(Topic ID: 186114)

Sterns new cabinets...

By daddyxxx

7 years ago


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    #338 7 years ago
    Quoted from Skypilot:

    They are using a 7 ply cabinet grade material. I cannot say more on the product. It looks like they are wrapping the decals and then assembling the corners. This does leave less area to adhere glue to so I'm a bit skeptical about that. I am not knowledgeable about there internal bracing so I will not add opinion.

    I can confirm that the Spooky cabinets have their decals applied to the parts first, and then assembled using pocket screws. They look very solid.

    I'm unsure if they are also glued ... if they are not, you could unscrew a side, pop it off and replace the decal. Very neat.

    rd

    #601 7 years ago
    Quoted from Baiter:

    No it was more like 2013 when Stern started using those, around Metallica. TF came out in 2011.

    Late model Transformers had them fitted. My LE is #450 (ish) and it had them fitted from the factory.

    I'm guessing they added them mid run as they had issues with the cabinet decals bunching up on the corners on the early ones.

    rd

    #680 7 years ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    When I do a load calculation, I like to go 4X

    That's ok when you're young, but as you get older the volume seems to diminish somewhat ...

    rd

    #872 7 years ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    Probably the best solution is to take a T-square and with a brand new razor, make a straight, clean cut through the decal, down the fault line.
    That way, the cab joint can expand/contract with the seasons, nudging, or transporting the game - without a jagged tear through the decal.
    -
    If you can deform an interior bracket with a pair of pliers, it's not going to keep the seams from moving - that's for sure.
    If the screws don't EXACTLY fit the bracket holes, it's not going to keep the seams from moving - that's for sure (It could make it worse by pulling apart the seam).
    It's going to take a lot of little #6 or #8 screws to hold against many hundreds of pounds of force applied to that corner.
    Remember a little sheet metal bracket might say it's rated to failure @200 lbs, but were not worried about outright failure, were worried about how many pounds of pressure will allow the bracket to deform 1mm - which is plenty enough to crack that seam.

    I would probably go the old school route for brackets.

    Make up some triangle wedges, glue them with PVA and staple them into to corners.

    Once that glue dries, the corners will never move.

    Here's the inside of my KISS ... you can see the bottom of the cab has wedges (where the legs are) but there is nothing at the top. Running a wedge up as high as you can would make a big difference.

    Paint em black and they'd look factory too.

    rd

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    #874 7 years ago
    Quoted from Gryszzz:

    What's PVA RD?

    Poly Vinyl Acetate. You can see I got 90% in woodwork at High School.

    Wood glue.

    rd

    #880 7 years ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    My concern is that the paint won't let the glue seep into the wood's pores, so it won't have very good strength.

    I don't think it'd be an issue .. the cabinets paint isn't thick, just a one coat blast. The staples would help too if put in skewed (45 degrees to the cabinet)

    Of course, Stern could easily fix the problem for a few cents a cabinet when they are making them. Either:
    A/ run the wedge right to the top
    B/ run 2" screws through the joint and putty the hole. The decals go over the top so you wouldn't see it. Homepin has gone this route with their cabinets
    C/ use more glue!

    rd

    #883 7 years ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    Staples are only there to hold the position until the glue dries.

    That's certainly one reason to use staples, but if they are skewed, they will also add strength to the joint.
    https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toenailing

    If you just drive staples in straight (like you can see Stern does in one of the pictures in this thread) that does nothing, the staple will just pull right out.

    rd

    #906 7 years ago
    Quoted from jwilson:

    ...'77 Gottlieb EM ... I think the difference is they put the wedge piece all the way from the bottom to the top

    rd

    1 week later
    #1193 6 years ago
    Quoted from PanzerFreak:

    You can't design and build games like WOZ, TH or Dialed In in short period of time. Those games are the Ferrari's, the super cars, of pinball right now

    Ferraris? Maybe this car would be a more apt comparison.

    rd

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    2 weeks later
    #1401 6 years ago
    Quoted from BMore-Pinball:

    I'm hoping the quality on Houdini, Dialed In, and others is very high - nothing like competition to force you to improve your quality

    Yeah, all the competition will really help to keep the prices down too. Ohhhhhhh .... wait ...

    rd

    #1495 6 years ago
    Quoted from PanzerFreak:

    I'll give JJP this, when it comes to the cabinets they use they have the better product. The cabinets are built better, use higher quality wood (and miter joints) and have a far better finish on them compared to Stern cabinets.

    They also cost $3000 more than a Stern Pro.

    rd

    #1499 6 years ago
    Quoted from paulywalnuts23:

    Don't think this cabinet construction is limited to just Pros.

    Yeah, I was taking the piss.

    rd

    4 weeks later
    #1783 6 years ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    Even if Stern had those 25cent B/W brackets, it would still crack the same way (same as all the cracked B/W cabs I've fixed).
    Six little #8 screws offer nothing as far as holding power in soft wood.

    Gotta agree. The brackets at the bottom will provide *some* help, but the only way to make the joint rock solid is to glue a wedge all the way up the inside of the joint.

    PS you guys who are fitting the leg brackets or the corner brackets, make sure you use a screw with a beefy wood thread, like the one in this picture. They'll lock into the wood a lot better than a fine thread screw ... they'll likely just pull out under any serious load.

    rd

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