Star Wars (LE)
Stern, 2017
Star Wars (Premium)
Stern, 2017
Star Wars (Pro)
Stern, 2017
Star Wars Comic Art (Premium)
Stern, 2019
Star Wars Comic Art (Pro)
Stern, 2019You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider kobaja.
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My LE hasn't arrived yet so I have one question. Does the cabinet come with protectors for the legs or would I need to buy those separately before delivery of the machine itself.
It's my first nib, so please excuse of this is a stupid question
Quoted from John1210:I agree. Maybe because they dont sit flush but yeah they don't look right to me. The bezel on the mini LCD looks like a bad move to me too. Leave the bezel black to make the screen pop. There is no need to put anything on it imo but each to their own.
Perfectly agree. I would consider the speaker covers if they were one piece, meaning a complete replacement for the lower section holding the screen and speakers. Like this... Meh.
To me this does look kind of interesting, but as long as it is not ONE complete replacement for the entire panel holding the screen and speakers it will always look added, kind of like those fake exhaust pipes, people use to pimp their rides. Not my cup of tea.
--> To get me interested, it would need to be a replacement for the entire panel holding the screen and speakers. It would need to match the original in choice of material, surface roughness and color. Then, you could charge REAL money for it. You will make the same profit with less parts and brand yourselves in a much more premium segment.
This is my personal opinion.
I know I've asked this already a while ago, but nevertheless: Any news yet on the accessories?
- headphone jack
- topper
Quoted from beelzeboob:...and by the way, is anybody else getting the feeling that the R2D2 topper isn't actually going to materialize anytime soon?
It's suspiciously silent. I'm more worried about the headphone accessory, to be honest...
Have owned the game for about 3 weeks now. I am amazed how insanely difficult I am finding it to achieve much. Probably I'm not the most skilled player, but despite me knowing this I am slowly reaching a certain level of frustration. I hardly manage to complete any of the missions.
I feel every shot needs very careful control and every mistake is directly paid in a drain. In my case this means that I cannot experience the great flow this machine is supposed to have, as most of the flow is directed towards the drain.
How is everyone else experiencing this?
Thanks. This is on my list of TO-DOs and hope moving the posts will even be noticable in gameplay 
I'll get to that next week, when I replace a part that was broken on delivery, add the airball plastic and install the mirror blades.
Quoted from SilverballNut:So it is insanely fast, but it doesn't feel like it has cheap drains (except the occasional ball launch, which I'll be tweaking this weekend). [...]
Thank you for this extensive description. Much appreciated
Played that video mode on my LE for the first time yesterday. I'm otherwise quite happy with the pin, but MAN that is the slowest and most boring video mode ever.
I it waaaay to slow and relaxed. Feels like a scenic flight or something. It's really not much fun and I hope this is not complete.
Things I would enjoy:
- more speed / thrill by design (not just voluntary speed-up)
- things to collect in the mode
- mode terminates on first impact
Just my 2 cents...
Quoted from frankmac:...I did not read this thread in full.
Then do it. People have different opinions and nobody can give you a concise and representative executive summary. I know it's cumbersome, but there's really no way around it.
Honestly, there is no consistent opinion.
Some say the pro has better flow, because the ramp doesn't interrupt the horseshoe-shot. Others like that interruption, because it gives the player a break.
Some say the LE/PREM looks much better and the hyperloop is the thrill, others say it adds no real component to the game and does nothing.
--> Everyone is actually right. what weights heavier is highly personal.
I own an LE and would agree with all above points. I am becoming slightly annoyed with the insane difficulty of the game. I suppose that applies to both. Probably I just suck as a player. Likely I do. Surely my guests do and they don't have that addiction, which they had to STTNG.
If I were to buy a NIB again, I would probably place a bet on a different machine ( which I hope MIGHT be made ). Monster Bash Remake. Just because of difficulty.
From a hardware POV you can move the posts that define the width of the outlane entrances. There are holes in place to do this. It is intended to be done. No drilling or anything like that. Thats a geometry change, but the difficulty remains high because it doesn't do much to the STDMs.
In Software there are settings for
- auto-plunger strength to reduce the number of drains without flipper contact.
- mystery hole eject strength. This serves to avoid STDM from the eject and also to gain control.
- Ball save times. these can be set differently for different events aka multiaballs etc.
The latter doesn't do much for me because to me personally, a lost ball still feels lost, even if it is replaced.
Quoted from konghusker:Is this game really that frustrating for most people?
To north amaricans I would sound much more frustrated than I am. PArtically cultural, partiallly me. It's a narrow line between "advertising my purchase" and "wining".
It's a great game for great players. I amsStill working on my skills with this one hoping to meet the machine on eye level one day. Not yet ready to walk away. But ATM both options are possible. Ask me again in 6 months :b :b
In case anyoneis interested in a signature plate protector for the LE - I am having the minimum batch size made and will have leftovers.
Quoted from pinstadium:It's a really good sign that you are hearing this as the newer Sterns have a built in sensor that reads the board temps. When they get to a certain temperature the fans are turned on and expel the hot air away from them and out of the cabinet. It's like your csr's thermostats and when the fans turn on even after you park the car.
If you don't hear them ever kick in on your Stern then this should be of concern. Congrats on your new game, it's an amazing pinball machine!
Some days ago I analyzed this, when looking at replacing the fan because of the noise. The stock configuration I recorded a few times with the audio recorder and compared. you can see that after switchng the pinball on, the fan will fire up for the first time after about 25-30 minutes, run for 80 seconds and make a pause of 640 seconds. annoying but normal, see attached photo. The fan noise is the regular smaller blocks in the image.
I ended up replacing it with a 60mm fan, using a custom 3d printed 40 to 60 mm fan adapter and a fan that would deliver the same volume of air with less rpm. Now it's absolutely silent.
If you're in Europe, I can provide the fan adapter part.
Duty Cycles (resized).JPG
IMG_20171029_100222-min (resized).jpg
Quoted from japespin:Thanks for the fan help, everyone. One more Stern newbie question for you.
How do you actually move the outlane pin down a notch to narrow it down? I took the nut out from underneath, but still doesn't budge. I'm admittedly being extremely careful and not using much force, so maybe I'm just being too delicate?
Loosen the nut, pull the post out to the top. Put it back in the lower hole. It does require gentle force because the clearcoat on the edge narrows the hole a bit.
Quoted from beelzeboob:Maybe that's the post that they don't use on the premium/LE models...the one next to the FORCE targets that is on the pro. Don't know why they'd put it in the bag, though.
No it's not. Steve Ritchie posted that on his FB before. Don't know what it's for either though.
Quoted from Rob_G:Maybe try lowing the pitch on your game a little.
Actually i would advise to not go below 6.5. The reson for this being the side-to-side outlane drains from the sligshots. At lower inclination it's almost unavoidable. After adjusting to 6.5 that problem has become far less of a "problem".
Quoted from cscmtp:It goes up the ramp like its going through the death star, but then drops right where the forks end, and once its sitting there, it won't drop or move. I can take a picture and show you the next time it gets stuck. Sorry if I'm not being clear
Has the fork rank ever been down at all? If not it might be stuck there from the software bug in 0.92 before the machine was delivered to you. Check if it works in general.
Quoted from chubtoad13:I almost forgot. Don’t test it with the glass off if you’ve been having this problem. If it doesn’t work, you’re going to break something.
Dude, you really made me laugh.
Quoted from ChipScott:...and do you mind me asking, where/from whom did you get the small LCD screen plating/cover? That's lookin really nice.
That is the laseriffic bezel.
Quoted from tbanthony:I'm not a huge fan of video modes just because video game consoles are so advanced that it makes any video mode on a pinball machine look like a video game from the 80's;
There is opportunty to utilize both screens in parallel with the video mode. Leaving the Asteroids for Hoth 1 frees up the proper video mode for anything from any of the movies.
how about lukes the jedi traing against that flying drone. keep it in focus with the left and right buttons, based on it location shown at the top screen. defend against its shots with the center button, which are shown on the lower screen.
that could be quite engaged and hard to copy by modern single screen video games...
Quoted from Leachdude:Premium/LE owners, do you have issues when the ball save gate divertor is open and auto-launch hit the edge of the gate causing ball not to launch at all?
This divertor should be closed when the game is launching a ball.
Yes, I do have that problem. I have been adjusting the gate so it doesn't open as much, but ultimately the difference is almost unnoticable. Occasionall it still hits. I am contemplating on cutting the back side of the gate, which sticks into the shooter lane. Slo-Mo video shows how close this ball pass is by design. Too close considering the naturally expected directional tolerance of the ball, which is to be expected from the rather crude design on the launch mechanism.
Quoted from AUKraut:According to Steve Ritchie's Stern youtube interview it's supposed to shoot to the left flipper at the default setting. If it doesn't make sure your right scoop VUK is square with the hole.
Can you please post a link to that interview? Thanks in advance
Quoted from HeadRush:I agree SW has made me a better player. When I go back to GOTG, it seems easy...kind of.
Can't agree more. Frustrating along the way, but rewarding in the end.
Edit: that basically means what others have been posting. After a few weeks on the swle, I walked up to a stern mustang in a well played pinball place and put in a high score on my very first game. Then to an AFM remake (also first timer) and scored 6 billion. Honestly after swle training it could become an issue to find a game with lastability...
Quoted from Soapman:All I can say is "Must have for pro" It took 30 min to install and looks great. Check out
Honestly this mod looks totally alien and out of place to me. Been seeing posts about it from the beginning and just don't understand what draws people to it. To each his own I guess.
Quoted from ktownhero:I just have a Pro but from a game/code perspective, I don't understand why this is still only #25 on the Top 100 list. It's easily a top 10 game, IMO. The code and layout are just so damn good. I played a ton of Aerosmith, Metallica, GoT and Dialed In this weekend and those are all great, but Star Wars should easily be considered on par with those, if not better, in my opinion.
This is because lots of people feel qualified to rate it after only a few games. And those first games are admittedly really frustrating.
I've already stated to transfer all ratings into an excel. Did about 60 up to now. My expectation is a distribution with two peaks. One around 7, one slightly less pronounced at around 9. The first being from those who have played it very little, the latter from those who actually put time into it.
I'll post this when done.
Quoted from Jaeg:I battled late into the night to face this guy. Successful I was not.
That 'guy' looks like a shaved woman.
Quoted from Kobaja:...My expectation is a distribution with two peaks. One around 7, one slightly less pronounced at around 9. The first being from those who have played it very little, the latter from those who actually put time into it.
I'll post this when done.
Well, here is the result for the PREMIUM / LE: no two peaks. I love how numbers dont lie.
Quoted from cooked71:What are the must have mods for SW (PreLe)? Any needed?
(Apart from PDI, mirrors, shaker and lit side rails which I already have)
My choice was:
- Mirror blades. Really look great on this specific game.
- Mini-LCD bevel by Laseriffic
- Signature plate protector (if you have an LE)
- Silent Fan for power supply, the original one is super loud even in attract mode and unsuitable for living room location.
- Mystery hole illumination by MezelMods
- Force target illumination by MezelMods
- Also I am having a custom dust cover made from the left side of the "Under a dark moon" wall tapestry (51" x 60") from Society 6
Currently, still considering the Star Wars Armada Star destroyer, but not sure on that one yet. I think the pin is great as is and really requires a lot of attention to the original design and only very careful touch up. Overloading it with a bunch of designwise unharmonized toys from different vendors might be fun to DO, but is not an improvement IMHO.
My 2 cents.
Quoted from Camvr2013:Just picked up this little guy at a Toys R Us Closing Sale for $27. He makes a nice little topper for now!
I think the head alone would look better
Quoted from Dirtnap73:Does anyone have any idea of an adjustment that can be made to center the trajectory of the ball when it auto launches?
I had the exact same problem. It can be adjusted, but it's tricky and a super delicate one.
1. The gate itself, which has the laser print on it needs to be in a perfect 90 degree angle, so it is perfectly snug against the rod it is mounted on. This is the easier part, because you loosen one screw, check I'd the gate has a nice sharp 90 degree angle and attach it again. That alone want enough for me.
2. The gate is built like a flipper, which opens when activated. The goal is for it to be open enough to catch the ball in the outlane, but NOT all the way to touch the plastic. When open too far, the back part sticks into the shooter lane so much block the plunge.
The adjustment can be made with the assembly under the play field. Loosen the screw holding the rotating rod and gate. Remove it. Since the required adjustment is really small remove the edge on the tip of the screw which tightens against the rod. Although there for a purpose, it needs to go, because once that screw has been tightened too much (like they do at factory) it digs into the rod and creates a dip into which it will settle over and over again, making small adjustments impossible.
With that done tighten the screw with the gate inserted, so the gate will open just enough to catch the ball reliably, but not more. Adjust the rubber screw underneath to make sure the gate has the correct resting position.
It's an aggravating process, because you're working while everything is under the tension of the spring and it's so super delicate. I myself must have loosened and tightened about 15 times, before it was right, but at the end I have winemaster that problem. It will be easier with a new rod that doesn't have the mark from the screw, but also with the one you have it will be fine. Just be patient and it will work.
Quoted from Wildbill327:I would enjoy a new video mode with a speeder bike going through the forest racing to catch other speeders before they get away, Maybe use the lock bar button for shooting them down.
There's a lot of this type of inspiration in the old school C64 and Amiga star wars games.
Quoted from kermit24:Dwight has said there will not be another video mode.
On which occasion?
Quoted from TheLaw:There are 6 days...plenty of time.
The amount of completion already makes me think it wouldn't be a big update anyway; but you never know.
I emailed pinballlife today, to see what their take is on it and promptly received this reply from them:
"Hi Julian,
as long you are installing it in a SPIKE or SPIKE 2 game with the latest game code the kits are 100% good to go. SPIKE and SPIKE 2 machines do NOT use the grounding capacitor so your shaker units should not have them.
Best Regards,
Terry"
So all is well with pinballlife shakers. Anyway, I haven't experienced any issues whatsoever since I had installed it right after receiving the pin.
Quoted from zacaj:You know, even more than any rule fixes or something, it'd be really nice if the supposedly '1.0' code at least had rules text that matched the rules.
Talking of rules - does stern usually update the manuals to match the code changes?
Quoted from flashburn:Stern just confirmed on their Instagram that a code update will be out for May 4th, like many suspected. Can't wait! Maybe it'll be more substantial than a lot of us thought.
Here is the post:
Quoted from cooked71:This game really needs a cantina mode (complete with music).
Edit: unless I’m missing one?
CANTINA would be PERFECT MIDNIGHT MADNESS !!!
Just basically interrupting whatever is going on and go nuts !!!
Quoted from flashburn:..., so we know one is coming soon.
We don't know. We assume. ASS-U-ME.
Quoted from zacaj:Isn't that what midnight madness was before they removed it?
What a shame... why was it removed? I heard about it having been removed, but wasn't aware of what it had been and why they removed it.
I make an ass of myself occasionally. My assumption that stern would deliver in April is definitely one of those, so I'm fully including myself into that statement.
My apologies if that wasn't clear.
Hey guys, I am having a polished metal laser engraved instruction card made to match the signature plate of the LE version and am looking for people to join in in order to reach the minimum batch size of 20. I made an ad for this here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/63778
It’s only my cost I am asking for. No commercial intent.
Quoted from francky93:Just a change, i have turn the side to expulse the air from the power supply, like this the origin fan stay « off »
Check out this lovely 3d printed part off ebay in combination with a 6cm fan 
I had this designed together with the seller especially for this mod. A much cleaner solution to my opinion. He will ship globally.
Quoted from francky93:Ouah cool, but it is 40 to 60mm, my fan is 80mm
The guy will mak whatever you ask him to. Just talk to him. He'll send you a drawing within a day and you'Re good to go. I decided against 80mm fan because it throws a shadow on the translite. The 60mm is just small enough to not have that problem.
Quoted from fosaisu:Nice! Do you have a link to the fan you used as well?
I used Noiseblocker PR-1 and a 3pin to 2 pin adaptor cable to connect to the header inside the PSU
http://www.blacknoise.com/site/de/produkte/noiseblocker-it-luefter/nb-blacksilent-pro-series/60x60x25mm.php
https://www.amazon.de/Wentronic-Adapterkabel-3-polig-Stecker-Kupplung/dp/B003D6O53Q/
The fan was selected based on the spec of the original fan in the GERMAN PSU, a 04020VA-12P-BA.
http://www.nmbtc.com/fans/part-numbers/DC-Axial-40mm/1608VL-04W-B60-B00/6147
With different PSU versions you need to check for the spec of the original fan installed, in order to reach the same flow.
I did disconnect the internal fan to place the 3-2 adaptor on the original pin header inside the PSU and threaded the cable out through the opening of the PSU.
Before doing the mod I also did measurements of the fan coming on with the sound recorder. Attached a photo of the measurement. A cold machine starts the fan up at about 21 mins after power-up and then every 8 mins for 640seconds. When it's already warm it will begin the first cycle 4 minutes later.
After installation of the mod I recomfirmed that the new fan is working. It comes on at the same time as the original, but runs longer. When it comes on it seems to "stutter" a bit, butI think it just reacts to smaller currents beofre actually coming on. It does come on reliably and has no issues with long evenings of intense playing. No measurement there though, as it'S impossible to record.
Quoted from francky93:Yes, he send me the link for the 40mm to 80mm adaptor
ebay.com link
The guy is really engaged. I'm sure he would print anything you want, if you can explain it to him or send a file. Anyway. Enjoy the mod and post a photo when it's done
I write a lengthy post on it but won't write it again :b
You can find it searching for my posts. Of you have any additional questions about it, fell free to drop me a private message.
Quoted from pauloz:Lose the arm and you will stop getting frustrated with it.
No offense, but that is complete nonsense. If I wasn’t so far away I would come and adjust it for you. Any way I can help remotely?
BTW can I interest you in the metal laser engraved instruction card to match the signature plate? Already have another reservation from OZ and could combine shipping.
Quoted from yzfguy:Where is this card available? Sounds cool.
Here
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/63778
Currently I have 10 reservations for the laser engraved metal instruction card. Need 20 to make it happen.
Just in case somebody is interested how to attach the STAR WARS ARMADA Destroyer:
1. Cut two groves across the plastic mounting backet of the ship matching your wire's diameter in width.
2. Drill a hole into the ship with a 3mm drill in between the two groves
3. Bend a wire to a "U" and lay into groves
4. Screw down a washer over the wireform with a small screw
Enjoy your Star Wars Armada destroyer
If it's high enough, it's not a problem. I checked different locations, but placing it high enough solves the visibility issue no matter where you place it.
Quoted from francky93:My Star Wars cooling is now finish
Awesome - now we have two options: 60mm and 80mm.
Can you post the link to the eBay item, please?
Quoted from John_I:That 80mm fan doesn't car a shadow on the translite?
When I was investigating which one to use I found the 80mm one to cast a shadow and decided for the 60mm one...
Small "bug" report on 1.03 on my LE: Callouts for the planet champions and light saber duel champion exist, but video mode champion and bonus champion is not called out. not quite sure about the others.
It downloaded fine for me. What type of help do you need? Is your internet connection stable?
BTW last chance to join for the laser engraved laser cut metal instruction card EUR 30. I am now collecting payments and will order as soon as all are received. Intl. shipping EUR 6.20.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/63778
I am NOT earning on this. It's posted in order to reach minimum order quantities.
My bash button started squeaking. Are there any upgraded versions of it, which don't end up like that after a few hundred tie fighters shot?
Quoted from speederice:Are people frequently experiencing the "dead flipper on mission select" bug with the new code update? As an operator, I am hesitant to update to 1.0.3 if this is a frequent problem, since I know the bug was pretty much fixed in the last revision.
I reported it to Chaz - he will forward it to the software guys.
Thanks also for the silicone spray tip. I'll maybe try this as a temporary fix. An upgraded button from alloy might be a good mod to make.
Quoted from JoshODBrown:Anybody have a similar issue and resolve it with a change like this? Anything else I should look at before i start adjusting guides?
Are you using a playfield protector?
I have the exact same problem, BUT it doesn't occur right after I freshly waxed my playfield protector. After a while the issue is back though.
I think the increased friction of the protector causes sideways spin on the ball, which the alters its trajectory accordingly - towards the center. A freshly waxed protector has less of the problem because it's more slippery.
That said - problem confirmed, but no solution, except for waxing frequently.
Unfortunately in a freshly waxed state my mystery hole is unstoppably stdm...
Beautiful, even when switched off - with a custom magnetic dust cover
IMG_20180519_121343 (resized).jpg
BTW Still accepting orders for the laser engraved polished metal instruction card until the last two pre-registrations send the deposit (expected this weekend)
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/63778
Quoted from Rob_G:It's too bad none of the missions use the pops
Never thought about that, but true. It would be a nice one to have, too.
Quoted from pinballpaully:Can you explain what type of aluminum rod, how to cut and where to mount it? Thank you for that info!
For the star destroyer I posted a photo how to some posts before
Quoted from Hoochoo:Below are all the shots needed to complete each mission for every character
Is this for Premium/LE or for PRO ?
Or is there no difference for the shots?
Quoted from Crile1:There is a metal clip of some sort screwed into the cabinet sides about 1/3 from the front of the cabinet. There is nothing connected to it. Have no idea what it is for.
It's there to center the playfield in the cab. Must be removed to make space for the mirror blades. To me those things initially looked like clamps to hold the blades, but that was a stupid thought as I learned the hard way. But... installing blades OVER them without noticing that that MIGHT be an issue... ...now I don't feel that bad anymore :b
Installed the modified shooter rod today. It is an original shooter rod with the empirial logo on a contoured inlay. Blends perfectly with the machines colors and shapes. A very skilled friend of mine made a few of this mod for us in a rather nitty gritty precision effort using his access to some quite eleborate mills.
We still have raw material for about 8-10 more left (depending on how many parts we ruin in the process). If anyone is interested we could make a few more from the matrial we have left and let them go for USD 135. US and EU only. Please PM if interested.
Quoted from TheLaw:Game loves inventing shit to screw me. Up around 4 bills with 2 balls left and phantom slam tilt.
This was adressed by a Security Bulletion by Stern. Its caused by electrical noise from the shaker. Stern supplies a capacitor kit (plug and play) to fix this. If you have a shaker motor this might be your solution.
Attached is a photo of a second of the stainless steel polished and laser engraved instruction card I had made. It has a small flaw in the print at the bottom center. Two of these were added to my order for free, it seems the supplier figured he doesn't need them either
I am willing to let them go for EUR 30 plus shipping from Germany (EUR 4 registered domestic or EUR 6,20 registered international). If anyone would like to have this, please send me a PM.
The ones with the card installed is just an example of what it looks like in the machine. That one is not for sale
IMG-20180616-WA0000 (resized).jpgIMG-20180616-WA0002 (resized).jpgIMG_20180616_144959 (resized).jpgQuoted from Bartzenegger:Hi guys I’m almost in the club. Should have a le Friday ! My question is where can I find the current rules ?
To my understanding the only way to understand them as it currently stands is learning by doing or reading this thread, because the current version hasn't been documented yet...
Quoted from fosaisu:Are the two aluminum cards a different "shade" or is that just the lighting?
The left one is stainless steel. It really shows in the photo, but in reality you hardly notice, unless you look for it.
Sounds really interesting - do you have a link for the article? ON the website I can only find the art blades for INSIDE the cabinet...
Quoted from finnflash:My right flipper tends to stick in the up position sometimes and not sure why. Sometimes the only way to get it to fall back into place is by hitting the left flipper. Has anyone had this issue also, or know how to fix this?
Likely the plunger gets stuck. Check the mech for resistance
Quoted from stpcore:We did a podcast interview with Dwight Sullivan (code on Star Wars) in episode three.
Awesome, thank you
Quoted from dnapac:One of the green leds on the deathstar went out today.
When I destroy the death star I usually complete the job and don't stop after one LED... :b
Quoted from Eskaybee:Has anyone made this adjustment with success? If so do they want to share their secrets for adjustment? Mine seems flush but maybe not? I dunno...
Honestly I am having the same issue quite frequently. My post is as flush as it gets, but the issue persists. I'd also like to understand how flushness translates into quicker rising of the post...
Quoted from Oneangrymo:I tried adjusting those posts but I got scared I would scratch the playfield..they are hard to get at!
Uhm... No they're not. Rate the Mayfield and loosen the nut on the underside. Gently tap them out from below. Re insert into the lower hole, replace but, tighten, done.
The tricky part is that the clear coat might have run into and narrowed the lower hole. Use a wood drill with your hand (not a machine) and gently rotate it and remove the excess clear. It takes patience that's all. No force.
Quoted from monte_:My escape gate is not working properly
How about a detailed description of what the problem is...?
Two possibilities:
1. The gate rod is tight against the play field and cannot move freely
Or
2. When you re tightened the screw last tinge you did so with not enough spring tension on the gate, so there's not enough force to close the gate at once.
Fixing that is rather easy, theoretically, BUT doing it at the right spring tension requires patience, multiple attempts and the right attitude to get right. This is because you need to hold the gate against the spring force while OPEN, in the right way that it will be in the right spot when closed, and at the same time at the right distance to the play field. It's aggravatingly annoying because you need to look at both sides of the play field at the same time and need three hands to hold everything still and a forth to tighten the screw while doing it. That's why a bunch of people here have given up. One dude even removed the gate altogether, lol.
Quoted from pauloz:Yep, and I haven't had a problem with it since.
Man, if I were on your continent, I'd come and fix it for you! This brings me close to tears :b
Quoted from monte_:I went today to fix the escape gate and now it is working fine.
Thumbs up!
One thing that came to my mind just now. It would be cool to have a mode that intentionally utilizes that strobe effect to make it hard for you to see the ball. Not slow like in boba fett escape but fast to really give you that super terrible stop-motion.
Anyway. Just a thought.
Quoted from zacaj:Your eyes are amazing...
It's also a bit of a curse. I had to stop video gaming as a teenager because no matter how expensive hardware I used, I would still see my games stutter... Sucked. Analogue pinball luckily can't do that
Quoted from Psw757:hoth 1 was a normal mode
One engaging the bumpers. We don't have any that do, currently.
Quoted from ChipScott:This. Is. The shit. Yes, yes, yes!
Well ain't I glad I just ordered mine (although 10") yesterday
Well, honestly I'm not so crazed about topers. Would have gotten this one just for the sake to have a "maxed out" SWLE. However, now MonsterBAsh Remake has been anounced and I am working hard on figuring out how to pay for it. So much for the topper. It's almost ten percent of the MBr actual machine or about 15 percent of a then downpriced original...
Quoted from dnapac:My soldering iron is a basic 30 watt from Radio Shack...this is the one I use on other jobs on my pins, but is this ok for board work? I’m such a hack with soldering.
If you're not comfortable find someone to do it for you. And while you're at it have them fix the second board by replacing the LED too. Theres a bunch of people, who do this all the time, and there are also LEDs to be bough everywhere.
Steve Ritchie clearly stated in one of his interviews "Do not do anything else tahn 6.5. Thats what it's designed for and thats how it will work." I stuck to this and with a real perfect shot I can backhand into the deathstar... ...barely.
My left flipper is still fine but shows more wear than the right. Also had the golden flakes in the cabinet. What exactly causes the golden flakes?
Does someone still have historic game code 0.92 , 0.91 and prior to 0.89? If so please make it accessible to me somhow
Quoted from Brijam:I’m pretty sure I have backups somewhere. Drop me a PM and I’ll hook you up.
Sorry for my unspecific request. I forgot to mention I am looking for Premium/LE game code.
Quoted from brooklynknight:Has the stock speakers gotten better?
I got a good deal on the 10 inch flipper fidelity set and installed it without expectations. It really surprised me to hear a lot more detail in the lower pitch which really improves the overall experience with the game. So many sound assestts that benefit from it.
Quoted from pinwaz:DE SW is heaps more fun to play since code update http://www.pinballcode.com/downloads/
New rules and scoring are cool http://www.pinballcode.com/guides/
wrong thread, guys
Quoted from Da-Shaker:Anybody else have a problem with no power to the fork ramp
What software version is it? I remember the earlier code 0.92 would occasionally fry fork ramp motors. It was pulled and soon after replaced with a bugfix. Affected owners received replacement motors.
Quoted from yzfguy:I looked around at ways to paint it to "weather" it similar to the look on the stock toys, and its actually really easy.
How did you achieve it in the end? What did you do exactly? Looks really like stock, so would be very interested in the technique.
Quoted from Da-Shaker:Is the ball supposed to travel around the loop shot and hit the back of the fork ramp
Yes.
The post is to prevent it from bouncing back and coming back out of the loop the way it went in.
Quoted from TheFamilyArcade:Got 16B on factory but ...
Quoted from ktownhero:Holy humble brag Batman!!!
agree. a great score but a pathetic inferiority complex, judging be the post. unfortunately for reasonable people the latter outweighs the first.
Quoted from TKDalumni:still not sure how to start it,
Been stuck with everything finished in exactly that situation. Sucked massively. Lost two balls trying to start it and failed. Don't know how to trigger the white arrows in order to shoot for them...
Han is my solution as well. I start boba fett as the first thing on ball one and if I don't complete it on the first ball I don't even continue the game and restart.
If anyone can explain how to get those white arrows to light up I'd appreciate it a lot
Quoted from zacaj:Anyone know how many white arrows you need to start Boba Fett?
To my knowledge 4.
Quoted from Hoochoo:Since this is currently my only machine it gets a lot of love.
That's pretty much the main scenario to bring out the true depth of this machine. For me it's the same (Apart from owning a getaway that I keep for nostalgic and never play):
- Home use pin
- Only pin
Like that you actually immerse enough to see what a masterpiece this machine is. In any other situation I totally understand people discarding the machine as confusing or otherwise underwhelming. It's definitely not for casual playing and only unfolds itself to those willing to get into it. That's how it also maintains the challenge. Anyway, this thing is ridiculously awesome
Quoted from Ch4p3l:Took a few pictures
Just in case, so you have the recent code 1.05?
Jjp potc and sw are so different. Hard to compare.
My swle is the best thing ever. Ever. Ever. I go to places with hundred or more pins regularly and end up playing Star Wars there as well.
It's ridiculous. I've owned it since it first came out and can't get get myself to liking anything else.
It's holding up well and continues to challenge. Plus it's hard. So I end up putting high scores on anything else I touch almost instantly
Whatever motivation or plan you have, after buying SW, trust me that plan will be replaced by one where you keep Star Wars. Imho.
You guys should try to understand that 'Dwight' is a team of people. He's the lead. He designed and coded the major stuff. This type of cleanup has nothing to do with him. He's way too expensive and precious a resource to go bug hunting. It's only stern priorization and cleanup team assignments from here on out.
Quoted from VillaThrills:Goodbye white T-molding.
Thanks for posting it. It's a huge reassurance for me leaving the white in
And I heard the stern one is stronger than the pinball life one. I have the pl one and really like it.
Quoted from duke1234:7.0 pitch
Make it 6.5. That's what it was designed for. At higher pitch the drain issue won't be the only one.
Quoted from Jgaltr56:Anyone know where to get the clear plastic over the right ramp on a Premium/LE.
It's a design flaw and breaks frequently. Pinball universe in Germany has a replacement (a bit thicker, too) , but it's not listed in the shop. Email them and they will respond with a fair price and very fair shipping.
Quoted from Banker:Stern sent me a new one as well
Thing is that the original is to thin. So that's not really fixing anything it's good to have an original on hand tho, for when you want to sell. Which for me is gong to be... Never.
Quoted from zaphX:I don’t know if this is just the shaker I purchased (official Stern part btw) or just the way Star Wars uses it.
It's the Stern shaker. They pinball life one is less violent.
Quoted from Mnluz:Anybody has the design to cut a airball protector for the premium ? Cant find where to buy and thinking about cutting one. Mezel mods does not have it in stock
Oh, by the way, can someone tell me how to switch my game on? I'm totally confused and don't know what to do and I'm to lazy to read this thread...
Quoted from yzfguy:Pretty sure he's being sarcastic and suggesting that people are asking questions easily answered by opening the manual.
Quoted from Rum-Z:Hahaha, I was wondering, but around here, who knows?
My apologies - it was too tempting after the 100th lazy request for having the multipliers explained....
Quoted from Wildbill327:Please show us some pictures of your mod.
I remember somebody glueing a small rubber thingy into the horseshoe to divert the ball...
Quoted from JoshODBrown:However, there are a couple other flipper button combinations you can do in attract mode that are sort of Easter eggs. You can google them easy enough, and I am sure they are buried in this thread somewhere as well.
In case you know them, it would be cool to share. The only one I know is deadflip's code.
"L&R L-L-L-L R L-L-L-L-L R L R-R"
Quoted from PlayPin:I think its a hugely under appreciated game.
It is, because you actually have to get into it. Since I'm not looking to sell it and can't imagine that will change, I'm happy about the drop though because it means prices will drop and more people will be able to have one and discover it
Quoted from woodmedic:Not sure what I need to adjust but wanted to know where it was designed to drop the ball to. I am going to guess that it should be to the left flipper.
left slingshot on mine. but barely. i sometimes hits hard enough to trigger it, sometmes not. it'S managemable though
Does anyone think we can do this to a SW?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/converting-taf-flippers-from-leaf-switch-to-optical-boards
I actually think it can be done, if the opto boards get their power and +12V from an external power supply or somehow directly from the main psu. Ultimately, once opwered the optos do nthing but close and opena switch, so it should work...
Opinion anyone?
Quoted from tktlwyr:Is there a reaso why would you want to do this?
Yes, to have consistent sring force on the flipper buttons - but that that's not really what I wanted to discuss here I'm more interested in the HOW.
Quoted from Agent_Hero:. I recall reading about key adjustments to make to prevent ball releases from immediately draining between the flippers, but I have no idea which page it was.
That was partially from me after a convo with Steve Ritchie.
Quoted from x-out:#3 right orbit exits left orbit and SDTM
Check if there is a bit on the lane guide. Even if you can fell it only with your finger nail, it can bump the ball.
For the other two make sure the ball doesn't touch the right Jedi target upon launch. It did that with mine for a while and resulted in the same behaviour as you describe
Added over 5 years ago:Bit was supposed to mean burr. Sorry for this, I'm getting super annoyed with autocorrect on my phone...
Quoted from x-out:still need to figure out why the auto plunge is acting strange. sometimes it will touch the banks, but doesn't register a skill shot. other times it will launch long towards the left ramp or the tie fighter. there is also the occasional weak launch from the lane/gate that dribbles out into the center of the play field.
Can you please video that, upload to YouTube and post a link?
Quoted from x-out:i'll have to check the rail for any oddities that might be causing the ball to redirect to the center like that.
The very end on the right guide gets hit by the ball from below often. That creates a deformation of the lane guide. You can hear it as a minor 'click' when the ball rolls past the end of the guide. You also feel it with your fingernail. File it of and it solved the issue.
Steve Ritchie told me this, when I asked him about his understanding of where the shots should be returned to.
These is a free Version of a star wars John Williams remix out there. Pm me for details.
@PinballMIX: how do you deal with game code updates? I understand each game code revision needs a special mix... ?
Quoted from fosaisu:If he’s making custom mixes for people at their request, I don’t have a problem with him charging for them.
I agree. The question is how much. As a matter of fact loading these files into the code with pinball browser isn't really a big thing.
What needs to be done is:
1. Identify which modified sounds and songs you want at what part of the game
2. create an image of the original SD card in the machine with win32diskimager(dont use the code image from the stern website)
3. Open PinballBrowser, load that image and find those original sounds you want to replace. This is a bit of wrk, because some audio assetts are used multiple times. Not the songs tho, at least in star wars.
4. use AUDACITY to create the replacement songs later to be uploaded into the code. They need to be exact length as the originals and match in sampling rate etc.
5. replace assetts in the SD image with pinball browser and save it
6. buy a new SD card and write the image to that SD usinf win32diskimager.
7. replace original SD in the game with your modded one.
8. save the original SD for game code update purposes, described below.
When needing to do a game code update, insert the original SD back and perform the update. then create modded SD again, as described above.
All of this takes about 2-3h, if done for the first time. the time consumer is step 3. if you go crazy and do fancy edits, also 4 will take time. if you document, which original assetts need to be replaced, the update will be MUCH faster - maybe 30 mins, if you have the assetts ready.
if you do a different mix for the same machine, it will only be the editing of the customers songs and sounds, but the process of replacing the files will be rather quick.
all that said, good editing is worth paying for. replacing the files, however, well ... i guess that depends on how unwilling or unable you are to do the steps described above.
Quoted from Jediturtle:At least give the standard 6.5 a shot, and increase up for 7 or so to see how it feels.
It was designed for 6.5, nothing more nothing less.
Quoted from zacaj:I've never been able to see any effect from hitting them
Me neither, but thinking about it - maybe they increase the time you have to bash that button...?
Quoted from ChipScott:Just wanted to share the pics.
Can I please are that in bright daylight?
Quoted from ChipScott:that's my preference in the game room.
I'm not questioning your choice of lighting. I'm asking for a photo in daylight, so I can see what you are trying to show and make a choice whether I want to order that as well
Quoted from Toasterdog:So I'm going to take a cue from this threat and relocate my lockdown bar button.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/anyone-drill-bk3000-to-properly-add-magnasave-button
Unfortunately nobody really has done anything so I guess I'll be the first to document the relocation. I ordered a lockdown bar with no button hole and receiver. I plan to relocate the button below the right flipper button (preferably a little forward of and below)
I have no problem drilling a hole in the cabinet it just has to look factory. I like this game too much to be handicapped by the location of that button.
That's the dumbest idea ever. Steve Ritchie himself said he wanted the player to need to make that risk vs reward choice. Relocating the button is a great way to mess up the game.
Quoted from Toasterdog:Did he say that?
Yupp. In one of the interviews. I remember hearing that, but can't recall which one. I did download them all, so I 'could' look it up...
Quoted from goldmaes:Does anyone else find this happens?
I discussed this with Steve Ritche as one of my main concerns with the design. That shot is designed to come to the right flipper. The problem is often the following:
The Orbit lane guide gets hit from below frequently when missing the JEDI target placed at its end. That flattens the face of it and bends metal outwards, creating a burr. This little burr sticks out and bumps the ball coming from the orbit forcing it towards the left.
I thought he was shitting me, because it is such a SMALL thing. I couldn't believe this could actually have an impact. but it does.
How to solve:
Take off the glass and listen carefully for a "click" as the ball rolls past the end of the guide. Also run your fingernail along the place to feel for the burr. its ridiculously MINOR. Remove it with a file - it's not supposed to be there. Probem solved.
Quoted from goldmaes:Thanks so much. I'll give it a shot this weekend!
Let me know if this was the issue for you as well, after you get around to it
Quoted from ZMeny:Contact your distributor for a walkthrough. If you don’t have any luck with that, contact me at Flip N Out Pinball.
If this walkthrough is useful and more to that different from "how to adjust the lane guide", it would very much like to know about this as well. Can it be written in brief?
As an LE woner I enjoy the family growing, but this is going too much into the toddler-style lego star wars direction, for me to be sad to not have one of them. I'm happy with the LE as it is, but now I'm hoping for two things again:
1. Topper
2. Code Update
Quoted from John_I:There is no hole in my Premium?
Been clarified in this thread multiple times.
Guys, the Premium is designed without that post. Modifying it to your liking is your right as a owner, but its not how it was meant to be. Ask the designer. He's made the point and many other (pitch 6.5 i.e.) multiple times in interviews, on the forum and on facebook. If you can't deal with the frustration of playing the game as it was meant to be you might aswell close the outlanes alltogether and feel great about the inevitable highscores.
Everyone can do what he or she wants with his or her property, but unless you are doing this for your three year old, as a means to motivate him into eventually playing normal difficulty, any custom modification to ease the game that are beyond the design are and will always be cheating. Any score coming from it is a non-achievement.
I disrepect none of you as people, but this whole "how to cheat" post nonsense doesn't make you look all that great - and that doesn't change, just because you are here in numbers.
Aynway we're all here to have fun and share our opinions. This one is mine, sorry.
Quoted from GamerRick:Thanks sorry for the dumb question but open up the vertical clearance how?
Enter "gate problem" into the "find in this topic" search field. it is explained in detail multiple times
This is, what Adaminski asked:
Quoted from Adaminski:I want to get Stern inner art blades for my LE. I like them better than mirror blades (for now, I think) or aftermarket space scenes.
What a brilliant opportunity to post what "I" find best, despite it being explicitly what was NOT asked for.
Quoted from D-Gottlieb:I bought the Pingraffix blades.
Quoted from Jarbyjibbo:Agreed, I went that route instead as well.
Quoted from Thunderbird:So did I
Quoted from mollyspub:I have a set of mirror blades
Anyone not full of themselves and their super brilliant better choices and actually willing to help Adaminski out?
There is a free John Williams Remix around that I used to have. I know a few users here have it also. No need to pay pinballmix for this.
Quoted from VillaThrills:under cabinet lighting
where did you buy that? looks like an addition i might be interested in.
Quoted from mbrave77:hardest shots for me when I need it is right ramp and the left orbit.
Both are easiest when backhanded.
Quoted from mollyspub:Cant seem to find plastic protectors for my pro. Any ideas?
http://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_96&products_id=646
Quoted from manadams:Mine does the same thing and have not researched a fix other than removing the gate altogether.
File down the gate edge in a 45° angle to match to other side. Worked for me. Additonally the ball sometimes hits the jedi target at the edge of the shooter lane exit. MAke sure it is adjusted to not be in the way.
Quoted from RockfordReplay:It does look great. Nice color choices.
I personally think it wahses out the contrast on the Playfield. To my opinion the bright whites really set the scene for the other colors. Especially the FORCE-area suffers from being dulled down. More to that on the photo above the pink doesnt match. I'm glad you all like it, tho. That's what is great about pinball - everyone gets to do or not do whatever he or she wants
Quoted from PinMonk:I wasn't super-sure I'd want the character inserts colored, but once I did it, I wouldn't go back. Also, the Leia one is more purple in real life. It photographs pinkish.
The FORCE bracket is designed to complement the playfield art with the dark to light shades of blue transition. So is the duotone lightsaber duel insert, with blue on the bottom side matching the playfield that transitions to red on the top side that flows into the red lightsaber on the playfield.
Stern LED whites drive me crazy on pinball machines because they're just too bright in a dark room, so the biggest benefit for me is cutting that glare a little with the light filters. Ghostbusters was WAY worse in that regard, but STAR WARS has some of that, too.
Dude, responding defensively to all postings about your stuff makes you seem desperate.
Quoted from BaggerVance:the Death Star shot is so frustrating
Baloney. Is a right shot but not frustrating it's actually THE shot in the game.
Quoted from Alamo_Pin:Just unboxed my premium
Is that ghosting on the arrow with the X right in front?
Quoted from PinMonk:Play Midnight Madness before you update the code
Asmuch as it suckstonothave MM. So NOT playbeodreupdating. the early Software versions, had fried some node boards...
@sirlonzelot: Ball jumping is not fixable. It is the result of the rotation of the ball when going around the orbit fast. This rotation "bites" into the flipper rubbers and basically lifts the ball over them.
The death star shot isvery difficult and even when adjusted well doesnt always make it. You can consider it set coirrectly if the ball makes it into the death star about 50% of the time when cleanlybackhanding it from the left flipper.
Pitch MUST MUST MUST be 6.5 and nothing else. I had a personal communication with Steve Ritchie in which he clearly stated that this is what is was designed for and NOTHING else.
Quoted from sirlonzelot:Ok , i set it to 6,5 and deinstall the superbands. Now it’s much better. Thanks.
I have super rings on the machine everywhere but the flippers, there I have silicone, which works well.
If you get crazy return from the lanes that don't make sense, please search my posts here, I had posted Steve Ritchie's clear statement on which shot should be returned where some time ago.
Quoted from sirlonzelot:Are the Star Wars LE side rails illumination kit somewhere Available ? Robert seems out of stock
There were two types. One vendor had slightly pinkish ones, the other were plain bright white. Dont remember who sold the forst, but the second were the pingraffx ones. I tried contacting him as well, but he didnt make them anymore. IF you want to collect people interested and see if you can get him to make a second run, I would be in, if it is plain white while off.
Most of the time the pin is pff anyway, so that is REALLY important.
Also a self build would be interesting, if you can find white white foil. MAybe pingraffx would tell you which they got? small segments are OK IMHO, because they can be placed in a way to have the segment edges covered by the sidrail-sections that are solid.
Quoted from wolffcub:Did a little clicking in solidworks and this popped out.
Can you please share the files on thingiverse or somewhere? For my LE I'd love to get this printed on this side of the world
Quoted from freddy:Helo sharing is caring !
I just requested a quote from a Plastic processor to laser cut heat resistant foam in this shape. By chance the plastic processor has a huge thing for pinball and understands exactly what it is for... One way or another this will be the cheaper solution, so once it's done I'll update here and potentially organize a collective order or something.
In case I do get my hands on the file he uses to make them, I am going to share it free of charge.
Quoted from wolffcub:I will post the .stl file up later today. If some don't have access to a 3d printer i can possibly print out a set and ship them for a reasonable price.
Thank you
Quoted from wolffcub:I see that places like Marco sell side blade art
In case it doesn't work you could give mirror blades a thought. They are generally overused but go ridiculously well on this machine.
Quoted from wolffcub:I will be putting all these together as a kit
Can you PLEASE upload this somewhere or alternatively say if you won't. Both is fair game, but at this point there are people waiting for the files based on your previous statement and it would be really nice to know if to wait for it or write it off.
Quoted from wolffcub:Tomorrow I will see what The average shipping costs are to send to the US and Canada and I will make an official post.
What about Europe?
Quoted from Pinstein:Im about to add a center post on my LE. Has anyone else done that?
Go for it. The more screwed-up LE's are out the more more mine is worth, relatively speaking. Excuse the sarcasm.
Quoted from Pinstein:Getting a post save really makes me feel like the force is with me. Down votes can only come from the dark side.
it's off to the right.
Quoted from coloradodan:Newb question: Where is the memory card at?
Topp of the only pcb in the backbox
I have created the original John Williams mix for PREM/LE 1.10 based on the one from 1.05 I had.
Unfortunately I cannot share this due to the copyrights on the music. However, if you have the previous version of 1.05, you can do this too:
1. insert your 1.05 john williams SD card into computer and extract relevant sound assetts from the image. save them with unique naming that allows you to know which is which.
2. insert your ORIGINAL SD card into pinball machine
3. update to 1.10
4. remove original card from pinball machine and create an image of it in pinball browser 7.70
5. replace the sound assetts in that image file with the ones saved in step one.
6. write the image to ANOTHER SD card (min size 8 GB) to obtain your modded v1.10 SD Card
7. insert the modded v1.10 SD Card into pinball
8. store your ORIGINAL Card away safely for the next update.
Attention: you MUST use pinball browser v7.70 or newer to be able to handle SW firmware 1.10
the assets can be identified by their exact duration. a screenshot attached.
Sound Assett list for SW (resized).pngQuoted from SWfan:Please look at the ratings for Star Wars Comic Art (Premium) and change the default to see all ratings (instead of only ratings with comments) and flag all of these super-low ratings as bogus so they aren’t counted
Please don't contribute to polarization. There is enough 'us against them' everywhere already.
Be the bigger man and let it go already.
Quoted from RPZ:Also messaged them and nothing. I mentioned to them that there seems to be lots of people who are interested in buying it if they made them again! I know I want one!!!
Quoted from KLR2014:I’m looking for the Star Wars LE Pinball Armor Illumination Kit from pingraffix. Anyone who sells a set ? Pingraffix doesnt reply to email or chat.
Lets make a list and then approach them together. Could have more impact.
1. KLR2014
2. RPZ
3. @sprudeldudel
4. ...
Quoted from Schwaggs:You could also approach Robert
Those are pinkish when off. Pingraffx are pure white. That's The catch... And no pink rails on my SWLE ...
Quoted from Crispy77:Why do I rarely get victory multiball?
Because you rarely win the planet multiballs. :b
Quoted from Pinchild:Anyone know how or where to get this?
Quoted from nicoy3k:What’s the intended behavior of the ball off the scoop?
Quoted from Jerickso77:I think is suposed to dead bounce off the left flipper onto the right.
This is what Steve Ritchie told me on facebook, when I asked about intentions for shot returns:
"Since there are 2 orbits shots, I'm going to assume you mean the small orbit which we call the loop shot. A ball shot clockwise should go to the right flipper.
If you meant the large orbit, the ball should also go to the right flipper.
The Mystery kick out should go to the left flipper, BUT if the ball is reliably going to the right flipper, I wouldn't mess with it! [...]"
Quoted from Second2Noone:Thanks in advance for your help?
Is this the backside and the other side still has the protective plastic on it ??
Quoted from Pauz21:questions as I try to dial this in
Search for my posts here. I posted what Steve ritchie told me over Facebook.
Quoted from mbrave77:What is needed to get to the emperor?
Been posted multiple times.
Quoted from mbrave77:Lastly, would love to find a topper for this game at a reasonable price if they are still out there. Or if another run is coming
No and no. Limited to 500.
Quoted from LeMansFan:There are six balls in the game, in what instances are there ever all six balls in play at the same time?
Victory Multiball.
Quoted from D-Gottlieb:If you notice, Twister has guards over the inlane plastics to prevent balls going over. Shouldn't be too hard to install these.
Unfortunately with sw, the ball goes over the flippers more than those inlane guides. The plastics would need to be elongated to protrude over the flippers to do the job.
Quoted from tilt-master:I had the ball go over the inlane guide plenty of times
At which position? For me it only jumped over the flippers when coming from the orbit clockwise, basically due to the fast rotation of the ball biting into the rubber and lifting it. How do you get the ball into the inlanes that fast?
Quoted from D-Gottlieb:One can certainly make a flipper "topper".
So you think a two foot millennium falcon would work? :b
Or maybe one foot per flipper? ...
Quoted from P1nhead:Any reason these wouldn't work on a pro?
? ... The pro doesn't have the LEs side rails ... ?
Quoted from P1nhead:It's quite clear that I thought these were side armor, not just an EL kit - the fact they are not was already pointed out four posts above.
? ... but thanks for all your help ... ?
Didn't see that.
Quoted from frood1168:Question I have is, what sort of protective components are advised for home use for this machine?
If you would like to hear my opinion, pm me. I will happily share, but don't want to argue about this polarizing topic in public.
Quoted from heyitsjoebob:Previous owner put Superbands on it...could that be part of the problem? Any thoughts?
yes. SB are bouncier and thicker than normal rubbers. the ball coming down fast hasquite some rotation that biten into the rubbers and lifts itself over. less thickness = less bite = less problem.
Quoted from Phbooms:Star Destroyer mods
Star wars Armada - Imperial Class Star Destroyer
Quoted from Scott8806:an anybody burn me an sd card with the new code on it my machine is down after a failed update tried to buy one for stern would gladly pay for it sterns been no help at all I tried and it didnt work
pro or premium?
Quoted from Scott8806:Topper might ne hard though
Since everyone is considering whatever is on top of the machine a topper these days...
Quoted from Jace:I need to get better
Actually you don't need to do anything except having fun. Will get you a lot more credibility than humble bragging about scores.
Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:Balls can become magnetized and demagnetized by simply striking each other hard enough.
Really? How does that work?
I just went with the flipper fidelity set with the large woofer and i am extremely happy with the result.
Quoted from goldmaes:Are there any parts of the code that you really like or is it just a waste of time? I’d appreciate your thoughts. Thanks.
The drain on endor mission select is gone. That one alone is worth the update
Quoted from ticktockman:Is there any way to adjust this?
File down the burr at the end of the right lane guide. It is created by the ball hitting the face of the guide in play. It's ever so small, and you can only feel it with your finger nail, but removing it makes the difference between stem and right flipper. This information comes from Steve Ritchie himself.
Quoted from crujones4life:Just got my decal set. It has every decal in the game including the ramps.
Please do high quality scans before you apply any of this - in later times we will appreciate that A LOT
Quoted from RPZ:Nice! Where can I get this one???
I had fifty of them done back then, but all sold by now. If there were sufficient people interested i could do another run, but it's not very likely.
Quoted from RPZ:Anyone else want one???
Since then there were two people interested. If you can find me 50 people i can get a quotation for you. They won't do less than that anymore... :/
Quoted from D-Gottlieb:Since he won't likely do another run, why not just upload the file and people can make their own?
lol - you crack me up. why won't I?
Because the "file" is the pdf of the offical stern card, which I obtained from... STERN. I also provided it to thepinballrebel and you can download it here:
http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/
Just have it printed on a stainless steel plate and you are good.
Quoted from D-Gottlieb:I was referring to the 3D start button.
That I didn'T get. Makes a lot more sense tho
Quoted from ChipScott:Specifically for this project
Just in case anyone needs an idea, how to mount this specific model on the wire.
Quoted from RipleYYY:only ???
We all know you're the best. Stop being an ass who can't let anyone else post their scores without you telling them that you're better.
It's really disgusting.
Quoted from beelzeboob:I have the opposite problem...everybody is better than me. Also disgusting.
Same here, but not disgusting.
Does anyone know how to reduce the volume of the topper sounds (in specific the rotating sound - yes it is actually generated sound effect, not "rotating noise")
Quoted from Ashram56:Anyone would know what type of input does CN3 require for volume control ?
Rotary encoder, giving impulses on rotation.
Screenshot_20211119-083347 (resized).pngQuoted from Ashram56:Not sure though why you have a short between 4 and 5, this is headphone detect. It should be connected to the sense pin of the female 3.5 jack input (available only on PCB version of the connector), as is it would force an always on detection, no ?
Not sure either. I created this diagram based on the product I bough from User Metwurcht. I created a small PCB based on that, which basically places the whole circuit directly on the connector. From there I ran a cable to the "tournament button hole", where i placed the rotary encoder. Also I connected a BT-Transmitter by taotronics so I basically had Bluetooth on SW. Hoewever, this doesnt work very well due to the lag in the BT-signal. Hits on playfield and corresponding sounds are out of sync. Fun little experiment tho. I guess a higher qualty lag free BT-transmitter would make that a dofferent experience.
A (resized).jpgB (resized).jpgC (resized).jpgQuoted from F-2NIRO:Hi there, i can't stand the noise of the motor of my R2D2 topper anymore.
I will try to make improvements but I cannot open it.
The "motor"-sound is generated. It's NOT a real motor noise.
Three screws on R2D2s at 120° angle head. Two freely accessible and one unter the round thing (KAmera or whatever) just twist it out. If you figure out how to switch of that annoying "motor-like" sound, please let me know. I hate it as well and would love the volume reduced. the beeping is fine, but that stupid rotation sound is complete crap.
This is on my holiday list as well. If nothing I will find the speaker inside and disconnect / unsolder it.
Quoted from MrMikeman:BTW You can make brushless motors "sing" or generate sounds and even play music(just simple tones). This is not new tech. The remote control world(planes, helicopters) has had that around forever.
You can also play ACDC on an MRI imaging device. Pretty loud and pretty crazy. A speaker is the more obvious choice considering the cheap well established paths stern normally takes. As crappy as it sounds the speake would be super small, so I think some searching is required. UNLESS they send it via the cab speaker (which it doesn't sound like).
Quoted from beelzeboob:RIP R2D2 #486.
LOL, I hadn't seen that video actually.
WHAT AN IDIOT. Honestly this is sad and funny!!! How can anyone be so retarded to think that drilling a random hole somewhere in the head of R2 will solve anything. This is a TECH PRODUCT made after 1930, not a garden tool from the pilgrim's time. I have rarely seen anything quite as dumb as this. And more to that FIRST DRILLING and THEN POSTING it on a pinball forum. LOLOLOLOLOLOLOL. It's like saying "Check me out, I'm a total dumbass". Dude, you are competing with an 80 year old I know, who wanted some speakers disconnected from a TV and cut off the cables with scissors, WHILE THEY WERE playing.
JACKPOT!
But apart from the fact that you are obviously missing a few screws yourself (and we love crazy people in pinball), I totally empathize with your aggravation about the noise.
Made my day and my topper more valueable by the factor 500/499.
Quoted from Ashram56:Because now you will realize that most of the "not so nice" terms you used apply straight back to you (and the winner in this category, without any contest, is Sprudeldudel - congratulations)
I admit, I might have been too quick judging, and if there is more behind I will glady wear that crown
Still if anyone meant this seriously, I would fully stand behind my post. IF not: congrats for making us all, and me espcially look stupid. Sometimes you'Re the dog, sometimes you'Re the tree. Tree-day for me
Quoted from beelzeboob:Well, I'm happy to apologize for my part in the ball-busting, but that's all it was to me: ball-busting. That said, I still would never drill out that part of R2, even for one of your amazing mods (and I've bought the light saber in the past, so I'm a big fan). I like mods that are reversible in the event I sell the machine and the buyer doesn't like all the extras.
Anyway, keep on doing what you're doing and thank you: You're a credit to the hobby!
I absolutely second that
Quoted from coloradodan:Can you post a pic of where this burr is?
Outer orbit guide on the end of the guide. Run your fingernail along the guide, following the balls path (clockwise). At the very end you will notice a bump. this is formed by the ball hitting the guide from below. file that down, so you dont feel a bump, but just the guide ending. As small as it might have felt to you - it's enough to bump the ball towards STDM. Coming from the orbit is is intended to land on the RIGHT flipper.
This I was told on FB by Steve, when I asked him. I did solve my problem completely.
Quoted from Ashram56:Nice destroyer mod, I assume this is a "X-Wing" game mini fig ?
Star Wars Armada Imperial Class Star Destroyer, mounted as follows
collage (resized).jpg
Other custom stuff on this machine (beside the usual commercial stuff like mirror blades, topper, etc.):
stainless steel intruction card
emperial shooter knob
stainless steel bash button with acrylic centerpiece
silent fan mod
bluetooth mod
brass bearings
IMG-20180616-WA0002 (resized).jpg
IMG_20180610_152153 (resized).jpg
IMG_20190613_191148 (resized).jpg
IMG_20171029_100222-min (resized).jpg
PXL_20211119_120129771 (resized).jpg
IMG_20190623_165937 (resized).jpg
Quoted from RPZ:I need that instruction card!!!! Where can I get one please?
I had 50 of them made and sold all but mine. The pdf of the riginal card is on pinbalrebel. If you want one you will unfortunately need to download and find a metal printing company on your own. The one I had used was in Austria, but that wont help you, I am afraid.
Quoted from Ashram56:Also, what's the brass bearing for?
Basically a high quality bearing for the flippers. Sold by http://www.adpin.de/ in germany. They also have machined flipper, "VarioSwitch", buttons, which I have on all my machines. Inredible product, which comes in different eloxated colors or chrome. The bash button (not posted on the site) is a derivative of that - for which they still have material. It comes at EUR 100 a piece.
Quoted from Ashram56:In a different note, found in my boardgames stash this nice toy.
It's actally rather fitting by style, but not sure if it is part of the original three movies? How big is it really?
Quoted from ViNsEDj:Also, the scoop is getting SDTM like 1 out of 4 or 5 times.
Avoiding to Steve Ritchie the scoop is supposed to hit the LEFT flipper. There are adjustments you can make on the ball guide and coil power.
Quoted from Ashram56:Need to take a look at the ball guide then, it's adjustable?
Don't exactly remember but one thing was to align the eject assembly in a way that it is flush with the ball guide. Reason is you don't want the ball to get bumped when it touches the ball guide first time.
Then the ball guide itself MIGHT be adjustable but I'm not sure.
Quoted from F-2NIRO:I finished editing my buddy's R2.
Thanks for being a lot more capable than i have you credit for
Quoted from Psw757:Well if any of the mod makers feel like doing this I would buy it in a heartbeat!
Second that
Quoted from F-2NIRO:I exchanged by PM with beelzeboob for the process, ( schematic program,STL files, links of the supplies ect .... ) ask for him for sharing.
or, is it possible to put here some files for uploading ?
I ordered enough for two sets. In case I dont fuck up parts on assembly I'll happily pass on parts or maybe even an assembled kit to anyone interested, who is from Europe. No guarantees that it will work out tho, becaus eit can happen, that I screws something up and need the spares.
An idea regarding noise of the 'motor' on the topper. Is this sound maybe found in the game code? In this case it could be replaced by an attenuated version. Thoughts?
Quoted from OhmEye:I don't have the topper but am curious... does the motor sound happen even when the topper attract sounds are turned off but the motor is enabled?
Up until then last update that was the case. Maybe before hacking the code, i will take another look at the settings in V1.10
Quoted from shovelhed:Added Vaders ship with leds, looks bad ass.
Which exact model is this?
Quoted from crujones4life:Nooooooooooo!
Fpr Premium/LE I have the 0.89 code and the 0.93 code on my harddrive. Note that there was a possibility of killing the fork ramp on early code. But if you want to have a copy, I'll put it up for download for you. Only request in return is a clear and nice video of Midnight Madness.
Quoted from dutchi:Maybe its the honeymoon fase, but why did the game get so much hate? I absolutely love it.
Because casual players don't know what to do because of its complexity. It's a perfect home game for the same reason tho.
Midnight madness had nothing to do with them node board issue i think. Disney killed it. There node board thing was coincidence.
Quoted from PoMC:It’s going to take me some time, but I am going to make a version for all the original and comic art versions, along with the attract mode updates and balls save changes.
Incrdible! Altho, if it is possible, I would very much prefer the midnight madness back without the other changes. Everyone has a dffferent taste and I have my machine set up with with my own videos and music in it...
Or, if you could share how you did the changes to get MM back, I'd be glad to do that myself
Quoted from PoMC:XYZ updates and SD Image links will be posted in this thread.
not a good idea to post this publicly. stern will close the door next update if you keep this online.
Quoted from PoMC:I just got the game and likely won't have it longer than a few months. So I'm going to have my fun and whatever happens, happens.
Just a few months for you, but others might want to enjoy this longer. Don't spoil it for everyone. Be considerate. Keeping the door open for 1.11 would be great.
Quoted from Cento:Could I ask a favor
Bend asked and responded to a few pages back.
Added over 2 years ago:Been asked. I hate auto correct.
Quoted from jesperpark:When I changed my coil stops, backhanding the death star became easier as well
I would love to hear what exactly makes a coil stop relevant to backhanding a shot. Unless explained that is coincidence to me.
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:gold colored dust
I did switch them out as well, but actually because of the dust. I didn't let it get to the point where everything is so loose that it impacts performance. Thanks for clarifying.
Quoted from MaxIsDead:amazing what these go for today
What do they go for today? I have no feeling about this, but back when I bought mine i figured it would increase, since there are so few made...
Quoted from MrMikeman:Just download the full SD Card from Stern.
Will this update the node boards tho?
I'd probably update to 1.06 first, if the direct update doesn't work. Then 1.10. then 1.20.
Quoted from LeMansFan:Actually wasn’t it $7400 for a premium upon release? Or $7600?
In Germany it was 10500 EUR for the LE.
Quoted from Megeant:[quoted image]
Quoted from fooflighter:Installed!!! These look so good in this machine
I had Aluminium flipper bats installed as well. HOWEVER, they are heavier and more rigid than the plastic ones and I felt that was not doing the machine a favor - they shot weirdly. I actually reverted that mod because the elasticity of the plastic bats had mor "snap" to them. The brass bearings however I left installed. Visually I agree. They do look quite interesting.
Quoted from Travis82:Did you have to drill a hole in the playfield to install the center post? I just got a SW Premium from the September run, and it didn't come with an extra post or a pre-drilled hole under the center drain to install. I would love to have one, as I lose a lot of ball straight down the middle!
That post came with early Premiums and LEs. It was never officially clarified what it was for. People were suspecting it is to be placed under the force targets like on the pro. Steve Ritchie denied that. The user who turned it into a center post drilled his playfield. Everyone can do what he wants but IMHO this is the dumbest thing you can do to a playfield, because its an irreversible damage. If you're gonna do that you might as well close the outlanes with nails. This user also got a lot of negative comments on this creative idea back in this thread - me being one of them. But again, everyone can do what he wants. Your game, your choice.
Quoted from Knippen8:Top mods?
Invisiglass, shaker, mirror blades, silent fan mod, flipper fidelity speakers, CLEAR plastic protectors (to preserve the original colors of the art), Superrings, Playfield and shooter lane protector, mini LCD bezel, force target illumination, Tatooine hole illumination, black powder coated shooter rod housing, star wars armada empirical class start destroyer, white powder coated leg bolts, adpin bronze flipper bat bearings, violet under cabinet illumination, chrome coated metal flipper buttons by adpin, adpin bash button, metal instruction card, external headphone jack with volume control and if obtainable R2D2 topper.
That's my favorites and also my exact setup.
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Tulsa, OK