(Topic ID: 124489)

Strange boot on Creature

By Lethalfrag

9 years ago


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Topic Stats

  • 17 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 years ago by Mrjamma
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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IMG_0994.JPG
#1 9 years ago

Hello!

I've been struggling with my creature for about two weeks now and I am totally stumped. Since I have got the machine it has booted rather slow and now doesn't want to boot at all. If it does get running it runs and plays perfectly. I swapped out the power driver board for a board I knew worked, test point voltage remained about the same.

TP1 (12vu) = 14v
TP2 (5v) = 4.9-5v
TP3 (12vr) = 11.8v
TP4 (zc) = .4v
TP6 (50v) = 70v
TP7 (20v) = 20.6v
TP8 (18v) = 14.2-17

These were almost exactly the same between two boards, fuse F113 has blown twice in about 20 boot ups causing the 5v to not work at all, after replacing that it booted, but still slowly.

After this I swapped the CPU board with a brand new ROM and it got even weirder. On the old board it just power cycles with the top and bottom LED being lit on the CPU. With the new board the top and bottom LED light and the flashers on the machine go crazy, I think I even heard a solenoid fire. There is no power cycle or indication it wants to boot at all. After putting the old board back in it just power cycles over and over with no sign of booting.

Here are some pictures of the boards:

Power Driver -

IMG_0994.JPGIMG_0994.JPG

CPU -

IMG_0995.JPGIMG_0995.JPG

The Rest -

IMG_0996.JPGIMG_0996.JPG

Thanks for any help you can offer!

#2 9 years ago

Just some things I would check

1 - make sure rom is in tight
2 - Asic chip in Tight
3- Power Board LM323K or AK (makes the 5v)
4 - All Ribbon Cables

#3 9 years ago
Quoted from TheCnyPinGuy:

Just some things I would check
1 - make sure rom is in tight
2 - Asic chip in Tight
3- Power Board LM323K or AK (makes the 5v)
4 - All Ribbon Cables

Made sure everything was re-seated including the ribbon cables, the 5v on the power board is reading normally and the components are functioning. Swapped the CPU board again, the flashers still go crazy when I turn it on with the new board. Old board just power cycles.

#4 9 years ago

I went through and made sure all pin connectors were in the right spot and swapped boards again. When it boots up the GI and flashers pulse every few seconds and it makes clicking noises. Legit scared to turn it on. I'm at a total loss because I have tried 2 different power driver boards and two CPU boards with 2 different roms. In addition to a combo of each.

#5 9 years ago

Where is your location?
Do you have a reimport machine?
Does the machine have any mods?

#6 9 years ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

Where is your location?
Do you have a reimport machine?
Does the machine have any mods?

I'm in Bellingham, WA, to my knowledge it is not a reimport machine (how would I check this?) and the machine has no mods.

#7 9 years ago

You can look at the s/n label on the back of the machine or on the inside of the lower cabinet on the right side above the power switch. If it says 220 volts 5 amps, then you have a reimport machine.

How long had the machine before it started acting up?

#8 9 years ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

You can look at the s/n label on the back of the machine or on the inside of the lower cabinet on the right side above the power switch. If it says 220 volts 5 amps, then you have a reimport machine.
How long had the machine before it started acting up?

It says 120v 8 amps on the back sticker. It was booting slow/cycling when I got it two weeks ago which led to all the things I have tried so far. Thanks a lot for your help!

#9 9 years ago

Good. You have a domestic machine then.
Were you able to test the machine before you purchased it?

#10 9 years ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

Good. You have a domestic machine then.
Were you able to test the machine before you purchased it?

I was not, I purchased it online. I was able to get it to boot when I first got it, though it was slow. I have put in two 5+ hour play sessions while it was booted and there was no issue while it was running. It won't boot now but when it did the machine ran great and there were no issues with the way the machine ran during uptime.

#11 9 years ago

With power off, reseat the two ribbon cables that plug into the top of the MPU (that is 6 connections). Unplug them 3/4 of the way and push them back in. Do that at each connection 3 times.

Don't worry about the small 4" ribbon cable between the MPU to the driver board as that one will not cause the machine not to boot.

#12 9 years ago

I'm off to bed. I'll check in the morning to see if you had a chance to do that and what your results were.

#13 9 years ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

With power off, reseat the two ribbon cables that plug into the top of the MPU (that is 6 connections). Unplug them 3/4 of the way and push them back in. Do that at each connection 3 times.
Don't worry about the small 4" ribbon cable between the MPU to the driver board as that one will not cause the machine not to boot.

I reseated the ribbon connectors 3x and with the rottendog board it was still going crazy. To double check I put back in the board it came with. Works perfectly! I was able to boot it first cycle multiple times, I will check again in the morning to make sure it is ok. If so I am marking this thread as solved, thanks again for your help and a point into the obvious direction. Thanks again for the help, two weeks of pulling out my hair for the obvious.

#14 9 years ago

I noticed the ROM at U6 on the CPU board the window is open. It should have a label or tape covering it. It may have been erased. Try a different ROM out swap out the CPU board from another game.

#15 9 years ago

Loose connections are not always easy to track down.

Just to make sure, you are not seeing a slam tilt where you would see diagonal lines across the DMD?
Some people confuse this with the machine rebooting.

Reading about you swapping back to the different driver board and it working ok makes me question your J101, J102, and J114 driver board connections as well as the J210 power connector to the MPU. This is the common thing I see on machines I work on. Either they are loose or have some burnt pins. The best thing to do is reseat one of these connectors at a time if it happens again, until you can track down which one keeps it from resetting often. I had to repin many J101, J102 on the driver and J210 (on the MPU) connectors.

Here are more possibilities as well of other causes of resets.
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Game_resets

#16 9 years ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

Loose connections are not always easy to track down.
Just to make sure, you are not seeing a slam tilt where you would see diagonal lines across the DMD?
Some people confuse this with the machine rebooting.
Reading about you swapping back to the different driver board and it working ok makes me question your J101, J102, and J114 driver board connections as well as the J210 power connector to the MPU. This is the common thing I see on machines I work on. Either they are loose or have some burnt pins. The best thing to do is reseat one of these connectors at a time if it happens again, until you can track down which one keeps it from resetting often. I had to repin many J101, J102 on the driver and J210 (on the MPU) connectors.
Here are more possibilities as well of other causes of resets.
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Game_resets

Can confirm that it was not a slam tilt and the machine is booting up right away now. Thank you for the help and the lesson in loose connections. Marking this thread as solved

#17 9 years ago

Check the +5volts where it jumps across from the power driver board to the CPU board.

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