I like the new siderails and mirrorblades on my Prem.

F4B96FB2-D151-41D7-ACA1-246063F1D0FC (resized).jpeg

It was at a toy convention in las vegas

My two cents:
1. Mirrorblades. They look awesome especially with the wireforms on the Premium.
2. The lighting is pretty fantastic as it is. I love the GI effects and GI dimming. Lots of people here love the stadium but it isn't for me.
3. There is no audio out at all. You have two options:
Pinnovators sub output board for $35
http://www.pinnovators.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=48&osCsid=4kie46ac7kmhm480m8qmgjaea2

or Stern Spike 2 headphone jack for $99. The headphone jack does add external volume control for BOTH the headphones and the speakers. You could use that to tap into an adapter for sub out. You sub would just need a crossover, which most have.
4. No speaker designs for me but yelobird has the best kit IMO.

Any chance you could you use both the Pinnovators sub out board and the Stern Headphone kit at the same time...or do they plug into the same spot?

Different spots - The stern kit plugs into CN3, but CN3 is just above where the PV sub board connects.

https://images.pinside.com/a/69/a697b4e373fbd482c1d1cb72beac2a39dd2fddc2/resized/large/a697b4e373fbd482c1d1cb72beac2a39dd2fddc2.jpeg

Thanks. So do you think there is room for both? The Pinnovators sub out board is not huge, but it is not tiny either.

This would not be an issue if Pinnovators would come out with a Spike 2 headphone kit. I am starting to wonder if that is ever going to happen.

Don't think it will happen. Ask lllvjr

Both the sub out board and the stern jack connector should fit at the same time. The board extends down:

http://www.pinnovators.com/catalog/images/330_041_PINsub_SPIKE_board_800x600.png

Joined the club this week-end LE #35 in the house. Loving the flow and speed of the game so far.

Just installed Titan clear rubbers and the LCD bezel. Ordered some mirror blades.

Game has the shaker and invissaglass. Starting to look even better.

I plan to install under cabinet lighting, flipper lights and leg protector lights soon.

What are some of the other must have mods the tie into the game nicely?

28555280_10215831996943067_2138281916_o.jpg

Thanks!

I just ordered the sub out board and I will probably add the Stern headphone kit in a couple of months if Pinnovators does not come out with one.

I think SW already has great sound, so I can't wait to hear it with the addition of a sub.

I use both

That's great to hear. I figured someone had to have given it a try. How do you like the Stern headphone kit?

Joined the club tonight with a Premium. Super fast fun! Very addicting. Thanks to Utesichiban for the help getting it downstairs!! Anyone replaced the white t-molding have which instructions?

Looks awesome. Still dont get the attraction of those bezels. Makes it look too busy and detracts from the screen imo the clean black looks way better.

Thank you to chipScott and kermit24 for the responses. I appreciate it guys.

I picked up my new Premium today. What a fantastic game! Super fast and fun. Seems deep too. I have a lot to learn. I just love the lights and sound quality. Just awesome! Plus I’m a Star Wars fan.

I ordered both the pinovators sub out kit and the stern spike 2 headphone jack kit. This will be the first time I’ve connected a sub to a pin the “correct” way (line level outs). With my other pins I’ve always just run speaker wire from the cabinet woofer wires to the speaker level inputs on my subs. I decided to try the pinovators this time. I hope it’s worth the extra money. I’m also hoping that the volume knob on the stern headphone plate will control overall volume from the speakers including the sub connected to the pinovators kit.

I also ordered mirror blades, shaker, and a few other mods. Wish I would have ordered these ahead of time. I’m not yet sure about the pinstadium lights. Not sure I need them. The factory light show is phenomenal.

Fair enough. But you should peel off that terrible stock sticker, it looks like crap. Not sure why they couldn’t bother to match the font or the shade of black properly.

There are some pictures of my SPIKE 2 Speaker Light Kits in some games here:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/speaker-light-kits-now-available-for-stern-spike-2-games

..though I have yet to see anyone post any pictures with the SW acrylic designs installed.

Doug

www.speakerlightkits.com

The Pinsatdium lights with GI & UV glow flasher are amazing.
The Armada Imperial class Star Detroyer also looks like it was meant to be, mounted on the right ramp.
I have a red LED lightsaber that splits the tie fighter and 3 bank. I connected it so it comes on when light saber dual goes dark...pretty cool.

I feel the opposite. The bezel from pinball life makes the screen blend in much more like it belongs there. The game was screaming for this mod. To each his own I guess.

Here you go Doug. These LEDs are top quality!

Also, the IR receiver works perfectly through the translight. You don't have to mount the receiver between the LCD and speaker frame That's how I've done IRs before.

Junky

20180228_163401 (resized).jpg

20180228_163409 (resized).jpg

20180228_165015 (resized).jpg

20180228_165023 (resized).jpg

20180228_165027 (resized).jpg

20180228_164959 (resized).jpg

20180228_164938 (resized).jpg

20180228_164907 (resized).jpg

Lit up the X-Wing Millennium Falcon with a short piece of blue EL wire! Looks like the perfect shade of blue!

Now to go mount it in the game!

D6432C16-06C1-4AA8-ABF5-A8990ACB78FD (resized).jpeg

Cool!

Awesome. Any links to the EL wire or tips?

I need to order a 5v inverter to finish the project then I will post some instructions on what to order and how to put it all together.

Overall I’m happy with it ... I feel the pinvators spike has better sound but may be the game GB vs SW .

Yes please share how you did this. Did you cut it open?

I just drilled some holes. A larger one in the bottom and a couple smaller ones at each side of the engine.

6B998E31-40A6-4498-A2DA-B86D910FD536 (resized).jpeg

88D9D617-0F48-4698-8AD1-7CF94BC938D2 (resized).jpeg
EC77421E-8EB7-4DFA-9C0F-9DC613779A6B (resized).jpeg

Thanks.

As far as mounting the IR eye...I had originally planned on instructing to stick it just above the "shelf" between the speaker panel and the translite. That made it so you had to detach and reattach the velcro on the remote eye each time to pull the speaker panel down. Then my friend asked about putting it near the speaker plate crack. That worked, so I advised that way as that made it so the speaker panel could be raised and lower without moving the remote eye. Your mounting has the same advantage since the remote eye in on the back of the back box.

You look to be missing a Rebel screw. Was there an issue?

I hope the designs weren't much trouble for you. The honeycomb columns being an even amount strangely complicates getting them mounted more than you would think. The mounting hole placement on the designs are something that me and my design guy are trying to get a better grasp on. It seems that if you have the holes lined up to hit the same type of column (short or long) the designs are easier to mount straight (without a tilt to them), but hardener to get centered left to right. If they hit opposing type columns...they are easier to center left to right, but more of a challenge to mount without a tilt. The hole placement also has to be dictated a bit by what the design is as you would want them to be symmetrical if possible and they also need to be in an area of the design that is not letting light shine thorough it if it is a design with etched detail. The good news is there is so much empty space in the middle of each honeycomb there is usually a lot of room to move the design around after you get the nuts attached loosely on the back. The tricky part is then getting the designed positioned as you want when tightening the nuts.

I have found it also helps a lot to have a helper to hold the panel when mounting them and it is also advised to do any design mounting before you attach the support cables on the top inner threaded studs, as it puts less strain on them from holding, opening and closing the panel when mounting the designs.

In any case...I hope they weren't a pain for you. It looks like you did a good job of getting them positioned well. Thanks again for posting the pics.

Doug (SpeakerLightKits.com)

Cheers to Yelobird for the inspiration! I did likewise, called a distributor and politely asked about ordering the specific part number for the LE Side Armor (535-1729-25-00 and 535-1729-25-01, from pg. 40 of the Premium/LE manual). I did not flag the fact that I was ordering parts that did not come stock with my machine -- I wouldn't do that with any other part order, and why should the distributor care anyway? Plus I figured if Stern doesn't want to sell me the parts they can always say no. Which they did not, and I've got the side armor in hand today. They weren't cheap, but they will make a nice addition to my Premium.

[EDIT: I've been told by PM that a number of distributors are now saying Stern won't ship the LE side armor, so this might be YMMV or might no longer be possible at all. But if you're interested and have ten minutes to make a few calls, it still could be worth a try.]

Does anyone else have an issue where shooting the left loop has a high percentage of going SDTM at high speed? Is there an adjustment that can be made to address this? It can be really frustrating at times. I'm on a pro so my death star shots are all left loop.

That happens to me as well

Yeah not all the time but in a ricochet situation at full speed it'll head down there

Don't think I've ever had that on my pro. Occasionally the right loop if it goes around weird but never the left

Happens on an LE that I play, but rarely if ever on my Pro. Same with the kickout...SDTM on the LE, left flipper every time on my Pro. And yes the LE is setup correctly.

Mine did this when I first got it. I had to bend on the ball guide on the right side. If I remember it needed more bend to it. Now mine hits consistently on the left flipper. You have to remove the plastic behind the mini lcd screen and the screen also.

It seems like Star Wars generally warrants tearing down the playfield and tweaking all the ball guides.

My LE hyperspace loop divertor to the right ramp will sometime smack the ball into the glass. Even with just one ball in the ramp. Is this common?

Happens to me occasionally as well. Seems to be better recently for some reason. No clue why.

Mine (an LE) did not do this at all, and then I adjusted the angle to 6.5 and cleaned the play field, and now it does it almost 100% of the time on fast clean shots. Guess I will have to look into adjusting the ball guide.

I get this once in a while too. Maybe 5% of the time?

Happens on my new premium, maybe 5%

Never happens on my Pro

There was someone on here that put some sort of tape on the metal guide in that loop. Must slow the ball slightly to change its trajector. I don’t have that problem.

Wow I see all these new posts, and I thought the topper arrived... doh.

My premium also has this happen and makes me wonder how many times the glass can take this abuse before it shatters

I think the glass can take it. Think how often balls hit the glass in a public setting, then think how often you’ve heard of a pinball glass breaking in a public setting. It’s a timing thing with code. It will probably be tweaked with the next code.

Picked up a Lambor Class Shuttle from the Miniature Game set and used some Museum Putty to mount it (this stuff works great - used it to mount some light cylces on Tron a few years back and had some left over).

Looks nice and doesn't block the view of anything.

IMG_5911 (resized).JPG

IMG_5908 (resized).JPG

We have had the game for a little more than a week now, and just about every game I play (when I can get my daughter to give me a turn) there are air balls, jumping out lanes, ramps, all over (I am pretty sure my daughter gets them just about the same).. And when they hit the glass it is certainly louder than other games I have. There seem to be several places they originate from, and have been wondering if there are ways to adjust things to make it less frequent. If it is really just a timing thing in code, well hope they can update that soon..

This happens on my pro quite often if I perfectly nail the Death Star shot. It can be counteracted with a timed nudge, but you have to be ready for it and, damn, it’s like a half second window.

I was getting a lot more drains at first, but I’m much better now at reacting. I put a small piece of weatherstripping on the loop apex for awhile to modify the tragectory but it had too much effect on the ball on slow loops, so I removed it.