(Topic ID: 258046)

Stranger Things Club. Join our Party!

By chuckwurt

4 years ago


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Topic Stats

  • 22,215 posts
  • 974 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 hour ago by Xdetroit
  • Topic is favorited by 397 Pinsiders

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Topic poll

“Which game are you getting?”

  • Pro 215 votes
    37%
  • Premium 233 votes
    40%
  • LE 132 votes
    23%

(580 votes)

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Topic index (key posts)

41 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 22,215 posts in this topic. You are on page 289 of 445.
#14401 1 year ago
Quoted from swampfire:

I connected a subwoofer today for the first time (using the new “sub out” pin on CN5), and I’m floored by how great it sounds. There’s a ton of detailed bass content in this game.

Agreed. I did it a couple months ago. Tried it on stranger things and Godzilla. Stranger things sounds pretty awesome with a sub. GZ not so much a change

#14402 1 year ago

So what’s the consensus, topper good??

#14403 1 year ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

So what’s the consensus, topper good??

It’s cool to look at.

#14404 1 year ago

the topper is really cool but if you're looking at it while you play you're doing it wrong between the purple and blue of the cab, the UV light kit and the topper, stranger things le might have one of the best art packages and light shows in pinball

for me the topper was just that. the topper. the icing on the cake. if you're laying out 7k+ for a machine is another $650 really so bad?

#14405 1 year ago
Quoted from SonOfaDiddly:

the topper is really cool but if you're looking at it while you play you're doing it wrong between the purple and blue of the cab, the UV light kit and the topper, stranger things le might have one of the best art packages and light shows in pinball
for me the topper was just that. the topper. the icing on the cake. if you're laying out 7k+ for a machine is another $650 really so bad?

That’s what I want to hear!!! Thanks, since I have the shooter, uv kit, blades and all the other stuff nice to add the icing. Just missing projector. Going to speaker light this baby with light blue rings. Can’t wait!

#14406 1 year ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

So what’s the consensus, topper good??

It’s a cool place to park $650 in the hope that it becomes $1500 some day. I’m “anti-topper’, but I got one and I don’t hate it at all.

#14407 1 year ago
Quoted from chubtoad13:

It’s cool to look at.

Thanks!!

#14408 1 year ago
Quoted from swampfire:

It’s a cool place to park $650 in the hope that it becomes $1500 some day.

#14409 1 year ago
Quoted from chubtoad13:

It’s cool to look at.

It also changes colors depending on the mode and whatnot. For instance when battling the demo it goes all red, when awarding bonus it does a chasing light sort of thing (if I remember correctly, I haven’t played for a few days). It’s neat. Do I notice any of that while I am playing? No. Do I notice and think it’s cool when others are playing? Yes. In fact once you know the light color/scheme for each mode you can be across a room and know what the player is doing at that particular point in time, which is sort of a unique feature of the design.

#14410 1 year ago
Quoted from swampfire:

It’s a cool place to park $650 in the hope that it becomes $1500 some day. I’m “anti-topper’, but I got one and I don’t hate it at all.

And it’s WAY better than the one on Deadpool (my Deadpool one is back in the box, I put my homemade bobble head topper back up there).

#14411 1 year ago
Quoted from MasterBlaster:

It also changes colors depending on the mode and whatnot. For instance when battling the demo it goes all red, when awarding bonus it does a chasing light sort of thing (if I remember correctly, I haven’t played for a few days). It’s neat. Do I notice any of that while I am playing? No. Do I notice and think it’s cool when others are playing? Yes. In fact once you know the light color/scheme for each mode you can be across a room and know what the player is doing at that particular point in time, which is sort of a unique feature of the design.

Excellent!!

I had read on a previous post it was used more in attract mode rather than interacting with the game. So this is great to hear. I was getting it to entertain myself whilst my better playing mates were playing…

It’s like the lit shooter rod in AIQ, you don’t notice it when you’re playing but sure is pretty to the spectator. I guess once you start getting a lineup these accessories start to get their hooks in!

Thanks again everyone. Ordering today.

#14412 1 year ago

I suspect Mike V. was involved in the STH topper light shows, and he’s got the Midas touch. It’s killing me to wait for the side lights on Rush, because my LZ Premium is epic thanks to his work.

#14413 1 year ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

I had read on a previous post it was used more in attract mode rather than interacting with the game

Yeah, it’s totally the opposite. The attract mode looks like it’s just cycling through some factory-defined patterns. I’d love it if it got the same love as the game modes.

#14414 1 year ago
Quoted from MasterBlaster:

And it’s WAY better than the one on Deadpool (my Deadpool one is back in the box, I put my homemade bobble head topper back up there).

Ha! The only topper my deadpool has ever had was my NGG one because I have lent that pin to a mate and my wife said leave the topper at home since it’s a bit fragile. Anyways thought it was a great idea just to place on top of the backbox of deadpool safely out of the way. Friend came over that likes to nudge a bit…..

Straight down onto the HD glass of deadpool.

#14415 1 year ago

something about the infinity mirror is just so...damn...EIGHTIES

#14416 1 year ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

Ha! The only topper my deadpool has ever had was my NGG one because I have lent that pin to a mate and my wife said leave the topper at home since it’s a bit fragile. Anyways thought it was a great idea just to place on top of the backbox of deadpool safely out of the way. Friend came over that likes to nudge a bit…..
Straight down onto the HD glass of deadpool.

Hahahaha I made that same mistake. D’oh!! Now I have a piece of thin plexi with the bobbles affixed to it via VHB tape. Then affixed the plexi to the top of the cab with command strips. I’m not gonna say it’s ‘nudge-proof’ now, but I’ve not had any airborne bobbles since.

#14417 1 year ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

Excellent!!
I had read on a previous post it was used more in attract mode rather than interacting with the game. So this is great to hear. I was getting it to entertain myself whilst my better playing mates were playing…
It’s like the lit shooter rod in AIQ, you don’t notice it when you’re playing but sure is pretty to the spectator. I guess once you start getting a lineup these accessories start to get their hooks in!
Thanks again everyone. Ordering today.

I think you mentioned that you’d also ordered the shooter rod, which is another fine choice. I’d say the shooter and the topper are nearly a tie for me…the lighted shooter adds a lot to the ambiance. If I had to choose between one or another I’d probably actually go with the shooter, just because you actually see it while playing a little more. But if you’re getting both…more better.

#14418 1 year ago
Quoted from MasterBlaster:

I think you mentioned that you’d also ordered the shooter rod, which is another fine choice. I’d say the shooter and the topper are nearly a tie for me…the lighted shooter adds a lot to the ambiance. If I had to choose between one or another I’d probably actually go with the shooter, just because you actually see it while playing a little more. But if you’re getting both…more better.

Yeah was a big AD&D nerd as a teen, so couldn’t resist that shooter!

#14419 1 year ago

I picked up an LE recently and joined the club. Question, What's the best way to protect this area? It takes a beating.

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#14420 1 year ago
Quoted from jake35:

What's the best way to protect this area?

Outline it in mylar. I think I posted the pattern I used here.

#14421 1 year ago
Quoted from swampfire:

Outline it in mylar. I think I posted the pattern I used here.

I’ve had mine closely outlined with mylar since day 1. Interior is getting beat up though, there’s a nice clear chip in the bottom. Planning on putting some down there too.

#14422 1 year ago
Quoted from blizz81:

I’ve had mine closely outlined with mylar since day 1. Interior is getting beat up though, there’s a nice clear chip in the bottom. Planning on putting some down there too.

Dumb question but how did you do it? Lay a piece over it, draw the outline, pull it off playfield, lay it on the table and then cut it out?

#14423 1 year ago
Quoted from jake35:

Dumb question but how did you do it?

Trace it with some paper or just cut out a piece of paper and keep trimming that to make a template, then use that template to cut the mylar. Once you apply the mylar, you can easily trim off the overhang at the edges with a craft knife.

I just did my shooter lane, Drain, and saucer. It didn't take too long, it came out nice, and does not affect play.

#14424 1 year ago
Quoted from jake35:

Dumb question but how did you do it? Lay a piece over it, draw the outline, pull it off playfield, lay it on the table and then cut it out?

It probably would have made more sense to lightly trace with a pencil but I like to do things unnecessarily hard, so I took a picture of the area, pasted the picture into a Word doc a number of times changing the size each time, then used the closest one to scale and touched it up as a template.

#14425 1 year ago

Finally dug into my "screen ramp opto" issue. I had to remove quite a bit to get to where I could try to adjust this. Couldn't get the thing to work. Currently, the screen ramp opto is stuck closed. This generally indicates a misalignment. I couldn't get the red light to light up on the opto pcb (indicating it is open and ready and talking to the other side), but the red light does flash at boot, indicating it has power. I also measure 4.4 vdc at each opto pcb. I went as far as removing the opto pcbs from the back of the screen/hawkins lab and plugged them in and tested them in my hands while holding them a couple inches apart, with perfect line of sight and still get no red light indicating they are talking to each other. So, my theory is one side or the other is bad. Fired off an email to Pablo to see what he recommends next, but I'm pretty sure one of the optos is bad. Hope this rambling is making sense.

#14426 1 year ago
Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:

Finally dug into my "screen ramp opto" issue. I had to remove quite a bit to get to where I could try to adjust this. Couldn't get the thing to work. Currently, the screen ramp opto is stuck closed. This generally indicates a misalignment. I couldn't get the red light to light up on the opto pcb (indicating it is open and ready and talking to the other side), but the red light does flash at boot, indicating it has power. I also measure 4.4 vdc at each opto pcb. I went as far as removing the opto pcbs from the back of the screen/hawkins lab and plugged them in and tested them in my hands while holding them a couple inches apart, with perfect line of sight and still get no red light indicating they are talking to each other. So, my theory is one side or the other is bad. Fired off an email to Pablo to see what he recommends next, but I'm pretty sure one of the optos is bad. Hope this rambling is making sense.

Had this same issue with mine. Picked one up NIB on this last build they did. The only fix was swapping in new optos Stern sent. Works like a charm now.

#14427 1 year ago
Quoted from jake35:

Dumb question but how did you do it? Lay a piece over it, draw the outline, pull it off playfield, lay it on the table and then cut it out?

If you use an xacto knife you can lay one big piece over the whole area and then make strategic cuts to fit it almost like a car wrap. Eg cut out saucer and then maybe a perpendicular line at the bend. Then stretch along the contour making sure it lays flat as you go.

#14428 1 year ago
Quoted from fifftysor:

Had this same issue with mine. Picked one up NIB on this last build they did. The only fix was swapping in new optos Stern sent. Works like a charm now.

That's what I figured. Pablo is always professional and responsive. Fingers crossed to get them soon. I wanna really focus on getting to the wizard mode.

Did they send you the pcbs that needed to be soldered or a new assembly with harness and connectors to plug and play?

-RC

#14429 1 year ago

When they sent me optos it was just the part. I had to solder them in.

#14430 1 year ago
Quoted from C0untDeM0net:

When they sent me optos it was just the part. I had to solder them in.

I don't know why you guys accept this sort of thing. Since pins are now the price of used cars, let's use a car as an analogy. If the starter went out on your car because of a failure of one of it's parts while under warranty, would the manufacturer send you that specific part and expect you to remove the starter and repair it? Eff no! They would either provide a bolt-in replacement or you would take it to a service center for repair at no cost. Since the latter doesn't happen with pins, the former should be the solution.

#14431 1 year ago

Pablo is great! I got stuck dealing with an Adam Spreadbury who is a condescending turd. Ended up just purchasing parts from PBL to fix stern’s mistake.

#14432 1 year ago
Quoted from robotron911:

I don't know why you guys accept this sort of thing. Since pins are now the price of used cars, let's use a car as an analogy. If the starter went out on your car because of a failure of one of it's parts while under warranty, would the manufacturer send you that specific part and expect you to remove the starter and repair it? Eff no! They would either provide a bolt-in replacement or you would take it to a service center for repair at no cost. Since the latter doesn't happen with pins, the former should be the solution.

how many pinball repair men are there out there vs car repair men? There is a grand total of 3 guys I know of in my area that do pinball repairs and they charge a good amount to come out to the house. As with car repairs, if you learn how to do it yourself it's a lot cheaper. Stern has sent me parts after nearly 2 years owning the machine. Just got a new playfield due to an issue with it 2 years later. Read the fine print on the Stern warranty. They generally go above and beyond IMHO

#14433 1 year ago
Quoted from C0untDeM0net:

Just got a new playfield due to an issue with it 2 years later

Do you mean that it took 2 years to get a replacement, or that you told them about the problem when the game was 2 years old? I’ve got an issue with my new Rush Premium playfield, and I’m hoping it doesn’t take that long to at least get a response.

BTW I agree, Stern is great with parts. I bought a TWD Pro and it was missing one of the rubber strips in the backbox. I emailed to ask where I could buy a replacement, and they just sent me one. Really good guys there.

#14434 1 year ago
Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:

That's what I figured. Pablo is always professional and responsive. Fingers crossed to get them soon. I wanna really focus on getting to the wizard mode.
Did they send you the pcbs that needed to be soldered or a new assembly with harness and connectors to plug and play?
-RC

No pcbs. Just the optos with the molex connectors.

#14435 1 year ago
Quoted from swampfire:

Do you mean that it took 2 years to get a replacement, or that you told them about the problem when the game was 2 years old? I’ve got an issue with my new Rush Premium playfield, and I’m hoping it doesn’t take that long to at least get a response.
BTW I agree, Stern is great with parts. I bought a TWD Pro and it was missing one of the rubber strips in the backbox. I emailed to ask where I could buy a replacement, and they just sent me one. Really good guys there.

The machine was coming up on two years old when the problem showed up. Inserts are ghosting and getting worse. Just received it a month or so back.

#14436 1 year ago
Quoted from swampfire:

Do you mean that it took 2 years to get a replacement, or that you told them about the problem when the game was 2 years old? I’ve got an issue with my new Rush Premium playfield, and I’m hoping it doesn’t take that long to at least get a response.
BTW I agree, Stern is great with parts. I bought a TWD Pro and it was missing one of the rubber strips in the backbox. I emailed to ask where I could buy a replacement, and they just sent me one. Really good guys there.

You guys rave about Stern (and others, but notably Stern) being "really good guys" and "Stern is great with parts". Stern should have to be neither. Simply have better quality control. It's not like these guys are turning out 100K units annually (and even then, it wouldn't be an excuse).

If a customer accepts shoddy quality, an incomplete product and terrible QC, then is it the manufacturer's problem or the customer? I would say the customer, as you vote with your pocketbook. And the overwhelming vote is that customers have FOMO and will "buy now and complain later". This goes for ALL pinball manufacturers. Stern just gets the most knocks because they are the biggest.

#14437 1 year ago
Quoted from robotron911:

If a customer accepts shoddy quality, an incomplete product and terrible QC, then is it the manufacturer's problem or the customer? I would say the customer, as you vote with your pocketbook. And the overwhelming vote is that customers have FOMO and will "buy now and complain later"

This is a straw man argument. The reason I keep buying new Sterns is that they’re reliably fun games, the code almost always gets finished, and I can handle the few issues that come up. You can keep waiting on the sidelines for a perfect HUO game if you like. I’m going to enjoy my new game, and I’ll sell it for a profit in a few years if I get tired of it.

As far as Stranger Things goes, you should grab one while you can. This promises to be one of the rarest Sterns ever made, especially the Premium and LE.

#14438 1 year ago

LOL, so true - until the perfect pinball company comes along, at least we have Stern.

Maybe virtual pinball is a perfect as it gets? Cheap, never breaks, never needs adjustment, never needs cleaning. I wish Farsight was still grinding out TPA versions of my favorites.

#14439 1 year ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

LOL, so true - until the perfect pinball company comes along, at least we have Stern.
Maybe virtual pinball is a perfect as it gets? Cheap, never breaks, never needs adjustment, never needs cleaning. I wish Farsight was still grinding out TPA versions of my favorites.

they break, computers break, the vibrations from coils or SSF vibrations will do a number on your displays. They are not maintenance free if you go for all the bells and whistles. Then there is the learning curve and keeping up to date. When I had mine up and running I would take a day a month to do upgrades and new tables. It was a lot of work. My virtual pin is now in storage and it sure wasn't cheap.

#14440 1 year ago

Hello I searched the Thread but couldn't found it with the search tool.
it's more of a rule question or if my machine has an error.

When ever I shoot the pumper, the rigth one (green) it scores on left loop (yellow).I know there is a gate (red) wich counts the left loop, but it seems that if the right bumper gets hit, it counts a mode point or in a mode it counts as left loop shot. In advancing the modes I kinda like it but in a mode it's sometimes weird.

Someone else has this?

Should it be like this or did I have some problems here?

Thanks for help

IMG_20220402_220907.jpgIMG_20220402_220907.jpg

#14441 1 year ago
Quoted from Lucxor:

it seems that if the right bumper gets hit, it counts a mode point or in a mode it counts as left loop shot

The pop bumper should not award a left orbit shot.

Maybe the 'red' switch needs adjustment? If you knock on the ramp does the switch test show the switch firing?

Maybe the wires or connector is swapped? If you test each switch, do they report correctly in the switch test?

#14442 1 year ago
Quoted from Lucxor:

Hello I searched the Thread but couldn't found it with the search tool.
it's more of a rule question or if my machine has an error.
When ever I shoot the pumper, the rigth one (green) it scores on left loop (yellow).I know there is a gate (red) wich counts the left loop, but it seems that if the right bumper gets hit, it counts a mode point or in a mode it counts as left loop shot. In advancing the modes I kinda like it but in a mode it's sometimes weird.
Someone else has this?
Should it be like this or did I have some problems here?
Thanks for help
[quoted image]

Adjust that gate switch. It’s too sensitive. It’s a common problem on this game. That gate switch should only register when the ball passes through it.

#14443 1 year ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

The pop bumper should not award a left orbit shot.

Quoted from chuckwurt:

Adjust that gate switch. It’s too sensitive. It’s a common problem on this game. That gate switch should only register when the ball passes through it.

Thanks for these inputs.
Sadly I can't check the machin for 2 weeks. As soon as I can I will do all these steps and come back here and let you know if I could fix it.

#14444 1 year ago

Put the game in switch test too and make sure those switches are registering properly as well. As mentioned, it’s possible the pop is registering as left orbit and vice versa.

#14445 1 year ago

I'm still trying to figure out this IC physical compatibility on a Stranger Things Pro with UV kit.

Another poster showed using a cutout behind the top right side apron plastic. Yes, there is a hole there, but there are no mounting posts or screw holes. And that UV board is still very close by...

What exactly are people doing on the Pro to make that work? (and please don't say 'put it in the coin door' - That's where the more important DBV goes )

#14446 1 year ago

While I'm waiting on warranty optos, I lit up my apron tonight. Tied it to a white GI bulb, so they will go off with the UV activates.

20220405_185909 (resized).jpg20220405_185909 (resized).jpg
#14447 1 year ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

I'm still trying to figure out this IC physical compatibility on a Stranger Things Pro with UV kit.
Another poster showed using a cutout behind the top right side apron plastic.

You will have to completely unscrew the whole camera thing from the apron, change the position of the screws so they are on opposite sides of where they where, then screw it into place on the UV apron. Its tight but it works!

#14448 1 year ago

I recently acquired a ST premium and am debating whether to keep it or my pro. Believe it or not, it isl a tough decision, particularly given the cost difference between the two.

Before I make my decision, I want to get the premium TK lock dialed in as much as possible. It works about 40% now so I had Stern send me the plastic that supposedly helps with the fix.

I have a tech coming over this afternoon to help with several issues with my other games so any additional tips or words of advice on dialing in a premium/LE TK lock mech we should be checking/implementing? Any insight is very appreciated.

#14449 1 year ago
Quoted from Utesichiban:

I recently acquired a ST premium and am debating whether to keep it or my pro. Believe it or not, it isl a tough decision, particularly given the cost difference between the two.
Before I make my decision, I want to get the premium TK lock dialed in as much as possible. It works about 40% now so I had Stern send me the plastic that supposedly helps with the fix.
I have a tech coming over this afternoon to help with several issues with my other games so any additional tips or words of advice on dialing in a premium/LE TK lock mech we should be checking/implementing? Any insight is very appreciated.

Tell you tech to follow this to a T. And once they think they’ve done it all, read it all again. Haha.

The key to getting this right is understanding how the adjustments change the behavior of of ball travel.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stranger-things-club-join-our-party/page/35#post-5472488

#14450 1 year ago

imho if the TK lock working 100% of the time perfectly every time is your decision point for which machine to keep, just keep the pro. it's a finicky mech, there's no getting around it

even with it dialed in after lots of work and rereading chuck's posts and the service bulletins there is still the odd shot that flies past the magnet or gets pinched by the arm because of the timing or a rattled shot, or whatever. also, once you've seen it once, you've seen it.

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