(Topic ID: 72569)

Stern Wild Fyre MPU power woes

By PinballTilt

10 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 12 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 years ago by blanner22
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 10 years ago

Hello everyone, i've enjoyed reading the forum every day while trying to restore my Stern Wild Fyre pinball but now I am in need of some guidance. I have just about finished a full restoration of the game, having gone through most of the boards, cleaning and waxing the playfield, and replacing molex pins. The game worked alright before the restoration but had some issues that needed fixed, it would stop working intermittently, some displays were non-functional, and the sound didn't work right. Now down to the issue I am having.

I turned the game back on following the instructions on several websites but notably techniek.flipperwinkel. The rectifier test point voltages were wrong at first but after replacing all components and all molex connectors, it is working great. My issue is when I apply power to the MPU. The MPU was working before any restoration was performed on the machine and it still works just fine on a test fixture using a power supply. In the pinball machine with my rectifier and transformer is the problem.

Based on everything I have been able to read, the MPU needs 5vdc and 12vdc (plus the 43 volts) to function and start the flashing sequence. When I test the 5 volts, test point 5 on the MPU, it reads something like 4.9. Is this close enough to 5 or does it need to be right on? The 12 volts is 12 volts at test point 2, which makes sense since the LED comes on just fine. Usually when starting up the game it will do the initial flicker, then flash something like 12 times, all the while a relay on the sdb clicks and the displays pulse each time it clicks. After the flashing, it will stay lit. Pressing the reset button after this on the MPU will sometimes change the lights that are lit on the playfield.

I'm driving myself crazy with trying to figure out this problem. All test points on the rectifier board test fine and all test points on the sdb test good with the possible exception of TP4 which reads something like 255 instead of 230 vdc. Could this be indicative of the issue? My gut tells me it is probably the wiring between the MPU and the rectifier or sdb but it all seems to check out. Using the wiring schematics the colors all match up right and the solder joints look good on both the rectifier and sdb. Maybe from all the plugging and unplugging on the MPU, J4s molex pins no longer engage well? I am open to questions and would love nothing more for christmas than to get this game up and running to enjoy some pinball!

Thanks

#2 10 years ago

Your issue is on the MPU. Repeated odd flashing can be hard to track down. Bad u7, u8, since you get PIA activity (clicking of relay and non decoded solenoids do this on 5th flash) could be u10, u11. Most likely it is an IC socket problem some where.

Using a small flat head screwdriver, slightly pry up and reseat your ICs. See if you get different behavior.

#3 10 years ago

Thank you for the reply. I did sand the prongs on my ROM ICs and reseat them, but I haven't tried that after fixing the power supply so I'll give it another go tonight. I am thinking that since it worked before, it has to be something I have changed on it, and I didn't change much. Does it sound like the voltages are correct and I can rule out everything but the MPU?

I see you are in Columbus. I am just a few minutes from there. Do you do house calls? haha

Thanks

#4 10 years ago

If you are positive it's the board(sure sounds that way)---
You may want to buy an Alltek CPU board.
They work the balls....cost $190 last I checked...and will work on any Stern or Bally 1978-1984...even some 85's.
And...power distribution to your entire game will be improved due to the newer components and technology.

I also know an incredible board tech who fixes these boards all the time for $50 ($40 work - $10 to ship back).
I've used him on 4 boards..and he has always succeeded.

If you want his info(Massachusetts resident)...let me know.
GLuck
JEG-

#5 10 years ago

I hope to figure this out myself before trying to send it out as I want the satisfaction of restoring it completely by myself, thanks though for the contact and I may take you up in the future. Thinking over the last two replies, it doesn't make sense that ICs are the culprit or a new board is needed as the board tests fine on the test fixture. Its just when applying power through my wiring and power supply boards that the issue comes up. Does anyone have any experience on what to check with that in mind. There must be a test point that would indicate a problem with voltages for it to not work when wired like this.

#6 10 years ago

Disconnect everything but MPU j4 and see if it boots properly. Your voltages are good enough to power the MPU.

#7 10 years ago

It seems to start up ok with J4 disconnected, the lights come on and I hear things energize. I'm not sure what should happen though as I haven't been around pinball very long. The lights on the MPU don't flash of course because there is no power.

Can you describe a proper boot for me with J4 disconnected? So are you saying that the test points are showing that the issue isn't the wiring from power to MPU? Because if I can rule that out I can start to diagnose other things on the MPU.

Thanks

#8 10 years ago

MPU J4 is the power input connector and the solenoid data output connector. So with just j4 you should get all 7 flashes and here normal startup coil activity.

Since it boots with just j4, add the connectors back one by one and see what causes problems. Maybe your slam switch is stuck and it constantly reboots because it thinks there was a slam tilt.

The sound board is directly connected to the CPU. Issues on the sound board can cause problems on the MPU. Sometimes the input chips on the sound boards crap out and it holds an address or data line in a wrong state. Triple check you have the sound board connector on right too.

#9 10 years ago

Ahh, I had misunderstood you. Disconnect everything BUT J4, I was thinking the opposite. I will try that and follow your method of connecting things back one at a time.

#10 10 years ago
Quoted from barakandl:

Disconnect everything but MPU j4 and see if it boots properly. Your voltages are good enough to power the MPU.

Thanks for the advice! I was able to narrow down the problem to the sound board and with it unplugged, I got to play the first games after restoring it. You're a lifesaver

#11 10 years ago

The Sound board plug is easy to install wrong. It is also easily damaged. And to top it off the sound board can crash the MPU if there is a problem.

I would give a good visual inspection of the ribbon connector and solder joints of the male plugs.

If it comes to your sound board needs repaired or tested, i can help you.

2 months later
#12 10 years ago

how much would a nice wild fyre go for? 100% and 7-7/10

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