(Topic ID: 258046)

Stranger Things Club. Join our Party!

By chuckwurt

2 years ago


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  • Latest reply 8 hours ago by Xdetroit
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“Which game are you getting?”

  • Pro 169 votes
    40%
  • Premium 135 votes
    32%
  • LE 122 votes
    29%

(426 votes)

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#3601 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Is anyone getting clipping out of mostly the left speaker on 0.90? Some of the callouts when there's an effect playing at the same time (and music) gets very crunchy and I think the speaker's clipping.

been having audio clipping for the last 2 versions. I used the 10 band eq to reduce bass in the backbox speakers and increased it in the cab speaker to compensate. By default it's on the high/low pass filters but I couldn't find settings for those that got rid of the clipping

#3602 2 years ago

Glow titans on this are pretty sweet! It’s cool obviously in the upside down, but just in that short period the UV charges them up so they glow for a while afterwards too.

#3603 2 years ago

Not sure if it’s just me. But I noticed, that if I have spell of Protection lit, and ball save on at the same time, and I drain on the left, it registers as spell of Protection, using it up.

I thought if the ball save was on, you wouldn’t lose the spell save. Noticed this a few times during TK multi ball.

#3604 2 years ago

When do you think we’ll get a video mode?

#3605 2 years ago
Quoted from blowback1976:

Not sure if it’s just me. But I noticed, that if I have spell of Protection lit, and ball save on at the same time, and I drain on the left, it registers as spell of Protection, using it up.
I thought if the ball save was on, you wouldn’t lose the spell save. Noticed this a few times during TK multi ball.

I’ve specifically watched for this and I haven’t noticed. I’ve always gotten ball save first.

#3606 2 years ago
Quoted from Yesh23:

When do you think we’ll get a video mode?

Soon.

#3607 2 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Glow titans on this are pretty sweet! It’s cool obviously in the upside down, but just in that short period the UV charges them up so they glow for a while afterwards too.

I’m adding some. Just don’t I’ll do the ones in the back. Hard to see not worth the effort. Buried under back ramps

#3608 2 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

I’m adding some. Just don’t I’ll do the ones in the back. Hard to see not worth the effort. Buried under back ramps

Yeah. I only did everything at the side demo dog targets and down.

#3609 2 years ago

So... what's the lockdown bar button for?

#3610 2 years ago
Quoted from imagamejunky:

So... what's the lockdown bar button for?

Same as iron maiden. Launching the ball, entering the high score letters, starting the game. I assume the video mode will use it, though.

#3611 2 years ago

I ordered some of those forest sideblades for my premium, going to pick up those glow rubbers too

I was looking into glow in the dark balls but there doesnt seem to be high quality option for that, I see some with low reviews

#3612 2 years ago

n00b here,

Don't own a single pin and considering a STh Premium as our first for the fam. Code aside, all the mech problems kinda scare me (TK ball lock, ramp gap, flipper power, ball post...etc.) especially for someone who has NEVER worked on a pin before. I'm not adverse to being hands on, just wondering if it's worth the trouble/$ for a first time pin owner; especially since I may not even know if there is actually a problem!

Local dealer is selling a premium, with UV kit. I don't know how many plays it has, and don't know if he's tweaked it/tuned it all the way.

Go for it? Get a NIB from a distributor? Or go with a safer option for a first pin?

#3613 2 years ago
Quoted from Gee_Bananas:

n00b here,
Don't own a single pin and considering a STh Premium as our first for the fam. Code aside, all the mech problems kinda scare me (TK ball lock, ramp gap, flipper power, ball post...etc.) especially for someone who has NEVER worked on a pin before. I'm not adverse to being hands on, just wondering if it's worth the trouble/$ for a first time pin owner; especially since I may not even know if there is actually a problem!
Local dealer is selling a premium, with UV kit. I don't know how many plays it has, and don't know if he's tweaked it/tuned it all the way.
Go for it? Get a NIB from a distributor? Or go with a safer option for a first pin?

Get a Deadpool Prem. Circle back to STh once the code is more mature and issues on the Prem/LE are worked out. Deadpool Prem/LE is fantastic. Play it, enjoy it for a year then decide if you still want Stranger Things.

#3614 2 years ago
Quoted from Gee_Bananas:

n00b here,
Don't own a single pin and considering a STh Premium as our first for the fam. Code aside, all the mech problems kinda scare me (TK ball lock, ramp gap, flipper power, ball post...etc.) especially for someone who has NEVER worked on a pin before. I'm not adverse to being hands on, just wondering if it's worth the trouble/$ for a first time pin owner; especially since I may not even know if there is actually a problem!
Local dealer is selling a premium, with UV kit. I don't know how many plays it has, and don't know if he's tweaked it/tuned it all the way.
Go for it? Get a NIB from a distributor? Or go with a safer option for a first pin?

If your family loves the theme and you’re not sure about the lock/projector then pick up a pro and have fun. With the money you save add the UV kit. Pinball machines have moving parts so sooner or later you might need to tweak something.

#3615 2 years ago
Quoted from Yesh23:

When do you think we’ll get a video mode?

I wonder what it’s going to be...bashing Demogorgons/Demodogs with Steve the hair Harrington? Kids on bikes racing away from Vans? Maybe something more retro like AFM?

#3616 2 years ago

Hope that video mode will come soon.
On an another topic, what do you think about a menu for each mission launch?
Per example, on Batman 66, you can choose a specific mission in the menu (a banner with the options on the DMD at startup, and left or right flip navigation). it would be fantastic if the code were improved in this way. I think that the idea of ​​leaving the choice to the player will always give more interactivity and would make it easier to achieve total isolations
Best,

#3617 2 years ago
Quoted from Gee_Bananas:

n00b here,
Don't own a single pin and considering a STh Premium as our first for the fam. Code aside, all the mech problems kinda scare me (TK ball lock, ramp gap, flipper power, ball post...etc.) especially for someone who has NEVER worked on a pin before. I'm not adverse to being hands on, just wondering if it's worth the trouble/$ for a first time pin owner; especially since I may not even know if there is actually a problem!
Local dealer is selling a premium, with UV kit. I don't know how many plays it has, and don't know if he's tweaked it/tuned it all the way.
Go for it? Get a NIB from a distributor? Or go with a safer option for a first pin?

These forums can be helpful, but sometimes a bit intimidating. Not all games have problems etc. I am quite happy with my game.

Those problems are small, any my game doesn’t have them. I would suggest going a playing the game at the local dealer. It’s really fun! Ask them about the reported issues and see for yourself how there game plays. They might even offer local setup and delivery.

As for Price, that’s up to your budget. ST Prem MSRP is $7699. A price near that for used is not a good deal. UV kit is essentially $300 shipped. I think any Premium in the low $7000 range that includes a UV kit is a good price, any game with a $6 as the first digit is a very good price. Use that to compare to your local dealer.

Feel free to give me a pm. I love to chat pinball and would be happy to chat about my game etc.

Chris

#3618 2 years ago
Quoted from Gee_Bananas:

Local dealer is selling a premium, with UV kit. I don't know how many plays it has, and don't know if he's tweaked it/tuned it all the way.

At the prices you posted, run away from that deal. I wouldn’t recommend this game for a first time pin owner.

That said, since it his game is available for play before you buy, you can check on all these issues to see if you will have them or not.

If you do get it, there’s lots of help here to get your game dialed in.

#3619 2 years ago
Quoted from Wildbill327:

I wonder what it’s going to be...bashing Demogorgons/Demodogs with Steve the hair Harrington? Kids on bikes racing away from Vans? Maybe something more retro like AFM?

I’m thinking a homage to AFM, but could be anything really.

#3620 2 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

I’ve specifically watched for this and I haven’t noticed. I’ve always gotten ball save first.

I'll put more time on it this weekend, it was just odd.

#3621 2 years ago
Quoted from blowback1976:

I'll put more time on it this weekend, it was just odd.

This has definitely been an issue in other games so I’m always on the look out when a new game comes out. Haha.

If you took a tilt warning too that could have messed with the order of things.

#3622 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Same as iron maiden. Launching the ball, entering the high score letters, starting the game. I assume the video mode will use it, though.

My pro Iron Maiden does not have that button, do the premium/le's have it?

#3623 2 years ago

Is it just me, or during TK multiball everything seems quiet like the music is low or not present??

Loving my pro UpsideDown edition !

#3624 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Same as iron maiden. Launching the ball, entering the high score letters, starting the game. I assume the video mode will use it, though.

Quoted from finnflash:

My pro Iron Maiden does not have that button, do the premium/le's have it?

Maiden LE doesn't have the button nor do the premiums I've seen. I saw a post of a recent one that had a lock bar button and thought it was some kind of joke at first, but apparently they are including these on new builds.

Quoted from Gee_Bananas:

n00b here,
Don't own a single pin and considering a STh Premium as our first for the fam. Code aside, all the mech problems kinda scare me (TK ball lock, ramp gap, flipper power, ball post...etc.) especially for someone who has NEVER worked on a pin before. I'm not adverse to being hands on, just wondering if it's worth the trouble/$ for a first time pin owner; especially since I may not even know if there is actually a problem!
Local dealer is selling a premium, with UV kit. I don't know how many plays it has, and don't know if he's tweaked it/tuned it all the way.
Go for it? Get a NIB from a distributor? Or go with a safer option for a first pin?

My experience with the LE was that the TK lock was one of the most difficult mechs to get working properly, and I've owned about 25 games, most of them modern if not NIB. Some say they had one that worked well out of the box, but I've also seen multiple Twitch streamers turn the mech off in frustration. I've probably spent a total of 12 hours on mine and know another guy who has spent about the same on his LE, so work can go well beyond what is described in Stern's PDF. That said a lot of the issues have been worked out by others now so it will likely be less trial and error for future owners. I think it is a good game and my family loves it - largely due to the theme and projector.

Other issues are the demogorgon often needs to be adjusted for the shot to be makable, a gate often falls off under the demogorgon, some ball guides need to be adjusted, the Stern lighting kit needs to be installed, the projector can get out of focus, kick out of the ball from dish on the left side often needs adjustment, the stickers on the standup targets fall off frequently, but of these are relatively simple to fix. Pretty much every new or used game has needed some adjustment or minor modification to get it optimized though.

#3625 2 years ago

I'm terribly sorry, but can someone reiterate this potential "ramp gap" problem or at least point me to the post that makes mention of it. My ramps seem fine, but I'm curious about it. I have a December 2019 build, so if it's a problem, I'm sure I have it.

#3626 2 years ago

If your game is playing great, I wouldn’t worry about it. Per stern their were ramps that went out in the first few hundred games with improper assembly that makes it next to impossible to hit the demo mouth.

#3627 2 years ago
Quoted from Gee_Bananas:

n00b here,
Don't own a single pin and considering a STh Premium as our first for the fam. Code aside, all the mech problems kinda scare me (TK ball lock, ramp gap, flipper power, ball post...etc.) especially for someone who has NEVER worked on a pin before. I'm not adverse to being hands on, just wondering if it's worth the trouble/$ for a first time pin owner; especially since I may not even know if there is actually a problem!
Local dealer is selling a premium, with UV kit. I don't know how many plays it has, and don't know if he's tweaked it/tuned it all the way.
Go for it? Get a NIB from a distributor? Or go with a safer option for a first pin?

I went with the pro, I’m usually a premium guy but for this title the pro is great! Less fiddling and more playing!

#3628 2 years ago

My daughter and I played stranger things on stream for a bit last night. We bid it farewell as we traded with a friend. He may put it up on stream soon now!

https://m.twitch.tv/videos/614527552

I can see us having this one in our collection again at some point.

#3629 2 years ago

After WAY too many hours I'm about ready to wave the white flag. This TK lock is possibly the WORST lock mech in ALL of pinball! It works for a game or two and then it won't work for multiple games. It may correctly grab 4 balls in a row and then won't grab the next 20. The guide rod appears to slow or stop the travel of the ball most of the time.
I could really use some help here guys. I apologize because it's been beat to death. I've read multiple posts. I've followed the Stern PDF doc. I've checked the tolerances and rechecked them.

The only tolerance that is off is step 6 in the PDF. I've included a pic.
The doc says that the ramp rear wall should be slightly OUT 1/32 to 1/16" from the magnet cover. Mine is the opposite. My magnet cover is very slightly out from the ramp wall. Even with the magnet cover being OUT from the ramp wall, the distance from the guide rod to the magnet cover is within spec (25/32-13/16").

The instructions say to loosen the snug plate screw (red arrow on my pic) along with 4 screws on hex posts (mine only has 3) and the 2 at the ramp entrance. Then we're supposed to pull the ramp out away from the magnet cover and re-tighten everything. This does not work because as soon as I tighten the snug plate it pulls the ramp wall back. There isn't a way to keep the ramp wall forward AND tighten the snug plate.
Could this be causing all of my headaches with this mech? What have you guys done to be successful with this? Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks
Nick
stern STh doc (resized).png

#3630 2 years ago

Finally managed to find barb in the first shot and like someone else found you see the 40 mil award but nothing gets added to your score. Would have been my GC game had that 40 mill been added lol. I've reported it to Stern as another data point.

#3631 2 years ago
Quoted from C0untDeM0net:

Finally managed to find barb in the first shot and like someone else found you see the 40 mil award but nothing gets added to your score. Would have been my GC game had that 40 mill been added lol. I've reported it to Stern as another data point.

I just had this happen too. Wouldn't have been a GC score with the 40 million, but I blame it for my subsequent draining...

#3632 2 years ago
Quoted from imagamejunky:

After WAY too many hours I'm about ready to wave the white flag. This TK lock is possibly the WORST lock mech in ALL of pinball! It works for a game or two and then it won't work for multiple games. It may correctly grab 4 balls in a row and then won't grab the next 20. The guide rod appears to slow or stop the travel of the ball most of the time.
I could really use some help here guys. I apologize because it's been beat to death. I've read multiple posts. I've followed the Stern PDF doc. I've checked the tolerances and rechecked them.
The only tolerance that is off is step 6 in the PDF. I've included a pic.
The doc says that the ramp rear wall should be slightly OUT 1/32 to 1/16" from the magnet cover. Mine is the opposite. My magnet cover is very slightly out from the ramp wall. Even with the magnet cover being OUT from the ramp wall, the distance from the guide rod to the magnet cover is within spec (25/32-13/16").
The instructions say to loosen the snug plate screw (red arrow on my pic) along with 4 screws on hex posts (mine only has 3) and the 2 at the ramp entrance. Then we're supposed to pull the ramp out away from the magnet cover and re-tighten everything. This does not work because as soon as I tighten the snug plate it pulls the ramp wall back. There isn't a way to keep the ramp wall forward AND tighten the snug plate.
Could this be causing all of my headaches with this mech? What have you guys done to be successful with this? Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
Nick
[quoted image]

I've been where you are in terms of frustration with this mech. I've now gotten mine to work pretty well. There seem to be a lot of opinions on this, but here is what I did:

1. Put lock washers on the back where the solenoid plate is held to the back box. Even if you get it set up like it shows in the PDF it often doesn't stay there long. You need to have the ramp further forward (towards the player) than the magnet cover like the Stern document shows. Your ball is probably loosing some energy hitting the magnet cover. If you are tightening the snug plate screw that is probably the problem. In my opinion this screw isn't needed at all, and making it too tight will cause issues.

2. Make sure the mech moves freely. I've seen some put some tension in the form of a rubber band that pulls the joint at the back of the mech up which seems to help. Some have put WD-40 on here, but I don't think that is needed and will probably just collect dirt over time.

3. The rod needs to be as close to the back of the ramp as possible so the mech so the ball will be more on top of the rod than getting pinched by the rod if that makes sense. They don't provide any appropriate adjustment for this but many of us have put something between the ramp and the backboard (such as a washer covered in electrical tape). Obviously this needs to be done so the rod still moves freely. There is not a lot of play here but a little can go a long way.

4. The ball needs to enter the curve on the lateral part of the ramp to keep it from losing too much energy to the back wall of the ramp. You can lower the outside of the ramp slightly (it requires a different standoff to be used) but this is limited by hitting the mech if you go too low. You can also raise the medial side of the ramp with a washer. You can also loosen the screen on the right side at the bottom of the ramp by the flap. There is not a lot of potential for movement here but a little can go a long way. I've also heard of placing a thin triangular piece of rubber or other material under the reflective decal (it peels right off and is just as easily replaced) so that the wide part is at the top as to push the ball more lateral as it goes up the ramp.

#3633 2 years ago
Quoted from imagamejunky:

After WAY too many hours I'm about ready to wave the white flag. This TK lock is possibly the WORST lock mech in ALL of pinball! It works for a game or two and then it won't work for multiple games. It may correctly grab 4 balls in a row and then won't grab the next 20. The guide rod appears to slow or stop the travel of the ball most of the time.
I could really use some help here guys. I apologize because it's been beat to death. I've read multiple posts. I've followed the Stern PDF doc. I've checked the tolerances and rechecked them.
The only tolerance that is off is step 6 in the PDF. I've included a pic.
The doc says that the ramp rear wall should be slightly OUT 1/32 to 1/16" from the magnet cover. Mine is the opposite. My magnet cover is very slightly out from the ramp wall. Even with the magnet cover being OUT from the ramp wall, the distance from the guide rod to the magnet cover is within spec (25/32-13/16").
The instructions say to loosen the snug plate screw (red arrow on my pic) along with 4 screws on hex posts (mine only has 3) and the 2 at the ramp entrance. Then we're supposed to pull the ramp out away from the magnet cover and re-tighten everything. This does not work because as soon as I tighten the snug plate it pulls the ramp wall back. There isn't a way to keep the ramp wall forward AND tighten the snug plate.
Could this be causing all of my headaches with this mech? What have you guys done to be successful with this? Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
Nick
[quoted image]

Remove the snug plate screw completely.

#3634 2 years ago

Also I’m still convinced at least on my game the power of the flipper reduce with extended play. Nothing else makes sense to me. Every single day my first game or two is 100% locks and 100% demo mouth hits. Then those same shots become less reliable 30 mins later.

It literally can’t be anything else. Haha

#3635 2 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Also I’m still convinced at least on my game the power of the flipper reduce with extended play. Nothing else makes sense to me. Every single day my first game or two is 100% locks and 100% demo mouth hits. Then those same shots become less reliable 30 mins later.
It literally can’t be anything else. Haha

I agree with you, Erik...but I also think there are a few factors in play. Ultimately, I think people are chasing a problem that's not really a design problem (or it is, depending on how you want to look at it). With JPLE, you have to hit a solid shot at the T-Rex to get the ball to stick. Any trajectory that is weak or not precisely on center will cause the ball to reject.

With STh, the flipper issue plays into what I think the real problem is. Where the ball enters the ramp is important (like twenty84 mentioned above). If the ball is hit solidly, and is able to follow the curve of the back of the ramp, it'll retain enough energy to get up the diverter smoothly. If you hit the ramp in the middle or to the right, there will be a bit of an impact on the side of the ramp which not only takes a little energy off the ball, but also knocks the angle of entry onto the diverter out of kilter slightly. I also think the playfield pitch has a lot to do with it, and that's simple physics: The higher the angle, the more energy the ball will need to get up an already-steep diverter mech. If your pitch is too steep (even 7 degrees might be too much for this mech), the ball will run out of steam before it gets to the diverter.

If I'm feeling ambitious this weekend, I'll test my theory and flatten the pitch of the game to see if it helps with the lock. It would be great if it does...but then the rest of the game will play like shit.

#3636 2 years ago
Quoted from beelzeboob:

Any trajectory that is weak or not precisely on center will cause the ball to reject.

Not true on my game. A shot that’s a guarantee no doubter lock on game one, will be 50/50 by game 3-4. Same for the demo mouth. That same spot on the flipper that was 100% mouth before will now be 25-30%.

Somethings up homie.

I’ve had my pitch from 6.0 to 7.5 and doesn’t seem to make a difference on my game. So I put it to 6.5-6.6 range and left it.

#3637 2 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Also I’m still convinced at least on my game the power of the flipper reduce with extended play. Nothing else makes sense to me. Every single day my first game or two is 100% locks and 100% demo mouth hits. Then those same shots become less reliable 30 mins later.
It literally can’t be anything else. Haha

Stern flipper fade is a well known phenomenon. WMS flippers would fade a little but Sterns have always been more pronounced.

#3638 2 years ago

So could this be a special flipper coil type game like LOTR or what?

#3639 2 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Not true on my game. A shot that’s a guarantee no doubter lock on game one, will be 50/50 by game 3-4. Same for the demo mouth. That same spot on the flipper that was 100% mouth before will now be 25-30%.
Somethings up homie.
I’ve had my pitch from 6.0 to 7.5 and doesn’t seem to make a difference on my game. So I put it to 6.5-6.6 range and left it.

Thanks. You just saved me some time this weekend, then. Has anybody filmed it in slow mo to see what's going on? This and the JP ball plunge (and T-Rex) issues are like two problems taking a huge dump on two otherwise awesome games. Really frustrating.

#3640 2 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Not true on my game. A shot that’s a guarantee no doubter lock on game one, will be 50/50 by game 3-4. Same for the demo mouth. That same spot on the flipper that was 100% mouth before will now be 25-30%.
Somethings up homie.
I’ve had my pitch from 6.0 to 7.5 and doesn’t seem to make a difference on my game. So I put it to 6.5-6.6 range and left it.

Might be worth trying an iphone app that calculates the speed of an object from video. Measure at the start of play and then again 30 minutes later to see if the flipper power has faded.

https://apps.apple.com/us/app/speedclock-video-radar/id400876654

#3641 2 years ago

Did some slo mo stuff before I got that pdf from stern to show them my initial issues. I feel my game is dialed. Now I need flippers that can keep up. Haha

#3642 2 years ago

It does feel sometimes like the flippers should go higher than 250.

#3643 2 years ago

If flipper power gets weaker as you play games than maybe you need to install an under playfield fan to keep the flipper coils cool, or what ever is powering the flippers. Same concept as keeping a computer processor cool as it will loose performance as it gets hot. Just a stupid guess.

#3644 2 years ago

I joined the club this week with a Premium. I’m quite happy so far. No major issues. A few air balls at drops and some off of the demo. I’m not the best player, but my son regularly hits the TK lock and centers the demo mouth.

I installed the UV kit today. It’s really nice!

Does anyone know if the side panel art has been done with UV inks on it? That would be nice.
81320248-CF1B-4C61-BA48-BADACBE80880 (resized).jpeg5FA617C1-0DBB-44E4-BC22-E723FAA39E3A (resized).jpegDF07D195-1BA8-45EC-9A40-899885793C41 (resized).jpeg47CC1466-1440-452D-A2BC-B06817147544 (resized).jpeg

#3645 2 years ago
Quoted from Nevus:

..Does anyone know if the side panel art has been done with UV inks on it?

I installed the official Stern side art. No UV ink. However, they do look great IMO.
I'm SURE tilt or pingraffix will make some with UV ink

#3646 2 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Also I’m still convinced at least on my game the power of the flipper reduce with extended play. Nothing else makes sense to me. Every single day my first game or two is 100% locks and 100% demo mouth hits. Then those same shots become less reliable 30 mins later.
It literally can’t be anything else. Haha

I thought this for a while also. I put an oscilloscope on it ( while streaming even) and couldn’t demonstrate it. The coil in any game will heat up with time and gain more resistance and thus get weaker, but I couldn’t demonstrate ant time difference between when the coil was energized and the limit switch triggered.

#3647 2 years ago
Quoted from twenty84:

I thought this for a while also. I put an oscilloscope on it ( while streaming even) and couldn’t demonstrate it.

The power to the flipper isn’t decreasing. The heat created is causing it to struggle. I don’t think that scope would detect that would it? You’d need to have something that can measure the force the flipper is creating I think.

How else could this possibly be explained? I mean it’s so consistent in this behavior on my game.

I’ve been talking with Brian Eddy about it and he has some ideas. We shall see.

#3648 2 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

The power to the flipper isn’t decreasing. The heat created is causing it to struggle. I don’t think that scope would detect that would it? You’d need to have something that can measure the force the flipper is creating I think.
How else could this possibly be explained? I mean it’s so consistent in this behavior on my game.
I’ve been talking with Brian Eddy about it and he has some ideas. We shall see.

If it was taking longer for the flipper to hit the limit switch the scope would detect that. It would also detect if the power supply voltage was dropping. I'm confident that neither of these is the problem. The coil does heat up with time and the resistance increases - I was able to measure both of these but this is true of any game. You could put an accelerometer on the flipper, I haven't done that. Its possible that to make the TK lock work it will only occur at the very limits of the flipper power, but I'm no longer convinced this is the case and a friend of mine actually had to turn the right flipper down. At one point I thought about putting a fan on the flipper coil to see how much it prevented them from heating and see if this made a difference. I never did this because eventually I got my TK lock to work better, or at least I feel like I did. There are always weak shots that don't make it.

I'm curious what Brian Eddy thinks about this since you have been in contact with him? It is very curious that the flipper coils are different on the right and left sides in this game.

We are in agreement that it is very difficult to get this mech to work properly. I'm open to the possibility that it may be a combination of things that cause this.

#3649 2 years ago
Quoted from twenty84:

I've been where you are in terms of frustration with this mech. I've now gotten mine to work pretty well. There seem to be a lot of opinions on this, but here is what I did:
1. Put lock washers on the back where the solenoid plate is held to the back box. Even if you get it set up like it shows in the PDF it often doesn't stay there long. You need to have the ramp further forward (towards the player) than the magnet cover like the Stern document shows. Your ball is probably loosing some energy hitting the magnet cover. If you are tightening the snug plate screw that is probably the problem. In my opinion this screw isn't needed at all, and making it too tight will cause issues.
2. Make sure the mech moves freely. I've seen some put some tension in the form of a rubber band that pulls the joint at the back of the mech up which seems to help. Some have put WD-40 on here, but I don't think that is needed and will probably just collect dirt over time.
3. The rod needs to be as close to the back of the ramp as possible so the mech so the ball will be more on top of the rod than getting pinched by the rod if that makes sense. They don't provide any appropriate adjustment for this but many of us have put something between the ramp and the backboard (such as a washer covered in electrical tape). Obviously this needs to be done so the rod still moves freely. There is not a lot of play here but a little can go a long way.
4. The ball needs to enter the curve on the lateral part of the ramp to keep it from losing too much energy to the back wall of the ramp. You can lower the outside of the ramp slightly (it requires a different standoff to be used) but this is limited by hitting the mech if you go too low. You can also raise the medial side of the ramp with a washer. You can also loosen the screen on the right side at the bottom of the ramp by the flap. There is not a lot of potential for movement here but a little can go a long way. I've also heard of placing a thin triangular piece of rubber or other material under the reflective decal (it peels right off and is just as easily replaced) so that the wide part is at the top as to push the ball more lateral as it goes up the ramp.

Thank you very much for all of this info. Much appreciated

#3650 2 years ago

Just saw the no points awarded "where's barb" 40 mil glitch tonight. My son wasn't very happy to say the least.

I bet we'll be seeing a .91 update to fix this sooner than later.

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