(Topic ID: 30481)

Stern t-molding


By dug

8 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 35 posts
  • 21 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 months ago by Codeman00
  • Topic is favorited by 8 Pinsiders

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StarTrekPro_(resized).jpg
51Tr-ZERfqL_(resized).jpg
IMG_4276_edited-1.jpg
Josh_N_Eric_004.jpg
Stern2_001.jpg

#1 8 years ago

Anyone change out the chrome t-molding on the newer sterns with black t-molding?
If so could you post some pics? I'm thinking of changing it out on SM and BDK. The chrome is kind of cheap looking and scratched.

#2 8 years ago

I don't know what width you need, but check with Arcade Shop LLC
http://www.arcadeshop.com/parts.htm#T-molding

This is a 3/4" width chrome molding the sell:
http://www.arcadeshop.com/pics/chrome-t-molding.jpg

#3 8 years ago

Anyone change out the chrome t-molding on the newer sterns with black t-molding?
If so could you post some pics? I'm thinking of changing it out on SM and BDK. The chrome is kind of cheap looking and scratched.

I change it out on all my Sterns to the bumpy black.

Stern2_001.jpg Josh_N_Eric_004.jpg

#5 8 years ago

What about the gold molding that LOTR uses?

#6 8 years ago
Quoted from tracelifter:

I change it out on all my Sterns to the bumpy black.

Thanks Tracelifter, that's what I was looking for.

#7 8 years ago

I don't have a photo handy, but I changed the chrome on my XM LE (Wolverine) to blue. It didn't quite match the blue trim, so I got some Krylon plastic paint and sprayed the trim to match. It looks really good and cost less than $10 to do.

#8 8 years ago
Quoted from dug:

Thanks Tracelifter, that's what I was looking for.

No problem, glad to help.
To me the chrome gold etc. looks cheap and tacky and mitering the corners doesn't work well so the best option is to go with a matte black and make the games in the lineup uniform.
I keep the original so if I sell the game and the buyer wants it I can reinstall it for them or include it with the game.

2 weeks later
#9 8 years ago

agree 100%. plastic chrome t-molding looks horrible on 95% of stern's machines. i used a flat black t-molding from gamemolding.com, on family guy.

ebay.com link » 20 Ft 3 4 Inch Smooth Black Arcade T Molding Sale

1 year later
#10 6 years ago

I swapped out my chrome T-molding on my WPT with the textured black version. What do you think?

IMG_4276_edited-1.jpg
#11 6 years ago

Woah, necro thread! I think swapping out the chrome t-molding for black, textured or smooth, is always a good look.

#12 6 years ago
Quoted from tracelifter:

Here is the stuff you want.

Just ordered this for SM

#13 6 years ago

Black definitely looks classier than the chrome.

Sorry for resurrecting an old thread, but I like to recycle!

#14 6 years ago
Quoted from devils4ever:

I swapped out my chrome T-molding on my WPT with the textured black version. What do you think?

IMG_4276_edited-1.jpg 199 KB

Much better, more pics here.

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-t-molding-issuessolutions#post-1454525

#15 6 years ago
Quoted from Aurich:

I think swapping out the chrome t-molding for black, textured or smooth, is always a good look.

Especially when the stuff that comes on your $8000 LE pinball machine looks like it was beat to death with a hammer.
I found the reason why! Installing the new molding was a difficult task, but when I did Nascar with the same roll, it was easy. Apparently the newer machine had a narrower channel. I'm not buying anymore NIBs anyway. At least not this week.

#16 6 years ago
Quoted from o-din:

Especially when the stuff that comes on your $8000 LE pinball machine looks like it was beat to death with a hammer.
I found the reason why! Installing the new molding was a difficult task, but when I did Nascar with the same roll, it was easy. Apparently the newer machine had a narrower channel. I'm not buying anymore NIBs anyway. At least not this week.

Yeah, it was pretty easy to replace the T-molding. 10-20 mins. I didn't even need a hammer to fully seat it. I just kept pushing it in with my fingers until it was all the way in.

#17 6 years ago
Quoted from devils4ever:

Yeah, it was pretty easy to replace the T-molding. 10-20 mins. I didn't even need a hammer to fully seat it. I just kept pushing it in with my fingers until it was all the way in.

yeah, I replaced the strip of smooth black on inside of my RFM (under the lockdown bar) and it was pretty easy. I ran it edge to edge and now it looks a lot nicer than the original piece. the original section was cut too short and was all scraped up from someone dragging the playfield tubing stop pegs on the across it.

like devils4ever stated, once you get an end started, simply work with a small area at a time and just push it in all of the way with your thumbs. that way you maintain a nice, even smooth look instead it looking like someone beat it into place with a rubber mallet (which is probably how it was installed at the factory to save time)

the hardest part it is to cut the ends completely straight. even with a new, sharp pair of scissors

#18 6 years ago
Quoted from j_m_:

the hardest part it is to cut the ends completely straight. even with a new, sharp pair of scissors

I used a utility knife to cut and a scrap piece of plywood to cut against. I just eyeballed it and it looks great. I used the edge of the plywood to hold the rib against. I guess if you're a fanatic, you could cut a groove wide enough for the rib in the scrap plywood and cut across.

#19 6 years ago
Quoted from devils4ever:

you could cut a groove wide enough for the rib in the scrap plywood and cut across.

that's actually a great idea, thx I may it a whirl when the molding for the head shows up

#20 6 years ago

Ordered the 3/4 black leather textured T-molding and will do some swapping with my ST Pro!

#21 6 years ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

Ordered the 3/4 black leather textured T-molding and will do some swapping with my ST Pro!

Nice, put up some pics when you're done. Black works with everything IMHO.

2 years later
#22 4 years ago

Hey you guys.

How much is needed to do a Stern backbox ?

#23 4 years ago

Those Sears Handi-Cuts are the greatest thing ever invented for cutting T-molding.

No effort at all, and perfectly clean cuts; cut them barb side towards the blade.

Make sure you have a fresh razor blade in them, if you have been using them around the house.

51Tr-ZERfqL_(resized).jpg

#24 4 years ago
Quoted from Aurich:

Nice, put up some pics when you're done. Black works with everything IMHO.

Thanks for bumping the thread. I had forgot all about putting up the pics of my ex-Star Trek Pro.

StarTrekPro_(resized).jpg

1 week later
#25 4 years ago

In shopping for 3/4" plywood I am finding that almost no plywood is a true .75". What I am finding is .70" advertised as 3/4" plywood.

Will 3/4" T molding work with .70" plywood?

Thanks

4 years later
#26 6 months ago

I can't find anything on how to take the old T-molding out on a Stern. Do you just pry the old molding straight out with a small screwdriver?

#27 6 months ago

There’s no real trick to it. Find the end, pry it up a little bit and pull it off.

#28 6 months ago
Quoted from pipes:

There’s no real trick to it. Find the end, pry it up a little bit and pull it off.

Great to hear. Thank you!

#29 6 months ago

I would just add that you’ll want to move slowly during removal to make sure you don’t break off any small painted bits from the plywood. I have had that happen. Good luck.

#30 6 months ago

Any issues with it breaking the channel on backbox?

#31 6 months ago
Quoted from Hayfarmer:

Any issues with it breaking the channel on backbox?

if you rip it out to fast it can take little bits of plywood out of the channel with it. You can lightly hit it with a heat gun to soften the molding as you pull it out, it will be less likely to grab this way.

4 weeks later
#32 6 months ago

Hi guys! any tips you can offer with swapping out the t-molding on the newer sterns like Elvira or JP? I'm looking to change the colors of afew of my newer sterns. Thanks!

#33 5 months ago

t-molding.com should have you covered for your new t-molding needs. if you've got one, the craftsman handi-cut tool is one of the best out there for cutting the t-molding perfectly straight.

a seller on amazon.com still has them, but they've gotten pricey over the years since sears no longer sells them
amazon.com link »

#34 5 months ago

My experience was to slowly remove the old one; the wood can chip out while removing. I used the old one as the template for the new one, including the inside cutouts for the corners. The length still doesn’t always end up perfect so you just trim the last piece if needed. Since the seam faces down I didn’t think it needs to be perfect but I can see why some would want that.

#35 5 months ago
Quoted from devils4ever:

I swapped out my chrome T-molding on my WPT with the textured black version. What do you think?
[quoted image]

I think it looks great! Much better than the chrome. I did the same to my WPT and couldn't be happier...I appreciate the suggestion and photos.

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