They just picked up filming again last week after the delay of COVID, so they’re way behind. I don’t think they’re committing to a release date beyond 2021 yet, and even that is a stretch. Man, these kids are going to look even older than they should be (once again). That’s the problem when the seasons don’t skip years. How old were they supposed to be again in S3, 14?

At this point they are going to have to revisit the kids in College a few years later lol. None of them look like kids anymore.

Haha exactly!

as a pin owner with 3 kids, i can tell you, the 5-way-combo edges out the last kid. been there, done that.

sooooo....what makes "where's barb" give 40mil right off the bat? just had it happen to me for the second time.

started it, ball was wild and randomly hit some shot on the left (mystery loop maybe?) and it awarded 40mil.

even when i've found her before, it's way less than that...

that's it?

i swear i thought i'd found her on the first shot before and it had been way less.

good to know though...that's a really quick way to add some decent points.

¡Testify!

There is a shot that tells you where she is, correct?

"I knew this day would come for you"

Ok... so getting the 40mil for finding her on the first shot is pure luck then by the sound of it... unless there's a 'secret pattern'

That’s freakin’ cool

YES!!!!

Having trouble dialing in the diverter mech on the TK lock on my LE. When the coil is engaged, does your diverter have back and forth play in it? In other words, if I reach behind the back panel and engage the plunger mech for the lock diverter, I can move the diverter arm back and forth 1/4" or so (with the coil plunger pushed in). I'm trying to determine if this is by design or not. My shots stick about 1/3 to 1/4 of the time, and the other times they scream back down the ramp SDTM. I did all of the adjustments per the Stern PDF on chuckwert's post.

I did some recording to help someone debug but did it in 120fps and its a great slomo!

Cool... that's quite an air-ball at 4:36!! Does the game often cause air-balls off the slings?

Seems like you need to lower the Domogorgan a bit...

I have the same issue. My probably works a little more often than you're reporting, but not nearly enough. In continuing to tinker with it, I noticed what you did, there's still play with the plunger. It *seems* like the extra movement absorbs the momentum of the ball, which leads to rejects. I followed the guide as well, and the coil is properly secured, but there is still lateral slack in the diverter pin, at least on my game.

The ramp to the Demogorgan coming down at the speed in the video looks cool... any way to slow the ramp down in reality so it lowers slower? The slower ramp kind of ties in with the scale of things... I can imagine if that were to scale with the Demogorgan it would come down at about the speed in the video, if anyone knows what I mean...

Hadn't thought of slowing the ramp, but a resistor on the motor lead would slow the motor RPMs if you want to slow the ramp reveal.

You don't want to slow the ramp. If you did, you'd want to kill yourself during the 4th and 5th demogorgon modes when the ramp keeps moving up and down.

Well, I guess it depends a bit on what makes the ramp decide to move... if it's based on time, and someone slows the opening down, it could never actually get down! But if it's based on it hitting a closed limit switch, it could work... that and playing with the open/close rate... it would make it more like the drawbridge on MM, or the dropping target bank on AFM... now if the designer of those games had anything to do with this game I bet he'd have wanted it slow!

I might play with that a bit... my electronic skills can just about stretch to soldering a resistor in place... might make it a pot. so I can adjust it... thanks for the tip!!

It would be nice if Brian would just save everyone the trouble and add a ramp speed option to the settings. It could even have sub-settings for successive demogorgons, so the first one is very slow and cinematic, but the ones after are more like it is now.

He's a nice guy who cares about your pinball experience, so maybe he'll acquiesce if you ask real nice and save you potentially disasterous soldering accidents.

I'll mention it to him...

Talked to Brian about it quickly and the limiting factor may be the torque needed to get the motor to start, so there is a lower limit to how low the power can be before the motor just won't start, so your idea of a pot might be the best idea since you can adjust easily. He also said they'd look into putting some settings after 1.0 is out if it's feasable.

Ah...I only made it to the fifth mode once, so I misremembered it moving. But that fourth mode is a bitch...

Well I dialed the TK lock in somewhat. Actually stuck 3 in a row before it went to 1 out of 3 or so for the rest of the session. I made several minor adjustments but can't seem to get it perfect. It seems pretty fickle, so not a great design on this mech imo.

Anyway, super fun game. The rules seem 90's throwback basically with some added depth. What kind of scores are you guys putting up?

IMG_4579 (resized).jpeg

Thanks chuckwurt, I do not have them. I just picked the game up recently (NIB LE). Just installed the UV kit which is awesome. Who sells the fans?

They're in the pinmonk store:
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1170-pin-monk/04203-tibetan-breeze-flipper-coil-cooling-kit

(thanks for the recommendation, Chuck)

installed these yesterday, wow what a difference.
game is so much better, have not had one reject from tk lock when nailing the shot.

highly recommend these.

The different speed settings would be awesome... You could do it manually by soldering a pot. to the motor lead and running it to the coin door and then adjust the speed yourself according to which demo mode you're in

Quick question. I add the cooling fans (awesome btw) and moved my britebuttons mod to the CN2 space because the fans use CN11. But I don’t get any power to the buttons. When I switch back, they light up. So it seems I need to turn the CN2 power on in settings?

hadn't really noticed it but will watch out for it. The Demo is ok just need to play better

CN2 is 5V, CN11 is 12V. Also, the pinouts are not the same. So CN2 is a dead-end if you need 12V.

CN3 and CN4 are 12V (different pin arrangement).

CN9 is for the dollar bill acceptor and is also 12V.

12V_alternatives_Spike2 (resized).jpg

yeah I have the decal just need to find away to stick it back on! I'll have a look at the projector thanks.

Thank you! The best you are.

Need new pin connector. Any idea what one I should order?

Thank God I wasn't the only one.

Vic will take care of you. He's really pretty awesome.

I'll PM you. It's really not clear cut and mostly subjective.

I’m incredibly close to pulling the trigger on a Premium - in large part thanks to the great stream chuckwurt uploaded to YT with the camera in the players position - but I’m hesitating because I 100% need the UV kit and can’t find it in stock anywhere, and I’ve also heard they’ve been on back order for a while now.

I’m in London but would pay to ship from Europe or the States if I could find one - does anyone know of anywhere with stock?