It's most likely that the down switch is not adjusted properly. It's triggering too soon.

Hi, I can confirm on a pro you need to unscrew the left ramp to access the post and replace it with either a Siamese post or one of the 3D printed posts from thingiverse. It's not complicated even for a noob like me but I was happy to have another pair of hands to help me while I was installing the alternate post.

Tried adjusting the arms and not getting much help. I have noticed that in diagnostics everything runs fine, it's only during play where it happens. Almost seems like the ramp continues its cycle. Will work on the arms more.

I did manage to make it so that death star won't close on ball clear as well now.

20211210_130445 (resized).jpg

Hi there guys, Ive been playing a lot with my machine and got some doubts.

When hitting the death star loop, if its with a normal speed, it got into the right flipper, but if I hit it in a high speed shot…it get SDTM most of the times.

Also, the scoop is getting SDTM like 1 out of 4 or 5 times.

Game is at 6.5 and well leveled 0.0, is this normal? I guess its just the game that is hard as hell right?

Regards! Thank u

The scoop speed can be turned down in settings.

Avoiding to Steve Ritchie the scoop is supposed to hit the LEFT flipper. There are adjustments you can make on the ball guide and coil power.

It does go to the left flipper most of the times but not all of them.

Any advice on the desth star loop?

I played with power, at max power it's a direct drain. I actually had to lower it to minimum, so it's slowly exiting in the right slingshot.

Need to take a look at the ball guide then, it's adjustable?

Don't exactly remember but one thing was to align the eject assembly in a way that it is flush with the ball guide. Reason is you don't want the ball to get bumped when it touches the ball guide first time.
Then the ball guide itself MIGHT be adjustable but I'm not sure.

Looks like these are now available. I just placed an order. Looking forward to this one!!

Just waxed my SW Comic Pro and DAMN is the ball fast. My son said,” It’s less like trying to aim a slingshot now and more like trying to redirect a meteorite in a parabolic orbit before it’s decay causes it to fall down a gravity well.”

I finished editing my buddy's R2.
finally, the wires get tangled quite quickly with the attract mode.
I continued my research and ended up finding the circular contact, I would never think of finding at amazon.
contact circulaire.png

https://www.amazon.fr/collectrice-%C3%A9lectrique-connecteur-collecteur-diam%C3%A8tre/dp/B085MG1BS7/ref=psdc_72973031_t3_B085MFQC7X

the real challenge for me was to make a black lens (the one I drilled) which lets in a little light.
after several tests, I found the right formula, a few drops of black ink in my crystal resin mixture and we obtain a semi opacity.
very honestly, it was difficult to implement all this, the rendering is nice and my friend likes it a lot, that's the main thingDSC03411.JPGDSC03414.JPG
R2 in action

R2 alive again

Um...can WE be friends, please?

hi beelzeboob
i don't think that you want to send me your topper in france
but like i said , i can share my program and stl file to print the frame of the two screens, and the list of the items to buy.

@F-2NITRO Wow, just wow. That's the bare minimum of what the topper SHOULD have been and you did it for a few bucks. Amazing work!

Thanks for being a lot more capable than i have you credit for

Well if any of the mod makers feel like doing this I would buy it in a heartbeat!

Looks great, nice job!

Second that

I'm in too.

I exchanged by PM with beelzeboob for the process, ( schematic program,STL files, links of the supplies ect .... ) ask for him for sharing.
or, is it possible to put here some files for uploading ?

hey guys, changed out the coil stops on my flippers and wow what a difference! they are much 'snappier' than before and I'm hitting the ramp with more speed which really cuts down on rejections. even the backhand ramp shots seem easier! this might help some of you who were getting alot of rejections.

What took you so long? Stern coil stops suck.

Any advice on how to dial the game ?

I acquired it a few weeks ago, and man this is a frustrating game, at least for me. I'm an average player, and I must confess that I'm not really enjoying it, compared to my other machines (LOTR, Tron, DI, Indy WPC, TZ, ST, CFTBL), it's WAY more difficult.

At least on the other games (well TZ might be an exception), I have a sense of control. On Star Wars (it's a Premium by the way), the game is incredibly unforgiving to me. There are many shots that end with a direct left or right drain (such as the TIE fighter from the right flipper, or the bank from the left flipper).

In a nutshell, I'm not having fun with it, frankly.

So I'd like to start dialing it a bit, to see if I can improve my experience.

Things I'd like to improve are:

- Mystery scoop eject strength: can't find the correct setting so that it's properly thrown at the left flipper. Anything above 30 will result into a center drain (or close). Anything at 30 or below and the eject is too soft (but at least I can catch the ball)
- Star Wars ramp: can only make it with the right flipper, backhand does not work. Very narrow opening to register the shot
- Left inner loop: relatively high rate of center drain after this shot. I've seen some comments about a small metal "nub" on the metal ball guide, will look at it
- Flasher strength during Boba Fett escape : I get it it's to increase pressure, but man have they heard of photo induced seizure ? Is there a way to tune it down, besides decreasing flasher brightness
- Increase timer for timed shot

Anything else you would recommend looking at ?

And yes, I know I will not be playing the game as it was intended, but after a few weeks trying to improve I've reached a point where I would much rather enjoy the game than being frustrated, even if this implies changing the ruleset and ball behaviour.

Cheers

Pitch and level, you probably checked them when setting it up. Check em again and dial it in. This is a common thought in this thread and it really worked for me. 6.5 pitch and level the upper and lower playfield, but lower for sure.

I also very very slightly reduce the sensitivity of the sling switches to reduce the cheap drain when trying to control the ball. I actually do that on most of my twitchy games. Games are more fun at home and it doesn’t impact my location play.

My VUK dribbles the ball out, and I stopped adjusting from there because I can control it at current settings.

The loops/orbits are a common problem, start with pitch and level, then look for impact burrs at the end of the guides, finally many on here have made very slight bends to get the ball path they want. I didn’t have to but I absolutely would, especially the left orbit exit, if needed.

My SW Pro was the hardest machine to dial in, but now it plays awesome. I too was ready to quit at one point, but now I love the game. It is still hard, fast and unforgiving at times but I can score and progress now because I have more control.

Don’t give up...a lightsaber duel on 40x multipliers, where you move the multiplier and hit your shot...while the preventing the timer running down, or letting the multipliers expire... is absolutely some of the best pinball out there. Looking up to the billions of points earned is electrifying!

- Mystery scoop eject strength: can't find the correct setting so that it's properly thrown at the left flipper. Anything above 30 will result into a center drain (or close). Anything at 30 or below and the eject is too soft (but at least I can catch the ball)

The scoop eject should hit the left flipper, increasing power is better than decreasing in my opinion. If level it should rarely drain SDTM but if you still have issues you can turn on a short ballsave for "right eject" so cheap drains get a ball return.

- Star Wars ramp: can only make it with the right flipper, backhand does not work. Very narrow opening to register the shot

I've experienced this with Premiums more than Pros, not sure why. The left ramp is the second easiest shot for me from either flipper, if the left flipper isn't strong enough to make it up the ramp is your playfield steeper than 6.5 degrees?

- Left inner loop: relatively high rate of center drain after this shot. I've seen some comments about a small metal "nub" on the metal ball guide, will look at it

My right inner loop (returning out the left side) returns to the left flipper and rarely drains if I try to flip. Letting it dead flip to the right flipper is almost always my best option. I don't have a return SDTM from the left loop exiting out the right side. With both this and your scoop returning further too far to the right, perhaps adjust your level to the left a bit, it sounds like your playfield may be biased to the right.

- Flasher strength during Boba Fett escape : I get it it's to increase pressure, but man have they heard of photo induced seizure ? Is there a way to tune it down, besides decreasing flasher brightness

No idea on this, other than adding PinStadiums or something to even out the lighting. I personally love the contrast and use of no GI in some of the lightshows but it's a totally subjective thing!

- Increase timer for timed shot

Not sure which timed shots you mean, I have no issues with any of the timer lengths though, lots of timers and hurryups in this game!

- Anything else you would recommend looking at ?

NUDGING! Nudge skills make a HUGE difference in this game to me. The outlanes can be either drain monsters or barely even a factor if you nudge well. The best tip I was ever given on nudging is to think of the top of the slings as static flippers to nudge-up every time the ball is heading toward the outlane side of them. I find it easy to keep the ball away from the outlanes most of the time in this game and if it does get past me I can often still nudge or slapsave the ball back to the inlane. You can also lower the outlane posts if you like, you can always move them back to default if your skill starts finding that too easy.

- And yes, I know I will not be playing the game as it was intended, but after a few weeks trying to improve I've reached a point where I would much rather enjoy the game than being frustrated, even if this implies changing the ruleset and ball behaviour.

Forget about "intended" or "cheating". It's your game, set it up for your own skill and preferences, and it's not written in stone as you can adjust it whenever you like. Don't give any thought to somebody else's opinion of how you enjoy your own pin!

Cheers

Thanks for all advices, a few questions

May I have guidance on how to achieve this ?

Well I just seem to not be able to control the ball enough so that I can line up my shots when there's a time element (Speed bike for ex)

Ah indeed. That's definitely my weak point. Are you using mostly nudge-up or lateral as well ? I find lateral incredibly difficult to have any effect. Need to practice a lot this aspect

Lots of good advice here. Couple of things, because I felt the exact same way as you do.

First of all, stick with it-- the game is brutal and fast but also becomes very rewarding. I don't know what to say except that if you just stick with it for a while you will like the game.

Second, as many people have said concerning personally owned pinball games -- it's YOUR game so don't feel bad setting it up for how you want to play. It's designed out of the box to just eat quarters. I highly recommend putting the outlane posts to the easiest setting for a while. And possibly increase the minimum time on min-wizards and tie fighter multiball.

Lastly, pick a strategy and play it for a while. When beginning the game I highly recommend picking Han, and selecting +5 tie fighters until you get tie fighter multiball. Additionally with Han if you go for Hoth first, your first "mode" is the video mode, and the second is the min wizard. When you get past that go after Endor. Once you get really comfortable with a strategy, then moving around to the other characters and strategies opens up the fun and scoring possibilities.

Have fun!

I ordered enough for two sets. In case I dont fuck up parts on assembly I'll happily pass on parts or maybe even an assembled kit to anyone interested, who is from Europe. No guarantees that it will work out tho, becaus eit can happen, that I screws something up and need the spares.

The slings use leaf switches as do many other things. Looking perpendicular to the strips of metal there is a gap between the contacts, when the ball presses the sling rubber against one strip it pushes it into the other strip to make contact. A larger gap reduces the sensitivity (makes it need a harder push to make contact) and a smaller gap increases sensitivity. Be careful to not bend too aggressively, it doesn't take much to slightly change the gap.

You can definitely increase any minimum timer settings you find in the features adjust menu. My own approach is to work to make the shot anyway even if the timer runs out, once I find a shot and get more comfortable/familiar with it I find myself starting to be able to make it before timing out. It's a mindset thing, where I'm making "practice/learning" time a fun journey. If I was an expert already I wouldn't buy the pin, it's the process of going from "totally sucking" to "not too shabby" that I want to enjoy!

Most of my outlane nudging on SW is simple "up" often using both hands equally. Once it became reflex to do that every time the ball is hitting an outlane post it seems I'm able to bounce it out of there at least 4/5 times. I don't have my tilt set very sensitive and often I'm able to even bounce out from between the posts into the inlane when it was otherwise a clear drain. It doesn't take much, I suspect a lot of people underestimate how subtle nudging can be, it's more about timing than shoving the cabinet around. The ball bounces against a post rubber very easily and doesn't require much aggression.

Thanks, that's what I was expecting, but was not sure if Stern hadn't added a "debouncer" in the control electronic. I'll increase the gap (done that already on older machines)

There may be debouncing for some switches, but that's pretty much unrelated to sensitivity for this purpose which is just how much throw (distance) is needed to trip the switch. Most of the switches are mechanically fairly primitive, but this gives them great response time. A fair bit of the magic to dial things in comes down to understanding the mechanics enough to adjust springs and switches.

I like the shots and speed of this game, and the code is deep with lots of ways to do things, stack modes, or focus on specific goals. It doesn't have to be just about points but that's fun too. Managing multipliers and stacking is huge in this code, I enjoy setting a sequence of events as a goal or even just a simple specific goal with a target score.

An idea regarding noise of the 'motor' on the topper. Is this sound maybe found in the game code? In this case it could be replaced by an attenuated version. Thoughts?

I don't have the topper but am curious... does the motor sound happen even when the topper attract sounds are turned off but the motor is enabled? I see the R2D2 motor can be disabled in the menu, which I assume is for the topper and stops it from moving both in attract mode and during a game. I would expect the menu option to disable topper attract sounds to also stop it from making the motor sound even if the motor is enabled but does it work that way?

It's unlikely I'll ever find a topper but I'm interested how it works since I see this topic come up enough to notice.

Up until then last update that was the case. Maybe before hacking the code, i will take another look at the settings in V1.10

Hi All- I was attempting to realign the right scoop so that upon eject the ball would find the left flipper more often and when I tried to tighten the screws, one wouldn’t not tighten down.

I think I’ve read that in these situations you can put a bit of toothpick in the screw hole. Is this the best approach? Or do you have any other proven methods you’d recommend.

Thanks!

I usually have to shove the ends of about 3 toothpicks together into a stripped out screw hole in order to totally fill the hole. I coat the toothpicks in a quality wood glue before I shove them in there. I then let them dry thoroughly, and I use a wire cutter to cut them off as close to the playfield as I can. Then I sand the remaining ends of the toothpicks flat with the bottom of the playfield (this is all done with the object that the screw was securing removed). I then reinstall the object the screw was securing and use the hole in the mounting flange for a template and I reinstall the screw.

This has been my method of restoring stripped holes in the bottom of playfields for the past 15 years that I've been in the hobby, and it's worked great for me.

Thank you!

I just joined the club on Sunday. Picked up a practically new premium. Super thrilled! I've wanted to own this game for a long time. Overall, the game is playing great, but there are a couple of issues that I'm hoping can be easily addressed. The Death Star shot works great. I almost never get any rejects. The problem is that after I select the mode, it drops the ball down the ramp and it goes SDTM. I'm assuming this isn't how it's supposed to behave.

My other issue is with the hyperloop. It is working well, and the ball will successfully be flung around, but it seems like a majority of the time the ball is not properly released to the wireform. Instead, it doesn't make it past the Death Star, and then falls back down onto the playfield. The divertor seems to be working fine, but the ball simply doesn't make it that far.

Are these two issues related, and what can I do to fix them?

Check for magnetized balls for the hyperloop issue. Mine weren't making it all the way around and I found that was the issue. Swapped in new balls and all is good.

These are brand new balls that I just put in the game, so I wouldn't think that they would be magnetized yet, but that's a good point. I thought the balls I put in were carbon steel, but it's possible I put in chrome balls which would be a horrible choice for this game. I'll pop back in the original Stern balls and see if it makes a difference.

I run chrome balls in all of my machines, including Star Wars Premium. I just de-magnetize them when cleaning or doing maintenance. They don't magnetize nearly as fast as many seem to suggest.

Okay, I tried it with a non-chrome ball and I got the exact same result. I put the game in test mode and threw a ball in there. It goes around once or twice and then appears to rattle around right after the Death Star before entering the magnet tunnel. Any ideas? Also, what is the ball supposed to do after you start a mode? On my game it is releasing it and dropping it down the ramp SDTM.

I'd check the height adjustment of the Hyperspace loop where it enters the Death Star. When I took mine apart to change rubbers, I accidentally reversed the orientation of the black bushing, and had the rattling behavior you mentioned. On my machine, the bushing needs to be on top of the mounting flange to keep the wireform as low as possible.

20211221_123125 (resized).jpg

The return wire form entering the DeathStar has to be at the correct height. A millimeter too high or low and the balls will bounce too much upon reentering the magnets and not make it around. You can diagnose it in settings and observe the ball as it enters the magnet tunnel. It should zip right in with a minimum of impact.

Thanks! That's great info. It looks like mine is different than yours with the spacer on the bottom (photo 1). I'm thinking I can probably get rid of that spacer altogether if I want to move the ramp down. I see that there is also a height adjustment right below the Death Star (photo 2). I'm assuming I can use these two points to lower the ramp and perhaps it will eliminate the rattle.

Star Wars 1 (resized).jpg

Star Wars 2 (resized).jpg

I'd try the spacer first, as it is quick and easy. I had the benefit of a working machine before changing rubbers, so I knew it was something in how I put it back together. It sounds like your machine arrived that way.

I got it working perfectly. At first I made the wireform too low. The hyperloop was working fine, but the ball kept getting rejected on the ramp. I raised the wireform a bit, and I seem to have found the sweet spot. The ramp is smooth as butter, and the hyperloop works great. Thanks for all the help, guys!

Calling out @pinworlds please run the lost Star wars mods again, with another run many new customers including myself.

7DF1B288-692F-4699-88A9-E102671E76FC (resized).jpeg

My hyperloop stopped working today. Not registering any balls, just instant drains out of the loop. Has anyone had this issue/figured out a solution?