(Topic ID: 158965)

Strange WPC reset related to lamp matrix (even with RKAHR)

By altan

7 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 10 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 years ago by Pin_Guy
  • Topic is favorited by 7 Pinsiders

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#1 7 years ago

Last night I noticed a strange reset on my Road Show. My Road Show doesn't reset during game. Prior to last night, I would have said it doesn't reset at all. It was basically an accident I ran into this.

It only resets if I power it on, quickly go to tests, and do "all lamp test". Lights barely turn on and it resets.

This happens about 50% of the time when I repeat the process (from cold start --- aka power off)

Interestingly, when it happens... if I let it reboot on it's own and go back into tests, it will typically reset again one more time when I do "all lamp test". But if I let it reboot and do it a 3rd time, it runs.

If I repeat the process and do individual lamps or the row/column, it never resets.

I'm wondering if 18v used for the lamps can't handle all lamps enabled until caps charge up? Maybe this really is a c6/c7 issue? (I think those are the two)

Again, never resets during gameplay or if I run the all lamp test a little later.

Oh, I have one of the RKAHR 5v product. I don't run with it normally, but I used it for debugging. It resets with it attached and the "low 5v" light doesn't come on...

Thoughts?

#2 7 years ago

On a related note, I never noticed that C6 and C7 are in parallel. Since each is a 15,000 uF, this acts like a single 30,000 uF cap.

Also, I need to really see if my RS will reboot WITHOUT the KAHR device. In theory, this could be an odd situation where my "traditional driver board generated" 5V is strong but my 18V isn't that great and, because I've installed the KAHR (which uses the 18V to make the +5 itself), is causing the reset.

Just thinking outloud.

#3 7 years ago

I suspect someone will find this interesting.

Tp8 (18v) shows over 2.6vac (max)

Tp3 (12v Reg) shows over 1.4vac (max)

Unless someone thinks otherwise, this seems to support my c6/c7 speculation.

#4 7 years ago

Replaced c6/7. Realized that prior work didn't seem to have connected the + ends of c6/7 together.

Got it back in game, but had a hard stop. So I haven't been able to test!

Will test when back home.

#5 7 years ago

All fixed.

Turned out that my 18v wasn't real solid. While this appeared to make no difference in stock config (no resets), it did cause the KAHR product the reset my RS.

With new caps the 12v Reg (which is generated from the 18v) never drops below 11v.

#6 7 years ago

I am replacing Q1 and Q2 on every WPC driver that comes through my door with the EZ SBC regulators.

They are a must on WPCs. They do a nice job stabilizing the +12 regulated. I also replace C2, as it is often used up and is leaking a small portion of the time, damaging traces beneath C2 which will eventually take the +12 out completely.

#7 7 years ago
Quoted from johnwartjr:

I am replacing Q1 and Q2 on every WPC driver that comes through my door with the EZ SBC regulators.

Could you share more info about this?

#8 7 years ago
Quoted from lyonsden:

Could you share more info about this?

Absolutely.

This guy replaces the LM323

http://www.ezsbc.com/index.php/featured-products-list-home-page/psu5.html#.Vyo9i2Za4yM

Benefits? It's adjustable, and produces zero heat. $9 for this, versus $5-10 for an original LM323 just about anywhere anymore. The LM323 is actually an adjustable regulator, but the WMS driver board didn't have the provision built into the board to make it so.

You need a tiny phillips screwdriver to adjust it - like a #000. I like to set mine so 5.1 volts leaves the driver board on the far left pins, across from the CPU board. That takes care of any drop between the CPU and driver board. Ideally, everyone would repin these connectors when the drop gets noticeable, but in the real world, a lot of people don.t

This guy replaces the 7812. $6.95

http://www.ezsbc.com/index.php/featured-products-list-home-page/psu3-12.html#.Vyo-L2Za4yM

It's not adjustable, but it does a damn good job of regulating the +12, produces zero heat as well. You can remove the heatsink! Every board I stick it in, it's at 12 or 12.01 volts and it's a nice stable supply.

#9 7 years ago

Awesome! Thank you, John!

#10 7 years ago
Quoted from johnwartjr:

I am replacing Q1 and Q2 on every WPC driver that comes through my door with the EZ SBC regulators.

Thanks for adding this information, it's good to know there are alternatives available.

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