(Topic ID: 178380)

Still Looking For A Good Repair Person In Brooklyn, NY

By chippe01

7 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 7 posts
  • 2 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 years ago by CrazyLevi
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

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#1 7 years ago

I had posted this on the Ads list, but figured it might get more exposure here. If this is not allowed, please forgive me.

I need the power/rectifier board replaced in my Silverball Mania machine. I have a new Rottendog rectifier board, but am no good at electronics or soldering.

The reason I believe the board needs replacing is because none of the feature lights are working, and one of the rectifiers seems burned out, and one of the pins and the casing also has a burn mark.

I'd also like a general machine check because when I bought this machine I was told it was checked by a service tech, but some of the wires were fooled with and it seems that tech did a sloppy job. There's a loose grounding wire in the backbox - to give you an idea of the sloppiness. But what do I know?

I'd need someone who knows pinball electronics, and hopefully this machine in general, that can come to my apartment to do this.

I also have new MPU / Lamp Driver and Solenoid driver boards from Alltek. If the installed boards checkout OK I wouldn't need these installed. I could probably install those myself.

Is there anyone here, or anyone who knows a good tech that can do in home service in Brooklyn?

I would appreciate any assistance.

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#2 7 years ago

I should add, if it were just a matter of matching up the wires with the contact points, I might attempt this myself, but since additional wires were patched and soldered to the front of the board, i wouldn't dare attempt the replacement.

I also just noticed 3 things -

1) the 2 red wires in the picture are soldered to the same point on the rectifier board, and are soldered and capped together on the other end of the wires. What sense does this make?

2) the other lone red wire soldered at another point on the front is soldered and capped to an orange wire that seems it might be included in the J3connector. It's coming off of a wire bundle that leads to the J3 connector.

3) The F1 fuse is listed as 10A 32V fast blow in the manual, but a 10A 32V slow blow fuse was installed. Could this be the cause of the burn mark on BR1? It looks like the F1 fuse does tie into BR1.

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#4 7 years ago
Quoted from CrazyLevi:

Try Mike:
newyork.craigslist.org link

Thanks. Email sent.

#5 7 years ago

Got an appointment. Again, thank you!

#6 7 years ago

I would highly recommend Mike - he's great. Thanks again.

#7 7 years ago
Quoted from chippe01:

I would highly recommend Mike - he's great. Thanks again.

Glad it worked out!

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