Who recommended THAT? Not sure how to neutralize it once it’s in there.
Flour, goo gone (that *smells* like oranges) and patience are the best method I’ve found.
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Who recommended THAT? Not sure how to neutralize it once it’s in there.
Flour, goo gone (that *smells* like oranges) and patience are the best method I’ve found.
Different era playfields can handle different levels of chemicals. Your firepower likely had a stronger type of clear layer on it than your Pinbot. Different era. Different EPA regulations. Think about all those peeling clearcoats on late 80s-early 90s GM cars. Crappy chemicals.
Alcohol will dissolve most earlier clearcoats. That’s why I don’t use it. Goo gone and flour may take longer (depending on how the adhesive has cured) but it will, eventually, get the job done. I find it best to start with the weakest method of adhesive renewal to protect the playfield below.
System 11 games have notoriously weak clearcoats. If you pull off that Mylar I either suggest keeping it well protected (waxed) for the life of the game or clearcoat it to protect it.
If the playfield really is damaged I think you’re in luck, I believe there’s a Pinbot hardtop coming soon if you’re serious about that option.
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