Star Wars (LE)
Stern, 2017
Star Wars (Premium)
Stern, 2017
Star Wars (Pro)
Stern, 2017
Star Wars Comic Art (Premium)
Stern, 2019
Star Wars Comic Art (Pro)
Stern, 2019You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider Schwaggs.
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I joined the club yesterday... bought a minty fresh Pro from a friend of mine! Loving it so far!
I was going through the flasher test as some of the flashers were not working (one bulb was in the coin box and the other had a lead bent).
Does the Pro have the "Behind the Death Star" flasher? Thats the only one that didn't work and before I go crazy looking for it, I thought I would ask if it is really there.
Quoted from Alby:Thanks,I think they look good .This is a better pic.
Looks great! Which MF is that?
My right scoop was firing SDTM. I tried adjusting the position of the scoop at the top of the VUK to point towards the side ball guide but that provided little improvement. The solenoid power adjustment didn’t help either.
I decided to bend the ball guide but didn't see any guidance how to do that so I thought I would post the method I used. The adjustment took all of 5 minutes.
If you remove the Jedi Training target that is just in front of the ball guide, you can gain access to the ball guide. Here you can see the ball guide with the target removed. Notice where the metal ball guide rests in relation to the black outline around the target opening.
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Loosen the 2 nuts from below the playfield that hold the ball guide tight to the PF. You do not need to remove these nuts, just loosen the ball guide so it does not scrape the PF clear as you bent it. I placed some electrical tape on the face of the ball guide to protect the finish. Using an adjustable wrench, gently bend the end of the ball guide towards the center of the PF. It does not need to move much so go easy when bending.
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In this picture, you can see exactly how far I moved mine. Basically from overlapping the target opening to just inside the edge of the opening. Reassemble and tighten the ball guide nuts. With my solenoid power at 64, the ball now hits the lane guide above the left flipper. Backed the power down to 25 and it hits the center or just above center every time! No more frustrating drains to end my multiball!
Quoted from AUKraut:Did you try adjusting the VUK so that it is square with the hole?? Steve Ritchie mentioned that in one of his interviews as the fix for that problem as some where assembled off a hair, and that did the trick on mine.
I did indeed try that first and it did not completely solve it. IMO, bending the ball guide like this was way easier and more effective than repositioning the VUK scoop. No need to remove the ramp and plastics to bend the ball guide.
Quoted from Ccondo:You can customize the color and brightness via an app which really helps them look just right for each game. I had the opportunity to see them on 20 different machines and they all looked as if factory intended.
They simply mount with special adhesive magnets to the cabinet sides just below the glass track.
If you get the GI option and flasher option it is linked to the game and they turn off and on with the other lamps.
They’re just great. Whenever I get another pin, these lights have become a given for me.
How does the GI interaction work on a game like SW that has multicolor GI? For example, when the game turns all red, or all blue, are the stadium lights just off?
Edit: Found this video - looks like the integration is OK with optional GI interface. Looks like the Pinstadium lights just turn off when the white GI on the game is off.
Quoted from Ccondo:On a different note, does anyone have an issue where the Ball Save or new ball ejects 2 instead of 1 ball? Or does the machine just think I need a handicap because I suck?
Listen closely when this happens, does the first ball eject attempt not make it to the shooter lane and the game tries again? This can happen if the fist ball doesn't make it into the shooter lane and falls back in the trough. This results in 2 balls being stacked up on each other and the next attempt to eject a ball results in both balls being ejected.
If so, try adjusting up or down the shooter eject power. Might have to watch the ball as it is trying to eject and see if it is a mechanical problem with the trough eject area (ball bouncing into the shooter lane and back into the trough, ball not making it into the shooter lane, etc)
Quoted from AUKraut:...as well as sometimes leaving the ball in the shooter lane during Multiball. I’m going to make sure it is set right first this weekend, else I’ll swap it out.
I've had this happen once too. I would think this is the shooter lane switch not registering correctly.... only happened to me once so not quite yet worth looking into. 
Quoted from Mudflaps:Awesome. Any links to the EL wire or tips?
I need to order a 5v inverter to finish the project then I will post some instructions on what to order and how to put it all together.
Quoted from ita47:Yes please share how you did this. Did you cut it open?
I just drilled some holes. A larger one in the bottom and a couple smaller ones at each side of the engine.
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Quoted from ktownhero:Does anyone else have an issue where shooting the left loop has a high percentage of going SDTM at high speed? Is there an adjustment that can be made to address this? It can be really frustrating at times. I'm on a pro so my death star shots are all left loop.
Never happens on my Pro
If you play Han, you can get to Hoth MB easily!
Light the Hoth Missions
Build up multiplier and make sure the Hoth shot is selected
Shoot Hoth and play the Hoth Video Mode
Shoot Hoth and play Hoth MB
Easier than Tie for me, which is also very easy to start.
You can also get to Endor MB pretty easily playing Han.
Quoted from imagamejunky:The bad. Ball save/Auto plunge is still giving me grief. The ball ricochets off the tie fighter 3 bank and drains on the left outlane MUCH too frequently (maybe 25%). I thought I had this fixed before, but NOPE. The coil strength is definitely varied from auto plunge to auto plunge. I’ve tried moving the metal ball guide 1/16” either direction. I’ve triple checked that my game is level. I’ve tried 6.5-7.0 slope. Nothing helped. Grrrrrrr! I wish stern would give us an update with a ball launcher coil strength adjustment but I’m not holding my breath.
Junky
This is very frustrating on mine too. Mine hits the 3 bank, then sometimes out the left or hits the drops and based on which targets are up, can drain out the right.
Maybe we should try changing the auto launcher spring strength?
Anyone have a solution to this?
Quoted from HeadRush:Just purchased a SW Premium last week and the fork ramp is already not dropping down all the way. It's not the motor, the side of the ramp is rubbing on the PF. The ramp doesn't appear to be bent...yet, it just looks off center. What's the best solution for this? I don't want to have disassemble my brand new pin if it can be avoided.
Quoted from AUKraut:According to Steve Ritchie's Stern youtube interview it's supposed to shoot to the left flipper at the default setting. If it doesn't make sure your right scoop VUK is square with the hole.
Or bend the end of the lane guide. It's much easier and squaring the VUK didn't work on mine. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-star-wars-clubmay-the-force-be-with-you/page/67#post-4244466
Quoted from TheLaw:Phones still work great for contacting people
Whaaaat??? You mean *gasp* talk to someone? 
Yea, they are not that great at email follow-up.
Quoted from adamross:Just joined the club! (big thanks to planetnine for a great buying experience) Plays great, except scoop is shooting balls SDTM, any suggestions? Game is perfectly leveled.
Quoted from zacaj:Not completely safe, but on my Pro it's not nearly that bad. I'd doubt even 1 in 100 goes down the middle
My pro is the same. The loop shot is safe and almost never an automatic STDM. I can even hit either loop from both flippers and recover the ball.
This is the main reason I am hesitant to upgrade to a premium. Not that the premium doesn't shoot well, just that with the manufacturing tolerances from game to game, you can end up with one that shoots quite a bit differently than another. I don't want to swap my fun playing pro for a frustratingly playing premium.
Quoted from Hoochoo:I switched it back on, and again the message "Locating Node Boards: 8, 9, 10, 11 Nodes Not Found".
I can't seem to find anything out of the ordinary under the playfield when it comes to cable connections, and at the moment the machine still can't locate those node boards. I'd appreciate any advice.
The only other issue that I have but I doubt it's relevant to this is the right flipper will get stuck in the up position once in about 100 presses, but then goes back down if a ball hits it. I don't think it's a power issue because the one time it got stuck right at the end of a session I turned off the machine and it stayed up until I flicked it down via the coin door.
Try reseating the cable from Node 0 to node 9A. Start by reseating the cable in CN22 on Node 0 (backbox). This is the right RJ-45 (looks like an ethernet cable) on the bottom right of the backbox board. Play some games. If that does not solve it, reseat CN5 on Node 9A. Play some games. Doing them one at a time will tell you which end of the cable has an issue. If neither of these work, you might need a new cable or a new board somewhere.
The flipper issue sounds like a bad coil stop on that flipper mech. Do you have "gold dust" on the floor of the cabinet below that flipper? Stern part number 515-6308-01
Quoted from Hoochoo:Thanks Schwaggs for pointing me to the RJ45 cables, it got me looking more closely at them and it looks like I've found the problem. One of the RJ45 Cables that connects all the way up to Node 8 is damaged. It was loose, right next to the Up Post-Loop rubbing up against it. I didn't even know that up-post existed on the Premium/LE BTW . Funny that a 1 cent cable tie could have saved this mess. Oh well, still glad to have found the issue, I hope a replacement will do the trick.
Congrats on finding the damaged cable! I believe you can use standard Ethernet cables from your local electronics store if you want to get up and running quickly!
Since you have gold dust, I would get a couple of those coil stops and replace them both. Stern has been having a rash of bad stops for the last several years. It is VERY hit and miss. The aftermarket stops seem to not have this issue.
Quoted from flashburn:Stern just confirmed on their Instagram that a code update will be out for May 4th, like many suspected. Can't wait! Maybe it'll be more substantial than a lot of us thought.
Makes sense. Maybe the topper, shooter and other accessories will be announced on May the 4th too...
Quoted from TKDalumni:no new stuff..just major bug fixes. No double asteroid modes, no double light saber modes, etc...stuff like that.
How about if something old is added back in.... Stern and Disney, please give us back Midnight Madness!
Quoted from joshdan:I have an intermittent problem with the fork ramp on my premium. Occasionally (1 in every 10 games or so) during gameplay, when the fork ramp is supposed to be up (for example during hyperspace hurry-up) the ramp will cycle through it's three positions over and over again, going up and down repeatedly until the hurry-up times out at which time the fork ramp goes back to the down position. Any ideas?
Maybe an intermittent functioning opto that detects the ball is sitting behind the fork? Try reseating the opto connectors.
Go into switch test and tap/pound on the PF and see if that opto registers (it shouldn’t unless a ball is passing through).
Quoted from Kobaja:Unfortunately in a freshly waxed state my mystery hole is unstoppably stdm...
Quoted from matt68061:My first official question is probably pretty dumb... (and I'm getting ready to throw on my flame resistant jacket)
I have code .89 and want to update to the latest. Am I alright to just DL the .103 update and drop it right in? Meaning, I dont need to go back and do .91, then .93, then .100 and so on...
I warned you...pretty goofy question! Presume I just need the latest but wanted to make sure.
Thanks in advance for any advice!
Matt
Welcome to the club!
No need to install intermediate versions when upgrading. You can simply install the latest code version.
Quoted from JoshODBrown:Heres a short clip of me Escaping Boba Fett while moving my 20x multiplier around to all the shots. Filmed this one a while back and never listed it because the channel content was getting a little too Star Wars heavy.
Shot sequence once you start Boba Fett is always the same... Left ramp, right loop, right ramp, left orbit, and finish it with a left ramp shot. Keep the hurry up alive/increase it by hitting the 3 bank targets under the playfield LCD. Being able to trap the ball and slow the game down is really the key for this machine. To start Boba Fett, shoot for the white shots, or just start shooting combos out of mode and the white shots should start appearing for you. This mode is especially hard because of the strobing GI. If your eyes arent great, I recommend turning on lights in the room to take a little bit of the strain off.
Good luck!
Thanks for posting that. It really underscores the importance of moving the multiplier around. 362M with 20X multiplier on each shot --- 18M if you ignore the multiplier or something between if you don't have it 1/2 maxed and move it from shot to shot. Could be 724M if you have the multiplier maxed at 40X
I love the strobe light effect of that mode. The lighting effects are one of the reasons I really love this game!
Quoted from kermit24:This is pretty good.
http://www.tiltforums.com/t/star-wars-stern-rulesheet/2812
I read the first part, looks pretty good, thanks! Question, that guide states:
Scoop: A saucer on the right side of the machine that kicks the ball out to the right flipper. This shot is likely the one used to light the Tatooine modes. Has a mode shot arrow, a “X Multiplier” light, a “Mystery” light, and a “Tatooine” light.
The scoop is supposed to hit the left flipper, no?
What is the purpose of the arrow insert in front of the scoop being lit solid orange? It seems to do nothing when hit.
Had a GREAT game with my friend kermit24 last night.
First ball was ~100M for each. He blew up ball 2 and had 1.6B. I too blew up ball 2 and ended with 1.8B. His ball 3 was incredible. All the way though Jedi and the start of the next character. 6.3B. He completed Endor, Hoth and Tatooine and was 1 shot away from completing Death Star MB! It was incredible to watch. Needless to say I couldn't catch up and finished with 2B. 
What a GREAT machine! Such great theme integration, lights, sounds, shots are fun! The whole package!
Quoted from dnapac:I need some help. One of the green LEDs on the deathstar went out. I need a Superlaser Assembly (a small board that is mounted inside the deathstar with the LEDs on it). Part #511-9972-00. The game is 10 months old. I contacted Dorothy Brown from Stern. I’ve always been treated well by Stern. She had me contact Betson Imperial. When I called them, they acted like I was an operator or distributor. Wanted me to set up an account. When I explained I was just a guy who likes pinball and has a couple HUO games, they said I could make a one time purchase with a credit card, but they would have to send me a form to fill out first. I have contacted Stern again to see if the is the correct way to get the part. I then googled the part to see if I could find it on the Internet....I found one on eBay $199.99 Really! I’ve read the complaints about Spike/Spike 2, and how expensive the node boards are, but this is not a node board...it’s just a small array of LEDs. I hope Stern continues to come through for me. Or are there any pinsiders who have other ideas or sources?
If you want to purchase one, contact Terry at Pinballlife. He is responsive and get the parts pretty quickly! [email protected]
Your other option is to try and buy some green LEDs and replace the defective one. I would buy a whole set so the colors match. Plenty of places on the net to buy them. Mouser, Digikey, etc. https://www.superbrightleds.com/ Just make sure to get LEDs that are physically the right size.
Might be worth pulling the assembly and reflowing the solder to that LED just in case it is a bad solder joint.
Quoted from kermit24:GOT and Ghostbusters have pop slot awards.
And GB takes it one further with pop slot punishments - the Scoleri Brothers "award"! 
Quoted from kermit24:Thats a good plan until Friday.
Dang it! I might have to limit you to 2 ball games.
Quoted from mcbPalisade:Thanks, is there a map of the menus? That would solve all my future questions.
Page 6 of the manual has all the standard adjustments listed.
Quoted from airplanequartet:I've had this game now for a few months and there are many things that I love about it. The hyper space multi ball is one of the coolest features I've played in pinball. The theme is a grail theme for me and the pin is fast and fun. However, I don't think I'm going to be able to keep this pin in my collection. It is just too difficult to play. The hyper space shot is so tight that I hit it maybe 1 out of 10 times. It's an essential shot in many of the modes and is so aggravatingly difficult to hit that it just makes me want to pitch this thing into the river.
To prove a point, I haven't even come close to the emperor on this game and have been getting frustrated with my progress so i decided to set the game on 10 balls. 10! This is actually more like 13 balls with the extra balls earned. I played 5 games this afternoon and couldn't even complete the 4 mode multi balls let alone all the other varying objectives required to get to the emperor. This is INSANE! This game is way too difficult and just frustrates me completely.
I'm most likely going to get rid of it, if I can't even cheat and get close to the wizard mode then this is a completely unplayable game. I mean, if i'd have come close it may have buoyed my hopes but with 10 balls and 5 games, I am not even scratching the surface of this thing.
Pro or Premium?
I find the shots on the pro to be much easier (all but the outer orbits are back-hand-able). The Death Star shot on the premium/LE with the lift make that shot tight and very tough to backhand. On the pro, it is much more forgiving, easily backhandable.
My friend has the premium and I have the pro. Both have their benefits (the extra features on the premium are awesome). I think the pro suits average players (like me) much better and the premium suits better than average players (like my friend) much better due to its tighter Death Star shot.
Quoted from Hoochoo:Here's my update to the sticky post "Summary of shots needed for modes." (I'm unable to edit the original post)
Newly Added:
DS4: Destroy the Death Star
H4: Escape from Hoth
T4: Escape from Tatooine
E4: Battle above Endor
Lightsaber Duel
Combos & Escape from Boba Fett Activation
Escape from Boba Fett
Defeat the Emperor (Jedi Multiball)
Also added:
Icons for: Points, Hurry-Ups, Adding Time and Non Compulsory Shots that can be timed-out.
Note: Much of this was tested on a SW Premium using Code 1.03 and should be 100% compatible with the current latest code (1.05). All shots are compatible with the Pro model; just ignore the Fork Ramp icon (||) for the Left Loop shots. If you find any errors please point them out I'll do my best to update the post ASAP.
Click of the images below to view them in their proper resolution.
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THANK YOU! This is very well done and very helpful.
On the complexity topic, yes - SW has it in spades. Many of my pinball friends think the game is just "OK" until I point out just a couple very basic concepts and strategy ideas - then most of them love the title.
1) Don't just randomly pick a character - each has their pros and cons. Some are super easy to start one or 2 MB every game (Han) - use the PF inserts to help you decide.
2) Don't just randomly pick a mode - use the playfield inserts to pick which one or ones to play to progress towards multiballs
3) Strategy to get to Tie Fighter MB almost every game if you play certain characters
Quoted from robx46:I've made the recommended adjustment to the kickout (making sure top of scoop is parallel with exit) & still have erratic ball exits. Sometimes the ball ejects squarely onto the left flipper which is great, then other times SDTM. Very unpredictable. Wondering if there are any other tips to fix this.
Yep! Ever so slightly bend the ball guide to the right of the scoop. Detailed directions here, earlier in this thread. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-star-wars-clubmay-the-force-be-with-you/page/67#post-4244466
Quoted from kermit24:That is all relative. I would say for someone who knows how to play pinball with average skill, 1B is a score they should hit pretty consistently.
I agree 1B is a score you should be seeing pretty often. However, you need to know the strategy of the game to get there. Just randomly hitting blinking lights and starting random modes will rarely get you over 300M.
SW club or not, SW over GOTG for sure. Really wanted to like that one but the callouts wreck it for me. New code may have improved GOTG lately but the last time I played one, it felt like a hot mess.
Deadpool and Iron Maden are very close but I still like SW better. So many ways to play it. So many skills and strategies to learn. Almost every shot is backhandable which adds flexibility (Death star ramp not necessarily backhandable on every premium/LE). Great theme/callouts.
Quoted from kermit24:Finally!
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SWEET! Might arrive just in time for my Stern Star Wars 2 year anniversary party!
Quoted from bowtech:Occasionally during tie fighter multiball it will eject 2 balls into the launch at the same time. Anyone else have this happen? If so how did you fix it?
I have this as well. Usually at Tie fighter start. I feel if it was a trough problem or something, it would happen at other times. I agree it feels like a code timing thing.
Quoted from Jasontaps:Does anyone know what part # this rubber is? When I bought my pro, the owner before changed a bunch of rubber, but it was light blue and didn't match. Plus some of it was cracking and looked brittle, so I replaced them.
I can't seem to identify this rubber bumper shown in my picture. The Stern manual doesn't even mention it at all.
The #4 that is close to the location is the rubber under the plastic (part # 545-5348-06).
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Common post sleeve - https://www.pinballlife.com/1-116-sternsega-black-rubber-post-sleeve.html
You can also get the colored "super band" post sleeves but be warned, they are like superball material and will result in a much faster rebound than the black rubber style.
I have the pro, friend has the Premium. You really can't go wrong with either. Lighting on both is incredible. Love the use of the color changing GI and the lighting on Escape from Bobafet is a real treat and puts you right in the movie! Modes, sounds and video clips are the best of any big-big screen Stern. You can flip through any of them if you are a flow person. Artwork is awesome on all models. Both may need some simple tweaking to end cheap drains. Easily done in an afternoon of playing and tweaking.
His Premium has chrome side blades which REALLY make the game look cool with the chrome hyperloop. It just shines! Hyperloop is a really fun feature. I thought I would like the "exploding" death star more than I do. Looks too much like an egg cracking in half. Great concept, just didn't work out as well as they thought, I think.
Pro is a easier and more fun to shoot IMO. EVERY shot is backhandable on the pro You have to really be clean to backhand the Deathstar with the fork up on the premium and even then, it doesn't always work. Pro has the drop target bank, just like the prem. If this was missing from the pro, I think the prem would have more appeal for me.
This being said, I am still on the fence about swapping my pro out for a premium, if the right deal came along.
You can't go wrong with either. Still my favorite game, not just in my collection, in all of pinball.
I joined the Premium club today. Now I have a Pro and a Premium. Going to try it out to see if I like the gameplay of the Premium as much as my pro before selling one or the other. My pro is such a blast to play that I am really concerned the Prem would be too much harder that it would take away some of the fun.
So far (one night) the premium is every bit as fun as my Pro! I don't really feel it is any harder than the pro
Quoted from pudealee:Posting again about playfield LCD screen issues. Still having issues with my mini LCD screen booting up all white. I've tried replacing the cat-5 cable with another one. That seems to work for a while, but occasionally (more often than not) I still get the white screen. I've found if I manually hold in the cables on the node board while I boot, it will boot up correctly. But it's a pain to have to lift the PF all the time.
There may be an issue with the cable socket. Not really sure. I've notified Stern about this and I've never received any good response on possible resolution. If the board that the screen plugs into is bad, any ideas on replacement costs? Any other suggestions? Does anybody have any suggestions on a "premium cable" or a cable with some sort of upgraded connectors?
Very frustrated. It makes me want to leave the game turned on all of the time (which can't be great for the game).
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Sorry you are having troubles with this!
From you description, sounds like a loose housing on the node board. Can you see if the black plastic housing where the cable plugs in is loose or cracked?
Any way to wrap a zip tie (or ties) around the board and connector to hold the cable snuggly in place?
Quoted from Looking4FirstPin:Thank you very much. I appreciate it.
If it isn't lighting, spin it 180 degrees. They are polarity sensitive.
Also, sometimes the wire contacts slip out of place. Make sure they are correctly in place around the wedge and not off to the side.
Quoted from ausretrogamer:This may have popped up here before, has anyone encountered two balls being ejected into the shooter lane? Seems like they are magnetised, even though I use carbon steel balls. It happens intermittently.
Pay close attention if the solenoid fires twice. It could be that the first ball isn't making it out. When that happens, 2 balls get stacked up and clear and 2 end up in the shooter lane.
Could need to raise or lower the power on that coil. Also check the weldment for crack welds at the top.
It can be harsh out of the box. Since these are hand built, the ball doesn't return exactly the same on every game. Don't be afraid to adjust some of the ball guides to correct the returns. Shots around the inner or outer loops should never return SDTM nor should the Tatoine scoop eject. The ball launch shouldn't bounce off the targets and drop straight down the left outlane.
Once these are adjusted (maybe you get a good one out of the box, my Pro was perfect) there is no more entertaining game IMO.
It is nice to have to have options. Based on this thread, it seems there are exclusive buyers for each package. Smart move on Stern's part.
I just can't get past how much the comic version reminds me of Data East Star Wars.
Quoted from Timerider:Not exactly DIY, but looks very nice: https://www.2niro-pinball.com/boutique/Light-saber-mod-p101286105
Cool but 220 euros? :O
I think its the code that gives people a bad impression. The first times I played it at shows and friends house, it was just meh.
Once one of my friends explained the objectives and the meaning of the inserts in the center of the PF, it really came alive for me. It is my personal favorite pin in my entire collection and has been for over a year. It has that "just one more game" feeling because there is always something you KNOW you could have done better. That damn movable multiplier is a cool risk-reward feature.
Coupled with the theme integration - it's hard to beat for a SW fan. Escape from Boba Fett puts you right on the platform with the lightning. Escape from Darth Vader with the color changing GI - available on both the Pro and Prem. The sounds and callouts are great.
Overall a great package that needs some "mansplaining" to get initially. Once you "get it" its one of the best IMO.
Quoted from wolffcub:Did a little vid to show the differences.
Looks great! Are you willing to share the file, would love to print some for mine.
I started with a Pro and moved to the Premium once I knew how to play and how great this game this is.
I agree, the premium is a little tougher since you can't easily backhand the deathstar (I can on mine about 1 in 20 shots). The rest of the shots are the same. I just love the hyperloop.
No regrets moving from pro to prem for me.
Quoted from Elvishasleft:I spent a ton of time dialing in my premium so it played about as well as one can play.
The shots were nowhere near "the same" as a pro.... ramps are much smoother and easier to backhand on the pro.
The hyperloop is a very cool toy but the pro plays miles better if it didnt I would have bought another premium.
I love the game and either is great but the premium plays almost like a totally different pin.
Agree to disagree. The shots on my pro were exactly the same as the shots on the 2 premiums I have had in my house with the exception of the Death Star shot. I loved playing my Pro so much it was a very hard decision to move to the premium. Luckily for me, a friend sold me his premium so I could play-test it extensively.
As mentioned, the lack of the post on the left side makes it a little harder game but it doesn't make the shots any different.
Quoted from Elvishasleft:Most people I have met that "hate Star Wars" have no idea how to play it after you ask them a few questions.
Its not really walk up and play friendly at all... you need to get whats going on and know what to do or not do.
Just banging a few games on it on location and saying it sucks is pretty common unfortunately.
100% agree with you on this. I absolutely did not like the game the first several times I played one. It was very "meh". Then my friend explained the basic rules/objectives and the meaning of the array of inserts. It really came alive for me.
Quoted from setzkor:Second, where is the "mystery" suppose to feed the ball after it comes out? Right now, mine barely hits the left flipper on a good launch, and can just send it right down the middle...especially if timing is a bit off on my flip. If I try to dead bounce, it just drains. Is there an adjustment to this?
This game is brutal enough, I want to make sure I have everything adjusted I can.
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Easy solution!
Quoted from Cheeks:I'm still looking for a Star Wars Comic Premium, and have not looked inside the deathstar (so I'm talking out my ass), but isn't there some way to adjust things so the hyperloop shot doesn't reject so much? I know the ball goes up the fork ramp, but what is it hitting to reject? Is it the transition to the wireform? If so, could something be bent or fabricated? Or is it hitting the internals of the deathstar? Could a modder make a new sorta hollower mold?
It seems like everyone likes the hyperloop but hates how unreliable the shot is. I'm just curious what keeps someone from doing / replacing something to make the shot more reliable somehow.
The fork ramp on the premium is very steep and needs a clean shot from the right flipper.
The shot on the Pro is simply a flat loop (like the premium when the fork is down). Easily made with a backhand or sloppy shot.
Quoted from Karl_Hungus:I went with red on the Premium to match the sith vibe. I would get blue on a pro.
[quoted image]
I used red on mine as well. I connected it to the red GI on the playfield so it turns on and off with the modes (light saber duel, escape Boba Fett, etc). It evens out the red-blue near the flippers too.
Quoted from Kobaja:Lets make a list and then approach them together. Could have more impact.
1. klr2014
2. rpz
3. sprudeldudel
4. ...
You could also approach Robert
https://www.hookedonpinball.com/store/p116/Star-Wars-LE-Side-Rail-Kits-Pinball-Mod.html
Quoted from Kobaja:Those are pinkish when off. Pingraffx are pure white. That's The catch... And no pink rails on my SWLE ...
Hmmm, never noticed the pinkish tint and it isn't obvious to me. Nice to have options!
Quoted from Rasavage:I have this kit. It looks good on and off and overall I’m happy. But but the EL strip is just a hair too small IMO, a little loud when it’s on (gameplay will drown it out but otherwise you’ll hear a high pitched sound) and they don’t respond to service issues, so you could end up having to troubleshoot or fix on your own. I don’t think I’d buy from them again.
Hooked on pinball however was super responsive and great to work with when I bought their EL kit for my TNA.
That’s my experience, your mileage may vary.
Agree, Hooked is great to deal with.
I can't hear any sounds from his kit but my ears are pretty old!
Quoted from pudealee:I have the Data East SW machine myself, in addition to my standard Stern Prem. The DE machine graphics are pretty much in line with the Comic editions. A lot of similarities in the graphics.
This ^^^ I can't unsee DESW in the Stern comic art package.
Its nice to have options!
Quoted from coloradodan:I'm glad that you can be wrong and we can still be friends.
LOL
Quoted from Pauz21:Finally joined the club with a nice original pro.
Few questions as I try to dial this in:
1) where should the ball end up coming out of the right orbit? Mine looks as though it hits a rivet in the rail right at the last second and it noticeably changes it path a bit further to the left flipper than it would have.
2) where should the mystery/tattooine shot end up? Mine more often than not goes right down the centre drain. If it doesn’t... it just barely can be contacted by the tip of the left flipper and often times you end up shooting it right back in to the tattooine scoop.
3) shaker motor came installed... does this game not really use it or could there be an issue with it. I’ve checked the settings and have it on maximal use but rarely if ever even notice it. And when I do it’s very faint. Don’t want to shake the screws out but at this level it has no point being there.
4) left orbit spinner? Any issues with this? I see the lower right corner of my spinner is mashed a little and many shots to the orbit hit that spinner on a bit of a side angle so it doesn’t spin. It actually just bricks your shot on the spinner.
Gotta get it dialed in a bit cause I have a hell of a time hitting that left orbit. Used to be able to back flip it routinely from the left flipper of my friends pro. Not even close on mine.
1) If your game as a lot of plays, look for an ever so slight burr on the edge of the exiting ball guide. A few passes with a file will take care of it. Make sure to catch those filings.
2) it should hit in the center of the left flipper. Several ways to fix it, here is how I fixed mine https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-star-wars-clubmay-the-force-be-with-you/page/67#post-4244466
Quoted from Hammer3246:My 1st NIB arrived today, Sold my Pro and bought the Premium to replace it! Couldn't be happier.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Welcome to the SW Upgrade Club inside the club!
I did exactly the same as you - I also couldn't be happier.
Quoted from Toddolie:So I just unboxed my brand new to me NIB Star Wars Premium last week and freaking game is a drain whore. I cannot believe the rate at which games are over. I am an above average mid level player and the outlanes are rediculous, the scoop 60+ of the time is SDTM. The inner loop from right to left is a risky shot, the inner loop from the left side is almost certain death. I have plunged balls with the button and had them immediately drain followed by 2 ball save drains. I wanna take an axe to the game sometimes it is so frustrating. I could probably adjust the front legs a touch as I just bolted them all up right out of the box and the bubble is below the middle a tad so it is running a bit fast but still I have never seen another game drain like this Bitch. It can't be just me. Please some one give me some set up insight as to scoop strengths or something helpful other than play better. I have seen values between 20-25 as a possible help. Anything else. I wanna love this game and probably have 150+ plays on it already because games last like 2 minutes if I'm lucky. HELP!
Quoted from Palmer:I recently picked up a comic pro and yeah the game can feel like a drain monster at times. I like to set most of my games with a tight to average tilt. This fucker is set loose as I need to nudge a lot more to keep the ball in play. I am still having issues with my scoop shooting to close to SDTM. Playing around with eject power hasn't helped. I think I am going to try and bend the guide a bit next. Even so, I am enjoying SW way more than I anticipated. It really is a flip on the fly type game.
This is how I fixed the scoop on my game. The same technique can be applied to the inner and outer orbit ball guides to reduce SDTM shots on the orbits.
Quoted from SimplePin:I've read this entire thread in anticipation of my getting my Premium in August. It was the first pin I wanted to own but a few other machines found their way into my basement first. Now that SW is finally about to arrive I'm starting to have doubts based on all of the negative comments about the game on Pinside and Reddit about how difficult it is. I don't mind a hard game as they tend to keep my interest longer and the rewards are often worth the effort. Is it really as hard and frustrating as everyone says it is? Is it really all about setup and tuning? I wanted this machine to be a keeper as I'm a huge SW fan and I really like what they have put into this game. Somebody talk me off the edge
An early welcome to the club!
This is still in my top 2 games in my collection along with Rush. SW does have some drain monster shots you should not take (left to the red targets, right to the Death Star, etc) or a missed shot comes right back down the middle.
The cool thing is you can backhand just about every shot. You should practice that and it will be more fun.
This is a hand made machine that has very complex geometry for the shots and ball returns. Some tweaking of the ball guides may be needed to avoid some of the cheap drains at launch, from the scoop and orbits. I was working on a friends heavily routed SW and the return from the right outer orbit would go SDTM. It was caused by a tiny burr on the metal ball guide. Filed it off and it returned right to the flipper. The tiniest thing can have a big impact.
Learn the importance of mode selection so you can finish more than one at a time and so you can progress towards the multi balls and destroy the Death Star. Before I knew this, the game was meh to me. This is an important strategy.
Here is a fun strategy that anyone can use to get multiball and have the start to a pretty fun game. Choose Han. At ball start, pick +5 tie fighters. Hit the tie fighter to start the hurry up and repeatedly slap tap the lock bar button to get as many tie fighters as you can without draining. On subsequent balls, pick +5 tie fighters and you will get tie fighter multiball.
Very fun game that continues to be bolted to the floor.
Quoted from crujones4life:Not much I can say that hasn't already been said. The theme integration with movie scenes and music is the best that has ever been done IMO. My favorite pin ever. Yes it is an be difficult. Some games I might score 100,000,000 but my high score is over 5 billion. The mini wizard modes are reasonably attainable. So many ways to play with different characters and different paths. Love it!
Great point on the theme integration. I especially love the Darth Vader VS and escape from Boba Fett modes.
Quoted from vikingerik:The big problem that can't is when the ball goes plunger -> standups -> left outlane. You can avoid this on manual plunges by plunging softly to the Force targets or flippers, but during multiballs, it's going to happen unavoidably. Some find that tolerable, some don't.
You can change this by adjusting the ball guide on the right side of the shooter lane. Bend it slightly flatter and the ball will hit the 3 bank a little further to the right and hit the top or middle of the left sling. Put more curve in it and it will hit the bank further to the left and hit the stand-up targets on the left side.
Quoted from crujones4life:Lightsaber Duel!!!
THATS IT! - had a mental block trying to remember the name!
Quoted from hiker2099:I'm thinking SW is on the line now since these are finally being made and shipped.
https://www.facebook.com/commerce/products/5095517833893182/
$129 for the apron plus $199 for the IC kit? Can't they cut us a break on the combo?
IC arches back in stock:
https://shop.sternpinball.com/collections/accessories/products/star-wars-premium-le-replacement-arch
Quoted from Ashram56:I'm having a hard time with step 9. Is there a specific action to be taken to register the machine? I don't remember how I did it on Stranger Things, but on my SW the IC menu states that I need to register by scanning my QR code, but scanning does not seem to work (ie nothing happens). Scanner is connected and reported as functional by the machine.
Is the machine connecting to your WiFi and getting an internet connection? Go into network and test your connection.
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