(Topic ID: 232658)

Stop the Orange 909!


By Aniraf

6 months ago



Topic Stats

  • 22 posts
  • 14 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 months ago by Aniraf
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 6 months ago

I tried using this Orange 909 stuff that was recommended to remove Mylar glue and it just keeps going! It is now into the paint, and wood . The playfield has started planking and the paint has started dissolving!

It looked amazing after the Mylar was off . Now it is looking shitty . I wiped it with naphtha to try and get the Orange 909 off, but idk if that is enough.

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#2 6 months ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

It looked amazing after the Mylar was off . Now it is looking shitty .

Uff sorry to hear, but this is a common issue with removing mylar on old games. Comes up easy, you're feeling well, but then all the trauma glue removal causes can screw you.

#3 6 months ago

Who recommended THAT? Not sure how to neutralize it once it’s in there.

Flour, goo gone (that *smells* like oranges) and patience are the best method I’ve found.

#4 6 months ago

better get a new buddy to listen too.

#5 6 months ago

Lots of posts recommended it. Here is just one I found with a quick google. (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/whats-the-best-way-to-remove-mylar-glue).

I used it on my firepower and it came out really well.

I have a feeling I am going to be f’ed with this one . I need them to come out with a PinBot hardtop now .

#6 6 months ago

Yikes, how long did you let it sit?

#7 6 months ago

Different era playfields can handle different levels of chemicals. Your firepower likely had a stronger type of clear layer on it than your Pinbot. Different era. Different EPA regulations. Think about all those peeling clearcoats on late 80s-early 90s GM cars. Crappy chemicals.

Alcohol will dissolve most earlier clearcoats. That’s why I don’t use it. Goo gone and flour may take longer (depending on how the adhesive has cured) but it will, eventually, get the job done. I find it best to start with the weakest method of adhesive renewal to protect the playfield below.

System 11 games have notoriously weak clearcoats. If you pull off that Mylar I either suggest keeping it well protected (waxed) for the life of the game or clearcoat it to protect it.

If the playfield really is damaged I think you’re in luck, I believe there’s a Pinbot hardtop coming soon if you’re serious about that option.

#8 6 months ago
Quoted from ForceFlow:

Yikes, how long did you let it sit?

5-10 minutes.

#9 6 months ago

This happened to me once. But i left it to sit for hours. No way it did that in 5 minutes.

#10 6 months ago
Quoted from newtoit:

This happened to me once. But i left it to sit for hours. No way it did that in 5 minutes.

I think you are right, the areas with the issues may have held onto some of the solvent longer. I think the glue mixed with that shit got stuck around some of the inserts and chewed away at the play field .

#11 6 months ago

That's all I've ever used but I've only used it on W/B Diamond coated playfields. I've tried most everything else and this is by far the best.

You never know what you're going to get with older playfields.

#12 6 months ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

I tried using this Orange 909 stuff that was recommended to remove Mylar glue and it just keeps going! It is now into the paint, and wood . The playfield has started planking and the paint has started dissolving!
It looked amazing after the Mylar was off . Now it is looking shitty . I wiped it with naphtha to try and get the Orange 909 off, but idk if that is enough. [quoted image]

Judging from the posted image the damage done is not much. What are the ingredients in the degreaser formula ?

#13 6 months ago

Not entirely sure on this, have you tried polishing that grey playfield area with Novus 3 then Novus 2, or a polish for cleaning plastic headlights?

When even buffing by hand a planking playfield use extreme caution. Polish will fill the cracks, small pieces of artwork can come off. If excess polish gets into the gaps in the playfield use a small plastic brush to scrub out the dried polish.

#14 6 months ago

Chances are the glue was holding together what is now planked. If I want it restored, I am going to need to do a playfield swap or hardtop. Here is the worst of the damage.

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#15 6 months ago

I lost some paint on my pinbot using the flour method. I bought a stickers and the. Put a playfield protector on. If I was doing another pinbot, I’d go with a hardtop

#16 6 months ago

Just to be clear, your playfield wood was already planked, like most System 11 games are to some degree. It's less noticeable under mylar, which is really the only protection those playfields had other than a thin lacquer which has broken apart by now. Just about any chemical you use on a playfield like that is going to make it worse.

I get it, 25+ year old bubbled up mylar can look ugly, but I think people need to lower their expectations when they decide to pull it and try to somehow "improve" the playfield. It's not like pulling mylar off a newer game with more modern finishes (DiamondPlate/clearcoat). With rare exception I just don't think it's worth the time/effort of pulling mylar on pre 90s pins, especially with all of the new playfield (or hardtop) options out there.

Sorry, just my $.02 from decades of experience and passing through a thread that had me curious

#17 6 months ago
Quoted from ReplayRyan:

Just to be clear, your playfield wood was already planked, like most System 11 games are to some degree. It's less noticeable under mylar, which is really the only protection those playfields had other than a thin lacquer which has broken apart by now. Just about any chemical you use on a playfield like that is going to make it worse.
I get it, 25+ year old bubbled up mylar can look ugly, but I think people need to lower their expectations when they decide to pull it and try to somehow "improve" the playfield. It's not like pulling mylar off a newer game with more modern finishes (DiamondPlate/clearcoat). With rare exception I just don't think it's worth the time/effort of pulling mylar on pre 90s pins, especially with all of the new playfield (or hardtop) options out there.
Sorry, just my $.02 from decades of experience and passing through a thread that had me curious

Makes sense. I didn’t expect a diamond finish, just less paint loss based on my Firepower experience. I bought a playfield protector which will hide most of the planking and make the playfield smooth, but I’ll have to wait for a new playfield or a hardtop to get it really nice.

For the record, I think the naphtha neutralized the Orange 909. The playfield feels clean now, just a bit rough from the planking.

#18 6 months ago

You could touch up the black paint loss areas. Follow @Vid1900s 'Playfield Restoration Guide'. He states which paint to use. Do not use a Sharpie.

'Cliffys Protectors' has a web page on what he restored his PinBot, that may also be of interest.

#19 6 months ago

Never peel system 11 mylar unless you know what you are doing. 909 isnt dor system 11

#20 6 months ago

I threw my hat in the ring for it so I'm sorry to see that damaged your PF. FWIW, I said it dissolves the glue in 60 seconds, not 5 minutes. You can clearly smell how strong it is coming out of the can and I wouldn't leave anything that strong on a wood PF for more than seconds. It will look a lot better with the PF protector on it.

#21 6 months ago
Quoted from MrArt2u:

Flour, goo gone (that *smells* like oranges) and patience are the best method I’ve found.

Patience is the most important part of any method.
I use 91% isopropyl and flour and a crapload of paper towels...and lots of patience.

...did I mention to have lots of patience?

#22 6 months ago
Quoted from wayout440:

Patience is the most important part of any method.
I use 91% isopropyl and flour and a crapload of paper towels...and lots of patience.
...did I mention to have lots of patience?

I’m going to try this next time.

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