I am planning on a Feb/March purchase of a premium. I am thinking the issues will be worked out by then.
I am planning on a Feb/March purchase of a premium. I am thinking the issues will be worked out by then.
Where are the decorative blades available? They are sold out. Also, can one buy an oem plastics set? For a Premium.
With regards to the Armada Star Destroyer figure, has anyone opened this up so lighting or fiber optics can be added? That would be the finishing touch.
Quoted from John_I:
Any game with magnets will eventually. Since it doesn't stop and hold the ball it probably will take longer to magnetize them. As many metal ramps as are in this game the balls will probably need changing long before they are magnetized.
That's kinda what I was thinking.
Updated to 1.01 and the hyperloop diverter bounced the ball into the glass. Not every time, but it did it.
They are behind the death star. Pull the playfield forward. I had a set screw come loose and the arm disconnected. 5 min fix.
What would be the consequences of removing the power supply cover completely? Would electrical noise interfere with machine operation?
I added a shaker motor to my Premium and there was a squeak in the cabinet when it went off. Turned out there was no clearance between the hyper space accelerator chute exit and metal support bracket in the cabinet. I filed away about a millimeter from the cabinet support and all is good. This also quieted down the action of the hyperloop. Make sure there is clearance here.
The Hyper drive diverter should never launch the ball into the glass. So, I don't think all the bugs are worked out yet.
I am very glad I went with a Premium. The extra features are totally worth it, plus it will pay back in trade/resale should you ever have to part with it. I will echo what has been said- it is making me a better player and who would have expected that out of a pin? The flow is awesome and you better get your shots right or you will burn.
I have the one from Pinball Life. After I installed it I read all about the compatibility issues of the Sam Shaker motors and fried Spike node boards. Glad that was worked out.
I tried that and I will agree. The speed difference throughout the game is negligible.
The Armada Destroyer looks like it belongs in there. Everyone who has seen mine agrees.
If the distributor won't help you, I would just check the switches. There are 3. The ramp has 3 positions.
I would like to quiet down the power supply fan or change the cooling solution completely. What is the best mod for this? The fan is at the top of the power supply and turns on periodically despite placing another quieter, always-on fan on top of it.
Quoted from AUKraut:
I did the larger auxiliary fan mod for mine a couple of weeks ago and the Stern PSU internal fan has not come on since. Is your auxiliary fan in pull mode above the PSU, i.e. pulling the air out of the PSU??
Here is a pic of mine installed, with a link to the fan used:
amazon.com link »
Yes, it is pulling air out. The stock fan comes on, but not as often, so the extra fan is helping. I would like to fabricate a cover or possibly obtain another cover so I could mount a silent 80mm fan blowing continuously into the power supply at the bottom and dispose of the small fan at the top and add some vent holes or slots. I don't want to hack into the existing power supply cover just yet. . I am sure that there would be plenty of cooling with that setup. All I need to get would be the power supply cover.
I saw those but before I pop for them I would really need to see how they look installed.
Quoted from Dirtnap73:
Is there a safe way to adjust this? I checked the auto launcher under the play field and couldn't tell if there was a way to center it towards the right. Thanks for any additional help that can be provided.
If it is off, maybe try tweaking it a bit left or right. There is no adjustment under the playfield. Make sure that there is no excess side to side play in the mechanism. The two "prongs" should contact the ball at the same time to ensure a straight launch.
What works for me is hitting the right ramp or left orbit at the start of the game which starts the Hyperspace hurry up. Shoot the hurry up. On the next ball, select hyperspace Hurryup (Han or Luke). Hit the hurry up again. One more time will give you the Hyperspace multiball opportunity.
Quoted from Brian541:
A day of firsts for me after owning my premium for about a month I finally got to see the hyperloop work after replacing the node board that drives the fork ramp.Then I got to see my game freeze up and reboot itself in the middle of a customers game.I really hope this game doesn't keep having gremlins,Praying this new software update will get me some trouble free operation for awhile.
Check that the SD card is secure on the motherboard.
An advisory from Stern about shaker motors and slam tilt issues. I have a Pinball Life Spike 2 shaker motor and have no issues.
The PBL shaker and the Stern one are the same. Some machines have the slam tilt issue due to power supply electric noise. Not because of which Spike 2 Shaker motor is used.
Good info here on the cable and the coil stops. I am going to ensure that all cables are secured and check for gold!
I added the Armada Star Destroyer, Vader's Tie Fighter and an X-Wing. The idea was to have the Empire at rear of the playfield and the Rebels at the front.
I, for one, can not justify spending 500 bucks for whatever topper that Stern comes up with. The machine was expensive enough.
Quoted from Jediturtle:
Trying to decide if I went too overboard with the ships. I think the balance may be off a bit, and we know how important balance is to the force! I may end up moving the Slave 1 either to the right side (B-Wing spot maybe?) or to the back (in place of the Lambda Imperial Shuttle, but higher?). I love the B-Wing there, but it's a really fragile ship and is just begging for an airball where it is. Moving the Falcon to the right side would balance it perfectly I think, but I do not think I can find a good placement that doesn't block any shot view...and I do not want to pull a Groot arms on it! I'm really loving the X-Wing miniatures though...so nice and detailed. I just hope they hold up.
What do you guys think...too much? I do not want to end up like that crazy Twilight Zone with everything imaginable piled in!
It's your machine, right? Do what you want.
Good idea on the fan standoff. I am thinking of replacing the cover with a wire mesh to allow more ventilation. There is hardly any air flow through the power supply.
Stern went with a modular power supply that has its own cooling fan. There are several options to cool the unit if one is so inclined. I want it to be silent and I am planning on coming up with something.
Overpriced, period. For what the topper is constructed of, maybe 20 bucks or so in material, charging 500 is highway robbery. The machine itself was expensive, but that's market. You don't have to have a topper to enjoy the machine.
Funny how the diverter control timing is not mentioned. We will see how long it takes before a ball winds up in the shooter lane.
Hyperdrive works great. One thing I emailed Stern about was the irregularity of some flashing leds, particularly the start button. This has been fixed. Timing overall seems better
So I went and got some rubber mounts for the node board directly under the flippers- The idea is to limit any damage to any components or solder joints over several years of use. I just screwed them in to the holes left by the existing screws and and used m3 screws to mount the board.
There are others that have commented about this. I know that my Premium has no room. I guess the only thing I could do is to paint the insides of the cabinet or use decals.
I agree with the idea of not adding a PWM board to the Spike system. What about fabricating a rubber mount for the shaker motor?
I would try completely reinstalling the 1.03 update. Re-download at and do a thorough install.
The purpose of the post was never realized since drop targets are used on all the versions of the game. There is no practical reason to include the post on the Pro. It is vestigial. It would make sense to either include the post on all versions or delete it.
Has anyone had bad diverter ejects from the hyperloop since the 1.03 update? Because I haven't. Maybe just once right after I flashed it but not since then and I have had 3 balls in there a couple of times.
Quoted from Hoochoo:
Since the new code 1.03 the Hyperspace loop has worked brilliantly, I'm demolishing my old high scores and I've finally defeated the Emperor. I love this pin!
Below are all the shots needed to complete each mission for every character and what I believe are the most efficient mission stacks. All the recommended mission stacks below are started by selecting "Light Tatooine Missions" but you can rearrange most of the stacks to suit your needs if you like to light up other missions on your first ball. If you think some of the shots are wrong please post on which ones they are and I'll look into it. Click on the image to view it in it's proper resolution.
...many Bothans died to bring us this information...
Worse thing that can happen is that Stern sends you a new sd card and you pop it in.
I would love to learn to live catch with any consistency, but it's too damn difficult.
Quoted from Captchaos:
Just installed Fidelity Speakers in my SW, what a difference! It is well worth the money...hearing things I never noticed before. I noticed that when the volume was turned up the stock speakers would have horrible sound quality. Well that is a thing of the past with the new install! Give them a try! Changes the SW experience.
Link for the speakers plz?
I have heard repeatedly that Stern is good with coverage after the warranty. I have no doubt about it. I think that it's worth noting how short and unusable the actual written warranty is.
Where, exactly, are these tips, tricks and basically rules of the game published? It seems to be an elusive bit of info.
I am trying to find the deflector shield that fits on the Tatooine hole and it's not listed anywhere in the manual. Not the cliffy type protector but the curved deflector that the ball hits as the vuk ejects it. Anyone have the part number?
Quoted from JoshODBrown:
The issue with the distortion or 'clipping' of audio from the mono cabinet speaker is what I believe to be something that Stern was handling correctly pre 1.01 code where they added the ability to independently control levels on the backbox and cabinet speakers, along with bass/treble, and now ohm ratings with the very latest 1.04 version. In audio engineering, there is something called 'Pan Law' which deals with mixing a stereo signal down to mono. Essentially before a stereo track is mixed down to be presented in a mono application (such as the single cabinet speaker), each channel should have a gain reduction of -3dB to make it balance out properly and not introduce clipping. This is something I wrestle with all the time when we are filming and two people are wearing their own microphones, but sometimes each person's microphone picks up the other person. Rather than present each person in their own left or right channel, we mix down to mono and it often introduces some interesting clipping because we forgot to do the gain reduction before the mix.
The opposite is true as well. If you take a mono track and mix it up to stereo, it will be about 6dB too low because of Pan Law.
Stern simply needs to go back and examine what happened to the audio processing code that was handling this previously. I can see a call to a routine getting missed if they were doing all this plumbing to add the new system features. Again, this is likely a problem on all Spike II games that got these audio level adjustments earlier this year.
Looks like Stern is paying attention to you!
With 1.05 I adjusted the treble and bass levels to see what sounded best and at some settings I hear what almost sounds as a soggy effect at some points. This would disappear at other settings.
Quoted from dnapac:
Aaaaahhh! Worked great for 2 games. Then LED 6 went out again. Pulled the board. The top of the LED cracked off. Noticed it when hyperspace multiball was going. I’m guessing there was a small crack and finally fell off with the vibration. 1st LED 6 goes out for unknown reasons, my distro and Stern give me a new one, and now this...what are the odds. Contacted Stern to see what my options are.[quoted image]
There is something contacting the diode. Could be misalignment, a warped part, stress from mounting, etc. At least you know it's a mechanical problem.
I found that the glass would rattle a bit when the shaker went off and found that annoying. I put some vinyl tape around the edge of the glass (invisible when the glass is installed) and the vibrating stopped, end of annoyance.
I have backhanded the Death Star a few times. Also the left orbit, but not consistently.
The thing with the backhand to the deathstar shot is the flipper. Is it adjusted low or high and is the rubber stop bushing slightly worn out. A small variance can make a big difference. There are also manufacturing tolerances. Each game is a tiny bit different.
The stock speakers are crap. I went with Kickers and I noticed a big improvement. Don't forget to set the proper ohm selection in the service menu for the speakers you get.
Quoted from spidey:
My view is for $50 I have a great sound system. Kicker 4" for back box ($35) and Pyle 8" sub ($15). PPro and FF are great for the older systems that need adapters, crossovers and an L -pad. But with Spike 2, they have a built in electronic crossover for the sub, and separate bass/treble gain controls for the head speakers and cab speaker. All you need is the speakers and then fine tune the audio in the service menu. I picked Kicker because they are flush mount, as the speaker has to sit flush against the grille.
I went with your advice on this. How did you set your audio? What gain settings and whatnot?
Quoted from spidey:
Yes exactly. I'll see if I can find my settings but I know there's an audio selection and from there you can select 4 or 8 ohm, bass and treble + or - for back and cab. You don't have to change to 4 ohm, but keep the volume below 50% or it will start clipping. 4ohm selection ensures you won't overdrive the amp at max volume.
I did change the back box to 4 ohm and wired the cabinet speaker as per the instructions to 8 ohms. My understanding is that running a 4 ohm speaker with an 8 ohm amp can lead to problems. What are your treble and bass settings?
Quoted from spidey:
Cab bass frequency: 250Hz
Cab bass gain: +11.8125dB (max)
Cab treble: 4K
Cab treble gain: -6.1875dB (doesn't really do much that I can tell)
Back box bass gain: 0
Back box treble: 8k (sounds the same as 4k to me)
Back box treble gain: 0
I also left these at 8ohm, volume 32. Same as 4ohm, volume 64.
Yes, thanks. I will try that.
Quoted from PanzerFreak:
Installed Kicker speakers in the backbox, Plye subwoofer and a shaker on my LE last week and all I can say is wow what a difference! The speaker upgrade was only $50, and I paid $90 for the shaker from Pinball Life ($10 discount as bought 2). For around $150 I think aftermarket speakers and a shaker motor are the two best upgrades for the game. The shaker affect with the speaker upgrade during the match sequence is really cool. Now if only the the topper can be released...
Nice sound upgrades. Be aware of your ohm settings in the software. You will have to change the rating of the back box speakers to 4 and, if you hooked the cabinet speaker up in 4 ohm mode, change that, too.
I have seen a few of these bugs as well, particularly the ball going down the diverter, dead flippers, then put back into play. This was supposed to have been addressed in a prior update.
This pin still kicks my butt. I can't consistently get the shots down. And I have had this for 8 months. Maybe I need to practice more.
It's a flippin amazing score. My max is around 5. A buddy dropped by a week ago and got 6.
I dislike the video mode and Light Saber Duel so I have them set at the shortest duration. What I don't like about LSD is that it takes over whether you want to play it or not.
Try a diagnostic on the hyper ramp circuit. You can load a couple of balls in it and it should keep them in there. This was a bug in the earlier software. The latest version was supposed to address this issue.
I agree about a Star Wars update as well. It really can't be that time consuming to clean up existing code and add small features, compared to writing it from scratch. Stern has the bugs submitted to them so it's no mystery as to what is needed. Updates need to be better planned and implemented across the board, not left at 1.0. There is always plenty of room for improvement.
I would like to be able to pass on it sometimes, like the modes. It just takes over the gameplay.
With regards to the subwoofer, you can select the ohms in the menu, 8 or 4 for either backbox or cabinet speakers.
Quoted from Eskaybee:
I tried low setting and it was better but, I think it just effects how often the shaker gets triggered, not the strength of it. I mainly get the strong intensified shaker effect during the video mode more than anything, even at low. Maybe some anti rattle tape will help on the glass and backbox?
I wrapped tape around the edges of the glass and now it fits right and doesn't rattle. Big difference.
The center button also launches an extra ball when flashing orange during multi-ball modes by holding it for one second. This will also turn off your multipliers, so hit it again to re-enable them.
I am also interested in a set of art blades. Stern is silly, selling them in 3 pairs.
Quoted from VillaThrills:
So I put in some new Kicker 4 Ohm speakers today. Surprised that they sound significantly better when set to 8 ohm in the settings versus 4 ohm. Better highs and sounds fuller. Had to set the treble way up at 4 ohms. Why would this be and is there danger playing at the 8 ohm setting?
I am no expert, but the settings should match the speakers. You can run an 8 ohm speaker at a 4 ohm setting without harm, but running a 4 ohm speaker at 8 can overload the amplifier.
Quoted from bowtech:
going to be joint the club tomorrow when I go to pick up my Pro. anything I should look for before I by it? its a huo with 600 plays and a shaker motor. my pins are older and from all the posts I know dimpling will be normal but is there any other common things I need to check before I hand him the cask? I will play the game before I take it.
Ensure that the latest code, 1.05, is installed. Pull the back glass and check for serial number match and general condition. See if the pin is affected by the bulletins posted by Stern.
I have a Pinball Life shaker in mine. I tried rotating one of the weights 180 degrees but then couldn't feel it at all. Tightening up the glass with clear tape along the edges really made a difference. No rattling and now it seems less violent for some reason.
Quoted from zacaj:
Ritchie has specifically said that there's not supposed to be a post there. The only reason it was on the pro is because they used to have stand ups instead of drops
That was the original design, but it was never released with standups. Which makes one ask why is the post still on the Pro and not the Premium?
The shooter lane ball detection switch was loose on mine and tightening it really cut down on the issue. It did not eliminate it, but now it hardly ever happens.
If the loop has a ball already in it, every successive ball that is shot into it can collide with any balls that are there and that can screw it all up.
Quoted from kermit24:
This only happens if the ramp shot to load the ball is timed perfectly with the other ball making the turn by the ramp. EXTREMELY rare. I have seen it once. Put your game into hyperloop test to test this. Make sure all 4 magnets are working properly. You can load six balls in there with little issue. Doing it in a game is another story. Very hard to accomplish. I have loaded 4 in there. Seen others load 5.
Whenever it happens to me it's one of those weak shots that just makes it up the fork.
I just don't see how it is possible with the outlanes set to stock and 3 ball. It is a drain monster.
Quoted from Crile1:
My bottom left spotlight led keeps coming loose. Doesn't fall out, just becomes loose enough to not work. I can pop it back in, but after 1 ball, will be out again. What is the best fix? Hot glue or replace with a new/different LED?
Does it have the retaining clip installed?
For me it's the right ramp that can be frustrating. Sometimes I can bh it, other times no. Machine is clean and fast.
Quoted from RockfordReplay:
Follow up; Lifting the wire-frame at the Death-star's entry did help ball enter, but when running the hyper-loop the 2nd pass would fail, the flippers would die and the ball would waste away as-if I tilted the machine.
I pulled the wire-frame and bent the supporting arm to provide a right angle. It's too soon to tell if it's resolved, but I feel I'm headed in the right direction.[quoted image]
That sounds like a software bug to me. The flippers should not go dead.
Are you talking loops or orbits? The right loop is easy, along with the left ramp. The right ramp and orbit seem very difficult to get consistently with the left bat. Usually a backhand from the right flipper will get the right ramp, but not always. I can pretty much always get the left orbit backhanding off the left bat. The DS shot is easier with the right.
Flipper issue? Are the machine settings at low coil power? Or maybe the fork ramp is not aligned heightwise with the entrance to the hyperloop? It needs to be pretty well aligned.
You have some catching up to do.. As far as Hyperloop- the first time that you get it in there and it goes around, it will exit after 3 laps. The next time you make the hyper space shot, it will go around a lot longer and another ball is launched onto the playfield from the shooter lane. Keep shooting them into the hyper loop.
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