(Topic ID: 28024)

Sticky LED flipper buttons?

By wescor97

11 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 25 posts
  • 15 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 years ago by PWhiz
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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    #1 11 years ago

    Does anyone else find that LED flipper buttons tend to stick? I love the look, however, the sticking is becoming a PITA....

    #2 11 years ago

    Pull it out and give it a little sand/polish between the 2 pieces...I have a clear one that sticks on my BSD a bit...

    #3 11 years ago

    what he said.. its the plastic molding.. pop the button out of the housing and sand

    #4 11 years ago

    Ya I find newer flipper buttons are more cheaply made therefore sacrificing quality, compared to parts used in williams

    2 months later
    #5 11 years ago
    Quoted from EmptyLogic:

    what he said.. its the plastic molding.. pop the button out of the housing and sand

    Little clarification please. My buttons do not seem to pull apart in two. The button has a post that runs through the button housing, but my post is flanged at the end. Does the housing open somehow?

    I have led style flipper buttons as well. I was thinking I could sand just the exposed part of the button post when fully depressed. But would like to do it right if it can be separated. My buttons are out of the cabinet.

    Led buttons in RBION and Tron are a tad sticky

    #6 11 years ago

    You can pop the thing out even with the flanged part sticking through. Pull it out and sand it a bit then pop back in.

    1 year later
    #7 9 years ago

    Resurrecting this one.....

    I've sanded the button and the housing on my Cointaker LED buttons. Still sticky, and I'm about ready to just put in the standard buttons. These LED buttons look good in my ACDC, though.

    Any other suggestions to smoothen out the button action and keep them from feeling sticky??

    #8 9 years ago

    teflon lube after sanding.

    #9 9 years ago

    What part do you sand? The shaft or the button itself?

    #11 9 years ago
    Quoted from TaylorVA:

    I sand the button

    So around the edges of the button you press with your finger?

    #12 9 years ago

    A shot of dry silicone spray works wonders. Use it on your plunger rod too!

    Edit: some things can't be unsaid.

    Post edited by sed6: lolol

    #13 9 years ago
    Quoted from QuarterGrabber:

    So around the edges of the button you press with your finger?

    I did both the button and the button housing with only a little improvement.

    I'll try the lube next.

    #14 9 years ago
    Quoted from QuarterGrabber:

    So around the edges of the button you press with your finger?

    Yep. I do the housing as well but the button seems like there is a little lip there on the clear buttons.

    #15 9 years ago

    I hated the feel of my CT clear/led buttons. I ended up loosening the screws that hold the switch against them. Gives them more play and takes less effort to depress them, so they feel more normal.

    I also heard there may be a spring in the clear buttons that it unnecessary? I still haven't checked that.

    #16 9 years ago

    I remove the springs

    #17 9 years ago

    The clear buttons suck. I posted about this when cointaker offered them in a for sale thread and cointakers only response was "we have w lifetime warranty". So my suggestion is to just get them replaced every month.

    #18 9 years ago

    I pull them out! those led buttons blow, lasted 2 weeks.

    2 weeks later
    #19 9 years ago

    I bought the BrightButtons kind from PinballLife.com and found that they were sticking/grinding/catching sometimes. It seemed to happen when I was pressing them around the edges instead of directly on the middle. Frustrated the heck out of me.

    I pulled them out and finally managed to separate them with a hammer and a little jig I made out of some hard foam. I sanded the post and the side of the button, and applied some lube but no difference. I finally took a closer look and saw that on the recessed area of the button stem right before the flange, there was a little raised number on each of them. It was part of the mold and I realized right then that it was that little number that was catching on the sleeve of the button housing. With a light bit of sanding I removed the numbers and got it smooth. Now they don't stick at all. Smooth as butter. I also removed the springs and they feel much more like the originals now.

    #20 9 years ago
    Quoted from PWhiz:

    I bought the BrightButtons kind from PinballLife.com and found that they were sticking/grinding/catching sometimes. It seemed to happen when I was pressing them around the edges instead of directly on the middle. Frustrated the heck out of me.
    I pulled them out and finally managed to separate them with a hammer and a little jig I made out of some hard foam. I sanded the post and the side of the button, and applied some lube but no difference. I finally took a closer look and saw that on the recessed area of the button stem right before the flange, there was a little raised number on each of them. It was part of the mold and I realized right then that it was that little number that was catching on the sleeve of the button housing. With a light bit of sanding I removed the numbers and got it smooth. Now they don't stick at all. Smooth as butter. I also removed the springs and they feel much more like the originals now.

    Sweet, thanks. I'll try that.

    #21 9 years ago
    Quoted from PWhiz:

    I bought the BrightButtons kind from PinballLife.com and found that they were sticking/grinding/catching sometimes. It seemed to happen when I was pressing them around the edges instead of directly on the middle. Frustrated the heck out of me.
    I pulled them out and finally managed to separate them with a hammer and a little jig I made out of some hard foam. I sanded the post and the side of the button, and applied some lube but no difference. I finally took a closer look and saw that on the recessed area of the button stem right before the flange, there was a little raised number on each of them. It was part of the mold and I realized right then that it was that little number that was catching on the sleeve of the button housing. With a light bit of sanding I removed the numbers and got it smooth. Now they don't stick at all. Smooth as butter. I also removed the springs and they feel much more like the originals now.

    I noticed that it was the raised number that made them sticky...but when I tried to take the buttons apart, they broke.

    1 month later
    #22 9 years ago
    Quoted from PWhiz:

    I bought the BrightButtons kind from PinballLife.com and found that they were sticking/grinding/catching sometimes. It seemed to happen when I was pressing them around the edges instead of directly on the middle. Frustrated the heck out of me.
    I pulled them out and finally managed to separate them with a hammer and a little jig I made out of some hard foam. I sanded the post and the side of the button, and applied some lube but no difference. I finally took a closer look and saw that on the recessed area of the button stem right before the flange, there was a little raised number on each of them. It was part of the mold and I realized right then that it was that little number that was catching on the sleeve of the button housing. With a light bit of sanding I removed the numbers and got it smooth. Now they don't stick at all. Smooth as butter. I also removed the springs and they feel much more like the originals now.

    I fixed a friend's machine recently and this was exactly the same issue.

    #23 9 years ago
    Quoted from PWhiz:

    I bought the BrightButtons kind from PinballLife.com and found that they were sticking/grinding/catching sometimes. It seemed to happen when I was pressing them around the edges instead of directly on the middle. Frustrated the heck out of me.
    I pulled them out and finally managed to separate them with a hammer and a little jig I made out of some hard foam. I sanded the post and the side of the button, and applied some lube but no difference. I finally took a closer look and saw that on the recessed area of the button stem right before the flange, there was a little raised number on each of them. It was part of the mold and I realized right then that it was that little number that was catching on the sleeve of the button housing. With a light bit of sanding I removed the numbers and got it smooth. Now they don't stick at all. Smooth as butter. I also removed the springs and they feel much more like the originals now.

    Any secret to getting apart without breaking to sand the number? Most importantly, Do I have to do a 'little jig' to successfully accomplish this? I'm not a very good dancer.

    Quoted from Rarehero:

    I noticed that it was the raised number that made them sticky...but when I tried to take the buttons apart, they broke.

    Did you dance the jig? I'm thinking that might be the issue.

    #24 9 years ago

    I stood it up with the button facing up, spread a pair of pliers to where they were only touching the housing and gave it (the pliers) a good tap with a hammer. I put a rag between the pliers and button housing. I've done it this way 3 or 4 times now with no broken buttons or fingers.

    #25 9 years ago

    ^That's one way to do it. I just happened to have a decent size block of dense, but still kind of squishy, foam(ie, not the white crumbly kind). I gored out a small roundish chunk, enough for the center button part to rest in and used a hammer to whack at the post. The shock absorption of the foam seemed to prevent any breaks. I did it a number of times without any damage.

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