Uff sorry to hear, but this is a common issue with removing mylar on old games. Comes up easy, you're feeling well, but then all the trauma glue removal causes can screw you.

Who recommended THAT? Not sure how to neutralize it once it’s in there.

Flour, goo gone (that *smells* like oranges) and patience are the best method I’ve found.

better get a new buddy to listen too.

Yikes, how long did you let it sit?

Different era playfields can handle different levels of chemicals. Your firepower likely had a stronger type of clear layer on it than your Pinbot. Different era. Different EPA regulations. Think about all those peeling clearcoats on late 80s-early 90s GM cars. Crappy chemicals.

Alcohol will dissolve most earlier clearcoats. That’s why I don’t use it. Goo gone and flour may take longer (depending on how the adhesive has cured) but it will, eventually, get the job done. I find it best to start with the weakest method of adhesive renewal to protect the playfield below.

System 11 games have notoriously weak clearcoats. If you pull off that Mylar I either suggest keeping it well protected (waxed) for the life of the game or clearcoat it to protect it.

If the playfield really is damaged I think you’re in luck, I believe there’s a Pinbot hardtop coming soon if you’re serious about that option.

This happened to me once. But i left it to sit for hours. No way it did that in 5 minutes.

That's all I've ever used but I've only used it on W/B Diamond coated playfields. I've tried most everything else and this is by far the best.

You never know what you're going to get with older playfields.

Judging from the posted image the damage done is not much. What are the ingredients in the degreaser formula ?

Not entirely sure on this, have you tried polishing that grey playfield area with Novus 3 then Novus 2, or a polish for cleaning plastic headlights?

When even buffing by hand a planking playfield use extreme caution. Polish will fill the cracks, small pieces of artwork can come off. If excess polish gets into the gaps in the playfield use a small plastic brush to scrub out the dried polish.

I lost some paint on my pinbot using the flour method. I bought a stickers and the. Put a playfield protector on. If I was doing another pinbot, I’d go with a hardtop

Just to be clear, your playfield wood was already planked, like most System 11 games are to some degree. It's less noticeable under mylar, which is really the only protection those playfields had other than a thin lacquer which has broken apart by now. Just about any chemical you use on a playfield like that is going to make it worse.

I get it, 25+ year old bubbled up mylar can look ugly, but I think people need to lower their expectations when they decide to pull it and try to somehow "improve" the playfield. It's not like pulling mylar off a newer game with more modern finishes (DiamondPlate/clearcoat). With rare exception I just don't think it's worth the time/effort of pulling mylar on pre 90s pins, especially with all of the new playfield (or hardtop) options out there.

Sorry, just my $.02 from decades of experience and passing through a thread that had me curious

You could touch up the black paint loss areas. Follow @Vid1900s 'Playfield Restoration Guide'. He states which paint to use. Do not use a Sharpie.

'Cliffys Protectors' has a web page on what he restored his PinBot, that may also be of interest.

Never peel system 11 mylar unless you know what you are doing. 909 isnt dor system 11

I threw my hat in the ring for it so I'm sorry to see that damaged your PF. FWIW, I said it dissolves the glue in 60 seconds, not 5 minutes. You can clearly smell how strong it is coming out of the can and I wouldn't leave anything that strong on a wood PF for more than seconds. It will look a lot better with the PF protector on it.

Patience is the most important part of any method.
I use 91% isopropyl and flour and a crapload of paper towels...and lots of patience.

...did I mention to have lots of patience?