having some technical difficulties with one game.
This is the 3rd screen I am trying on this game, mind you, the first 2 attempts I was using a different firmware (version 3.75 I believe if I recall properly). I presumed at the time this was the latest as I had downloaded directly from pin2dmd not long ago, to my surprise, when I did the same recently the version is now 4.4

The 3rd screen as per the video below is running 4.4 and it is doing the same as the other 2 screens previously tested. Of course, each time, the files were produced by the creator for its respective UID. The results are the same nonetheless.

Another detail for the enquiring minds, the screen will work perfectly in other games including other files requiring specific UIDs (normally found in paid files), so it is not the screen nor the files.

Wondering if anybody has any clues as to why this could be happening?
It was suggested to me that it could be an issue with the ram in the game or an issue with the DMD board, however, there are no issues when the regular DMD is connected - which apparently is not a good enough indication to discard an issue with either of those -

Any ideas?

Thanks!

https://vimeo.com/750096255

Yes
No
WPC-S

So I suspect either the cpu or dmd board is toast here?

If you have another machne with the same DMD board, swap them out. Eventho the DMD board might produce a good enough signal for the original DMD, it might not be suitable for the pin2dmd. this was the exact issue on anther users machine.
a replacement that absolutely works is the DMDlux by pinsound.
the one from xpin pinball I have personally had trouble with before.

Will try, thanks!

Yes

Were can i buy a pin2dmd that will work with spooky

Sent you a PM. I would have to do a bit of research to make sure this would work...

Which spooky? AMH or RZ? There's a solution for AMH thanks to herg (check AMH thread). Not sure if something similar exists for RZ.

After doing a bit more digging, this could be a little more complicated.

Lucky1 might have some suggestions that could help. I think he created a version of the PIN2DMD firmware that would work with the Spooky games.

If you are on version 3.0 or later of the firmware you are good to go w/ AMH (but you need to install an update on AMH itself): http://ledocd.com/amh_color/

Guess I'll wait with my order from Pcbway ....

Untitled (resized).png

Zigzagzag

Yikes! That's crazy high.
Have you tried to get one made with the Geehy APM32F407VGT6 chip instead? I think you had brought it up in an earlier post and Lucky tested it I believe. I was wanting to try it out myself but haven't yet.

Maybe I asked before ... memory is hazy

But yeah, I have asked PCBWAY for updated estimate with the chip you mention.
Let's see how it goes !

Nothing that works the same as AMH, but RZ comes with color already. RZ's color format would be relatively easy to support in PIN2DMD, compared to AMH where I did some crazy palette swapping to get more colors. I don't think there's much motivation, though.

So this seems more reasonable :

APM32F407VGT6 5pcs $8.223/pcs, STM32F417VGT6 5pcs $43.958/pcs

lucky1 , do you think the APM32F407VGT6 will work ?

Pcbway is overcharginng for all smt chips. If you are a returning client you shoule be paying $15-20 for a vgt6

If the APM32F407VGT6 will work it is even cheaper, waiting for lucky1 to chime in here.

Question for you lucky1…. I bought a Baywatch with a Pin2dmd recently installed. It seems that there are a few scenes that are not colored and still mono blue. Is it possible I have a incorrect file downloaded? I’m not too familiar with Pin2dmd so any help is appreciated

nope. The scene is probably not colorized. Common with incomplete files.
Lucky 1 will not know if you have the latest 'colour files'. Simply reach out to the artist that made the file and ask for a newer version of the file - if it exists - if it does not then ... nothing you can do.

IF the files are free, just download them again from Virtual Pin universe and try it in case there is a newer version with THAT scene now colorized.

Common for free files or abandoned files to not be fully colorized.

Thanks for explaining. I appreciate it

I have tried contacting the author of the color files for WWF Royal rumble (cb3) on vpuniverse with no luck.
There is a thread that says these projects are abandoned.
If so, there must be someone who has these files and perhaps would be willing to share ?
In case the author shows up again a donation will of course be made.

I would contact the Pinsider from this site. He helped me with Twilight Zone https://www.cdnpin2dmd.ca/

Thanks for the tip !

That would be me. If you send the donation to CB3 and then send me a copy of the receipt, I can send you his files. I will not provide them otherwise as I agreed to this with him long ago. You can send me a PM and I can provide you with his PayPal address and my email address. I only have the colour files, not the project files. I can't guarantee how complete they are either. There is one thing to be aware of. If I'm not mistaken, the settings menu for WWFRR was not colourized so you have to pop out the memory card if you need to make adjustments. Otherwise the screen is all black and you can't see anything.

Had an interesting phenomenon yesterday.
I’ve had this Pin2DMD in my Junk Yard since I bought the game a few months ago - zero issues.
Moved it over to its final place - Cirqus Voltaire. Everything was fine.
I’ve been done some work to the game so playfield has been up and down and the ribbon cable dangles really bad behind the display.
Started the game and didn’t notice anything at first, then noticed a faint dark green line where the line in the picture is.
Then it turned over to this really bright green!
Turned the game off, checked the ribbon cable which seemed fine and turned it on again and once again had a faint dark green line and had it for the whole evening.
Started it today and no line any more.

Strange…
Scared me that I’ve somehow screwed up the pin2dmd without even touching it.
46772C85-ACBC-4980-B0F4-992A927A2346 (resized).jpeg

Line is back again, but faint…
Going to work a little with the ribbon cable see if that helps anything at all…

You could try to swap the panels and see if the line follows the panel.
If it does, you can buy a new one from AliExpress.
I have been using these : https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33025337414.html

Line appears with the ribbon cable unplugged…
Damnit. It’s screwed…

Try Zigzagzag’s advice of swapping the two LED panels on the controller board - it’s in two pieces. If the line follows, it’s a bad panel and would be a relatively painless fix.

That will rule out a problem with the controller board.

Will try it after the weekend!
Also just checking.
I’m taking 12V from J138 into the board to the blue connector shown in the picture.
This is how it was connected and working fine on my Junk Yard when I bought it.
But I can’t help to notice that the white 4-wire connector says “Power”.
Has mine been connected wrong since the beginning? I connected it in the same fashion on my CV as it was on JY except for that in JY it took 12v power from J139 but that has a connector already on CV so I took from J138 instead (checked voltage etc before connecting).
D4D83DAE-308F-4D55-AA77-AA4475620FBB (resized).png

No, you're fine. You can use either connector. For my displays, I always include a power harness that uses the white connector. Makes it easier to plug it in or unplug it. Both connectors go through the voltage step down circuit so no worries there either. The screw terminals are probably most useful for guys that are wiring up vpins.

If you figure out that you simply have a bad LED panel and the other one is okay, what you need to keep in mind is that these panels are manufactured in batches. There is a chance that if you get a single panel as a replacement, the colours that it produces may not match the good panel you already have. Your best bet is just to order a pair as replacements and you won't have any issues. In most cases the difference will be subtle and very difficult to notice but in some cases, it can be much more obvious. I've ordered hundreds of these panels so I'm speaking from a position of experience.

I hd that recently with a brand new panel. Although It might also be the dmd driver.

Ok I looked around today.
When a great line appeared I tried tapping on the DMD and line went away.
It’s something loose.
Tried to remove the LED screens to move them around but couldn’t get one of them loose from the board. Didn’t dare to pull too hard…
Now I know it’s a bad contact, probably within the led board.

One panel is connected to the board the ohter is held by screws, and it receives data by the serial cable.
Pull up, you wont hurt anything.

As for something being lose, nothing can be, you either have a faulty panel or the connector on the board needs to be reflowed.

Both were held on by screws on mine but most likely it was held on by a connector as well, as you say.
There must be something with intermittent connection.
Otherwise it would solve itself by just tapping on the LED board with my finger and then gradually return as you play (shakes around).
Either way I fiddled around with it without doing really anything but I removed and reinserted the ribbon cable etc on the backside.
Time will tell if that makes it OK (doubt it).
1734D102-06BB-46F8-8907-BEE132F0FC91 (resized).jpeg

Once you remove the screws on the backside the only thing holding the one panel on is the connector I have circled below. Yes, the power cables and flat ribbon cable will also need to be disconnected but that's it. All you have to do is pull straight up on the one panel to remove it from the connector. There is no snap or ramp or anything holding it in place. It will come apart easily.

display (resized).jpg

If I'm building the NUCLEO-F4 version of these with 128x32 panel for some WPC95 like World Cup Soccer, do I need the DC-DC converter PCB also? Or what's the deal with that PCB? Is the normal shield enough?

Hello. I have an older PIN2DMD using the STM32F and Unclesash's ver 2.0b board. I just had to replace my LED boards and it looks like the sequencing mode is different than my old ones. Unclesash's board does not have an option or menu button. Is there another way I can adjust the sequencing mode? I tried hooking up my own buttons to the pins on the STM32 using the schematic as a guide, but pressing the buttons only resets the board. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks for the reply Lucky. I may try to go back and add the buttons again now that I know how they operate. I did look into replacing the shield but the versions compatible with my STM32 seem to be sold out pretty much everywhere and I wasn't looking to dump anymore money into this if I didn't have to. I did however come up with another fix. I was able to swap the G0,G1 and B0, B1 pins on the HUB75 connectors by creating a converter board between the panels and the STM32. Seems to be working fine with no adverse effects so far!

board (resized).PNG

6 months in and I just noticed this post! I will try this….

Just completed Hurricane for Pin2DMD. Details here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hurricane-club-comet-and-cyclone-owners-are-also-welcome/page/7#post-7418626

Hi guys
Pin2dmdXL on my Baywstch issue - need some help.
Earlier today it started freezing the image during play . After turning off / on it was then only displaying the Pinsound logo. It now is completely blank / dead
I have reseated all connectors .
Power to the display - I have 4.8v and 19v
Power to the controller board - 4.8v
I know the 5v is a bit low but it’s been working with that for years.

No LED lit on the board . I can’t recall if there should be or not .

Any ideas ?? Happy to take photos if that helps

Anyone ?

There seem to be different boards made (https://pin2dmd.com/hardware/) - maybe you could take a picture of yours?
I guess that would make it easier to help with troubleshooting.

I had a similar thing happen on mine. I thought it was power issue but it turned out to be a corrupted SD card. Try taking the mini SD out and running the game. If it plays without freezing, then maybe you can try different SD card and see if that works.
Hope it helps.