(Topic ID: 320227)

stern stingray

By Snow

1 year ago


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  • 32 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by Snow
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#1 1 year ago

i recently bought a stern stingray at a estate sale for 55$ it was in a room with an indoor pool it has slight damage from the high humidity but not bad other than minor paint damage but after replacing all of the boards except the rectifier board all the lights turn on but nothing happens the displays do not turn on but they may need to be replace after the humidity exposer the chime box used to play when turned on but recently stopped it feels like its slowing getting worse after that and I've done all that I know to and need suggests on what to do next

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#2 1 year ago

Gotta actually verify the voltages on the rectifier board (which it looks like you didn't replace, correct?). Blindly replacing boards isn't a good idea

#3 1 year ago

thanks im going to do that

#4 1 year ago

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern

Read this, its a great resource. Something else Id suggest is checking the fuses are the proper rated fuses

#5 1 year ago

i found one blown fuse it was the third 4amp fuse I'm planning to replace all on the rectifier board just to be safe after sitting for so many years

#6 1 year ago
Quoted from Snow:

i found one blown fuse it was the third 4amp fuse I'm planning to replace all on the rectifier board just to be safe after sitting for so many years

Fuses dont go bad, just make sure theyre the proper rating. I would suggest reading up before moving forward

#7 1 year ago

oh I didn't know that thanks also i have a board that has lights on it and only the one in the middle is lighting are they all supposed to light up and if sop what do they mean if u know

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#8 1 year ago

Snowwwww i really would suggest doing some research first to get the basics down, its all out there. Check out Joes Classic Video Games on Youtube, he does lots of videos on these Bally/Sterns.

#9 1 year ago

i thought i knew kinda what i was doing like i had already checked the rectifier board once and came to conclusion it was good but i was obviously incorrect also i watched a lot of his videos and my lack of knowledge is due to me being fourteen

#11 1 year ago

Thanks for the help

#12 1 year ago

update... I went with a voltage tester and checked all the test points on the rectifier board after replacing the fuse all of the lights are lighting up green but there is now a red light that says it is over voltage even though all the read outs say it in the right except one that was supposed to be 240v but was 224v so the only one that is not correct is under voltage I am confused on why it says that, I'm going to test the next board to see if there is something happening in it to make it over voltage some where on that board the one that says it is over voltage is the third board in the line of board it passes though

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#13 1 year ago

The game has been in a moisture rich environment. You are just going to chase your tail until you replace ALL the connectors. I’ve rebuilt dozens of games for friends. Some of those games have been going for over 5 years now and no connector problems. Stingray was my latest game. The first thing I do is replace the connectors. It’s a big job but it’s worth it. Those connectors are 20 years older than you.
Once you have good solid electric flowing then you can sort out the small problems.

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#14 1 year ago

When you say new connectors do you mean just new metal on the connections or entirely new wires. I'm not trying stay I think that's not going to work I'm just really scared to do more harm than good and mess something really bad to the point where I cant fix it. but your probably right and I will look into it and see if I can do it also I'm kind of on a tight budget now after replacing all those board so I might have to get some money before I do that depending on how much that will cost the boards by the way I did not replace blindly they had lots of corrosion that i am not skilled enough to fix basically I don't know how to solder

#15 1 year ago
Quoted from Snow:

When you say new connectors do you mean just new metal on the connections or entirely new wires.

Just the wire end connectors.
You'll need the crimp pins, housings, and a crimp tool.
You will not need the board side male headers since your replacement boards have new pins built in.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/CKBLY-MPU

#17 1 year ago

thank you

#18 1 year ago

Some links for inexpensive options for your crimp connections.

https://www.taydaelectronics.com/sn-48b-crimping-tool-plier-0-5-1-5-mm-for-awg-26-16.html
https://www.taydaelectronics.com/connectors-sockets/wafer-housing-crimp-terminal/crimp-terminal-connector-3-96mm.html
https://www.taydaelectronics.com/connectors-sockets/wafer-housing-crimp-terminal/crimp-terminal-connector-2-54mm.html

You can also get some of the replacing connector housings there but their size range is limited. Ideally you'd upgrade your .154" (3.56mm) connections to trifurcon terminals but the ones I linked work just fine if you're on a budget. .100" (2.54mm) terminals only come in the one style, afaik.

You can reuse the connector housings, provided they aren't burnt or filled with green slime from corrosion. A sharp point, very small flathead screwdriver, or anything to depress the terminal through the open slot on the housing and you can get it out.

All of this takes a little practice but you can do it.

#19 1 year ago

if given the option to solder your connections together or or re crimp what is better

#20 1 year ago

If you solder the wires on, how do you ever get the boards back out? That's why there are connectors. I paid less than $100.00 for the new connectors for my Stingray - and that included all new headers. Roughly you'll need 100 - 0.156 (22 - 26 ga. wire), 100 - 0.156 (18 - 20 ga. wire), 250 - 0.1. You'll also need wire cutters, small screw driver, wire strippers, and crimping tool. I suggest this:
https://www.amazon.com/HT-225D-Cycle-Ratchet-Crimping-interchangeable/dp/B007JLN93S

I never replace the housings unless they are broken or burnt.

I suggest you read the thread I posted above. A lot of good information there.

#21 1 year ago
Quoted from Snow:

the option to solder your connections together

Please don't solder the wires to the pins on the boards.
It just makes fixing things correctly harder.

#22 1 year ago

do you guys know of any places that still make the button style lockdown bars for a reasonable price or should I buy a new receiver and get a shark fin lockdown bar

#23 1 year ago
Quoted from Snow:

do you guys know of any places that still make the button style lockdown bars for a reasonable price or should I buy a new receiver and get a shark fin lockdown bar

Just put out a wanted to buy on various pinball forums. I'm sure someone has one for you.

1 week later
#24 1 year ago

todays a fun one
my solenoid driver board CAUGHT ON FIRE! A solenoid caught on fire yesterday and now i have a bunch of burnt pins so, I need to replace a lot more pins now, need to spend another 200 dollars, and hope my house doesn't burn down. Good news it booted yesterday and then, it caught on fire so it was very close to it booting almost there just a little more work.

#25 1 year ago

Reach out to barakandl to find out what might’ve caused that new board to fail like that. Hopefully it is something relatively easy to diagnose. Definitely repin your connectors.

If you want to eliminate the need for the high voltage section on the solenoid board and replace your plasma displays with LED displays, pm me and I’ll send you a set of pre-assembled LISY displays cheap. https://lisy.dev/bally-7digit.html

#26 1 year ago

Hope this helps

Bob

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#27 1 year ago

thank you mine looks nothing like that

#28 1 year ago

post a photo of your J4.

#29 1 year ago

the bottom ones are the ones that are messed up

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#30 1 year ago

43 volt line is missing.

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#31 1 year ago

so the red light that was lighting up on the mpu that said overvoltage was not overvoltage it didn't have any voltage so it just said ov but the 43 is just in the wrong place so I fixed that and ill look at the 5v tomorrow

#32 1 year ago

I’ve been tweaking it today and it booted and then blew the 1 amp slow blo fuse under the playfield There is also a 1/4 amp slow blow that was blown by the chime box. I put the old solenoid driver board back in it while I wait for the new one and it’s working fine for now

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