(Topic ID: 258046)

Stranger Things Club. Join our Party!

By chuckwurt

4 years ago


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  • 22,215 posts
  • 974 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 hours ago by Xdetroit
  • Topic is favorited by 397 Pinsiders

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“Which game are you getting?”

  • Pro 215 votes
    37%
  • Premium 233 votes
    40%
  • LE 132 votes
    23%

(580 votes)

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41 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 22,215 posts in this topic. You are on page 151 of 445.
#7501 3 years ago
Quoted from Wildbill327:

That’s so cool on many different levels...Happy B-Day

Thank you!! I am still in shock.

#7502 3 years ago
Quoted from Joeymonkey:

Yes, flippers at 255. Will order the fans and contact Stern about the ramp cover. And I’ll keep futzing with the diverter and Ramos in the meantime. Thanks.

I'm probably not qualified to be giving advice on this yet, but I think mine is pretty close to being dialed in. The single biggest thing that helped the most was to take a slo mo video of the ball going up the diverter. You can really see more detail about what is happening when it goes up (pinching vs. too wide or not enough momentum). It appeared that the ball was not getting pinched because it was still spinning near the top of the diverter and then dropped back down. In my case, the biggest adjustment that helped the most was to put a washer wrapped in black tape behind the ramp. I did it in two places - in the corner under Eleven's face and also further over right under the magnet. My ramp was back too far and the washer pushed it out enough so that it was slightly in front of the back wall.

Mine works most of the time but I factor in that also sometimes it's not a good enough shot. You can't expect slower or sloppy shots to make it, necessarily.

#7503 3 years ago
Quoted from PinPickle:

I’m not sure what this would do to help things. Are people having the diverted arm rub on the ramp cover? I don’t think I’m anywhere near that. Or is it the ball clipping the top of it?

The cover stops the ball from flying off the ramp. It slows down the ball a lot. If you want to see, take it off. Your left ramp shots will fly off the diverter into the pop bumpers. Haha.

#7504 3 years ago
Quoted from BallyKISS1978:

Got this from my wife and kids today for my 50th birthday. They had it made. I am so blessed.
[quoted image]

Happy Birthday! I just turned 50 in January as well. Getting up there.

#7505 3 years ago
Quoted from palacekeeper:

biggest adjustment that helped the most was to put a washer wrapped in black tape behind the ramp.

Thank you for the tip! I just tried something similar, actually used the spacer from the Demogorgon behind ramp to move it out. And I hit three locks in a row for TK multi ( first one with the balls on back of machine). Not sure if it will work every time, but so excited to see them lock.

#7506 3 years ago
Quoted from Joeymonkey:

Thank you for the tip! I just tried something similar, actually used the spacer from the Demogorgon behind ramp to move it out. And I hit three locks in a row for TK multi ( first one with the balls on back of machine). Not sure if it will work every time, but so excited to see them lock.

If you hit three in a row, it sounds like you got it. Now add the fans and it will keep the flipper power consistent.

Also make sure to add blue lock tite to the screws that hold the diverter mech to the backboard to keep that in place.

#7507 3 years ago
Quoted from Flash71:

Happy Birthday! I just turned 50 in January as well. Getting up there.

Happy belated birthday to you also! Can’t believe I am at 50 now. Still feel like a kid in the mind, body no lol.

#7508 3 years ago

I’m running a Clelands code. Just curious what happens if I upgrade to the new code. Will it still work just with a few things off?

#7509 3 years ago
Quoted from hank527:

I’m running a Clelands code. Just curious what happens if I upgrade to the new code. Will it still work just with a few things off?

You lose it until he makes a version to work with the new code.

#7510 3 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Now add the fans and it will keep the flipper power consistent.

Fans are on their way!! Super pumped to get this game dialed in! So much work!

#7511 3 years ago
Quoted from Joeymonkey:

Thank you for the tip! I just tried something similar, actually used the spacer from the Demogorgon behind ramp to move it out. And I hit three locks in a row for TK multi ( first one with the balls on back of machine). Not sure if it will work every time, but so excited to see them lock.

Just passing along tips from other folks who helped me out with this. Awesome to hear you got it working!!

#7512 3 years ago
Quoted from JWE:

There will be a gap. I added a premium apron with a premium UV kit on my Pro. I closed out the apron gap with a modified Stern center drain ball guide bracket. https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/535-8393-00[quoted image]

Hi Guy , where I can buy this pinball rubber?
Many Thanks

#7513 3 years ago

Titan pinball. Glow in the dark.

#7514 3 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Titan pinball. Glow in the dark.

Thank you!

#7515 3 years ago

I ordered a NIB Premium and the UV kit yesterday - I am told the kits should be back in stock next week. Looking forward to receiving both.

#7516 3 years ago
Quoted from apessino:

I ordered a NIB Premium and the UV kit yesterday - I am told the kits should be back in stock next week. Looking forward to receiving both.

UV kit so worth it. Congrats!

#7517 3 years ago

Since there appears to be a bunch of new owners in the thread I want to bring an issue for Pro owners back up to attention. If you have not done so I would highly recommend you remove the left entry ramp and add some mylar or some other protection to your ramp decal. On the pro the decal is affixed to the underside of the ramp and since the ramp touches the ball guide it will cut through the graphic eventually as you play. I noticed it on my machine after about 3000 plays. Stern sent me a replacement graphic but it is not fun removing the old one and putting the new one on.

IMG_20201122_211846126 (resized).jpgIMG_20201122_211846126 (resized).jpg

#7518 3 years ago

Mine is wearing through, who did you contact at Stern.

#7519 3 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

You lose it until he makes a version to work with the new code.

So I can update my game with his card in it and it will be okay just won’t work the way it does now?

#7520 3 years ago

You can simply update your game with sterns code and it will overwrite the Cleland code.

Then when the custom code is available again, reflash the SD card with the custom code. Make sure to back up your settings before doing that.

#7521 3 years ago
Quoted from JWE:

Mine is wearing through, who did you contact at Stern.

I've been in constant contact with Pablo over my machines issues. I've had good luck submitting service requests through the contact us form to start with

https://sternpinball.com/support/contact-us/

#7522 3 years ago
Quoted from hank527:

So I can update my game with his card in it and it will be okay just won’t work the way it does now?

If you like his work and want to revisit it before he has a version that works with the new code but still want to play the new code, too, just image the new code onto a brand new SD, then remove the modified SD you have now with cleland modifications and drop in the updated one.

Now you have two SDs, one with the old code, but cleland's mods on it, and one with the new code. If you want to revisit cleland's version for a game or two, shut down, swap his SD back in, and reboot. Basically with two SDs, one with each version, you can play whichever you want, on demand, until he makes a version for the newest code. The changeover either direction only takes a minute or so, so super easy.

Just make sure you are using a Class10 SD card to image onto, and do not buy it from Ebay or Amazon as there are a LOT of fake Sandisk out there on both platforms. These are the ones I buy (they go on sale at Best Buy from time to time for as little as $10, and I stock up):

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/sandisk-extreme-plus-32gb-sdhc-uhs-i-memory-card/3990822.p?skuId=3990822

Instructions to image onto a new SD card as well as current images to use for each game:
https://sternpinball.com/support/sd-cards/

#7523 3 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

If you like his work and want to revisit it before he has a version that works with the new code, just image the new code onto a brand new SD, then remove the modified SD you have now with his code and drop in the updated one. then if you want to visit cleland's version for a game or two, swap his SD back in. Basically with two SDs, one with each version, you can play whichever you want, on demand, until he makes a version for the newest code.
Instructions to image onto a new SD card as well as current images to use for each game:
https://sternpinball.com/support/sd-cards/

Thank you for making my life a little simpler A great explanation that I hope all will bookmark and understand.

#7524 3 years ago
Quoted from C0untDeM0net:

I've been in constant contact with Pablo over my machines issues. I've had good luck submitting service requests through the contact us form to start with
https://sternpinball.com/support/contact-us/

Thanks a lot, I’ll give it a try.

#7525 3 years ago
Quoted from hank527:

So I can update my game with his card in it and it will be okay just won’t work the way it does now?

I bought a onn. 16GB Class 10 U1 SDHC Flash Memory Card at Walmart for $5.74 and works great for the cleland mod. No issues

B41BC039-9D73-4C93-9463-BF423517FC96 (resized).pngB41BC039-9D73-4C93-9463-BF423517FC96 (resized).png

#7526 3 years ago

Evening, everyone. Tried searching this thread for the answer but didn't see anything. I want to move mu outlane posts to the lower setting, but can't figure out how to get them out. I removed the bottom nut and took off the rubber on top, but I can't get the top nut to move. Anyone have any tips?
Thanks

#7527 3 years ago
Quoted from Joeymonkey:

Evening, everyone. Tried searching this thread for the answer but didn't see anything. I want to move mu outlane posts to the lower setting, but can't figure out how to get them out. I removed the bottom nut and took off the rubber on top, but I can't get the top nut to move. Anyone have any tips?
Thanks

It’s just held in by pressure. Use a deep hollow shaft nut driver to um twist it a bit from the playfield then punch it through from underneath the playfield.

#7528 3 years ago
Quoted from Joeymonkey:

Evening, everyone. Tried searching this thread for the answer but didn't see anything. I want to move mu outlane posts to the lower setting, but can't figure out how to get them out. I removed the bottom nut and took off the rubber on top, but I can't get the top nut to move. Anyone have any tips?
Thanks

Prop the playfield on the service rails and tap it from below with a small hammer while you pull and twist it out from the top side. The small hammer is just a slight force-assist - you don't want to just smack it out with a big hammer because it may catch a thread edge and chip the clear.

#7529 3 years ago

Thanks, Vireland and Chuck, I tried to get it but unfortunatley didn't have a deep enough nut driver, so I couldn't do it. Will go to the Depot and try and get the proper tools.

#7530 3 years ago

Just pinch it with some needle nosed pliers and turn it a couple times. It’s just so it’s off the playfield when you punch it through so it doesn’t take up paint/clear with it.

#7531 3 years ago

I pretty much spent all day following every guide/post out here for the TK lock and I just can't get it to work consistently. Every time I make an adjustment (over 10 different attempts) it will work for 1 game and then after that I just get so many balls that go up halfway and then stop. It's def not getting pinched because I've used Slomo video it just seems like it dies from momentum. When I put the ball on the guide it touches the back and has enough room to not pinch against the guide. When I don't have the lock lit the ball flies around the ramp every single shot like butter it makes zero sense!

ST Premium, 6.5 angle, flipper fans, 255 flipper strength, literally the exact same position for the 4 screws on the mech that Chuck showed in his pic, tightened all the nuts it told me to tighten in the pdf even the one on the plunger arm.

I just feel like the angle of the guide that comes through the ramp is different than the pics I'm seeing no idea if that can even be adjusted.

Help please!

#7532 3 years ago
Quoted from IronMan8Bit:

I pretty much spent all day following every guide/post out here for the TK lock and I just can't get it to work consistently. Every time I make an adjustment (over 10 different attempts) it will work for 1 game and then after that I just get so many balls that go up halfway and then stop. It's def not getting pinched because I've used Slomo video it just seems like it dies from momentum. When I put the ball on the guide it touches the back and has enough room to not pinch against the guide. When I don't have the lock lit the ball flies around the ramp every single shot like butter it makes zero sense!
ST Premium, 6.5 angle, flipper fans, 255 flipper strength, literally the exact same position for the 4 screws on the mech that Chuck showed in his pic, tightened all the nuts it told me to tighten in the pdf even the one on the plunger arm.
I just feel like the angle of the guide that comes through the ramp is different than the pics I'm seeing no idea if that can even be adjusted.
Help please!

Have you tried pulling the ramp out from the back wall?

#7533 3 years ago
Quoted from Joeymonkey:

didn't have a deep enough nut driver

Should be 1/4" hex? Do you have a screwdriver with removable bits? Those are usually 1/4" hex and might be deep enough, or go Cary Hardy on it with some vice grips.

#7534 3 years ago
Quoted from IronMan8Bit:

I pretty much spent all day following every guide/post out here for the TK lock and I just can't get it to work consistently. Every time I make an adjustment (over 10 different attempts) it will work for 1 game and then after that I just get so many balls that go up halfway and then stop. It's def not getting pinched because I've used Slomo video it just seems like it dies from momentum. When I put the ball on the guide it touches the back and has enough room to not pinch against the guide. When I don't have the lock lit the ball flies around the ramp every single shot like butter it makes zero sense!
ST Premium, 6.5 angle, flipper fans, 255 flipper strength, literally the exact same position for the 4 screws on the mech that Chuck showed in his pic, tightened all the nuts it told me to tighten in the pdf even the one on the plunger arm.
I just feel like the angle of the guide that comes through the ramp is different than the pics I'm seeing no idea if that can even be adjusted.
Help please!

Are you sure the screws you tightened are not slipping a bit and the mech is moving out of adjustment? I had to put blue lock tite on them to get that to stay in place.

Also be certain the ramp is away from the back wall. There should be a noticeable hump you feel in the ramp as you run your finger from the ramp wall to the backboard. You need to push that one amp away from the wall as much as possible. Most people put something between the ramp and the back wall to help push it out. Something right underneath 11’s head to push out that corner, as well as the other end that is underneath the magnet.

#7535 3 years ago

Don’t you have the adjustable ramp cover stern sent? Did you try that? Can you post scans of those guides they sent you too?

#7536 3 years ago

The only other thing I would check is your diverter itself. With the plunger pressed on the back and the arm actuated, give the diverter a wiggle and check the play. Min was incredibly loose and once it tightened it up (still has play and moves freely) it helped a bunch.

Its tricky to get at but you can do it without removing everything.

Use 3/8” (if I remember correctly) wrench to hold the bolt underneath and bent needle nose or vice grips to turn the black hex screw.

I believe chuckwurt had an issue with this as well. His was gunked up from the washer and he applied some lubricant to get it to work a little more smoothly as well. I don’t know if he put blue lock tight on that bolt.

Goodluck

ED46492D-4711-42B5-979B-9916A9975593 (resized).jpegED46492D-4711-42B5-979B-9916A9975593 (resized).jpegFC1AEAB2-1705-4F97-B43F-4F9DBE140976 (resized).jpegFC1AEAB2-1705-4F97-B43F-4F9DBE140976 (resized).jpeg
#7537 3 years ago

No lock tite there. Only on the screws that hold the mech to the backboard.

I did have that pivot point all gunked up from the rubber pad that is underneath it. I cleaned it good with some alcohol, then applied a tiny bit of zoom spout oiler to it to keep it moving super smooth.

There should be some play in the arm when actuated, but not a ton.

#7538 3 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Are you sure the screws you tightened are not slipping a bit and the mech is moving out of adjustment? I had to put blue lock tite on them to get that to stay in place.
Also be certain the ramp is away from the back wall. There should be a noticeable hump you feel in the ramp as you run your finger from the ramp wall to the backboard. You need to push that one amp away from the wall as much as possible. Most people put something between the ramp and the back wall to help push it out. Something right underneath 11’s head to push out that corner, as well as the other end that is underneath the magnet.

I can get some blue lock tite and try that, with only using my eye the nuts have not moved since my last adjustment, they still match your pic perfectly.

I will try some spacers on the ramp to see if that helps.

As for the plastic guide piece I don't have that yet still in the mail.

#7539 3 years ago

Oh. I assumed that picture you posted was from you. I guess that was from someone else. Hopefully people get those adjustable covers soon. I would like to know if they work.

I would take all your measurements again once it starts falling short of the magnet. Are they all the same? If not, the mech shifted. A millimeter can change everything.

Also try pushing down the arm a bit more so the ball doesn’t need to climb as high.

#7540 3 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Oh. I assumed that picture you posted was from you. I guess that was from someone else. Hopefully people get those adjustable covers soon. I would like to know if they work.
I would take all your measurements again once it starts falling short of the magnet. Are they all the same? If not, the mech shifted. A millimeter can change everything.
Also try pushing down the arm a bit more so the ball doesn’t need to climb as high.

My arm doesn’t budge up or down. I noticed that in the instructions too. I could never figure out how to adjust that. I’m 1/32- 2/32 below 2” and it works. Just can’t play with the height.

#7541 3 years ago

Slightly below 2” is key from momentum on the divertor rod. Make sure you have that height.

#7542 3 years ago
Quoted from PinPickle:

My arm doesn’t budge up or down. I noticed that in the instructions too. I could never figure out how to adjust that. I’m 1/32- 2/32 below 2” and it works. Just can’t play with the height.

You just have to push it down. You’re essentially bending it down or up to your liking.

#7543 3 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Oh. I assumed that picture you posted was from you. I guess that was from someone else. Hopefully people get those adjustable covers soon. I would like to know if they work.
I would take all your measurements again once it starts falling short of the magnet. Are they all the same? If not, the mech shifted. A millimeter can change everything.
Also try pushing down the arm a bit more so the ball doesn’t need to climb as high.

Like chuckwurt said. Push down on that divertor rod so it’s just below 2” and make sure the divertor plate just lets the ball clear at its peaks. When doing all of this actuate with the mech not the arm itself.

#7544 3 years ago
Quoted from IronMan8Bit:

I pretty much spent all day following every guide/post out here for the TK lock and I just can't get it to work consistently. Every time I make an adjustment (over 10 different attempts) it will work for 1 game and then after that I just get so many balls that go up halfway and then stop. It's def not getting pinched because I've used Slomo video it just seems like it dies from momentum. When I put the ball on the guide it touches the back and has enough room to not pinch against the guide. When I don't have the lock lit the ball flies around the ramp every single shot like butter it makes zero sense!
ST Premium, 6.5 angle, flipper fans, 255 flipper strength, literally the exact same position for the 4 screws on the mech that Chuck showed in his pic, tightened all the nuts it told me to tighten in the pdf even the one on the plunger arm.
I just feel like the angle of the guide that comes through the ramp is different than the pics I'm seeing no idea if that can even be adjusted.
Help please!

10 attempts is nothing. Lol!! Trial and error. Follow all the key post and pictures and you’ll get it. I’ve prob got over 40 hours into it but it will dial in. Just gotta be patient and do things in small increments.

#7545 3 years ago

So glad I have a demo pro that was dialed in right out of the box. Can’t imagine premium owners frustrations.

#7546 3 years ago

I haven’t had to worry about mine for 6 months. Frustrating for sure, but it’s amazing when you get it.

#7547 3 years ago
Quoted from PinPickle:

The only other thing I would check is your diverter itself. With the plunger pressed on the back and the arm actuated, give the diverter a wiggle and check the play. Min was incredibly loose and once it tightened it up (still has play and moves freely) it helped a bunch.
Its tricky to get at but you can do it without removing everything.
Use 3/8” (if I remember correctly) wrench to hold the bolt underneath and bent needle nose or vice grips to turn the black hex screw.
I believe chuckwurt had an issue with this as well. His was gunked up from the washer and he applied some lubricant to get it to work a little more smoothly as well. I don’t know if he put blue lock tight on that bolt.
Goodluck[quoted image][quoted image]

I just realized, from your pictures, that the nut that I tightened earlier was not the one in this picture. I tightened the one at the base of the diverter, not the black one, and it wasn't loose, really. I'll go back and check the black one also when I get a chance. Every little bit helps - thanks!

#7548 3 years ago

Com’on IronMan8Bit don’t give up yet! I see you listed you’re ST Prem. That’s a mistake my friend. Once dialed in it’s an amazing title. Maybe the damage that was incurred to yours is why you’re having such difficulties. That stinks.

#7549 3 years ago

Weirdest thing..
After hundreds of games with VERY limited success of making it into the demogorgon mouth, the other day something changed. I can't explain it, but now the ball frequently makes it into the mouth. As in a few times each game now. I didn't change a damn thing!

#7550 3 years ago
Quoted from Flash71:

Com’on ironman8bit don’t give up yet! I see you listed you’re ST Prem. That’s a mistake my friend. Once dialed in it’s an amazing title. Maybe the damage that was incurred to yours is why you’re having such difficulties. That stinks.

Yeah...at least meet me half way and I'll trade you a perfect pro! Not sure about that damage though...I hope he put in a claim to have the rail and hinge replaced at least.

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