If your clock starts moving and keeps moving when power is first applied, it could be a couple of things.
The motor driver chip on the DC Motor Control Assembly A-16120 could be shorted.
The capacitor on this board C3, 100uf, probably 25v could be bad, causing this board to have unreliable power. I mention this because Opto boards with a similar capacitor have had a lot of failures lately due to the 100uf capacitor going bad.
Other components on this board may have failed, like the optoisolators.
Truth be told, the motor driver chip or the opto isolators are unlikely, the capacitor is somewhat likely.
This board is controlled by the 8 driver PCB assembly A-16100 (I think this is in the backbox).
It could be a shorted transistor on this board, Q9 or Q10, or their pre-drivers Q3 or Q4. Possibly.
However, this board is controlled by a ribbon cable! And ribbon cables can be problematic. This ribbon cable stretches from J1 on the 8 driver PCB Assembly A-16100 to the CPU on J104. If this ribbon cable isn't making good connection it could definitely be the problem. Re-seat both sides of this ribbon cable.
Now, if your clock stays inert until the game is booted, and then it starts spinning, I would look to the clock test. Make sure that the optos are all activating in the clock test mode.
Let us know what you find.
Also, while I understand that it may be very challenging to find a local pinball service technician, you might want to get a repair person to your house. There are multiple boards, multiple connections here. Look in your manual on page 3-12, 3-13, and 3-22.
A skilled pinball technician can quickly determine where the problem is, and will likely have the parts to fix it. (If it isn't the motor control chip, that's a rare failure!)
If you need to send boards out, you are going to be unplugging quite a lot of things, and removing a lot of boards. Take pictures of each step!
Good luck!
Added 6 months ago:
10-6-23 I posted here that the opto failure was rare, but this seems to be becoming more common. U1 optoisolator has been the problem on several TZ clocks that I've repaired lately. The symptom is that the clock starts running as soon as the power is applied to the game and doesn't stop.