(Topic ID: 148749)

STLE help - RGB inserts


By fattdirk

4 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 39 posts
  • 10 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by fattdirk
  • Topic is favorited by 10 Pinsiders

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#1 4 years ago

So the klingon battle insert is missing red on my STLE. I've tracked the problem down to a bad RGB led on the board. Does anyone know where I can acquire this part? part # CLV6A-FKB-CK1P1G1BB7R3R3 They appear to be an obsolete component. Is this something I can get directly from Stern?

#2 4 years ago

I would contact stern directly for this

#3 4 years ago

$0.42 at Mouser

The obsolete part was replaced by this one:

http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=6jQbvwb2v93SrlJnkMtIwQ%3d%3d

This is a SMD so unless you have very specialized soldering equipment it will be very difficult to replace

#4 4 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

$0.42 at Mouser
The obsolete part was replaced by this one:
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=6jQbvwb2v93SrlJnkMtIwQ%3d%3d
This is a SMD so unless you have very specialized soldering equipment it will be very difficult to replace

Since the mcd is lower for this part won't it be visibly dimmer than the other inserts?

#5 4 years ago

Sorry, I just don't see any difference in the mcd, these 2 parts have virtually identical data sheets.

Obsolete: http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/90/CLV6AFKB-474183.pdf

Replacement: http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/90/cree_SLV6A-FKBCLD-CT1320001-553320.pdf

#6 4 years ago

Sterns crappy led boards. I have had two fail in a babied LE.

#7 4 years ago

I wonder if reflowing the red anode and cathode on pins 3 and 4 will fix it...

#8 4 years ago

840mcd Red, 1680mcd Green, 420mcd Blue
CLV6A-FKB-CK1P1G1BB7R3R3

560 mcd, 1220 mcd, 280 mcd

SLV6A-FKB-CK1P1G1BB7R3R3

Maybe the digikey site is wrong.

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/CLV6A-FKB-CK1P1G1BB7R3R3/CLV6A-FKB-CK1P1G1BB7R3R3CT-ND/2166014?WT.srch=1

Quoted from msj2222:

Sterns crappy led boards. I have had two fail in a babied LE.

This game has less than 1k plays on it.

Quoted from Pin_Guy:

I wonder if reflowing the red anode and cathode on pins 3 and 4 will fix it...

I actually swapped the LED with another one on the same board and the problem followed. The LED itself is bad.

#9 4 years ago

Oh I see, I would trust the manufacturers spec sheet and assume digikey has it wrong on their website. Obviously if you can swap the component you can easily replace it, what are you using for mounting the SMDs?

#10 4 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

Oh I see, I would trust the manufacturers spec sheet and assume digikey has it wrong on their website. Obviously if you can swap the component you can easily replace it, what are you using for mounting the SMDs?

Yeah I agree. I was just pissed I couldn't match up the specs. I ordered 10 of them so I'll report back. I'm using an Ayoue hot air rework station to mount the chips. Takes like 2 seconds.

#11 4 years ago

Cool, I'm sure everything will work out fine. I've been looking a hot air system but so far haven't had the need for one. I know its only a matter of time though.

#12 4 years ago

Have you tried calling Stern? I have read where others have had luck with Stern covering them after the warranty. I had no luck, but its worth a phone call.

#13 4 years ago

Why not just buy the LED board for the insert? Cost $12 from a distributor. Easy breezy

#14 4 years ago
Quoted from msj2222:

Have you tried calling Stern? I have read where others have had luck with Stern covering them after the warranty. I had no luck, but its worth a phone call.

No I haven't. I'm going to call them today. I'm the second owner so I wasn't really holding out hope on that situation.

Quoted from ff6735:

Why not just buy the LED board for the insert? Cost $12 from a distributor. Easy breezy

Are you sure it's only $12? This is the board right below the mode inserts. It isn't just a single insert. I guess it wouldn't hurt to call Trent today and ask him.

The problem with just getting a new LED board is the issue will probably be the same with a new one. I'm really curious if replacing the LED will solve the issue. I'm getting 10 of them shipped for 8 bucks. Also - it literally takes me 2 minutes to solder a new LED to the board.

#15 4 years ago

I'll tell you from personal experience...its not $12.-, that's for sure. Maybe shipping is

#16 4 years ago

For $12 you can fix 30 boards! Why pay $12 for something you can get for $0.39?

#17 4 years ago

Called Stern and talked to Chas. He said I need to contact my distributor and that he's never heard of one of these failing? Guess I'm just unlucky. I'm going to just replace the LED and then if it isn't equal brightness then contact Trent.

#18 4 years ago
Quoted from fattdirk:

Called Stern and talked to Chas. He said I need to contact my distributor and that he's never heard of one of these failing? Guess I'm just unlucky. I'm going to just replace the LED and then if it isn't equal brightness then contact Trent.

He is full of shit. I talked to him several times about my boards failing and he refused to replace them, Geo(the dist.) talked to him and he refused to replace them. We had to order 2 new boards from him to replace the 2 bad boards in mine. So again, he is full of shit.

Also, not isolated https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/led-issue-in-stle

#19 4 years ago

When I said I'm unlucky I was being sarcastic. I didn't really press the issue since I already ordered the LEDs, if they're uneven brightness I'm going to be pissed though.

#20 4 years ago

CLP6C-FKB-CM1Q1H1BB7R3R3 looks hotter than the stock led:
915mcd Red, 1820mcd Green, 457.5mcd Blue

I imagine you could increase the resistance of the cathode to reduce the brightness if an issue.

Not surprising that some of the LEDs are burning out... the current Cathode resistors appear to be driving the full 20mA thru the LED dies.

#21 4 years ago
Quoted from Zitt:

915mcd Red, 1820mcd Green, 457.5mcd Blue

This information is not correct, its not even close to the manufactures spec sheet for this product. If you click on the datasheet link on the digikey web page you will see the error.

Quoted from Zitt:

Not surprising that some of the LEDs are burning out... the current Cathode resistors appear to be driving the full 20mA thru the LED dies.

I have to disagree, 20mA is the design spec for this part, driving it at its rated specifications will in no way reduce its lifespan unless there was a flaw in the manufacturing process.

#22 4 years ago

I see what you mean... the part number is CLP6C-FKB-C M1 Q1 H1 BB7R3R3
M = Red between 700-900mcd.
Q = Green @ 1400-1800
B = Blue @ 355-450

So they def overspeced the part if the Man. Part number is correct in their listing.

#23 4 years ago

I had the same problem. Check my post #7, replacement p/n and pics:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-multicolor-led-supplier

#24 4 years ago

Starting to look like a fairly common problem, guess I'll add 20 of these to my shopping cart at Mouser.

#25 4 years ago

Had the same issues on another insert. Chas sent me a new board. Everything worked great.

#26 4 years ago

Just an FYI. Last time a color on the rgb board died for me, I attached a 555 socket and a bulb. In this case, a 555 socket and a red flex using the red wire and common from the led board. The game was up and running with parts laying around and I didn't have down time waiting for things to ship.

#27 4 years ago

I received the LEDs today and soldered it in. Worked perfectly. Thanks guys. BTW - I purposely didn't use my hot air rework system to see if I could replace it with a standard soldering iron and it was super easy. Don't hesitate to do this. cost 50 cents for an LED over whatever stern will charge for a new board.

#28 4 years ago

So no obvious issues with dimmer inserts / colors?

#29 4 years ago
Quoted from Zitt:

So no obvious issues with dimmer inserts / colors?

If I didn't know, I'd have no idea which one I replaced. It looks perfect.

#30 4 years ago

Pimp! good to see / hear. I'm gonna favorite this so I have a reference later when I need it.

#31 4 years ago

I did the same thing on my Metallica LE on the sparky inserts to make them blue.

#32 4 years ago

Thanks for updating the post, I'm glad to hear they worked out well and good to know you can do them without a hot air rework station.

#33 4 years ago

I tried taking pics with my cell but they came out shit. If I have time later I"ll put out the camera and we can play spot the weird LED.

#34 4 years ago
Quoted from msj2222:

I'll tell you from personal experience...its not $12.-, that's for sure. Maybe shipping is

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/520-5333-00 $12 plus shipping

#36 4 years ago

Even at $12 I rather just fix it myself. Hopefully no one is tossing these in the trash.

#37 4 years ago
Quoted from fattdirk:

More like $69 + shipping.
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/520-6808-00
I think I'll just spend the 50 cents.

Oh my mistake.. I thought it was the individual insert board... and yes... even at $12 I would rather change out the led...

#38 4 years ago

both boards that went bad on mine had multiple color changing leds and were more than even the $69.-

#39 4 years ago
Quoted from robotronjohn:

Oh my mistake.. I thought it was the individual insert board... and yes... even at $12 I would rather change out the led...

Me too. I wish I would've taken pics of me soldering the LEDS in so I could create a tutorial thread so no one wastes their money. Hindsight is 20/20 I guess.

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