Addams Family, The
Bally, 1992
Batman
Data East, 1991
Batman Forever
Sega, 1995
Baywatch
Sega, 1995
Checkpoint
Data East, 1991
Hook
Data East, 1992
Lethal Weapon 3
Data East, 1992
Lord of the Rings
Stern, 2003Quoted from HighVoltage:That's good to know, thanks. Will see if I can get a quote on 5 then.
Just heard back: price per unit goes up a lot for only 5. 75% of the cost for only half as many: doesn't really make sense.
I'm checking how much it will cost for another 10. The first order was basically a proof of concept and to see what costs would be like and how long it would take to get the parts. If it's cheaper per board to order more, that would be a good thing.
I have several of these on location and they have been rock solid. Very happy I bought them, and they were fun to assemble.
While I wait for a slug of free time to colorize games myself, is there an easy way to set the palette to B/W orange? I don’t seem to see an option in the default palettes, which seems odd.
BTW I would be down to order 2 if there’s a group buy happening...
Quoted from Brijam:... is there an easy way to set the palette to B/W orange? I don’t seem to see an option in the default palettes, which seems odd.
You can edit the colors of a palette with my pin2dmd.exe tool and save the pin2dmd.pal generated on the SD-card
Quoted from Brijam:I have several of these on location and they have been rock solid. Very happy I bought them, and they were fun to assemble.
While I wait for a slug of free time to colorize games myself, is there an easy way to set the palette to B/W orange? I don’t seem to see an option in the default palettes, which seems odd.
BTW I would be down to order 2 if there’s a group buy happening...
I could never get my PIN2DMD "Plasma Orange" dialed in quite right when I had one on a vpin. Check this thread for a recommended value by lucky1.
Quoted from lucky1:i uploaded a plasma like 4 color setting here https://github.com/lucky01/PIN2DMD/raw/master/tools/latest/pin2dmd.pal
Ok cool. So do I just drop that on an SD card and power it up? And then I can remove the SD card?
Hmm, i seem to remember that the display itself had some default palettes you could choose from, so that you could easily set it to a red palette, a green palette and so on via the buttons on the back. Perhaps i dont remember correctly? Unfortunately don't have a display any more to test.
But if that IS the case, isn't there an orange palette that resemples an ordinary plasma display? And if not perhaps it could be added to future firmware versions?
There is builtin orange palette but it is based on the RGB values of orange. A plasma is more brownish.
Even if I would add another preset palette there would be no guarantee that it looks like a plasma because there are
still some slight differences between the RGB panels depending on the LED driver chipset used by the manufacturer.
Consider the palette I uploaded only as a starting point for your own settings.
With a lot of tweaking, I got a good set of RGB I used to emulate the plasma. Difficult because some of the dimmer values don't translate to the LED board, sadly. (At least with the FW, controller board, and panels I use.)
Quoted from lucky1:There is builtin orange palette but it is based on the RGB values of orange. A plasma is more brownish.
Even if I would add another preset palette there would be no guarantee that it looks like a plasma because there are
still some slight differences between the RGB panels depending on the LED driver chipset used by the manufacturer.
Consider the palette I uploaded only as a starting point for your own settings.
Is that more recent firmware? Mine are maybe a year or more old.
For the Canadians following this thread, I've been able to put in a couple orders for the EVO boards and LED panels. If you are interested in one, send me a PM. I will have another bunch ready around mid-November and will probably do another order based on demand. It's about a 30 day turnaround for me.
$250 CDN plus shipping depending on where you are.
Huge thanks to Lucky1 for his continued development on this project and all the help he has provided me with!
Quoted from kciaccio:I just installed one of these in my Data Eats Hook and I love it!
Glad you got the display installed and working. It looks great! Thanks for posting.
I had ro adjust the position of the pinheader for the ribbon cable a little to better fit into the cutout of the woodplate in my
DataEast Checkpoint. Now everything fits prefectly . Latest Gerber files can be found here
Instructions how to order are here
IMG_1803 (resized).JPGIMG_1804 (resized).JPGIMG_1806 (resized).JPGQuoted from lucky1:I had ro adjust the position of the pinheader for the ribbon cable a little to better fit into the cutout of the woodplate in my
DataEast Checkpoint.
Are you running my colorization for that game? :p
Quoted from lucky1:I had ro adjust the position of the pinheader for the ribbon cable a little to better fit into the cutout of the woodplate in my
DataEast Checkpoint. ....
Thanks Lucky1. That looks great! With the EVO display, now that the board and controller are together, this will be an easy replacement for Checkpoint and TMNT owners.
If anyone needs this display, I have a few extras. send me a PM.
Hey all-
Just installed my second Pin2DMD and am really impressed
I am running one in a Monster Bash which has a great custom colorized file. I have noticed that the colors sometimes don’t take effect immediately, and they right themselves after a moment. Is there anything I can do about this, like getting a faster SD card? I am powering the board directly from 12V. Would 5v give more reliable performance? Thanks so much!
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Hey all-
Just installed my second Pin2DMD and am really impressed
I am running one in a Monster Bash which has a great custom colorized file. I have noticed that the colors sometimes don’t take effect immediately, and they right themselves after a moment. Is there anything I can do about this, like getting a faster SD card? I am powering the board directly from 12V. Would 5v give more reliable performance? Thanks so much!
I don´t think that this issue is performance related. It is more likely that the trigger for the scene is coming too late. Get in contact with the author to maybe let him fix this issue in his project file. Using 12V though a DC-DC converter (onboard on the EVOs) is the recommended way to power the display. It has no impact on the performance at all to change the voltage.
Quoted from lucky1:I don´t think that this issue is performance related. It is more likely that the trigger for the scene is coming too late. Get in contact with the author to maybe let him fix this issue in his project file. Using 12V though a DC-DC converter (onboard on the EVOs) is the recommended way to power the display. It has no impact on the performance at all to change the voltage.
Thank you for confirming - I will talk to the author, I wanted to be sure I know where the problem lies first.
I think there is a good chance the "late colors" are editor related. I'm not 100% sure, but in my IJ all of the transitions between different screens aren't colorized. Only when the transition is done, the colors appear. This makes it look like the colors are "late" a lot of the time, and unfortunately kinda ruins the experience.
Don't get med wrong, i think NetzZwerg did an amazing job with the coloring! But i don't think it's any secret that that the current editor for WPC machines has its limitations. But again, i could easily be wrong about it being editor related.
I had a Pin2DMD in my TSPP, and that didn't have the same issues, but as i understand it, a different editor is used for those games?
Quoted from Phantasize:I think there is a good chance the "late colors" are editor related. I'm not 100% sure, but in my IJ all of the transitions between different screens aren't colorized. Only when the transition is done, the colors appear. This makes it look like the colors are "late" a lot of the time, and unfortunately kinda ruins the experience.
Don't get med wrong, i think NetzZwerg did an amazing job with the coloring! But i don't think it's any secret that that the current editor for WPC machines has its limitations. But again, i could easily be wrong about it being editor related.
I had a Pin2DMD in my TSPP, and that didn't have the same issues, but as i understand it, a different editor is used for those games?
The color job is great - but I do not have the "late colors" in my STTNG, so I do think it's fixable
Those transitions are the hardest thing to color and Netz is probably the best guy at coloring games. Sometimes that little 1 or 2 second delay isnt worth spending 20 or 30 hours working on.
Quoted from Malenko:Those transitions are the hardest thing to color and Netz is probably the best guy at coloring games. Sometimes that little 1 or 2 second delay isnt worth spending 20 or 30 hours working on.
Going from a ColorDMD to the Pin2DMD, it's actually quite distracting. I may just put it back after all. The STTNG Pin2DMD colorization job is so well done it gave me an unrealistic sense of what to expect, and since I paid for it, I guess I was expecting no such issues
That's your call. I know he spend around 600 hours on that game , and he said there were known issues with color flickering in transitions and that a few monkey animations may be uncolored in the Streets Of Cairo mode.
Post in the thread over at VPU and let him know what isnt working, he can always update it.
When you say you paid for it, what do you mean? the files for the colorization for the real pin? If so then I do understand you wanting it to be perfect. That's one of the reasons I just throw everything up for download for free, lowering expectations :p
Quoted from Malenko:That's your call. I know he spend around 600 hours on that game , and he said there were known issues with color flickering in transitions and that a few monkey animations may be uncolored in the Streets Of Cairo mode.
Post in the thread over at VPU and let him know what isnt working, he can always update it.
When you say you paid for it, what do you mean? the files for the colorization for the real pin? If so then I do understand you wanting it to be perfect. That's one of the reasons I just throw everything up for download for free, lowering expectations :p
Streets of Cairo mode? I unfortunately don't have this in an IJTPA, it's in Monster Bash. Still a great color job, but not nearly as much content as IJ!
Yes, I sent him a 'donation' for the files given that it's a real pin. Everybody does it differently - I don't begrudge him for asking for a donation, but I did expect that this means it would be relatively flawless. Anyway thanks for the tip, I will send him a message on VPUniverse.
oh, lol, dunno why I had Indy on the brain. He did have the same note in the MonsterBash thread about some flickering, missing map markers, and credit dots being an issue. I hope you get it worked out!
Transitions are the worst thing, so many variables, and the palette limitation with color mask mode means you can't always gracefully blend the colours between two scenes, even if you can reliably trigger.
I was lucky with TNG because there aren't many transitions going on - there is one that fires for the spinner value increasing, and if you look closely, that isn't coloured - the fact is, it can fire while any other animation is running, so if i tried to colour it, it may end up clashing with some other color choices more, making it even more obvious! (Still a few little bugs with TNG which will be fixed before the end of 2019!)
For indi 500 I was even cheekier - I outright overwrite the transitions in most cases and just leave the previous animation replacing them instead. The few that are left I get away with by picking a default palette of yellow and making them look like "explosions" 
And if I'm being honest, I decided against colouring Champion Pub mainly because of the nightmareish transitions in that game.
Quoted from Malenko:oh, lol, dunno why I had Indy on the brain. He did have the same note in the MonsterBash thread about some flickering, missing map markers, and credit dots being an issue. I hope you get it worked out!
Copy that, thx!
Quoted from Malenko:oh, lol, dunno why I had Indy on the brain
Probably because i mentioned i had the same problem in my IJ And yes, it's a real pin, and yes i donated to get the files. But with that said, i was actually aware of the issues before i donated. I just think i hoped they wouldn't be as noticeable as they are. So i have been thinking about going back to monochrome on my IJ, as i find it (for me) less distracting. And then who knows if there will updates down the line.
But I really want to point out, that i think the coloring job on IJ is awesome!! And i understand that it takes an insane amount of hours to do with the tools available. So i have nothing but respect for the people doing these colorizations!
I absolutely love each and everyone contributing to this great hobby, so it is in no way intended as "bashing" or anything when i mention a specific coloring job or the editor.
Quoted from Phantasize:Probably because i mentioned i had the same problem in my IJ And yes, it's a real pin, and yes i donated to get the files. But with that said, i was actually aware of the issues before i donated. I just think i hoped they wouldn't be as noticeable as they are. So i have been thinking about going back to monochrome on my IJ, as i find it (for me) less distracting. And then who knows if there will updates down the line.
But I really want to point out, that i think the coloring job on IJ is awesome!! And i understand that it takes an insane amount of hours to do with the tools available. So i have nothing but respect for the people doing these colorizations!
I absolutely love each and everyone contributing to this great hobby, so it is in no way intended as "bashing" or anything when i mention a specific coloring job or the editor.
Well said. Fully agreed. It does give me a bit of an appreciation of how much work goes into the ColorDMDs, and how long that must take to get right
Quoted from Phantasize:I had a Pin2DMD in my TSPP, and that didn't have the same issues, but as i understand it, a different editor is used for those games?
TSPP is also a project done with the pin2dmd editor. In fact it was the first realized using this editor. Only Stern SAM and Spike system based games can be colorized using pinball browser.
The difference is technically based in how WPC machines create a DMD frame.
Speaking about transition effects. vbobrusev in TSPP e.g. blacked out the beer sliding transitions which means he simply colorized the content coming in with the beerglass all black making them invisible. That gives them no chance to disturb in any way. He told me that ColorDMD did it the same way.
So sometimes better looking means hiding the things that are not working. Coloring games is always a compromise.
Currently I have a problem with my ST32 based screen running PIN2DMD firmware. In total I have had 5 or 6 PIN2DMD screens, 4 of which made by PinballSP. Two versions with the big power supply on the back (2016 black edition), and two versions with the small power supply (DUALW-version from 2017). The 2016 versions have all worked inside Bally/Williams machines and the 2017 versions inside Capcoms. Recently I sold one of the Capcoms and I wanted to use the 2017 display in my Scared Stiff (WPC-95). Unfortunately, I can't get it to work.
When I switch on the pin and the display at the same time, no boot up logo appears and the screen stays black afterwards. A few bright dots might flash upon power cycle, but that's all. No DATA/ERR lights flashing. If I turn on the screen before the pin (or, switch on the pin with the signal cable detached), the PIN2DMD screen shows, indicating the fw version and BALLY/WILLIAMS. If I then connect the signal cable, it all works fine (DATA light flashes). So it seems the display doesn't boot when there is a DMD signal present (but only on WPC...).
Here's what I already tried:
1. Switch the 2017 displays between Capcom and Scared Stiff, the problem stays within the Scared Stiff machine (and the other display works fine in the Capcom)
2. Tried firmware versions from 2.36, 2.41, 2.68 and 3.05 (most recent), makes no difference
3. Tried to use the 2017 display in my Theatre of Magic (WPC-S), also does not work
4. Switch between external outlet (230V) and internal outlet (110V taken from J605)
5. Fiddle around with the Signal Enhancer settings
6. Added an extra ground lead from the braid of the pin to one of the GND connectors of the screen
7. Connected the pin to a grounded wall outlet
So far I can only conclude the 2017 versions do not work in WPC-S/WPC-95 machines, where the 2016 versions work ok.
Any ideas/suggestions what else I might try?
Quoted from mgpasman:Currently I have a problem with my ST32 based screen running PIN2DMD firmware. In total I have had 5 or 6 PIN2DMD screens, 4 of which made by PinballSP. Two versions with the big power supply on the back (2016 black edition), and two versions with the small power supply (DUALW-version from 2017). The 2016 versions have all worked inside Bally/Williams machines and the 2017 versions inside Capcoms. Recently I sold one of the Capcoms and I wanted to use the 2017 display in my Scared Stiff (WPC-95). Unfortunately, I can't get it to work.
When I switch on the pin and the display at the same time, no boot up logo appears and the screen stays black afterwards. A few bright dots might flash upon power cycle, but that's all. No DATA/ERR lights flashing. If I turn on the screen before the pin (or, switch on the pin with the signal cable detached), the PIN2DMD screen shows, indicating the fw version and BALLY/WILLIAMS. If I then connect the signal cable, it all works fine (DATA light flashes). So it seems the display doesn't boot when there is a DMD signal present (but only on WPC...).
Here's what I already tried:
1. Switch the 2017 displays between Capcom and Scared Stiff, the problem stays within the Scared Stiff machine (and the other display works fine in the Capcom)
2. Tried firmware versions from 2.36, 2.41, 2.68 and 3.05 (most recent), makes no difference
3. Tried to use the 2017 display in my Theatre of Magic (WPC-S), also does not work
4. Switch between external outlet (230V) and internal outlet (110V taken from J605)
5. Fiddle around with the Signal Enhancer settings
6. Added an extra ground lead from the braid of the pin to one of the GND connectors of the screen
7. Connected the pin to a grounded wall outlet
So far I can only conclude the 2017 versions do not work in WPC-S/WPC-95 machines, where the 2016 versions work ok.
Any ideas/suggestions what else I might try?
I must add that I´m already involved and came to the conclusion that this can´t be caused by the firmware because the bootscreen is not even showing which means the firmware is not started. It seems that this custom made board by pinballSP seems to be different at some point, because all the hardware designs I published on my github repo don´t show that problem. I assume that the board is stuck in the factory built in boot loader for whatever reason but I can´t tell for sure because I don´t have any of the DMDST32 boards for testing.
Quoted from lucky1:I must add that I´m already involved and came to the conclusion that this can´t be caused by the firmware because the bootscreen is not even showing which means the firmware is not started. It seems that this custom made board by pinballSP seems to be different at some point, because all the hardware designs I published on my github repo don´t show that problem. I assume that the board is stuck in the factory built in boot loader for whatever reason but I can´t tell for sure because I don´t have any of the DMDST32 boards for testing.
Thanks indeed for chiming in. The question remains what could make it stuck like that. Cause it only happens when the device is switched on when there is already signal on the DMD lead, and (apparently) only on my two WPC pins. My hope is that someone in this topic might have already ran into this issue and has a workaround .
Whatever happens, I will say that I am greatly appreciating lucky1's help here!
Quoted from mgpasman:Thanks indeed for chiming in. The question remains what could make it stuck like that. Cause it only happens when the device is switched on when there is already signal on the DMD lead, and (apparently) only on my two WPC pins. My hope is that someone in this topic might have already ran into this issue and has a workaround .
Whatever happens, I will say that I am greatly appreciating lucky1's help here!
And kudos to lucky1 for troubleshooting a pinballsp board. I’m not going to start any drama, but lucky1 is a better man than I for doing that.
Following lucky1's lead, I just tried to start the display together with the pin (so it stays black, no splash) to see if it would somehow have booted in DFU/upgrade mode. But, it does not get recognized by my laptop when I connect it using USB, nor is it read by DfuseDemo.exe.
I received the pinballSP DMSST32 display from mgpasman and after a little testing I could solve the problem by removing a solder bridge and adding missing components on the pinballSP board. The components cost a few cents, I don´t know why he did not solder them onto his board. These components have been added to the official pin2dmd schematics long before 2017. Here are some pictures
image0 (resized).jpegimage1 (resized).jpeg
Quoted from BENETNATH:Lucky1 debugging pinballsp boards.. You are really a good guy, you know..
I agree, this is amazing 
russdx was right, 2 capacitors were added 
Quoted from BENETNATH:Lucky1 debugging pinballsp boards.. You are really a good guy, you know..
Don’t let the word get out, he will be fixing a LOT of boards...
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Don’t let the word get out, he will be fixing a LOT of boards...
Definitely not. This is and will be the only board I fixed myself. Now that the info is there, everybody can fix it himself or let it be fixed by someone else. Thinking a little longer about it the reason why pinballSP did not solder the missing parts is most likely because he sold most of the boards with a hacked very early version of my firmware which did not support this chip (see picture attached) but had sync glitches instead. I will see if I can find a workaround in my firmware to make it work without the missing components but soldering the missing parts is the best way to keep compatibility.
f5fdb2b3e9125c88968ba04a38728e3eo (resized).jpg
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