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(Topic ID: 260151)

Strange Bally light issue


By finnflash

9 months ago



Topic Stats

  • 20 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 months ago by Quench
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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    PowerPlay_SolenoidChart_ExtraChime.gif
    PowerPlay_Solenoid_ExtraChime.gif
    PowerPlay_LDB_8k.jpg
    20200121_142325 (resized).jpg

    #1 9 months ago

    I have a Bobby Orr power play and 1 light on the playfield doesnt work. When I go into test mode all the lights work. Why would it work in test mode but not in the game?

    #2 9 months ago

    What do you mean by doesn't work? Doesn't light up in game play but lights in self test or visa versa? The more typical failure is the SCR is shorted and the light is hard on all the time.

    #3 9 months ago

    Correct, it does not light in game play but does in test mode.

    #4 9 months ago

    This usually happens when someone has wired the lamp to the wrong connector location on the lamp driver board.

    Give us more details about which lamp it is so we can help pinpoint the issue.

    #5 9 months ago

    Is the light associated with a switch, like some form of target? If so, does the switch work?

    #6 9 months ago

    It's the 8000 bonus light on the hockey stick.
    If this is the issue I have 1 light on my Bally kiss that wont light either.

    Quoted from Quench:

    This usually happens when someone has wired the lamp to the wrong connector location on the lamp driver board.
    Give us more details about which lamp it is so we can help pinpoint the issue.

    #7 9 months ago

    The schematic says it's a blue-red wire which should be at connector location J3 pin 12 at the lamp driver board. Note the connector pin numbers on the lamp driver board start with 1 at the bottom and count upwards. First check that that blue-red wire is in the correct position. If it is, please post a clear high resolution picture of your lamp driver board.

    #8 9 months ago

    Position 12 was empty. The blue and red wire was in position 15. I moved that wire to position 12 and now it doesnt light in test anymore either.

    20200121_142325 (resized).jpg
    #9 9 months ago
    Quoted from finnflash:

    I moved that wire to position 12 and now it doesnt light in test anymore either.

    Ok, now time to test the SCR that switches the lamp on.

    Grab a jumper wire and connect it to ground - use the TP2 "GND" test point at the bottom left of the lamp driver board.
    Find SCR Q50 (looks like a small transistor) on the board and touch the other end of the wire on the bottom right leg of the SCR. Does the 8k bonus lamp illuminate?

    If yes, then remove the jumper wire and attach one end to test point TP3 on the lamp driver board. Touch the other end of the wire on the top leg of SCR Q50. Does the 8k bonus lamp illuminate?

    PowerPlay_LDB_8k.jpg

    #10 9 months ago

    No, it did not illuminate.

    #11 9 months ago
    Quoted from finnflash:

    No, it did not illuminate.

    With both tests?

    Strip about half an inch from one end of your jumper wire. Insert it as far as you can into the lamp driver board J3 pin 12 connector where the blue-red wire is so it touches the pin inside the connector. Connect the other end of the wire to the TP2 GND test point. Does the lamp illuminate?

    #12 9 months ago

    Nothing lights it. I put the wire back in position 15 so it will light in test mode.

    #13 9 months ago
    Quoted from finnflash:

    Nothing lights it. I put the wire back in position 15 so it will light in test mode.

    What's the color of the wire connected to the 8k bonus lamp socket? Can you post a picture?

    Pull that wire out of the J3 connector and touch the metal crimp end on the aluminum shielding in the back box (which is ground). If the lamp doesn't come on you probably have a wiring issue to the lamp socket, or the lamp socket/lamp is bad.

    Also where the 8k lamp is, temporarily attach a jumper wire on the blue-red wire connected to the end of that lamp socket, and the other end of the jumper wire to the colored wire lug on the 2X lamp socket - start a game and get the 2X lamp lit. Does the 8k bonus lamp illuminate?

    #14 9 months ago
    Quoted from Quench:

    What's the color of the wire connected to the 8k bonus lamp socket? Can you post a picture?
    Pull that wire out of the J3 connector and touch the metal crimp end on the aluminum shielding in the back box (which is ground). If the lamp doesn't come on you probably have a wiring issue to the lamp socket, or the lamp socket/lamp is bad.
    Also where the 8k lamp is, temporarily attach a jumper wire on the blue-red wire connected to the end of that lamp socket, and the other end of the jumper wire to the colored wire lug on the 2X lamp socket - start a game and get the 2X lamp lit. Does the 8k bonus lamp illuminate?

    Ok, finally had time to try this.
    The wire is blue and red at the socket, so I pulled the wire and touched it to the shielding and it lit!
    Then I did the jumper test to the 3x, when 3x lit 8k lit.
    Not sure what is stopping it from working in the game?

    #15 9 months ago

    Maybe a cold solder joint on J3?

    #16 9 months ago
    Quoted from RocketFromTombs:

    Maybe a cold solder joint on J3?

    Yes, check this out. Pull the lamp driver board out of the game and check the soldering on the back of the board where pin 12 of J3 is. You're looking for either a cracked solder joint (check other pins while you're there), or potentially a burnt trace from the Q50 SCR to that pin.

    Feel free to post some clear pictures of the back of the lamp driver board around J3 and Q50.

    #17 9 months ago

    Would you guys also be able to help me with a coil that locks on when I turn on the power. I think it's just a short in the transistor, but not sure which one it is.
    Its solenoid 8 in the self test, the last chime.

    I'm going to move on to this for now, because I can live without that 1 light.

    #18 9 months ago

    The lamp issue is an easy fix - there's no need to live with it

    Solenoid 8 is for the last (extra) chime. It's driven by driver transistor Q7 on the solenoid driver board.

    PowerPlay_SolenoidChart_ExtraChime.gif
    PowerPlay_Solenoid_ExtraChime.gif

    #19 9 months ago

    Thank you, if Q7 is shorted do I just need to replace it?

    #20 9 months ago
    Quoted from finnflash:

    if Q7 is shorted do I just need to replace it?

    Yes if Q7 is shorted, it needs to be replaced. You can test it with a multi-meter if you have one before removing anything.

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