what color is your saucer arrow during TI? actually just got there and it was yellow like the rest of 'em

The last few times it has been red and blinking, the 2x blinks along with it but hitting the shot doesn't collect 2x, at least thats what I remember. Im running 1.05 cleland code on a pro. If im luck and i get to TI again all snap a shot or video to show. Other than the coloring, it seems to register shots just fine

After a handful of poor games with a month off, I got my flow back a little bit. Still scared to finish S1 wizard mode after I ran into the game ending bug on it on 1.05 upon completion - have been draining when I get the demo kill shot.

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i thought the game ending bug was during the "bonus lap" mode after final showdown?

On the previous code version, I believe so. On 1.05 they allegedly fixed that but me and at least one other pinsider bugged when completing the S1 wizard mode.

I think the Snowball bug was fixed and this new one, introduced.

How do you get the MXV skill shot?

Its really more of a luck shot than a skill shot.

I installed the updated ramp cover today and it GREATLY improved the TK lock, in fact after installing it I did not even have to adjust anything else. With that said, I did do all the measurement adjustments before installing the fix. Prior to installing the cover the lock would work one out of ten times, now it works nine out of ten times. It is 100% night and day difference! I would recommend anyone who is having trouble with the TK lock to install the new ramp cover before or after doing the measurement adjustments. I

Has anyone installed one of these?

Stranger-4-bank-001 (resized).jpg

I installed it on mine but thinking of taking it off. Balls get hung up on it a lot.

Thanks for the info.

It shouldn’t be necessary if you make sure the drop targets are slightly above the playfield.

How do you adjust that? Mine are just below, there are no washers from the bracket to the playfield underneath, and I've got a small chip where that cliffy is...

Thanks for the detailed post. I was able to add the LED's to mine.

There are two screws on the bottom of the mech that adjust a bar which moves the height of the drops

I am just going to use a little of that window cling type mylar where my drops are, that stuff works awesome for high traffic areas and it comes right off if you decide you don't want it there.

speaking as someone that installed all of the cliffys before i ran the first ball through the game, no, you do not need them, at all

I like to put his protectors on the shooter lane and trough. Depending on the machine the inlane drops from ramps sometimes really need it even tho those are prone to ball hangups. When it comes to the other ones there are pros and cons. Like balls getting hung up on the drop one.

yeah they do be getting hung up there. good way to tell if your machine is level though

edit so as to avoid a double post: an interesting side effect of waxing my game and backboard has been that sometimes if the locks aren't lit the ball will go through the ramp fast enough to fly out and hit the demogoron in the back of the head, then ricochet back in to the ramp

can't even put up more than 400 million on this thing now!

2nd opto under the left ramp is out. Downpost would fire on start up till operator error message popped up on lcd. Checked and want obstructed, vacuumed and swiffered the area to be sure it wasnt debri. Lifted playfied to get to the optoboards and see if anything came loose, and everything looks okay. Contacted distributor who forwarded to Stern. Hopefully getting optos and wiring harness but will settle for whatever. Had bad optos on my previous NIB, anyone else have issues with optos going out so soon?

Yep. My screen ramp opto went out after about a month out of the box.

Has anyone swapped these out for color posts?

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Long shot ….. does anyone happen to have the Mezel illuminated drop targets kit and aren’t going to use or need it ? Willing to sell it to me and happy to ship to the UK ?

Told you it was a long shot

yes, you have to remove the entry ramps to get at the screen mounts to loosen them. Once the screws to the mounts are removed you can tilt the screen back to get at those posts. Not hard just time consuming.

Thx

What color did you install? Any pix?

I don't think I do. Next time I'm downstairs I can get you a pic. I use the perfect play rubbers all around in the purple. Looks good when on the machine and they react to the uv light by going pink.

https://www.pinballlife.com/perfectplay-1-116-thin-stern-compatible-rubber-post-sleeve.html

They won't last as long as the hard rubber ones stern uses if you don't round off the far left and right drop targets. They hit the posts from ball strikes and dig into them badly. My original stern black ones were ripped in half which is why I replaced them. It does look awesome with the purple all around.

Some pics of the purple on the machine before I did the posts are here https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stranger-things-club-join-our-party/page/201#post-6260228

some pics when I was doing the work to replace them. Note that I was doing more than just the posts so there is more torn down than needed. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stranger-things-club-join-our-party/page/201#post-6260793

and a pic of rounding off the drops with the purple on https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stranger-things-club-join-our-party/page/202#post-6262070

Cool.

I was thinking about going with the Titian Glow ones, the purple looks good too!

i think i got kind of lucky in that my saucer eject never hits that post, because i don't wanna take the screen apart

it ejects and if it doesn't hit the last standup, it goes a little way up Burn it Back, then comes down off of the back side of left standup on the right ramp to richochet to the left flipper for a catch. now that i've waxed the game once in a blue moon it will make the whole loop but i feel fortunate that it doesn't hit that post

The outer drops themselves can do a tremendous amount of damage to the posts as well when they are hit at least on my machine. In that pic above you can see where the corners of the outer drops are creating a line. Mine eventually split the rubber in half as each hit not only causes the corner of the drop to hit it but then it slightly rotates the rubber. After a good number of plays it had rotated around enough to be completely cut in half. I don't know if stern ever saw this wear issue and addressed it in later builds. Simply rounding the back of the drops resolves a lot of it. The ball hitting the post doesn't do much.

If stern did fix it in a later release I'd love to see what your drops look like. I don't think I rounded mine enough as the replacement ones are now looking nearly the same.

PXL_20220503_181104257 (resized).jpgPXL_20220503_181114901 (resized).jpgPXL_20220503_181125231 (resized).jpgPXL_20220503_181133926 (resized).jpg

like...~1700 games

they definitely have not changed it and they are hitting the posts. If you shave off some of the corners those post rubbers will last even longer.

Has anyone seen any wear on their Demogorgon Bash Toy, thinking about buying an extra for safe keeping...

no, it's a rubber of some kind and seems to be well painted. I doubt it will take any real damage. Mine pretty much looks the way it did when I got the machine. Now I may buy one because mine is showing the right side of the metal mouth bit. I was told that is normal but it sucks to see the metal when I look at it

throw a little wax on that bottom lip too btw

Got a pic?

After much work and removing the left ramp and plastics for the 4th time, I finally got the left orbit to feed the left flipper every time and the kick out to go around the inner orbit 75% of the time. I like the game so much I felt like I needed to keep trying.

I appreciate all the info in this thread...especially the Youtube videos.

Well, I decided to make my own lit up Hopper's Blazer. I actually made 3, one for me, one for my Son, and one for a close friend. Yep, we each have a Stranger Things - 2 Pros and a Premium. I actually bought the 3 Blazers back in 2020 for only $11 each. The cost each for the LEDs, resistors, circuit board, and wiring - under $10. Engineering and assembly time - waaay to much but it was fun and I'm glad that it's finally done! Will mount them in the back right corner and using the 12v board supply in the back box. Attached is a shaky video of all 3 - I'm just all out of steam to make a smooth fancy one!

I did the same! It was fun drilling into the siren lights. Pain in the arse to get the headlight wiring in. You have to dremmel out most of the chassis. Also be careful doing shrink wrap on the wires. I melted the inside of Billy’s Camaro.

I do like how the lights cycle in and out of sync.

That's actually a very good suggestion, I was going to order through Pinball Life for other parts I need, might as well throw some rubbers in it. So the purple rubbers will turn pink, provided I pick up the "Perfect Play" models, right ?

As for rounding your target, how did you do it ? using a small file (not sure of the correct term) ?

Yeah the perfect play purple ones. I used a razorblade and just shaved the corner off. I didn't want to sand and create really small particles

Sorry if this was asked before. Anyone ever made a working projector on a pro?

nope. can't even find a replacement projector, at this point

is it wrong of me to not care that much and just spend the four bucks to replace them when they need it? lol

I just thought of an enhancement request that I’d love to see - I don’t know if it’s possible. The UV lighting is so good, I can see the ball much better during Upside Down. I’d love it if the UV alights stayed on at say 50% for the entire game, and then behaved like they normally do now (100% during Upside Down, flashing during DG battles). Just a thought. It seems silly for me to add more lighting when the UV is sitting there off most of the time.

It's your machine, do what you want.

i think thematically it makes sense for the upside down/UV to be kind of scant. they don't spend very much time there on the show, and the effect would be less striking if it were always on. my $.02