Quoted from Manimal:Yes, I am sure folks like The Black Knight are going to jump in and say this problem didn't exist with the old cabinets, and yes Vid is going to say it did....I completely respect both of their opinions, based on their years of experience. The true reality is probably somewhere in the middle.
Yes, it existed, as I directly specified, please do not misguide people.
That ends that discussion.
However, I also explained the SIX direct causes for very early damage, if the game was new out of box for one month, which otherwise is uncommon.
Mostly out of negligence of operators or owners in the past.
Materials and construction were not purely synonymous since the 1940s until today.
Basic designs are the same, so I am not going to say there was some type of revelation in the modern Stern age, that they figured out a way to build cabinets better, because you cannot unless you use better quality materials, more labor, and more time.
Yes, it has relevance.
Yes, there were times that metal was used more heavily in construction.
I gave WICO as an example in the 80s, or WMS in the 60s.
That is not a solution either.
The biggest differences on cabinets is how they were reinforced on the inside (the most critical aspect), what materials were used beyond standard 7 layer plywood, and how the joints were cut including mitering of edges, not just the joints.
The basic standard is a 45 degree miter joint with internal reinforcement with wood triangles using hide glue and industrial staples, with a lower cabinet crossbar. Rear joints were butted, or mitered. Back panel was mill edged and glued. Leg bolts were mounted on a simple recessed metal plate with two nails driven into wood triangle.
Earlier games even used wooden dowels essentially turning them into furniture.
When games started to become heavier in the 1980s, larger metal plates were used for the corner bracing, but the basic construction remained the same including the crossbar. Sometimes more triangles were used, or even full corner strips.
Bottoms still tended to be cheap materials.
After the the shenanigans with particle board cabinets, most manufacturers retained standard plywood construction.
In the late 80s-early 90s, we lost the solid crossbar (or T-brace in some cases), as less and less weight was on the bottom of the cabinet itself, except a speaker.
The "BLY/WMS leg bolt plates" (the ones everybody recognizes today) did not start being used until around 1993 (based on the weight of games increasing again with titles such as TZ, STTNG, and RS), up to that point, BLY/WMS used the same flat metal strips that were designed years before.
The two things that concern me about this situation is:
1 ) What type of joints are being used for the cabinet?
They are not 45 degree miter or dovetail (trapezoidal) for the front which reduces interlocking strength, especially if there is glue separation, as there is nothing to hold the side panel back from cracking. I think Stern might have been caught red handed again in the cost cutting cookie jar, which is highly unfortunate. I have not checked the back corners of my MET, which in the past were butt jointed at minimum. This is why I recommended to install a flanged angle brace which keeps the joint in place in conjunction with new leg bolt plates. Very strong.
2 ) What type of glue is being used?
Hide glue is fine, as long as it is properly allowed to dry with clamps.
It just has to be watched occasionally after 5 years or so.
Unless you are constantly moving games, it really should not matter.
I hope people do not expect Stern to be sending out carpenters to fix people's games or new cabinets.
Building pinball cabinets is the least complicated part of the pinball process!
If a person wants to learn how to make their own cabinet or how they are made and educate themselves without speculation, here is a solid guide:
https://howtobuildapinballmachine.wordpress.com/category/the-cabinet/
Education is most important part of this discussion now.