(Topic ID: 219883)

Strange Science display issue.


By Arcade

1 year ago



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  • 13 posts
  • 3 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by PinballManiac40
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#1 1 year ago

Fixing up a Bally Strange Science for a friend of mine.
His player 1 & 2 displays have an issue.
See photo.
However if the game is left on for about 30 min. The displays will be perfect.
What would be causing this.
Capacitor?
Bad displays?
IC chip?
Other?
I’m sure others have come across this. If so what should fix it?

F01F92B3-448D-41C5-9050-910B680F4979 (resized).jpeg
#2 1 year ago

I also can’t put the game into free play.
The keypad refuses to recognize any button on row B,4,5,6
And of course I need to input 65 to set game to free play. Lol
I have checked continuity on all wires from keypad to J3 and all is good.
Same problem on both original keypad and new modern keypad.
WTH
Can someone post a photo of the wires going into their keypad so I can see if mine are correct?

#3 1 year ago

Bump for the weekday crowd

#4 1 year ago
Quoted from Arcade:

Bump for the weekday crowd

Not sure if this will help, but there's an eBay auction for an original keypad with wiring somewhat "jacked up"

ebay.com link » Bally 6803 Pinball Replacement Original Keypad Strange Science Party Animal

The B,4,5,6 row should correspond to pin position #8 on the Keypad. That's counting over from pin #1 on the far left, when the keypad is facing you and the header pins are at the bottom.

Also just FYI, if you don't mind a bit of solder work I've got DIY Kits for brand new Bally 6803 Keypads here:
http://www.pinitech.com/products/bally6803_keypad.php

Those make it much easier to work with Bally 6803 games that dealing with those original keypads.

#5 1 year ago

Appreciate the info but the game owner had already purchased the replacement pintech key pad and it is doing the exact same thing.
The problem is in the wiring or cpu board.
I get continuity on every wire from the pad to the cpu. But I have no way to tell if the wires are in the correct slot on the pad without a working pads Photo

#6 1 year ago

If the diode on the display measures less than 100 ohms then I would replace it. Far as the wiring on the switch Matrix, I would redo the whole connector as the pins tend to come out of the IDC connector fairly easy

#7 1 year ago
Quoted from Arcade:

But I have no way to tell if the wires are in the correct slot on the pad without a working pads Photo

Check out Clay's site here.. there's a photo of the Keypad with wire colors somewhat visible.
http://www.pinrepair.com/6803/#keypad

Also a listing of wire colors:
Pin 1 - n/a
Pin 2 - n/a
Pin 3 - Blue/Brown
Pin 4 - Key
Pin 5 - Yellow/white
Pin 6 - Blue (two wires)
Pin 7 - n/a
Pin 8 - Orange/Green
Pin 9 - n/a
Pin 10 - Brown/White (two wires)
Pin 11 - Red/Green (two wires)
Pin 12 - n/a
Pin 13 - Red/White (two wires)
Pin 14 - n/a
Pin 15 - Red (two wires)

#8 1 year ago
Quoted from acebathound:

Check out Clay's site here.. there's a photo of the Keypad with wire colors somewhat visible.
http://www.pinrepair.com/6803/#keypad
Also a listing of wire colors:
Pin 1 - n/a
Pin 2 - n/a
Pin 3 - Blue/Brown
Pin 4 - Key
Pin 5 - Yellow/white
Pin 6 - Blue (two wires)
Pin 7 - n/a
Pin 8 - Orange/Green
Pin 9 - n/a
Pin 10 - Brown/White (two wires)
Pin 11 - Red/Green (two wires)
Pin 12 - n/a
Pin 13 - Red/White (two wires)
Pin 14 - n/a
Pin 15 - Red (two wires)

Acebathound to the rescue.
Great info sir.

Now onto my display issue....Bueller.....Bueller.....

#9 1 year ago
Quoted from Arcade:

Now onto my display issue....Bueller.....Bueller.....

That is my name. I'm waiting to see what you measure on the diode I mentioned.

#10 1 year ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

That is my name. I'm waiting to see what you measure on the diode I mentioned.

Totally skipped that post.
Hanging head in shame .

#11 1 year ago

If you use the diode test, I think a good one may measure around .14v. The display I repaired in the past measured 20 ohms.

#12 1 year ago

Well I figured out the keypad problem.

Turns out every time I pulled the J3 plug from the board and put it back in different keys on the keypad would stop working.
My first thought was a loose solder joint on the back of the board but it turned out to be that the far right red wire was working its way out of the IDC plug.
Shoved it back into place tightly and all is good.
Got the free play set to 65 now and had to turn the music back on as well. It had set itself to chimes tones only.

My displays are for the time being working perfectly. All are crystal clear, though I'm sure it may not last.
I was going to pull them real quick to test the diode but these damn displays do not just pull out of the game. Looks like they are screwed to the bottom of the head or something. Oh, well I will mess with them later as I did not have time.
Thanks for the help guys.

#13 1 year ago

Consider changing the IDC connector for the J3 and display connectors to the 0.100" molex type or new IDC connector if you prefer them, especially if either issue pops up again. Display issue starting to sound like connector issue just like your switch issues.

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