ball shot.

Boob did you go with the .8 or the 1.4 gain material?

When did you take out the ramp to do the black diamond upgrade? Sametime as when you updated code?

I wish they wouldn’t lock you out of mode starts once they start. If you have a mode running they will stack, but if you start then before a mood your screwed.

There is definitely a bug with Save Will, if you get an extra ball before starting save will, when you do start save will it will light and give you another one. Ill have to report this to stern when i have time.

Mine would do this to and the only thing i could come up with was that the ball hit the arm just right and kind of flew up the wall and it grabbed it.

They are out little shop of games has them in stock ready to order.

Which someone did say fits on the pro so you could do the premium kit on the pro and get the upgraded apron

Have you done your whole game in Titans? When I did mine I had to upgrade a few in the back to bigger sizes cause titans can run a little tight/small on some ring sizes.

Can you tell where it’s hitting the cover? Maybe some spacers need to be added between the top of the ramp and the cover so it doesn’t catch the ball as it goes up

I played a bit of the new code last night as i was resetting up some pins for a location opening back up. Man I am really digging this update, things are really starting to sound cohesive with the speech. Also reworked my ball lock some more and got it working pretty great (we have all heard that one before)

I also tossed some purple T-Molding on my machine and am loving it over the black that was on it.

what brand are you using?

From my googling they don't make a projector surface? It just looks like car vinyl?

Here is the only picture i took

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Okay so what’s different with your mech now?