I did reach out to Cliff, he said a templateer should be helping him soon, but could be a while obviously as hes just one guy. Those few things I genuinely feel are important and will certainly give me a piece of mind. Im with you, I dont flip when the first ball drains, but it really takes your head out of the flow.

Curious to see if anyone else is having issues with the right orbit? Mine only makes it to the pops 10 percent of the time. Usually it rattles around just in front of the switch so I don’t get credit for the shot and will go up into the pop exit alley then come down hit a spot on the rail and go sdtm.

no issues making the right orbit here.

Yeah I am sure it will be fine. I just personally want it protected, it really is a personal thing. Just like after I put cliffys on my Metallica around the mushrooming magnets, after that, I just enjoyed the game more, haha. Now, thousands of plays later, game still looks amazing, so I want my stranger things to be the same.

Yeah its a super tight shot. I would say I am way better off than your 10 percent, but, I would say 50 percent of the shots are butter smooth, and 50 percent are rattling clunkers depending on how I hit it. This one MAY be intentional, but curious to see what others think.

I just got notification my titan rubbers are in, so tonight I am going to tear all the ramps out, change the rubbers, and give everything a good wax, including the orbit metal. Things certainly feel "sticky" compared to when I first played the game.

Which kit did u order for the rubbers? Im going to replace mine also and am not sure which to order.

Check page 35 of the manual https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/StrangerThings_Pro_web.pdf

There is no kit yet, I was going to upload one others could use, but seemed like a pain.

Just click this link https://www.titanpinball.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=33&product_id=52 and start adding to cart accordingly, everything the way its listed in the manual (OD vs ID, etc) corresponds to titans site, its pretty nice. Image of my order below for reference.

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I always go up 1/4 on the slings with titans now and also some others to get more original feel

Picked up my Pro today. The code was on 0.61 så I only played two games and updating it now. Hit the Demogorgon on the first play, did not really level the game at all so maybe a lucky hit.

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Congrats! On stock flipper settings, I had no trouble hitting the demo. However, on stock settings you get a lot of airballs. The challenge is to strike a balance between airballs and hitting the demo by finding the sweet spot on flipper strength and pitch. I'm at 6.8 and 210 and can hit the demo shot and have not airballs

Thank you!
I guess stock setting is max strenght on the flippers? I will try and dial this in, now the update is done and I will finally get to play

Just had my best game ever. Hit the first demogorgan on the second or third try. Then played the second one and managed to hit it twice one time being off the right flipper. First time I've ever done that on this machine. Big change was to use the digital inclinometer to adjust the pitch to 6.5 exactly at the drop targets. Interestingly it reads 6.31 at the flippers and these measurements are repeatable. Not sure if that means there is a sag in my playfield or what. I've never had something that could so accurately tell the incline. Going to look at what my munsters is set at next. I believe it's very close to 7 but we'll see. Flippers are currently set at 225. Plays so much better now that it's not floaty.

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Taking notes!

Haven’t been keeping up with the thread so, apologies if this type of info has already been posted. We have 3 of these on location, the post reliably fails around 400 plays.

Initially we tried to reinsert the nylon post into the metal core, and amazingly it’s really hard to pull apart by hand.. but still managed to work itself out over another 100 plays.

I went back to two part epoxy in the bottom, and will let everyone knows how that does.. this is the same thing I did for the Jurassic pro UR flipper post, and the Newton ball on the car though.

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I've had the ball lock post pop up twice. Super glued it once which didn't work. According to the manual (https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/StrangerThings_Pro_web.pdf page 44) the post is 6.56" long. You could use this one (https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/04-10703 or this one https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-19096) and cut it down assuming it fits in the Stern coil. The Monster Bash one that someone posted is too short but it looks like there's a set screw in it so maybe the ST plastic piece will fit?

I think they need more play testing in the QA area at Stern...

One thing I do to check accuracy of an inclinometer (spelling?) is to flip it 180 degrees at the measuring spot. If you don't get the exact same value (inverted) you need to understand what the diff is.

You guys try loctite on it? I’ve had success with it on other applications.

Loctite is thread locker, there are no threads on this.

My thoughts exactly. Sheesh. For 6k I thought I’d get a better quality machine. My goodness. I had a wiring issue right out of the box with my machine. Finally got it fixed after 2 weeks of troubleshooting.

Has anyone replaced the plastic up post with one of these? I’m concerned since my Stranger Things is on location.

New mechs of this style should be put into a rig, with a counter to test durability. I can see how a person would think, the post won’t work itself out given how hard it is to pull out by hand. But not testing and verifying is just plain “technical arrogance” when dealing with the design of a commercial machine.

That being said, the part is very serviceable. It’s three 1/4” hex screws to remove the mech from the playfield. The coil is attached to the play field wiring by a harness. And 4 screws that secure the mechanism to the assembly.

I’m more miffed about the dimples in the playfield and and ramp flaps than this post. Playfield protectors aren’t really a good option for games on location as they usually cause a lot of ball hangups.

The demigorgan requires the play field angle and ball velocity to be pretty specific to be reliably makeable. Which means as the playfield gets dirty and the flippers start to wear, the vans needs to be adjusted to compensate. For home use, probably not a big deal. I fear always having to adjust flipper power and incline every 1k plays or so.

Got mine yesterday, first nib ever.

Set it up level, no idea on slope but bubble right up top, guessing 7+, changed flippers to 190, backbox lighting to 30, speech attenuation to 40, pulled all gi and replaced, added trough light.

I'm a shit player, got demo 3rd attempt and getting it about 1 in 6 from each flipper.

Redecalling custom this weekend.
Custom translite at the printers.

Personal initial thoughts, cab pretty slap together, too much purple and pink everywhere, show was more dark and red.
Love the EQ option for sound but balance between music and sfx out for me. Looking forward to messing with pinball browser.
Gameplay fun, ramp flow reminds me of Theatre and there is the hint of afm there.
Plastic art pretty sad cut and paste photoshop will look at my own to replace.
Looking forward to code updates and more call outs.

But I love customising, love this theme, so more than happy with purchase. It's cool! Way cool!!

In in the stern army, but a conscientious objector!

I’ve heard dimples are Normal on playfields nowadays. It did concern me too once I started seeing them on my playfield. However, that being said, it appears that they’re starting to flatten out some. So. I don’t know. It is what it is I guess.

Just gave it a nice wax. Game is too damn fast ! Lol. It’s amazing how butter smooth this is with wax and titan rubbers. Feels so good.

I owe you a beer. I didn’t realize you could set the back box different for gameplay. Huge.

Who here thinks that during telekinesis multiball, that Modes should be suspended during the multiball? Personally , I think there’s too much going on during multiball to try and complete the mode that you were on. Just a thought.

Really enjoying the progression of this thread so far. We are actually discussing what needs to be accomplished to improve this title w/ constructive criticism. The other STh's thread is nothing but a pissing contest of unrelated drama & Stern bashing garbage. That thread just reminds me of a bunch of twelve year olds that have the answer to everything. Human nature never ceases to amaze me.

Agree 100 percent.

Also, if anyone else has changed their rubbers out, how in the blue hell did you change the one to the immediate left of the pop bumpers? I didnt bother changing that one, nor do I see the need to right now, but it certainly seems like you have to take the lower post off it wraps around. Even still seems like a bear to get back in there as it pinches the rubber in between the post and the rail for the burn it out loop.

I don’t know. Maybe then they should freeze the countdown of the mode?

It’s extremely common to stack modes/multiballs in pinball. This make strategy very important.

Take Star Wars for example, you can stack two modes at a time and also start a multi all with both modes running. Makes for some great high paced action plus makes it so everyone has a different attack strategy to the game.

Idk your pinball history but remember you saying this is your first new in box, just keep playing and you will start to get develop your own strategy for the game. I haven’t got to play this game yet but am really looking forward to it.

I believe you can stack 1 mode, telekinesis multiball, demodogs, and the first and third demogorgan if it's down before anything else starts. Makes for quite hectic play and a lot to do lol. I've definitely completed modes using multiball and for some it's a huge help because the modes are so short.

It’s not my first machine that I’ve purchased. It’s just my first NIB. I own a South Park. And the rule set to that game kind of suck. But yeah. I’m still trying to develop a strategy to this game. With all the problems I’ve been having with it, I haven’t been able to play for any length of time. Except for now. Problem has been fixed. So I’m spending more time with it.

Is there a reason you went with the thin flipper rubber over the standard sized one? I’m going to put my order in today as well.

I got the thick for my Metallica. I like them, but a little too bouncy. I really like the thin ones, no regrets.

Hmm. Maybe I’ll order both sizes and see which I like better.

And what about post sleeves? I wanted to order those as well but I don’t see any sizes in the manual.

My opto issue on the left ramp is back. Locking balls without any going near it. Had not happened since I last mentioned it and removed the bit hanging around it. Might have to call stern on this one.

Also, anyone else sometimes getting the mystery shot registering the completion of the drop targets? Happens from time to time. Seems like another potential opto issue.

This happens to me sometimes as well. Also, I go into modes without completing the amount of times I Have to go up ramps or orbit lanes. It’s weird.

Maybe it is a software bug then. I have reached out to stern to see what they say. Will respond back when I hear something

usually loose opto connectors. Try to determine if the problem is related to movement at all. shake the game, cab, etc. Normally the optos have enough leeway that it's not usually a physical alignment issue.. but usually the connectors, wires, followed by the optos themselves

I've tried shaking the game and that did not cause them to register. The optos are very securely mounted to the ramp and I was unable to get them to move. I've also put it in switch test mode and have not been able to get them to misbehave there either. I'll pull up the playfield tonight and reseat the connectors and see if that resolves it.

Plastic protectors. Yes or no?

Ok. So this just happened. The one way gate under my demogorgon toy broke or came loose. I can’t tell. How in the world do we get under there to fix it.

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Was able to fish it out of there. Looks like it got sheared on the right side as shown on pic. Don’t know where the other piece is though.

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That looks like an operators nightmare. How hard is that to replace?